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Hello! How are you?

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Let's start another Tanda Color[br]analysis flowchart study.

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This flow chart now is about the top[br]valve, the control valve, or deareration valve,

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or still, pressurizing and[br]sterilization valve. This is the valve

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that we will think about now.[br]The top valve.

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What are the procedures and the guide[br]that you should follow to quickly

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understand if there's an electric issue,[br]or if the valve is damaged. Ok?

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First, just to remind you how it works, and[br]how is its electrical diagramming.

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We will have a 20V tension, that comes[br]from the converter, here, 20VAC...

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It goes through a relay... that will be[br]driven by an electrical driver,

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and this relay will be connected to a[br]phase, and the valve will be linked to the

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20V one. And this valve has 24VCA.[br]And we can't forget this.

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So, the electronic will be triggered by[br]a relay, which will be on the board.

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We have already studied this relay, and[br]how they work.

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And here, we have our 24V valve.[br]So, this is the circuit that we are studying.

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Now, the first step is to turn on the[br]equipment, plugging it to 220V,

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and turn on the valve. Then put the water[br]into the chamber. Then you will press start.

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This valve will open automatically[br]at the moment that you trigger the

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master switch. You don't necessarily have[br]to start a cycle. But it's better to do so.

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Put water into the chamber, close the door,[br]everything good, and then press start.

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When you press start, what do you have to[br]do? You have to measure if there is tension

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at the valve or not. And the top valve wires[br]are this two here that you can see.

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This 2 brown wires are from[br]the top valve.

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And this 2 are from the valve below.

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And this 2 green wires are the converter[br]supply, ok?

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This is only to remind you about this matter[br]that we have already studied before.

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Well, the question is: when you try to[br]measure the tension with the

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multimeter over here... And reminding[br]you that you need to set it to AC...

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Is there a 22V tension here? Or about 22V?[br]If the answer is yes, it means that the

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board is doing its job. And all[br]the circuit here is working fine.

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So, the valve has to trigger. If it [br]doesn't, then you will have to check the

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valve coil. Just as we have already [br]studied, at the valve subject.

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I even told you about the ESR that you[br]should measure.

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This coil's ESR equals to 7,5Ω, in[br]case you want to check with your

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multimeter, using the gauge set[br]to resistance.

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Alright. Is there a tension supplying the[br]valve? Yes. Then why won't it trigger?

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Check the valve. For this purpose we have[br]our classes about the valve, which

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covers all kinds of measurements that[br]you could do.

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Well, but let's suppose that we didn't[br]find 22V there.

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The next step is to ask if the converter[br]is supplying the board with 22V.

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There is a possibility that there isn't[br]a 22V output from the converter.

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Maybe there could be something [br]wrong with the winding, for example.

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So, you need to be certain that the 22V[br]tension is actually reaching the board.

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This is the question now. Is it, or is it [br]not reaching?

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Let's suppose that it isn't.

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Just to let you know, we're here already, ok?[br]'Cause this part is the same

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As this one.

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Well, what happens then... Is the 20V[br]reaching? No, it isn't. This means you will

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have to check the converter. Why wouldn't[br]the converter release the tension?

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Why isn't there the 22V output [br]or the average of 20V to the green wires

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in order to supply the coil?

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This means that the converter is damaged.

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Now, if the answer is yes, the converter[br]shows a tension of 22V, or about 20V?

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Ok, then. As you can see here, this is the[br]supplying value, which is around 22V.

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Alright. Everything looks good. We see[br]the tension here but it's not supplying

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the valve. This way, we can change the [br]valve. 'Cause, in fact, it's damaged.

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Sorry, I mean, not the valve. We are gonna[br]change the board! Once it's not supplying

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the coil. In this case the issue is the[br]board.

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Well, if there is 22V here at the connector,[br]the valve may be damaged.

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If there isn't, it could be the converter.

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When you test it, and it's not the converter,[br]then it's the board.

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This means that there are 3 possibilities[br]here:

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The coil; the converter; or the board.

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And remember that we also got the indicator[br]LEDs. Those that I have already talked

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about here. The little LEDs that will[br]warn you about the valve, or about the

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relay that triggers the valve... We have a[br]class about it.

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Then, if you look at the LED, and it's[br]on, there's a big chance that the electronics

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are fine here. Then you measure here. Did[br]you find any tension?

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Yes. Then the valve is damaged.[br]No. So, if the LED is on, and there is

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no tension here, then check the converter,[br]or the board. Ok?

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Very easy, right?

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Reminding you that when I measured it[br]using my LCR meter, the valve equals to 15Ω.

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But if you use your multimeter, that has[br]a different frequency, the valve's inductance

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equals to 40mH. And the ESR, using the[br]digital multimeter, equals to 7,5Ω.

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If you want to measure the resistance, [br]the ESR, you can do it directly, with the

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equipment just turned off, and your multimeter[br]set to resistance gauge, and test it here,

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you will find 7,5Ω that is the equivalent[br]resistance of this valve. Ok?

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Really simple test, very quickly you will[br]be able to do this, and it will surely work,

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and you will be able to know if the power[br]supply is damaged, or the coil, or the

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board, or the converter. Any of those 3[br]could be responsible for not triggering

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the top valve.

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Ok? Follow this guide, think about it.

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Until next time!