0:00:00.185,0:00:01.583 We all love to shop 0:00:01.626,0:00:03.768 and these days the new styles in clothes 0:00:03.768,0:00:05.165 are cheaper than ever. 0:00:05.467,0:00:07.546 You can literally snag a dress [br]for 4 bucks, 0:00:07.659,0:00:09.950 which is basically the price[br]of a vanilla latte. 0:00:10.330,0:00:13.105 But buying cheap comes at a high cost. 0:00:13.343,0:00:15.115 And I know, I know, I hear you.[br]You're like 0:00:15.115,0:00:16.854 "Whembley, what does that [br]actually mean?" 0:00:16.854,0:00:18.653 And that basically means that 0:00:18.653,0:00:21.317 fast fashion just works on exploitative [br]labor conditions 0:00:21.317,0:00:23.150 and it's destroying the environment. 0:00:23.400,0:00:25.075 Over the last two centuries 0:00:25.075,0:00:26.344 as the world has changed 0:00:26.344,0:00:29.178 our relationship with clothes has [br]dramatically changed too. 0:00:29.258,0:00:31.120 From an era where clothing was bespoke 0:00:31.322,0:00:33.117 or tailor-made for each individual 0:00:33.117,0:00:34.386 to the ready-to-wear era 0:00:34.386,0:00:36.785 where pre-made clothing came in [br]standardized sizing 0:00:36.825,0:00:38.949 and the current era of fast fashion. 0:00:39.198,0:00:41.088 The fashion industry, today, 0:00:41.088,0:00:42.813 looks nothing like it did in the past. 0:00:42.858,0:00:45.089 And, of course, not all change is good. 0:00:45.407,0:00:46.845 An obscene amount of clothes, 0:00:47.022,0:00:49.272 stealing independent designers' ideas 0:00:49.503,0:00:52.698 low wages, unsafe conditions and [br]harassment, 0:00:52.966,0:00:56.128 factory works sewing pleas to help in [br]their clothing. 0:00:56.548,0:00:57.572 Yikes. 0:00:57.644,0:00:59.401 But before we get into all of that 0:00:59.401,0:01:01.144 what exactly is fast fashion? 0:01:01.360,0:01:03.841 You're right if you think it sounds[br]like fast food 0:01:03.841,0:01:06.951 It's cheap, quick and of [br]questinable quality. 0:01:06.989,0:01:08.382 Back to the topic at hand 0:01:08.382,0:01:11.430 If fast fashion isn't bespoken, isn't ready-to-wear, 0:01:11.430,0:01:12.928 then, what is it? 0:01:13.005,0:01:14.119 To answer that question 0:01:14.119,0:01:15.917 we need to travel to a small village 0:01:15.917,0:01:17.779 in Galicia, Spain, of La Coruna. 0:01:17.996,0:01:21.543 In 1963, a man named [br]Amancio Ortega Gaona 0:01:21.543,0:01:23.439 launched a company which would go on 0:01:23.439,0:01:25.888 to become the biggest fashion retailer [br]on Earth. 0:01:26.173,0:01:28.704 That company is now known as[br]Zara Inditex. 0:01:28.922,0:01:31.983 You may have recognized its most [br]famous holding, Zara. 0:01:32.104,0:01:35.047 Ortega's Zara pioneered the fast [br]fashion model 0:01:35.297,0:01:36.644 There are four major points: 0:01:36.894,0:01:38.559 First, vertical integration 0:01:38.776,0:01:40.623 That's just a fancy way of saying 0:01:40.623,0:01:42.224 the company does it all in-house 0:01:42.420,0:01:44.787 from design and manufacturing, 0:01:44.787,0:01:46.102 and selling clothes. 0:01:46.102,0:01:47.649 This helps streamline cost 0:01:47.649,0:01:49.314 and optimize production processes. 0:01:49.532,0:01:51.529 Fast fashion is all about feedback. 0:01:51.529,0:01:53.265 Designers receive data on what sells 0:01:53.265,0:01:55.636 and what doesn't, as often as daily. 0:01:55.876,0:01:58.316 They often conduct field research[br]on what's trending 0:01:58.316,0:02:00.423 and it's pretty much by just going out[br]and seeing 0:02:00.423,0:02:01.862 what people are wearing on the street 0:02:01.862,0:02:04.203 onto speedier design-to-retail cycle. 0:02:04.402,0:02:07.119 In fast fashion, the emphasis is on fast 0:02:07.334,0:02:09.769 the time it takes to make clothing is now 0:02:09.769,0:02:11.332 a fraction of what it once was. 0:02:11.650,0:02:13.809 For Zara, which leads the industry, 0:02:13.809,0:02:15.331 it just takes five weeks 0:02:15.475,0:02:17.639 instead of fixed seasonal collections. 0:02:17.639,0:02:20.371 Fast fashion outlets generate [br]the lion's share of profits 0:02:20.371,0:02:22.985 through designs produced in season. 0:02:22.985,0:02:25.185 Ready-to-wear collections are made [br]and debuted 0:02:25.185,0:02:26.660 one full season ahead of time. 0:02:26.765,0:02:29.470 FInally, fast fashion is dependent [br]on cheap labor 0:02:29.559,0:02:31.935 and those savings are passed on [br]to the customer. 0:02:32.153,0:02:34.082 Fashion has always run on people power 0:02:34.082,0:02:35.433 more than anything else. 0:02:35.566,0:02:38.030 Currently, one in six humans on earth 0:02:38.030,0:02:39.433 works in the fashion industry 0:02:39.433,0:02:40.466 It's massive! 0:02:40.466,0:02:41.470 And for the most part 0:02:41.470,0:02:43.525 those humans live in [br]developing countries. 0:02:43.593,0:02:46.056 But cheap labor comes at a high cost. 0:02:46.254,0:02:48.386 With globalization, the world's economies 0:02:48.386,0:02:50.004 became increasingly late. 0:02:50.267,0:02:52.132 The promise of fast fashion was 0:02:52.182,0:02:54.066 trendy clothes at a low cost. 0:02:54.119,0:02:55.744 Therefore, "democratizing fashion" 0:02:55.797,0:02:57.805 in the words of Amancio Ortega. 0:02:57.805,0:03:01.314 At the same time, companies like[br]Forever21 and H&M would 0:03:01.314,0:03:03.500 provide jobs for workers in [br]the developing world 0:03:03.734,0:03:05.535 It didn't work out exactly like that. 0:03:05.718,0:03:07.879 Fast fashion companies have come [br]under fire 0:03:07.879,0:03:08.949 for exploiting workers 0:03:09.132,0:03:11.662 This has meant everything from child labor 0:03:11.662,0:03:13.916 to forcing workers to handle[br]dangerous chemicals 0:03:13.916,0:03:17.255 and being grossly underpaid for [br]long hours without a break. 0:03:17.488,0:03:19.604 In 2013, a preventable structural failing 0:03:19.604,0:03:21.668 caused a building in Bangladesh [br]to collapse 0:03:21.918,0:03:24.683 More than 1,100 garment workers [br]were trapped inside 0:03:24.914,0:03:26.977 and injuring more than 2,500. 0:03:27.112,0:03:29.401 The Rana Plaza disaster was the deadliest 0:03:29.401,0:03:31.237 garment factory accident in history. 0:03:31.724,0:03:33.704 And while we now spend less than 0:03:33.704,0:03:36.091 3% of our annual income on clothing 0:03:36.091,0:03:38.381 compared to about 10% in the 50s, 0:03:38.521,0:03:40.508 we have an absurd amount of clothing 0:03:40.508,0:03:42.096 because fast fashion means that 0:03:42.096,0:03:43.317 clothing is disposible. 0:03:43.327,0:03:45.536 Fashion is also terrible [br]for the environment. 0:03:45.625,0:03:47.960 Long story short, more clothes made 0:03:47.960,0:03:50.458 much more quickly, for [br]a fraction of the cost. 0:03:50.612,0:03:52.542 Means a glut of cheap clothing 0:03:52.542,0:03:53.960 piling up in our landfills. 0:03:54.040,0:03:56.247 To get a sense of the sheer [br]volume of clothing 0:03:56.247,0:03:57.637 we are talking about here, 0:03:57.637,0:03:59.882 let's do a quick rundown a fast fashion's 0:03:59.882,0:04:02.170 environmental impact by the numbers. 0:04:02.230,0:04:03.574 150 billion, 0:04:03.574,0:04:06.113 the number of new garments produced [br]each year. 0:04:06.314,0:04:09.610 That's more than 20 garments per person[br]on Earth. 0:04:09.809,0:04:10.925 2.5 billion, 0:04:11.124,0:04:13.168 the number of pounds of fabric waste 0:04:13.168,0:04:15.010 removed from the waste stream, 0:04:15.010,0:04:17.184 according to the Council for[br]Textile Recycling 0:04:17.403,0:04:19.265 60, the percent by which 0:04:19.265,0:04:20.854 the amount of clothing we own 0:04:20.854,0:04:23.897 has increased between 2000 to 2014 0:04:23.897,0:04:25.104 according to Greenpeace. 0:04:25.104,0:04:27.609 But we keep clothes for half as long as 0:04:27.609,0:04:29.509 we did just 15 years ago 0:04:29.509,0:04:31.871 leading to a massive amount of waste. 0:04:31.935,0:04:35.197 10, the percent of the global [br]carbon footprint the 0:04:35.197,0:04:37.033 fashion industry is responsible for. 0:04:37.033,0:04:40.097 There is no question that fashion [br]is contributing to the 0:04:40.097,0:04:41.424 effects of climate change. 0:04:41.424,0:04:43.288 While clothing is recyclable 0:04:43.288,0:04:45.067 the amount of clothing produced 0:04:45.067,0:04:48.038 has far outstripped our capacity [br]to recycle it. 0:04:48.109,0:04:50.392 It's gotten so bad that in April, 0:04:50.392,0:04:54.134 China, which was previously a top [br]destination for recycled textiles, 0:04:54.330,0:04:56.234 has officially banned them. 0:04:56.264,0:04:58.417 And in North America, the city [br]of Markham, 0:04:58.417,0:04:59.792 Ontario, in Canada, 0:04:59.792,0:05:01.834 is the first municipality to ban 0:05:01.834,0:05:03.363 textile waste from landfills. 0:05:03.474,0:05:05.754 But wait, it gets even worse! 0:05:06.165,0:05:08.664 Fashion is the second biggest polluter of 0:05:08.754,0:05:10.495 clean water on the planet. 0:05:10.495,0:05:13.085 Toxic chemicals used to dye [br]and treat clothing have 0:05:13.085,0:05:14.543 been linked to miscarriages, 0:05:14.543,0:05:16.357 birth defects and cancer. 0:05:16.717,0:05:18.384 You have to ask yourself: 0:05:18.404,0:05:19.771 Is it worth it?