How fast fashion adds to the world's clothing waste problem (Marketplace)

This is "Marketplace."

Whoa.

Pajamas, old dresses.

Oh, my gosh!

Where do all your old clothes
really end up?

Ultimately, it is going
to end up in a landfill.

We follow the trail around the world.

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The high cost of fast fashion.

This is your "Marketplace."

I'm here checking out some of
the biggest fashion chains in the world,

but I'm not shopping for new clothes.

I'm actually trying to get rid
of some of my old ones.

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So these are my all-time favorite
sweatpants from college.

These, I washed them
and they totally shrunk.

These were also super cheap.

This is just an old T-shirt.

It was black at one point in its life.

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Some retailers are on a mission.

They want your unwanted clothes,

and some are competing
with charities for it.

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There's a new bin in town
and the message is clear:

Don't throw old clothes in the garbage,

dump them here.

They'll take curtain, they'll take jeans.

They'll even take your old underwear.

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Drop off old clothes and get a coupon
to save money when you buy new ones.

But before I part with my old clothes,

I've got a few more questions.

These bins sure make us all feel good.

But are they doing as much good
as we think?

Look at this!

Look at these bags!

Most of use are
like the Bretons and the Palmas

in Markham, Ontario.

Somehow, we end up with too many clothes.

Emily, what's in here?

Old clothes that are too small for me.

They purge a few times a year,

normally dropping
their haul in a charity bin.

Whoa!

Stuff like these have holes in them.

This isn't just a pile of clothes.

It's now a pile of textile waste.

And we want to show the kids
just how big the problem really is.

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Are we guys ready to go inside

and see what happens to all
those clothes that you donate?

- Yes.
- All right. Let's go inside.

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Go on in, take a look.

Whoa!

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- Clothes! Clothes!
- That's clothes.

- Clothes!
- Do you see that?

- Oh, my gosh.
- Clothes!

That's a crazy pile.

And get this, all of this
is what's leftover,

the stuff no one wants.

The stuff that thrift stores can't sell.

All those clothes you guys
piled up yesterday,

this is where it can end up.

It's a lot of clothes.

It wasn't what I was expecting to see.

One warehouse,

more than 200,000 pounds
of textile waste each week.

And that's just from
in and around Toronto.

Across the country,
we've got nine other locations

similar to this one.

The last year or two years,
probably a 15 to 20% growth

in the overall volume of textiles
that are coming in.

Tonny Colyn is head of donations
for Salvation Army Canada.

So, how do you think fast
fashion has impacted... this?

All of this.

It's had a massive effect.

And all of that stuff has to go somewhere.

The dads of these two families,

Michael Palma and Norman Breton
can't believe it.

Their coats or boots might be okay,
but they want something new.

If they need or if they want,
it's a big question.

A lot of times they want stuff
but they don't need it.

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Still, we can't seem to get our hands
on fast fashion fast enough.

Cheap, trendy, disposable clothes.

And we're even bragging about it.

And I ended up with a bag full of clothes.

We're all buying too much,
400% more, since the 1980's.

The quality isn't all that great,
but the prices are fantastic.

But not all of our old clothes
make it to the donation bin.

Most of it, 85%, ends up in landfill.

In North America, it's estimated to be
at least 25 billion pounds a year.

In Canada alone, imagine a mountain

three times the size
of Toronto's Rogers Centre Stadium

Where they don't biodegrade easily

because many are made with fabrics
that can't be broken down,

releasing chemicals and dyes
into our rivers, soil.

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That's part of the reason why fashion
is one of the world's top polluters.

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So in the last few years,

some of the biggest names in the business,

Levi's, Nike, Adidas, Zara,

have started recycling programs.

All retailers with donation bins in stores

calling out for your old garments.

But none go as far as H&M.

They will take anything: jeans,
curtains, even underwear.

Just check out their ads.

The thing that you never wore.

That and that and that

The thing with the color
that wasn't your color.

Bring it on.

This is one of H&M's latest ad campaigns.

Cut your jeans into pieces
and make new jeans out of them.

"Cut your jeans into pieces
and make new jeans out of them."

With your help, we literally turn
your old clothes into new garments.

"We literally turn your old clothes
into new garments."'

Garments in the worst condition
can be transformed

into insulation material
or textile fibers woven into cloth,

reborn as fashionable new clothes
of every conceivable kind.

What do you think about recycling clothes?

I think that's amazing
That's a great plan.

We're talking about recycling clothes.

What does that make you
think is happening to the stuff?

I think maybe it's, like,
refurbish the clothes

and get them to look new again.

What do you think happens to that stuff?

Doesn't it get recycled to make
new clothes from the old clothes?

Let's shred it into fibers
and stitch it into something new.

The only thing we will not do is waste it.

Bold recycling claims.

They sound great, but are they really?

(Flight attendant over intercom)

To try to find out,
we head to New York City,

one of the fashion capitals
of the world...

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With jackets, you always
have to check the lining.

...To meet Elizabeth Cline,
an anti-fast fashion crusader.

Because of what she knows,
she only wears used clothes.

It's made her a pro
at assessing cast-offs.

On a coat, the first thing you would do
is make sure the zippers work.

Especially fast fashion, like,
a lot of the fasteners will just break

and chip really quickly.

We show her H&M's marketing

and ask her what she thinks about
making new clothes out of your old ones.

Shred it into fibers and stitch it
into something new.

The reality is that currently, only about
1% of clothing is actually recycled

in the very literal sense of the word.

-1%?
-1%.

1%... is recycled?

If you're talking about recycling
in terms of taking fibers

and breaking them down

and turning them back
into new fibers, it's 1%.

Why is it so hard
to just take my old shirt

and turn it into a new one?

Why can't you just do that?

A lot of our clothes are made
out of blended fibers,

so maybe this is acrylic and wool
and cotton mixed together,

maybe my tights are cotton and elastane.

That makes it very difficult to recycle.

The other challenge is that
when you recycle cotton and wool,

it diminishes the quality
of that material,

so it weakens the cotton and wool strand
and gives you a lesser product.

Bottom line, the technology
just isn't there yet.

It's way too expensive
and too time consuming

to make new clothes from old ones.

There's also a more skeptical side of me

that knows that the reason why
H&M is focusing on textile recycling

is because it's an easy
sustainability win for them.

It doesn't involve them changing
their production model at all

to collect clothes and make sure
that they get a second life.

It doesn't make the fast fashion
system any more sustainable.

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Experts agree fast fashion needs to change

if we really want to make a difference.

Remember when fashion had four seasons,

winter, spring, summer, and fall?

Now, the trends change almost every day.

Here's how this Swedish clothing giant
CEO explains it.

We have new garments coming
into the stores almost every day.

So if you go to an H&M store today
and come back two days later,

you will always find something new.

H&M salespeople tell us
new clothes come in

every Monday, Wednesday,
Friday, and Sunday.

That works out to half
a billion products a year.

And it's why H&M's recycling campaign

makes Claudia Marsales so mad.

It really is a form of greenwashing.

She's the head of Markham,
Ontario's waste programs.

One of the few Canadian cities
to actually ban textiles from landfills.

In order for the fast fashion outlets

to recycle what they make,

it would take 12 years to recycle
what they sell in 48 hours.

Like it's just...

So that sort of tells me it's really
more about foot traffic, marketing,

greenwashing, than about really
addressing the broken business model

of fast fashion.

We asked H&M to come on camera
and talk about their recycling program.

They declined, assuring us

they don't want
to encourage a throwaway attitude.

Their clothes are good quality
and made to last.

And they are working towards
a business model where,

eventually, all their clothes
can be recycled.

At least they're trying?

Yes, well, but they're a cause
of the problem.

So, fast fashion retailers,

their business model is the problem.

They're making too much,
they're selling it too cheap.

It's disposable clothing.

Doing a bit of back-end recycling
and a bit of commercials

really doesn't address that issue.

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And ask some customers one of the things
they love most about the program?

It's the discount.

That incentive to keep buying.

I put it in the bin and then
they give me the discount.

I saw it and it's like, oh, snap.

You know, it's a way to, like,

you know, help me
and help them at the same time.

What do you mean when you say help you
and help someone else?

Help me by, you know, saving money

and help them
by providing free clothing for them.

We just chuck it in the bin
and they did offer, like, a $5 discount.

H&M might be collecting your old clothes.

More than 55,000 tonnes so far,

but if they're barely making new clothes
from your donations,

where do they all go?

These shoppers have a theory.

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Where do you think those clothes go
that you put in H&M?

They probably go to people who need them,

probably like shelters

or other places that use the clothes.

Probably give it for free, or something,
to the people that need it.

Where do you think that stuff goes?

- What do you think happens to it?
- Hopefully to just some needy people.

Who still want to be fashionable.

Many of us think our old clothes
are given to the less fortunate.

Wrong.

And maybe you're telling yourself that

to feel better about buying more, too.

Well, Cline coined a term for this.

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What's the clothing deficit myth?

(chuckle) So, the clothing deficit myth
is the idea

that when we give clothes to charity,

they're going to go to someone locally
in our community in need.

But in the era of fast fashion,

there's far more unwanted clothes
than there are people in need.

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The Salvation Army knows all about that.

Remember, this is all the stuff
they can't sell at their stores.

So what do they do
with all these leftovers?

They sell it to a middle man.

And the retailers do the same thing
with all your donations too.

In Canada, H&M gives the money
it makes off your donations to UNICEF.

Here's the thing.

All textiles are worth money.

The stuff that's in really rough shape
is shredded for painter's cloths

or insulation, for example, then sold.

But the majority of all donated clothes

are shipped overseas
to developing countries

and they're sold there, too.

Not donated or given to needy people.

And if you think that means
it's not going to end up in landfills,

think again.

We follow the trail of your old T-shirts
around the world.

The black stripes here are from Canada.

You can't afford to miss this trip.

This is your "Marketplace."

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The real deal on your "Marketplace."

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We love our clothes.

Now so cheap, you can make
a different statement every day.

These things are $3?

$5.

But they come with a huge cost.

Part of the reason why
some fast fashion chains,

like H&M, say they've got
recycling programs like this.

The Earth simply cannot bear
so many clothes

ending their lives as waste.

H&M has a far better answer.

But we learnt less than 1%
of the world's used clothes

are turned into new ones.

The majority of those donations
from retailer and charity bins

are bailed and sold overseas.

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This is Nairobi, Kenya.

The country at the top of the list

when it comes to buying your old clothes.

Kenya is one of Canada's best customers.

In a given year, they buy
more than $20 million

worth of our old clothes.

All the rest with the black stripes here
are from Canada.

These are a variety of kids clothing.

This one is a jacket.

Ladies T-shirts.

Maina Andrew is a used clothing importer.

People from Canada and America,

they are actually a bit huge.

Scenes like this aren't isolated.

You'll see them all over Africa
South and Central America.

A lot of this is stuff
Canadians donated for free,

only for it to be sold here
for profit to vendors

like Alice Nyansarora Anunda,

who brings it to her local market.

They call the clothes, "Mitumba."

(laughter)

No, that one, it's just
a nickname we gave it,

"Mitumba" means, "Old" in our culture.

Nearly 13,000 kilometres away.

But take a closer look and there they are.

The names you know.

AEO, Zara, Adidas, H&M.

The way we open bails,

we know their plans
where there's new clothes,

especially those which come from Canada.

But Andrew notices many of the clothes
are low quality, tough to sell.

We just dump them.

If people don't buy them,
we just dump them.

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They do go in the piles of garbage
very many of them.

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He says this happens regularly
right behind the market,

discarding and burning clothes
Canadians don't want

and neither do Kenyans.

Sometimes they pack even very old items.

You can even pack items
that are not even good,

and they end up dumping them
in Africa or in Kenya

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Yeah, we burn them and it is a lost work
because we already bought them.

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All those popular brands
in the crowded markets,

Elizabeth Cline has seen them, too.
She's been to Kenya.

There are a lot of different companies
around the world

that are working on textile recycling
in the truest sense of the word,

but it's really in the very early stages.

Whether it stays in the United States
or if it ends up in Africa,

ultimately, it is going to end up
in the landfill.

We tell H&M about this Kenyan market
and all the fires.

They say its middle man I:CO,

which handles pickup
and distribution of their bins,

has really high standards.

But they are still working on building
a better tracking system

so this doesn't keep happening.

Dumping is always cheaper.

It's always the cheaper option.

There's only one solution.

The producer of the clothing
is responsible cradle to grave.

So they make the T-shirt,
they sell the T-shirt,

the T-shirt comes back,
they have to recycle that T-shirt.

They can't put it
in a third world country.

As far as South Africa is concerned,
we banned secondhand clothing.

When a country survives
on a secondhand things,

secondhand clothes,

it means there's something wrong
with that system.

Threatening the survival
of the local textiles industry.

And now, many of those countries
are fighting back.

East African countries sent
the world a message recently.

They don't want our hand-me-downs
and tried to ban them.

Their government said it was destroying
their own textile market.

Secondhand clothes are quite cheap

and any manufactured textile
would not be able to compete with them.

And despite everything you just watched,

Cline says H&M group is a frontrunner
in sustainability efforts.

Compared to other brands,
they are leaders.

I don't know what that says about
the rest of the fashion industry,

that a fast fashion chain
is at the top of that list.

Just know that your textile waste
in an environmental issue.

Textile waste in landfills is one
of the fastest growing categories of waste

and it's such an easy thing
to do something about.

So what should you do
with all your old clothes?

The answers, coming right up.

Do you have a story
you want us to investigate?

Write to us: [e-mail]

The high cost of fashion
on your "Marketplace."

- Do you ever impulse buy?
- Absolutely.

What was the last thing you bought
that now you see, and you're like:

- "What was I thinking?"
- Clothing always.

On average, we buy almost
70 clothing items every year.

That means we're buying
new clothes every week.

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- What did you buy?
- A lot of stuff.

- Did you need anything?
- No.

Just looking around
and you bought a few things.

Yes, I bought lots of things:
leggings, shirts, socks, underwear.

Most of these styles will end up
trashed in landfill.

Fast fashion is a big part of the problem,

but we don't have to buy in.

So this is 50% polyester, 50% cotton.

It's really hard to separate those fibers
and make new stuff.

Do you know how many litres of water
goes into making a single pair of jeans?

Almost 4,000 litres.

- Wow.
- Whoo.

That's crazy.

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And sometimes,

just seeing the waste
makes a difference.

These families swear
they'll change their ways.

They want to look at the cute things,
things that look good,

but not necessarily good quality.

We have to... we try to teach them
to use their stuff until it's worn out.

Speaking of waste and consumption,

I've still got my bag of clothes
to get rid of.

I don't really know where
the best place is to go with my stuff.

And I think people at home who see this

are probably going to have
the same question

Some people like to swap the clothes,
so that's the first line of defence.

If it's in really good condition,

you can take them to a consignment store.

You can also donate
to a reputable charity.

Do your research on who
you're giving your clothing to.

Don't buy so much.

So bottom line, when it comes
to your used clothing,

don't throw it away,

try and give it to somebody
who can actually use it.

Hey, girls, does anybody need a T-shirt?

No, you sure?

Black dress pants? Hardly ever wore them.

This is cool, right? Zipper in the back.

I think I'm okay.

Any chance you want to return yours
and take these ones?

No, thank you.

They're a size small.
I wore them, like, twice.

- No, thank you.
- No? No.

Do any of you need a pair of pajama pants

or know someone who might want these?

- I'll take them.
- T-shirt?

Any chance you want a pair of Levi's?

Sure, size 6, me.

- Awesome!
- Awesome.

There you go and they won't go
to a landfill this way.

No.

Maybe there is no perfect solution
to this complicated probelm.

But if there's something I've learned
throughout this process,

it's that there is something I can do.

And, for me, that will mean buying less.

A special, year long
Marketplace investigation.

We go undercover, inside nursing homes.

I was shouting my head off
and they didn't come in.

Families fighting for better care.

Die, die you bitch. You need to die now.

My poor mother.

Has long term care reached a crisis point?

Oh, we're way past that.

I think we've been in crisis for years.

If this happened in a day care,

that day care would be
shut down in five minutes.

How to fight for better care,

on the next Marketplace

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