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Cairo is a fascinating clash between traditional and modern,

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religious and secular, East and West.

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While its chaos can be exasperating,

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it can also be a rewarding challenge for the adventurous traveler.

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Cairo's downtown is modern and can feel European.

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Streets, squares, and grand buildings are reminders of the country's colonial past from the 19th and early 20th centuries.

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The riverfront throbs with energy, stately bridges busy with traffic,

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fancy riverside restaurants,

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and towering apartment complexes.

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The Nile is still the lifeblood of the city, sprawling endlessly on both sides.

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The heart of Cairo is Tahrir Square.

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It's long been ground zero for the people's spirit.

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If there's a demonstration going on,

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and there have been massive ones in recent years,

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it's likely here.

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In addition to its political energy,

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the city's long been a religious capital.

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Ever since the forces of Islam swept across North Africa

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from Arabia, in the 7th century,

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spreading the teachings of their Prophet Muhammad,

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Cairo has been a leading city of the Muslim world.

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And, today, Cairo's known as the City of a Thousand Minarets.

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Stepping into Al-Hussein Mosque, like any neighborhood mosque,

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you'll find a worshipful tranquility.

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It's believed that resting here invigorates the soul.

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There's more intensity around the adjacent shrine,

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believed to contain a sacred relic,

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the head of Al-Husayn ibn Ali,

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a grandson of the prophet Muhammad.

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In a mosque, men and women worship separately.

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As praying can be physical, with lots of bending over,

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it's considered more respectful to allow women their own space.

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I find that a respectful tourist is welcome to be a part of the scene.