When I was about six years old,
we move down here right by PIPE.
Ever since then she's been surfing at sand bar and air kite,
and climbing on the pipe when I was little,
and watching all the guys get big barrels and surfing.
All is been on the beach all day,
we never have like TV or anything else
so we just on the beach all day long.
And I think that is how we can all fall in love with the ocean.
I knew that I always want to do is just surf and live here.
I love this place more than anywhere else in the world.
The way surfing is nothing same as whether the big waves,
or the small waves.
You know skating is just the same round,
and so biking is the same job,
Surfing never using the way take from secret different,
I think that is why it keeps you coming back.
Desire find something new ! I guess!
Really, you just have fun,
and you don't have to take too serious here.
I think that is main product of surfing.
I have always done my best having fun with it.
Anytime I try to get too serious about it,
and try to think too much about it when I can't make things up.
Start to be living surfing that I love.