[Script Info] Title: [Events] Format: Layer, Start, End, Style, Name, MarginL, MarginR, MarginV, Effect, Text Dialogue: 0,0:00:00.18,0:00:01.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We all love to shop Dialogue: 0,0:00:01.63,0:00:03.77,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and these days the new styles in clothes Dialogue: 0,0:00:03.77,0:00:05.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are cheaper than ever. Dialogue: 0,0:00:05.47,0:00:07.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You can literally snag a dress \Nfor 4 bucks, Dialogue: 0,0:00:07.66,0:00:09.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which is basically the price\Nof a vanilla latte. Dialogue: 0,0:00:10.33,0:00:13.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But buying cheap comes at a high cost. Dialogue: 0,0:00:13.34,0:00:15.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And I know, I know, I hear you.\NYou're like Dialogue: 0,0:00:15.12,0:00:16.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,"Whembley, what does that \Nactually mean?" Dialogue: 0,0:00:16.85,0:00:18.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that basically means that Dialogue: 0,0:00:18.65,0:00:21.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fast fashion just works on exploitative \Nlabor conditions Dialogue: 0,0:00:21.32,0:00:23.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and it's destroying the environment. Dialogue: 0,0:00:23.40,0:00:25.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Over the last two centuries Dialogue: 0,0:00:25.08,0:00:26.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as the world has changed Dialogue: 0,0:00:26.34,0:00:29.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,our relationship with clothes has \Ndramatically changed too. Dialogue: 0,0:00:29.26,0:00:31.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,From an era where clothing was bespoke Dialogue: 0,0:00:31.32,0:00:33.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or tailor-made for each individual Dialogue: 0,0:00:33.12,0:00:34.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to the ready-to-wear era Dialogue: 0,0:00:34.39,0:00:36.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where pre-made clothing came in \Nstandardized sizing Dialogue: 0,0:00:36.82,0:00:38.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the current era of fast fashion. Dialogue: 0,0:00:39.20,0:00:41.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The fashion industry, today, Dialogue: 0,0:00:41.09,0:00:42.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,looks nothing like it did in the past. Dialogue: 0,0:00:42.86,0:00:45.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And, of course, not all change is good. Dialogue: 0,0:00:45.41,0:00:46.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,An obscene amount of clothes, Dialogue: 0,0:00:47.02,0:00:49.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stealing independent designers' ideas Dialogue: 0,0:00:49.50,0:00:52.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,low wages, unsafe conditions and \Nharassment, Dialogue: 0,0:00:52.97,0:00:56.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,factory works sewing pleas to help in \Ntheir clothing. Dialogue: 0,0:00:56.55,0:00:57.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Yikes. Dialogue: 0,0:00:57.64,0:00:59.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But before we get into all of that Dialogue: 0,0:00:59.40,0:01:01.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what exactly is fast fashion? Dialogue: 0,0:01:01.36,0:01:03.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You're right if you think it sounds\Nlike fast food Dialogue: 0,0:01:03.84,0:01:06.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's cheap, quick and of \Nquestinable quality. Dialogue: 0,0:01:06.99,0:01:08.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Back to the topic at hand Dialogue: 0,0:01:08.38,0:01:11.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If fast fashion isn't bespoken, isn't ready-to-wear Dialogue: 0,0:01:11.43,0:01:12.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,then, what is it? Dialogue: 0,0:01:13.00,0:01:14.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to answer that question Dialogue: 0,0:01:14.12,0:01:15.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we need to travel to a small village Dialogue: 0,0:01:15.92,0:01:17.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in Galicia, Spain, of La Coruna. Dialogue: 0,0:01:17.100,0:01:21.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In 1963, a man named \NAmancio Ortega Gaona Dialogue: 0,0:01:21.54,0:01:23.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,launched a company which would go on Dialogue: 0,0:01:23.44,0:01:25.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to become the biggest fashion retailer \Non Earth. Dialogue: 0,0:01:26.17,0:01:28.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That company is now known as\NZara Inditex. Dialogue: 0,0:01:28.92,0:01:31.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You may have recognized its most \Nfamous holding, Zara. Dialogue: 0,0:01:32.10,0:01:35.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Ortega's Zara pioneered the fast \Nfashion model Dialogue: 0,0:01:35.30,0:01:36.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There are four major points: Dialogue: 0,0:01:36.89,0:01:38.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,First, vertical integration Dialogue: 0,0:01:38.78,0:01:40.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That's just a fancy way of saying Dialogue: 0,0:01:40.62,0:01:42.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the company does it all in-house Dialogue: 0,0:01:42.42,0:01:44.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from design and manufacturing, Dialogue: 0,0:01:44.79,0:01:46.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and selling clothes Dialogue: 0,0:01:46.10,0:01:47.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this helps streamline cost Dialogue: 0,0:01:47.65,0:01:49.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and optimize production processes. Dialogue: 0,0:01:49.53,0:01:51.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Fast fashion is all about feedback Dialogue: 0,0:01:51.53,0:01:53.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,designers receive data on what sells Dialogue: 0,0:01:53.26,0:01:55.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and what doesn't, as often as daily. Dialogue: 0,0:01:55.88,0:01:58.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,They often conduct field research\Non what's trending Dialogue: 0,0:01:58.32,0:02:00.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and it's pretty much by just going out\Nand seeing Dialogue: 0,0:02:00.42,0:02:01.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what people are wearing on the street. Dialogue: 0,0:02:01.86,0:02:04.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Onto speedier design-to-retail cycle Dialogue: 0,0:02:04.40,0:02:07.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In fast fashion the emphasis is on fast Dialogue: 0,0:02:07.33,0:02:09.77,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the time it takes to make clothing is now Dialogue: 0,0:02:09.77,0:02:11.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a fraction of what it once was. Dialogue: 0,0:02:11.65,0:02:13.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,For Zara, which leads the industry, Dialogue: 0,0:02:13.81,0:02:15.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it just takes five weeks Dialogue: 0,0:02:15.48,0:02:17.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,instead of fixed seasonal collections Dialogue: 0,0:02:17.64,0:02:20.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fast fashion outlets generate \Nthe lion's share of profits Dialogue: 0,0:02:20.37,0:02:22.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,through designs produced in season. Dialogue: 0,0:02:22.98,0:02:25.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Ready-to-wear collections are made \Nand debuted Dialogue: 0,0:02:25.18,0:02:26.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,one full season ahead of time Dialogue: 0,0:02:26.76,0:02:29.47,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,FInally, fast fashion is dependent \Non cheap labor Dialogue: 0,0:02:29.56,0:02:31.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and those savings are passed on \Nto the customer. Dialogue: 0,0:02:32.15,0:02:34.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Fashion has always run on people power Dialogue: 0,0:02:34.08,0:02:35.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,more than anything else. Dialogue: 0,0:02:35.57,0:02:38.03,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Currently, one in six humans on earth Dialogue: 0,0:02:38.03,0:02:39.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,works in the fashion industry Dialogue: 0,0:02:39.43,0:02:40.47,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's massive! Dialogue: 0,0:02:40.47,0:02:41.47,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And for the most part Dialogue: 0,0:02:41.47,0:02:43.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,those humans live in \Ndeveloping countries. Dialogue: 0,0:02:43.59,0:02:46.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But cheap labor comes at a high cost. Dialogue: 0,0:02:46.25,0:02:48.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,With globalization, the world's economies Dialogue: 0,0:02:48.39,0:02:50.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,became increasingly late. Dialogue: 0,0:02:50.27,0:02:52.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The promise of fast fashion was Dialogue: 0,0:02:52.18,0:02:54.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,trendy clothes at a low cost. Dialogue: 0,0:02:54.12,0:02:55.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Therefore, "democratizing fashion" Dialogue: 0,0:02:55.80,0:02:57.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in the words of Amancio Ortega. Dialogue: 0,0:02:57.80,0:03:01.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,At the same time, companies like\NForever21 and H&M would Dialogue: 0,0:03:01.31,0:03:03.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,provide jobs for workers in \Nthe developing world Dialogue: 0,0:03:03.73,0:03:05.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It didn't work out exactly like that. Dialogue: 0,0:03:05.72,0:03:07.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Fast fashion companies have come \Nunder fire Dialogue: 0,0:03:07.88,0:03:08.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for exploiting workers Dialogue: 0,0:03:09.13,0:03:11.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This has meant everything from child labor Dialogue: 0,0:03:11.66,0:03:13.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to forcing workers to handle\Ndangerous chemicals Dialogue: 0,0:03:13.92,0:03:17.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and being grossly underpaid for \Nlong hours without a break. Dialogue: 0,0:03:17.49,0:03:19.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In 2013, a preventable structural failing Dialogue: 0,0:03:19.60,0:03:21.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,caused a building in Bangladesh \Nto collapse Dialogue: 0,0:03:21.92,0:03:24.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,More than 1,100 garment workers \Nwere trapped inside Dialogue: 0,0:03:24.91,0:03:26.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and injuring more than 2,500. Dialogue: 0,0:03:27.11,0:03:29.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The Rana Plaza disaster was the deadliest Dialogue: 0,0:03:29.40,0:03:31.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,garment factory accident in history. Dialogue: 0,0:03:31.72,0:03:33.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And while we now spend less than Dialogue: 0,0:03:33.70,0:03:36.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,3% of our annual income on clothing, Dialogue: 0,0:03:36.09,0:03:38.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,compared to about 10% in the 50s, Dialogue: 0,0:03:38.52,0:03:40.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we have an absurd amount of clothing Dialogue: 0,0:03:40.51,0:03:42.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because fast fashion means that Dialogue: 0,0:03:42.10,0:03:43.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,clothing is disposible. Dialogue: 0,0:03:43.33,0:03:45.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Fashion is also terrible \Nfor the environment Dialogue: 0,0:03:45.62,0:03:47.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Long story short, more clothes made Dialogue: 0,0:03:47.96,0:03:50.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,much more quickly, for \Na fraction of the cost, Dialogue: 0,0:03:50.61,0:03:52.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,means a glut of cheap clothing Dialogue: 0,0:03:52.54,0:03:53.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,piling up in our landfills. Dialogue: 0,0:03:54.04,0:03:56.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,To get a sense of the sheer \Nvolume of clothing Dialogue: 0,0:03:56.25,0:03:57.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we are talking about here Dialogue: 0,0:03:57.64,0:03:59.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Let's do a quick rundown a fast fashion's Dialogue: 0,0:03:59.88,0:04:02.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,environmental impact by the numbers Dialogue: 0,0:04:02.23,0:04:03.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,150 billion, Dialogue: 0,0:04:03.57,0:04:06.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the number of new garments produced \Neach year Dialogue: 0,0:04:06.31,0:04:09.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That's more than 20 garments per person\Non Earth. Dialogue: 0,0:04:09.81,0:04:10.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,2.5 billion, Dialogue: 0,0:04:11.12,0:04:13.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the number of pounds of fabric waste Dialogue: 0,0:04:13.17,0:04:15.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,removed from the waste stream, Dialogue: 0,0:04:15.01,0:04:17.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,according to the Council for\NTextile Recycling Dialogue: 0,0:04:17.40,0:04:19.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,60, the percent by which Dialogue: 0,0:04:19.26,0:04:20.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the amount of clothing we own Dialogue: 0,0:04:20.85,0:04:23.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,has increased between 2000 to 2014, Dialogue: 0,0:04:23.90,0:04:25.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,according to Greenpeace. Dialogue: 0,0:04:25.10,0:04:27.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But we keep clothes for half as long as Dialogue: 0,0:04:27.61,0:04:29.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we did just 15 years ago Dialogue: 0,0:04:29.51,0:04:31.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,leading to a massive amount of waste. Dialogue: 0,0:04:31.94,0:04:35.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,10, the percent of the global \Ncarbon footprint the Dialogue: 0,0:04:35.20,0:04:37.03,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fashion industry is responsible for. Dialogue: 0,0:04:37.03,0:04:40.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There is no question that fashion \Nis contributing to the Dialogue: 0,0:04:40.10,0:04:41.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,effects of climate change. Dialogue: 0,0:04:41.42,0:04:43.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,While clothing is recyclable Dialogue: 0,0:04:43.29,0:04:45.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the amount of clothing produced Dialogue: 0,0:04:45.07,0:04:48.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,has far outstripped our capacity \Nto recycle it. Dialogue: 0,0:04:48.11,0:04:50.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's gotten so bad that in April, Dialogue: 0,0:04:50.39,0:04:54.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,China, which was previously a top \Ndestination for recycled textiles Dialogue: 0,0:04:54.33,0:04:56.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,has officially banned them Dialogue: 0,0:04:56.26,0:04:58.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And in North America, the city \Nof Markham, Dialogue: 0,0:04:58.42,0:04:59.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Ontario, in Canada, Dialogue: 0,0:04:59.79,0:05:01.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is the first municipality to ban Dialogue: 0,0:05:01.83,0:05:03.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,textile waste from landfills Dialogue: 0,0:05:03.47,0:05:05.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But wait, it gets even worse! Dialogue: 0,0:05:06.16,0:05:08.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Fashion is the second biggest polluter of Dialogue: 0,0:05:08.75,0:05:10.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,clean water on the planet. Dialogue: 0,0:05:10.50,0:05:13.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Toxic chemicals used to dye \Nand treat clothing have Dialogue: 0,0:05:13.08,0:05:14.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,been linked to miscarriages, Dialogue: 0,0:05:14.54,0:05:16.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,birth defects and cancer. Dialogue: 0,0:05:16.72,0:05:18.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You have to ask yourself: Dialogue: 0,0:05:18.40,0:05:19.77,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Is it worth it?