We all love to shop and these days the new styles in clothes are cheaper than ever. You can literally snag a dress for 4 bucks, which is basically the price of a vanilla latte. But buying cheap comes at a high cost. And I know, I know, I hear you. You're like "Whembley, what does that actually mean?" And that basically means that fast fashion just works on exploitative labor conditions and it's destroying the environment. Over the last two centuries as the world has changed our relationship with clothes has dramatically changed too. From an era where clothing was bespoke or tailor-made for each individual to the ready-to-wear era where pre-made clothing came in standardized sizing and the current era of fast fashion. The fashion industry, today, looks nothing like it did in the past. And, of course, not all change is good. An obscene amount of clothes, stealing independent designers' ideas low wages, unsafe conditions and harassment, factory works sewing pleas to help in their clothing. Yikes. But before we get into all of that what exactly is fast fashion? You're right if you think it sounds like fast food It's cheap, quick and of questinable quality. Back to the topic at hand If fast fashion isn't bespoken, isn't ready-to-wear then, what is it? to answer that question we need to travel to a small village in Galicia, Spain, of La Coruna. In 1963, a man named Amancio Ortega Gaona launched a company which would go on to become the biggest fashion retailer on Earth. That company is now known as Zara Inditex. You may have recognized its most famous holding, Zara. Ortega's Zara pioneered the fast fashion model There are four major points: First, vertical integration That's just a fancy way of saying the company does it all in-house from design and manufacturing, and selling clothes this helps streamline cost and optimize production processes. Fast fashion is all about feedback designers receive data on what sells and what doesn't, as often as daily. They often conduct field research on what's trending and it's pretty much by just going out and seeing what people are wearing on the street. Onto speedier design-to-retail cycle In fast fashion the emphasis is on fast the time it takes to make clothing is now a fraction of what it once was. For Zara, which leads the industry, it just takes five weeks instead of fixed seasonal collections fast fashion outlets generate the lion's share of profits through designs produced in season. Ready-to-wear collections are made and debuted one full season ahead of time FInally, fast fashion is dependent on cheap labor and those savings are passed on to the customer. Fashion has always run on people power more than anything else. Currently, one in six humans on earth works in the fashion industry It's massive! And for the most part those humans live in developing countries. But cheap labor comes at a high cost. With globalization, the world's economies became increasingly late. The promise of fast fashion was trendy clothes at a low cost. Therefore, "democratizing fashion" in the words of Amancio Ortega. At the same time, companies like Forever21 and H&M would provide jobs for workers in the developing world It didn't work out exactly like that. Fast fashion companies have come under fire for exploiting workers This has meant everything from child labor to forcing workers to handle dangerous chemicals and being grossly underpaid for long hours without a break. In 2013, a preventable structural failing caused a building in Bangladesh to collapse More than 1,100 garment workers were trapped inside and injuring more than 2,500. The Rana Plaza disaster was the deadliest garment factory accident in history. And while we now spend less than 3% of our annual income on clothing, compared to about 10% in the 50s, we have an absurd amount of clothing because fast fashion means that clothing is disposible. Fashion is also terrible for the environment Long story short, more clothes made much more quickly, for a fraction of the cost, means a glut of cheap clothing piling up in our landfills. To get a sense of the sheer volume of clothing we are talking about here Let's do a quick rundown a fast fashion's environmental impact by the numbers 150 billion, the number of new garments produced each year That's more than 20 garments per person on Earth. 2.5 billion, the number of pounds of fabric waste removed from the waste stream, according to the Council for Textile Recycling 60, the percent by which the amount of clothing we own has increased between 2000 to 2014, according to Greenpeace. But we keep clothes for half as long as we did just 15 years ago leading to a massive amount of waste. 10, the percent of the global carbon footprint the fashion industry is responsible for. There is no question that fashion is contributing to the effects of climate change. While clothing is recyclable the amount of clothing produced has far outstripped our capacity to recycle it. It's gotten so bad that in April, China, which was previously a top destination for recycled textiles has officially banned them And in North America, the city of Markham, Ontario, in Canada, is the first municipality to ban textile waste from landfills But wait, it gets even worse! Fashion is the second biggest polluter of clean water on the planet. Toxic chemicals used to dye and treat clothing have been linked to miscarriages, birth defects and cancer. You have to ask yourself: Is it worth it?