1
00:00:14,701 --> 00:00:17,971
When I was about six years old,

2
00:00:17,971 --> 00:00:19,991
we move down here right by PIPE.

3
00:00:19,991 --> 00:00:23,731
Ever since then she's been surfing at sand bar and air kite,

4
00:00:23,731 --> 00:00:26,461
and climbing on the pipe when I was little,

5
00:00:26,461 --> 00:00:29,391
and watching all the guys get big barrels and surfing.

6
00:00:36,619 --> 00:00:38,029
All is been on the beach all day,

7
00:00:38,029 --> 00:00:40,439
we never have like TV or anything else

8
00:00:40,439 --> 00:00:42,909
so we just on the beach all day long.

9
00:00:42,909 --> 00:00:46,179
And I think that is how we can all fall in love with the ocean.

10
00:00:52,532 --> 00:00:56,532
I knew that I always want to do is just surf and live here.

11
00:00:57,077 --> 00:00:59,797
I love this place more than anywhere else in the world.

12
00:00:59,797 --> 00:01:03,549
The way surfing is nothing same as whether the big waves,

13
00:01:03,549 --> 00:01:04,639
or the small waves.

14
00:01:05,947 --> 00:01:07,887
You know skating is just the same round,

15
00:01:07,887 --> 00:01:09,957
and so biking is the same job,

16
00:01:09,957 --> 00:01:12,877
Surfing never using the way take from secret different,

17
00:01:12,877 --> 00:01:15,067
I think that is why it keeps you coming back.

18
00:01:15,067 --> 00:01:18,337
Desire find something new ! I guess!

19
00:01:21,356 --> 00:01:23,296
Really, you just have fun,

20
00:01:23,296 --> 00:01:25,116
and you don't have to take too serious here.

21
00:01:25,376 --> 00:01:27,546
I think that is main product of surfing.

22
00:01:28,599 --> 00:01:31,719
I have always done my best having fun with it.

23
00:01:32,235 --> 00:01:34,403
Anytime I try to get too serious about it,

24
00:01:34,403 --> 00:01:37,513
and try to think too much about it when I can't make things up.

25
00:01:37,513 --> 00:01:41,513
Start to be living surfing that I love.