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When I was about six years old,

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we move down here right by PIPE.

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Ever since then she's been surfing at sand bar and air kite,

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and climbing on the pipe when I was little,

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and watching all the guys get big barrels and surfing.

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All is been on the beach all day,

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we never have like TV or anything else

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so we just on the beach all day long.

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And I think that is how we can all fall in love with the ocean.

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I knew that I always want to do is just surf and live here.

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I love this place more than anywhere else in the world.

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The way surfing is nothing same as whether the big waves,

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or the small waves.

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You know skating is just the same round,

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and so biking is the same job,

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Surfing never using the way take from secret different,

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I think that is why it keeps you coming back.

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Desire find something new ! I guess!

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Really, you just have fun,

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and you don't have to take too serious here.

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I think that is main product of surfing.

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I have always done my best having fun with it.

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Anytime I try to get too serious about it,

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and try to think too much about it when I can't make things up.

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Start to be living surfing that I love.