0:00:01.550,0:00:04.656 Foodie culture is obsessed[br]with authenticity. 0:00:04.656,0:00:06.738 But when we get Moroccan honey, 0:00:06.738,0:00:08.360 San Marzano tomatoes, 0:00:08.360,0:00:10.076 that means shipping food, 0:00:10.076,0:00:11.152 carbon emissions, 0:00:11.152,0:00:12.410 plenty of waste, 0:00:12.410,0:00:14.089 and excess packaging 0:00:14.089,0:00:17.639 for food that, sometimes, [br]not even as fresh or as delicious. 0:00:17.639,0:00:21.009 Adding COVID-19,[br]and you have a whole new problem: 0:00:21.009,0:00:22.391 frozen supply chains 0:00:22.391,0:00:24.348 or closed borders. 0:00:24.348,0:00:28.085 That's changing how we eat and[br]forcing us to also look at what's local. 0:00:28.085,0:00:31.079 Some countries, like Russia,[br]have a lot of experience with this. 0:00:32.165,0:00:34.458 MADE IN RUSSIA 0:00:36.285,0:00:39.191 (Alec) Jay Klouz has been[br]a nightclub promoter in Spain, 0:00:39.191,0:00:41.075 a tour boat owner in France, 0:00:41.075,0:00:43.239 and a celebrity chef in Australia. 0:00:44.144,0:00:46.269 Now, the American lives in Russia 0:00:46.269,0:00:48.365 where he's added cheesemaker to the list. 0:00:49.054,0:00:52.082 (Klouz) Every person has a different hand, 0:00:52.082,0:00:54.050 and this hand makes cheese. 0:00:54.050,0:00:55.546 You could be more aggressive, 0:00:55.546,0:00:57.103 and you'll have another cheese. 0:00:57.103,0:00:58.274 You could be more careful, 0:00:58.274,0:00:59.664 and you'll have another cheese. 0:00:59.664,0:01:02.245 You can even be half a degree higher, 0:01:02.245,0:01:04.166 and you'll have another cheese. 0:01:04.166,0:01:07.208 (Alec) Klouz uses local ingredients [br]to make European favorites 0:01:07.208,0:01:09.718 like feta, Gouda, and ricotta. 0:01:09.718,0:01:13.805 Flavors that began to make their way here [br]after the fall of the Soviet Union. 0:01:16.366,0:01:19.320 (Alec) So, I grew up in Wisconsin, 0:01:19.320,0:01:24.130 and we've always had cheddar, [br]pepper jack, all sorts of-- 0:01:24.130,0:01:26.190 you know, real sharp cheeses. 0:01:26.190,0:01:27.048 Love this stuff. 0:01:27.048,0:01:28.571 And then I came to Russia, 0:01:28.571,0:01:32.325 and it was like, cheese was white [br]and didn't taste like anything. 0:01:32.325,0:01:33.880 Tastes like plastic. 0:01:34.208,0:01:36.711 What made you decide to start[br]making your own cheese? 0:01:36.711,0:01:40.126 You know, one thing you learn in Russia,[br]the winters are rough. 0:01:40.126,0:01:42.190 The Russians prepare for winter 0:01:42.190,0:01:46.122 so, being prepared means, [br]also eating good stuff. 0:01:48.570,0:01:51.809 (Alec) For years, Russia imported [br]as much cheese as it produced 0:01:51.809,0:01:54.217 until 2014. 0:01:56.067,0:01:57.920 Russia annexed Crimea. 0:01:58.206,0:02:01.842 The US and the EU[br]slap sanctions on Russia, 0:02:01.842,0:02:05.827 and President Putin responded by[br]banning food imports from those countries. 0:02:07.451,0:02:10.965 Cheesemakers like Klouz [br]saw sales go way up. 0:02:10.965,0:02:13.901 Russian production[br]increased by at least 50%. 0:02:14.301,0:02:16.489 (Klouz) Please don't forget[br]to return my spoon. 0:02:16.489,0:02:18.308 (Sofia) Yes, return the spoon. Thanks. 0:02:19.249,0:02:24.991 After Russia stopped purchasing[br]cheeses abroad, 0:02:24.991,0:02:28.280 the cheese market changed a lot. 0:02:28.843,0:02:30.277 So we started buying here. 0:02:30.277,0:02:35.564 We are very satisfied[br]with the price and quality. 0:02:36.906,0:02:39.861 (Alec) And how have the current sanctions[br]changed the industry? 0:02:39.861,0:02:43.817 (Klouz) With the sanctions there's [br]more interest in the people making cheese. 0:02:43.817,0:02:46.142 Like, "Oh, we don't need you, [br]we have Jay." 0:02:46.142,0:02:47.341 I'm like, "Yeah, right." 0:02:47.341,0:02:49.793 Fifty kilos a day,[br]how am I going to feed Russians? 0:02:51.149,0:02:52.369 "Jay will save us!" 0:02:52.369,0:02:54.936 I'm like, what? [br](laughter) 0:02:54.936,0:02:56.326 People are funny here. 0:02:59.408,0:03:03.139 (Alec) But some people are more confident[br]in local producers' ability 0:03:03.139,0:03:06.657 to fill the giant cheesy hole[br]left by the counter sanctions. 0:03:09.837,0:03:13.243 Klrill Sharshukov imported Italian cheese 0:03:13.243,0:03:16.562 until the food embargo forced him[br]to start making his own. 0:03:17.173,0:03:20.832 (Sharshuko) Here we have[br]Caciocavallo cheese. 0:03:20.832,0:03:23.032 A classic Italian Caciocavallo cheese. 0:03:23.032,0:03:29.889 It is fermented for about 6 to 12 months 0:03:29.889,0:03:33.362 and has a specific, light taste. 0:03:33.802,0:03:37.545 And here we added fenugreek seeds. 0:03:40.553,0:03:44.052 Tastes like cheese with with walnut, 0:03:44.052,0:03:47.511 kind of a sweet dessert-y crunch. 0:03:50.505,0:03:53.082 It doesn't have nuts? 0:03:53.082,0:03:58.101 No, no. This doesn't have any nuts,[br]but is has that flavor. 0:03:58.101,0:04:02.272 I don't know if this is allowed on TV, 0:04:02.272,0:04:04.665 but these seeds are[br]healthy for men, apparently. 0:04:06.001,0:04:10.502 So this is delicious and healthy for me?[br](laughter) 0:04:11.643,0:04:12.975 (Alec) After the embargo, 0:04:12.975,0:04:15.957 the government started giving[br]out subsidies and tax breaks 0:04:15.957,0:04:17.515 to boost domestic production. 0:04:18.329,0:04:19.944 Something Sharshuko believes 0:04:19.944,0:04:23.166 is giving Russians a chance to catch up[br]to the world's cheesemakers. 0:04:24.047,0:04:26.983 (Sharshuko) The longer this goes on,[br]the more experiences we have. 0:04:26.983,0:04:30.779 We reproduce Italy's cheeses here, 0:04:30.779,0:04:35.266 replace its classic cheeses,[br]and produce them. 0:04:35.266,0:04:38.825 So it would be very difficult to return. 0:04:39.493,0:04:42.787 (Alec) But the Russian cheese revolution [br]isn't for everybody. 0:04:42.787,0:04:46.514 Imported foods were always[br]too expensive for most Russians. 0:04:46.514,0:04:50.837 Meaning locally-made burrata will probably[br]never be on their shopping list. 0:04:51.782,0:04:53.139 And economists are skeptical 0:04:53.139,0:04:55.619 that the people [br]who could afford fancy cheese 0:04:55.619,0:04:57.293 are going to see local versions 0:04:57.293,0:05:00.371 as anything other than[br]a secondary substitute. 0:05:00.371,0:05:03.954 When we imported cheese, it had quality. 0:05:03.954,0:05:08.163 We, the small portion of affluent people,[br]got used to it. 0:05:08.163,0:05:10.166 When that cheese disappeared, 0:05:10.166,0:05:17.223 those people stopped buying[br]Russian copies of cheese 0:05:17.374,0:05:19.347 because they don't trust the quality. 0:05:19.574,0:05:23.571 Well, I hear from the cheese producers-- 0:05:24.031,0:05:25.799 Russian cheese producers-- 0:05:25.919,0:05:28.419 who say sanctions have been a huge help. 0:05:28.702,0:05:33.574 Those you spoke to are very few[br]because, as a matter of fact, 0:05:33.574,0:05:36.874 90% of the Russian cheese market 0:05:37.047,0:05:39.332 is mass market cheeses. 0:05:39.501,0:05:41.524 I wanted to ask what will happen 0:05:41.524,0:05:47.222 to Russian cheesemakers[br]if sanctions are lifted tomorrow? 0:05:47.722,0:05:51.754 There will be[br]competition again for 15 to 20% 0:05:51.754,0:05:55.472 of wealthy people in Russia. 0:05:55.845,0:06:01.343 People who have invested[br]in cheese production 0:06:01.746,0:06:03.803 will be hit hard. 0:06:04.978,0:06:08.032 (Alec) The drive for food Independence[br]has protected Russia 0:06:08.032,0:06:11.412 from supply disruptions during [br]the pandemic, the government says. 0:06:12.933,0:06:16.218 It's also helped a fledgling,[br]farm-to-table movement here. 0:06:17.578,0:06:19.732 - Five more minutes.[br]- No, two and a half. 0:06:20.649,0:06:24.857 (Alec) Ivan and Sergey Berezutskly have[br]their own farm to produce ingredients 0:06:24.857,0:06:26.069 for their restaurant, 0:06:26.069,0:06:30.031 which in 2019 was named [br]one of the best in the world. 0:06:30.251,0:06:34.887 It's a simple dish: potato with caviar. 0:06:35.751,0:06:37.155 Here you are. 0:06:38.405,0:06:45.935 The majority of our guests[br]need healthy and fresh food. 0:06:45.935,0:06:51.542 This is a development Russia[br]and other countries have come to. 0:06:51.542,0:06:54.007 The sanctions have[br]accelerated the process.