WEBVTT 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 We all love to shop 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 and these days the newer styles in clothes 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 are cheaper than ever 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 you can literally snag a dress for 4 bucks 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 which is basically the price of a vanilla latte 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 But buying cheap comes at a high cost 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 And I know, I know, I hear you 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 You're like "Wembley, what does that actually mean?" 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 And that basically means that fast fashion 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 just works on exploitative labor conditions 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 and it's destroying the environment. 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 Over the last two centuries 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 as the world has changed 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 our relationship with clothes has dramatically changed too. 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 From an era where clothing was bespoke 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 or tailor-made for each individual 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 to the ready-to-wear era 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 where pre-made clothing came in standardized sizes 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 and the current era of fast fashion 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 the fashion industry today 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 looks nothing like it did in the past 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 and, of course, not all change is good 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 an obscene amount of clothes, 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 stealing independent designers' ideas 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 low wages, unsafe conditions and harassment 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 factory works sewing pleas to help in their clothing 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 Yikes 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 Before we get into all of that 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 what exactly is fast fashion? 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 you're right if you think it sounds like fast food 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 It's cheap, quick and of questinable quality. 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 Back to the topic at hand 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 If fast fashion isn't bespoken, isn't ready-to-wear 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 then, what is it? 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 to answer that question 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 we need to travel to a small village 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 in Galicia, Spain, of La Coruna. 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 In 1963, a man named Amancio Ortega Gaona 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 launched a company which would go on 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 to become the biggest fashion retailer on Earth 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 that company is now known as Zara Inditex 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 you may have recognized its most famous holding, Zara 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 Retailer Zara pioneered the fast fashion model 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 there are four major points: 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 First, the vertical integration 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 That's just a fancy way of saying 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 the company does it all in-house 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 from design and manufacturing, 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 and selling clothes 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 this helps streamline cost 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 and optimize production processes 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 fast fashion is all about feedback 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 designers recieve data on what sells and what doesn't 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 as often as daily 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 they often conduct field research 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 on what's trending 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 and it's pretty much by just going out and seeing 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 what people are wearing on the street 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 Onto speadier design-to-reatil cycle 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 in fast fashion the emphasis is on fast 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 the time it takes to make clothing is now 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 a fraction of what it once was 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 For Zara, which leads the industry, 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 it just takes five weeks 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 instead of fixing new collections 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 fast fashion outlets generate the line share of profits 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 through designs produced in season. 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 ready-to-wear collections are made and debuted 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 one full season ahead of time 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 FInally, fast fashion is dependent on cheap labor 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 and those savings are passed on to the costumer 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 fashion has always run people power 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 more than anything else 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 Currently, one in six humans on earth 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 works in the fashion industry 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 It's massive! 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 And for the most part, 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 those humans live in developing countries 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 but cheap labor comes at a high cost 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 with globalization the world's economies 99:59:59.999 --> 99:59:59.999 became increasingly