## Complete Guide into Belay Devices - Differences and Efficient Usage | Ep.6

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Belaying devices.
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There are so many different
belaying devices
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nowadays on the market and in my hands.
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And after this video you will be able
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to pick any of them.
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Not from my hands.
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And you will know how it works
and how to use it.
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So first of all, a belaying device
is simply a mechanism
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which allows to control
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the friction between your hand
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and the climber.
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Alright.
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So here I hang and here I have almost
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60 kilograms of force pulling
on this strand of the rope.
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However for me to hold that
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I'm only using about 6 to 7
kilograms of force
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on the brake side of the rope.
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However if I would start raising
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my brake hand up
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the force needed to hold that
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goes to 9 kilograms of force...
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10...
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12...
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15...
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So my max was around 25 kilograms of force
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with two hands in this position.
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That means that in this position
at this angle
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I can not even hold my own weight
with two hands.
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There is no even talking about one hand.
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So now let's see how much
assistance I will get
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if my rope strands are completely
parallel to each other.
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So I will start pulling up
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as hard as i can.
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And so the answer is almost nothing.
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Now to explain how that works
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since there is so many
different belaying devices
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I'm gonna group all of them
into different categories.
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First one is tubular style devices.
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That many mistakenly call them reverso.
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Which is only this device -
Petzl Reverso.
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Or ATC which is this Black Diamond ATC.
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While Mammut calls this
Alpine Belaying Device. Simple.
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So with tubes the more
I move my brake hand down
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the more it squeezes the rope between
the carabiner and belaying device.
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And also tubes have
a little groove in front of them.
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Which even further pinches on the rope.
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Plus as I pull down on the rope
it tilts the device
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which creates extra angles
and extra friction.
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So as we saw in my previous experiment
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if my hand is at the
level of the belaying device or higher
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the device creates very little friction.
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So if the climber would fall
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while my hand is
in this position or higher
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there is a high chance
that my hand would simply
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get sucked into the belaying device.
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I got my hand pinched...
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And then maybe I will hurt my hand
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And let go off the rope.
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So if you want to see how my hand is
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getting sucked into belaying device
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Also worth mentioning is that
rope thickness or diameter
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has a huge effect on how easily
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the rope will go through belaying device.
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And every belaying device has a
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recommended range of rope thicknesses
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which you can find
somewhere in the manuals
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or sometimes on the device itself.
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And this brings us to advantages
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of tubular style devices.
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First of all they work better with
wider range of rope diameters.
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All the way from super thick gym ropes
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to ultra skinny twin ropes.
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On contrast if you would take a GriGri
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it says that it's optimized to work
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from 8.9 to 10.5 millimeters ropes.
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But from my experience
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anything from 10 millimeters and above
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doesn't work that well anymore.
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Yeah, there is this older GriGri
which works better with thicker ropes.
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But that one doesn't work well
with thin ropes.
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Next, tubes are super lightweight.
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And they allow you to belay with two ropes
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either double ropes or twin ropes.
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And if you don't know
what's a double or twin rope
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you should watch
my master class on the ropes.
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Also with tubes you can make a soft catch
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without moving yourself.
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By allowing the rope
to slip through the device.
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And in general tubes don't catch as hard
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because there is always
a little bit of slippage
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which reduces the peak forces.
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Which might be very beneficial
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Since it reduces the chance
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that the pieces of the gear will fall out.
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And finally tubes have
this loop at the top.
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And that allows you
to set this device in a guide mode
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in which you can even belay
two following climbers
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coming up on top rope simultaneously
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simon... simultaneously.
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And all of that are the reasons
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why tubes are still very commonly used
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in traditional or alpine
or multi-pitch scenarios.
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However none of that is really useful
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if you're just doing
single pitch sport climbing.
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And the biggest disadvantage of tubes
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is of course that they don't lock
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meaning if you would let go the rope.
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Which by the way brings us
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to the main rule of belaying.
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If you are in need of number two
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and you have a choice to poop your pants
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or to let go the brake side of the rope -
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you poop your pants!
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Meaning in no circumstances
you're allowed to lose control
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of the brake side of the rope.
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And that's by the way also equally true
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for assisted belaying devices
but we are gonna talk next.
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So assisted devices
have an ability to lock
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in case the climber falls.
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Which obviously adds a lot of safety.
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For example if you would
knock a rock while you're climbing
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and that rock would
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And that's why we wear a helmet!
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So first of all your belayer would
really like to have a helmet.
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But you as a climber
would really love that
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there would be one of these
assisted devices down there.
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And in fact my own skin
was once saved by this guy.
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When I did a little fall
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and my belayer did not notice
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that there was a rock next to her leg.
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And while she was flying forward,
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her leg got stuck, and she spun around,
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and hit her back to the wall.
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And let both of the hands go.
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So this guy is basically a reason why
I'm still here.
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And making these videos.
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Now super important that number two rule
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is also applicable for these guys.
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After all they are called assisted
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so don't treat them as fully automatic.
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Because there are cases
where they will not lock.
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Apart from safety this locking is also
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super useful in long belays
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If your climber is hanging
on the rope a lot
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and projecting some hard moves.
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So if we compare this to the tube
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even in the most mechanically
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you will still need to hold on the rope.
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And in very long belays
this will get tiring.
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While with assisted devices
it's pretty chill.
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You are literally just
sitting in your harness.
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OK, so the first group of
assisted belaying devices
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is called assisted tubers.
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That's because they look like tubes
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and they work similarly to regular tubes
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where we squeeze the rope
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between the carabiner and the device.
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Except that they have a shape
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that shifts the carabiner in position
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where it squeezes on the rope so hard
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that it completely locks it off.
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A little disadvantage of assisted tubes
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is that once in locked position
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you cannot quickly
feed slack to the climber.
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You need a special action
to unlock the device
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before you can feed the rope
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For example with Click Up
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it even clicks
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and now I cannot do anything.
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I literally need to unclick it.
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And now I can continue belaying.
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Now one really important thing
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that not many know about assisted tubers
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That they suffer from the same problem
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as regular tubes
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meaning that
if your hand is in up position
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the device will not lock.
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As you can see it's not locking
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And if the climber would take a fall
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the rope would just slide from my hand
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and burn it. Oh, it's already burning.
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However unlike regular tubes
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Where you can get your hands sucked
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even at very big angles
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most assisted tubers
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will only fail at the angles
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that are very extremely high up.
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And some actually don't fail at all.
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I'm actually gonna make a separate video
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where I was experimenting
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at which angles which devices lock.
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So stay tuned for that.
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I can't put everything
into one video because
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I need you to subscribe.
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But independently of which
belaying device you're using
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just develop a habit of keeping
your brake hand down.
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Also good to know for people
who climb with two ropes
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is that there are assisted tubers
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that work with two ropes.
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In case you go on a multi-pitch
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and you want extra safety
you have some options.
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All right let's move on to
cam assisted devices.
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I'm sure everybody knows GriGri.
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But there are more devices like
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Trango Vergo and Birdie and others.
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And the way they work is
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that they have a camming
mechanism inside
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which pinches on the rope.
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Now in the case of GriGri
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the cam is spring-loaded
meaning that as soon as
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there is no more load
on the climber's end of the rope
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the cam will disengage.
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And you can belay normally.
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While in the case of Vergo
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it doesn't have a spring.
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And you need to position the device
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in a certain way
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to be able to feed the slack.
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All right back to GriGri.
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If you press on GriGri's cam
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but you ignore the rule number two
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and you don't hold
the break side of the rope
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this can happen...
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Also if you ignore rule number two
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and your GriGri gets trapped
in the first piece of gear
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this can happen
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Many of you asked
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if this problem of
trapping in the first bolt
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where it disengages the cam
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is also applicable for assisted tubers.
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So with most assisted devices
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the answer is unlikely.
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Since there is no cam that i could press
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to disengage this locking.
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Only if i would press on this end
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it kind of slips a bit but still
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stays locked.
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This Click Up
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doesn't even lock
if i don't hold the rope.
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Amazing. Number two rule. Hold the rope.
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Yeah.
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There's no way I can unlock this
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in this manner.
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So no assisted tubers
don't have this risk.
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Now this is a little future me
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after I was editing this part
that you just seen.
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And I saw this I realized that
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I was using a wrong carabiner.
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Turns out Click Ups need
their own specific carabiners
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And that's a reason why
you should read the manual.
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So that's the carabiner
you should use for a Click Up.
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Let's see if it locks.
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No difference.
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So number two rule.
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And read the manual
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because some of
the assisted delaying devices
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require you a specific belaying carabiner.
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I don't know if it's just marketing
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or the shape of the carabiner
is slightly different.
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Just use what the manufacturers recommend.
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And finally there is this guy.
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It's a Revo from Wild Country.
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It's an inertia based mechanism.
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Which will lock once the climber starts
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falling faster than 4 meters per second.
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So if i pull slowly it doesn't lock.
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I need to pull really fast
in order for it to lock.
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So my goal of this video
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is not to compare all
of the delaying devices
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on the market and
tell you which one to buy.
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Sorry for that.
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Every device have its own
pros and cons, haters and lovers.
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Full internet of that.
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However if you would want such comparison
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let me know in the comments and maybe
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I will make a separate video on that.
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OK now I have a tip for you
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that will make your life
a little bit easier
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and maybe will even save your ass
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on a multi-pitch one day.
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Humans,
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we have two hands normally
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and handling more than
two objects in two hands
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is not ideal.
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What I often see that people
take their belaying device,
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their carabiner, the rope...
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That's already three objects by the way.
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And they try to connect everything
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in space
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like so...
• 13:49 - 13:50
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So doing this
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will greatly increase the chance
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that one day you will drop something.
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You will be trying to connect something
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and then suddenly whoops...
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Your belaying device flies down.
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If you're not on a multi-pitch
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if you're standing on the ground
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that's not a big deal.
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However if you drop your belaying device
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on a multi-pitch
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you are in big trouble.
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So this is what you do to avoid that.
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Normally your belaying device
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will live with your carabiner
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somewhere on the harness.
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So step one.
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You take both of them
together as one unit.
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So I'm carrying only one unit.
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And you immediately connect it
to belaying loop.
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So you cannot drop anything right now,
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everything is safe.
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Step two. You take a bite of rope
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and you insert into your belaying device.
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Keep in mind of
the orientation of the rope
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which end has to go to the climber
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which end is your break hand.
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If you're not sure
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every belaying device has an image
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on the side of it.
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Which will remind you that.
• 14:51 - 14:54
And next. Open your carabiner
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and hook your rope together
• 14:56 - 14:58
with the belaying device.
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So at no point there was a chance for me
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to drop anything.
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And once you're done belaying
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you simply reverse the process.
• 15:06 - 15:08
Where you open the carabiner,
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you unhook the rope.
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But you hook the belaying device.
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And then you simply can
just pull out the rope.
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And your belaying device stays
on your harness with the carabiner.
• 15:16 - 15:20
If you want to put it somewhere else
you put it somewhere else.
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And the same works with assisted tubers.
• 15:21 - 15:23
So step one.
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Connect your belaying device
• 15:26 - 15:27
take a bite of rope,
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put that bite of rope
into belaying device,
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open the carabiner and hook the rope
and belaying device together.
• 15:36 - 15:40
Now in case of the GriGri
it's slightly different.
• 15:40 - 15:42
So as always step one
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clip your belaying device
to your belay loop.
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So you cannot drop anything.
• 15:46 - 15:47
Now if you're not on a multi-pitch
• 15:47 - 15:49
and dropping your GriGri
is not a big deal
• 15:49 - 15:51
you simply take off your grigri,
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open it in this cool way,
• 15:53 - 15:57
insert the rope, and clip it back. Simple.
• 15:57 - 16:00
Now if you are on a multi-pitch
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there is a technique.
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So this is what you do.
• 16:03 - 16:06
You open your carabiner
• 16:06 - 16:09
and hook only half of the GriGri together.
• 16:09 - 16:11
Then you can open the GriGri.
• 16:11 - 16:13
And it's connected to your carabiner.
• 16:13 - 16:14
You cannot drop it.
• 16:14 - 16:15
You insert the rope.
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You close it.
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And then you open your carabiner again
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and hook the grigri back.
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So this is as safe as you can do
with the grigri
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on a multi-pitch.
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And obviously once you're done
• 16:28 - 16:32
it's just simply reversing the process of
• 16:32 - 16:35
doing this
• 16:35 - 16:38
and doing that.
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OK so I hope that by now
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I gave you enough examples
• 16:41 - 16:43
how not to use belaying devices.
• 16:43 - 16:46
And now i'm gonna show you
proper techniques.
• 16:46 - 16:48
The good part is that
• 16:48 - 16:50
no matter what belaying device you use
• 16:50 - 16:53
good belaying techniques don't change.
• 16:53 - 16:55
There are slight differences
that i'm gonna mention.
• 16:55 - 16:57
But for majority it's the same.
• 16:57 - 16:58
All right.
• 16:58 - 17:00
So I hope that by now
• 17:00 - 17:03
number two rule is
strongly embedded into you.
• 17:03 - 17:05
However if for some reason
• 17:05 - 17:07
you really need to go hands-free
• 17:07 - 17:10
you can tie a backup knot
• 17:10 - 17:12
at your brake end. Like so.
• 17:12 - 17:15
And this is totally fine.
• 17:15 - 17:17
In case something happens and the rope
• 17:17 - 17:18
would slip all the way
• 17:18 - 17:20
the GriGri will lock.
• 17:20 - 17:22
However in the case of tube
• 17:22 - 17:23
it's slightly different.
• 17:23 - 17:25
If you would just simply
• 17:25 - 17:27
tie a knot here.
• 17:27 - 17:29
And the climber would fall.
• 17:29 - 17:30
There is a chance that
• 17:30 - 17:32
this knot will get jammed
• 17:32 - 17:34
in your belaying device so hard
• 17:34 - 17:38
that you will have trouble to unjam it.
• 17:38 - 17:40
Let's use a slightly different carabiner
• 17:40 - 17:42
so it's easier for you
to see what's happening.
• 17:42 - 17:45
So in the case of tube
• 17:45 - 17:46
you take a bite of rope
• 17:46 - 17:48
and then you take another bite of rope
• 17:48 - 17:51
and put through the first one
• 17:51 - 17:53
and you make it tight.
• 17:53 - 17:56
And make sure that
this loop is long enough.
• 17:56 - 17:57
Like so.
• 17:57 - 17:59
This will hold but this is not enough.
• 17:59 - 18:02
To make it extra safe
• 18:02 - 18:05
you tie in back up knot here.
• 18:05 - 18:07
So now i can go hands-free.
• 18:07 - 18:09
And in case my climber takes a fall
• 18:09 - 18:11
this will hold him.
• 18:11 - 18:13
And if i want to release all of that
• 18:13 - 18:16
hold the brake side of the rope,
• 18:16 - 18:19
untie the top backup knot,
• 18:19 - 18:23
and start pulling the rope
• 18:23 - 18:25
until you have a little loop left.
• 18:25 - 18:27
At this point inform your climber that
• 18:27 - 18:28
he might
• 18:28 - 18:30
feel a little bump
• 18:30 - 18:32
and tug fast.
• 18:32 - 18:34
Like so. If you do this correctly
• 18:34 - 18:36
your climber will not go down at all.
• 18:36 - 18:41
Now if you're not familiar
with slip slap slap...
• 18:41 - 18:43
this technique - good .
• 18:43 - 18:46
You can safely
ignore my next sentence.
• 18:46 - 18:48
However if you're using that technique
• 18:48 - 18:51
I would strongly advise you to reconsider.
• 18:51 - 18:53
Because in the case of the fall
• 18:53 - 18:55
your hand might get sucked
• 18:55 - 18:56
into the bellying device
• 18:56 - 18:58
faster than you might think.
• 18:58 - 19:00
So as a good rule of thumb keep
• 19:00 - 19:02
your break hand always down.
• 19:02 - 19:06
And do any hand swapping or sliding there.
• 19:06 - 19:08
So now a little disclaimer.
• 19:08 - 19:09
I'm gonna show you
• 19:09 - 19:12
three different techniques
of taking slack.
• 19:12 - 19:14
And depending on
where you are on the planet
• 19:14 - 19:15
some of them
• 19:15 - 19:18
might be not considered as acceptable.
• 19:18 - 19:19
So stick with me
• 19:19 - 19:21
I'm gonna explain.
• 19:21 - 19:23
Because i went really deep
in this rabbit hole.
• 19:23 - 19:25
So all the techniques start the same.
• 19:25 - 19:27
Your left hand reaches up
• 19:27 - 19:29
and pulls down on the rope.
• 19:29 - 19:31
While at the same time your break hand
• 19:31 - 19:33
pushes forward and locks it down.
• 19:33 - 19:35
And now at this point you need to bring
• 19:35 - 19:38
your right hand up the rope.
• 19:38 - 19:41
And there are
three different ways to do so.
• 19:41 - 19:42
The first one.
• 19:42 - 19:43
It's more popular in Europe.
• 19:43 - 19:46
And it's called hand over hand
• 19:46 - 19:47
or V to the knee.
• 19:47 - 19:50
So you simply take your left hand
• 19:50 - 19:53
and go over your right hand
• 19:53 - 19:54
and then right hand goes
• 19:54 - 19:55
over your left hand.
• 19:55 - 19:58
That's why it's called hand over hand.
• 19:58 - 20:00
So you take, .... hand over hand,
• 20:00 - 20:03
you take, ... hand over hand.
• 20:03 - 20:06
So I find myself using this technique
• 20:06 - 20:08
when the climber wants me
to take really hard
• 20:08 - 20:10
as he's moving up the rope.
• 20:10 - 20:12
Because you're always
• 20:12 - 20:14
pulling down on the rope.
• 20:14 - 20:15
You can...
• 20:15 - 20:17
It kind of feels like
• 20:17 - 20:19
climbing up the rope.
• 20:19 - 20:22
Very comfortable.
• 20:23 - 20:24
So the problem with this technique is
• 20:24 - 20:26
that when people get really good
• 20:26 - 20:29
and can do it really fast
• 20:29 - 20:32
they start letting go the brake hand
• 20:32 - 20:36
before the left hand goes
into the locking position.
• 20:36 - 20:37
So we do this.
• 20:37 - 20:40
We take this, let go already,
• 20:40 - 20:43
and then go into locking position.
• 20:43 - 20:45
If the climber would fall
• 20:45 - 20:47
in the moment where you let go this
• 20:47 - 20:50
and you don't lock the hand down
• 20:50 - 20:52
you probably know what would happen.
• 20:52 - 20:54
So obviously a simple solution -
• 20:54 - 20:55
lock,
• 20:55 - 20:57
and then in the locking position
• 20:57 - 20:58
do any hand swapping.
• 20:58 - 21:00
And another thing you need to be aware of
• 21:00 - 21:02
that sometimes if the
• 21:02 - 21:04
climber drops a bunch of slack
• 21:04 - 21:06
your belaying device falls down.
• 21:06 - 21:08
And here you need to be careful
• 21:08 - 21:09
to not take your left
• 21:09 - 21:12
hand over the belaying device.
• 21:12 - 21:14
Otherwise if you do so
• 21:14 - 21:15
and the climber falls
• 21:15 - 21:19
your hand gets into this awkward position.
• 21:19 - 21:21
So instead you reach
under your belaying device
• 21:21 - 21:23
and you grab the rope.
• 21:23 - 21:25
And now if the climber would fall
• 21:25 - 21:27
everything would be fine.
• 21:27 - 21:29
All right. Next technique is called PBUS.
• 21:29 - 21:31
Which is more commonly used in America.
• 21:31 - 21:33
Which means Pull, Break...
• 21:33 - 21:36
So basically the same stuff, as before.
• 21:36 - 21:40
But now instead of taking over the hand
• 21:40 - 21:43
you take Under and Slide.
• 21:43 - 21:46
So Pull, Brake, Under, Slide.
• 21:46 - 21:49
Pull Brake Under Slide.
• 21:49 - 21:51
So the benefit of this technique
• 21:51 - 21:54
is your strong hand never leaves the rope.
• 21:54 - 21:56
A little drawback of this technique
• 21:56 - 21:58
is when you have weight on the rope,
• 21:58 - 22:00
and you're trying to take hard,
• 22:00 - 22:03
now sliding up this hand
• 22:03 - 22:06
is not as comfortable as
• 22:06 - 22:10
in hand over hand technique.
• 22:10 - 22:11
So at some point
• 22:11 - 22:14
as you will be practicing
• 22:14 - 22:16
you will realize
• 22:16 - 22:17
that you don't actually need
• 22:17 - 22:20
to bring your left hand down there
• 22:20 - 22:22
in order to bring your break hand up.
• 22:22 - 22:25
You can simply slide it up.
• 22:25 - 22:27
And this is a third technique
• 22:27 - 22:29
which is called a tunnel technique.
• 22:29 - 22:30
And since your left hand
• 22:30 - 22:32
never leaves this rope
• 22:32 - 22:34
it's the most efficient technique.
• 22:34 - 22:36
Because you can always switch between
• 22:36 - 22:40
taking slack and giving slack instantly.
• 22:40 - 22:41
So no matter in which
• 22:41 - 22:43
moment of taking slack I am
• 22:43 - 22:45
I can always give slack.
• 22:45 - 22:48
And contrary any other technique where
• 22:48 - 22:50
my left hand leaves
• 22:50 - 22:51
now it needs to go back
• 22:51 - 22:53
in order for me to give slack
• 22:53 - 22:55
so it's an extra action.
• 22:55 - 22:57
Also tunnel technique is the best for
• 22:57 - 23:00
taking small amounts of slack.
• 23:00 - 23:03
If I would try to take
a small amount of slack
• 23:03 - 23:05
continuously with any other technique
• 23:05 - 23:10
it's a lot of hand movements.
• 23:10 - 23:13
While the tunnel technique
it's very relaxed.
• 23:13 - 23:16
And that's why it's the
most efficient technique.
• 23:16 - 23:18
However you might know
• 23:18 - 23:19
or maybe you don't
• 23:19 - 23:22
this technique is actually not considered
• 23:22 - 23:25
acceptable in some parts of the planet.
• 23:25 - 23:28
With the argument that during the moment
• 23:28 - 23:30
where you slide the hand up
• 23:30 - 23:33
you don't have a firm grip
on the brake hand.
• 23:33 - 23:35
And during the fall maybe you will
• 23:35 - 23:37
not be able to catch the fall.
• 23:37 - 23:40
To which here is my arguments.
• 23:40 - 23:41
First of all if you use
• 23:41 - 23:44
any assisted belaying device
• 23:44 - 23:46
you don't even need any
• 23:46 - 23:48
hard grip on the brake side of the rope.
• 23:48 - 23:52
Any light tug will make the device lock.
• 23:52 - 23:55
So this is not an issue immediately.
• 23:55 - 23:56
Now if you are using a tube
• 23:56 - 23:58
I actually went out
• 23:58 - 23:59
and did an experiment on this.
• 23:59 - 24:01
Where I asked inexperienced belayers
• 24:01 - 24:04
to keep moving the hand up and down
• 24:04 - 24:06
while I was distracting them
• 24:06 - 24:07
and the climber was
• 24:07 - 24:10
taking unexpected falls for them.
• 24:10 - 24:12
So stay tuned for that
• 24:12 - 24:13
it's gonna be really crazy
• 24:13 - 24:15
and really interesting episode.
• 24:15 - 24:17
But in general when sliding the hand up
• 24:17 - 24:19
don't make a big tunnel.
• 24:19 - 24:20
I don't like that this technique
• 24:20 - 24:22
is actually called a tunnel method.
• 24:22 - 24:24
It shouldn't be a tunnel.
• 24:24 - 24:27
You're barely opening the hand just
• 24:27 - 24:29
barely enough for it to slide up the rope.
• 24:29 - 24:31
And if you are a beginner
• 24:31 - 24:32
it's really good idea
• 24:32 - 24:34
to start practicing with PBUS technique.
• 24:34 - 24:39
Because you will be sliding
your hand up the rope a lot
• 24:39 - 24:42
with the backup of your other hand.
• 24:42 - 24:44
And you will learn the feeling of the
• 24:44 - 24:46
rope going through your hand.
• 24:46 - 24:48
• 24:48 - 24:49
and once you get
• 24:49 - 24:51
really comfortable with this
• 24:51 - 24:54
not bringing the left hand down and just
• 24:54 - 24:56
doing this will feel very natural.
• 24:56 - 24:58
By that point.
• 24:58 - 24:59
And just to make sure
• 24:59 - 25:01
that I'm not missing something
• 25:01 - 25:03
in regards of safety
of these three techniques
• 25:03 - 25:05
I wrote an email to about
• 25:05 - 25:08
25 different climbing safety related
• 25:08 - 25:10
organizations and associations.
• 25:10 - 25:13
to comment on these techniques.
• 25:13 - 25:15
Not all of them replied, unfortunately.
• 25:15 - 25:17
However out of those who replied
• 25:17 - 25:20
none of them said anything against of
• 25:20 - 25:22
any particular technique.
• 25:22 - 25:23
So as long as you follow the
• 25:23 - 25:26
basic guidelines of proper belaying
• 25:26 - 25:27
you will be fine.
• 25:27 - 25:28
Maybe with an exception
• 25:28 - 25:29
if you're in the US and you need
• 25:29 - 25:31
to take a delaying exam.
• 25:31 - 25:34
Then you might be forced to use the PBUS.
• 25:34 - 25:36
And few more mistakes that people do
• 25:36 - 25:38
when they're taking slack.
• 25:38 - 25:40
First of all they take the slack like this
• 25:40 - 25:44
or like this...
• 25:44 - 25:46
So unless you are using
• 25:46 - 25:47
a assisted belaying device
• 25:47 - 25:48
and you're guaranteed
• 25:48 - 25:51
that that device will lock at this angle
• 25:51 - 25:54
which I will make a separate video on that
• 25:54 - 25:56
you might be in trouble.
• 25:56 - 25:59
Second mistake is people hold
• 25:59 - 26:02
both strands of the rope
with the left hand.
• 26:02 - 26:04
They do something like this.
• 26:04 - 26:06
The reason why they do this
• 26:06 - 26:09
is to prevent the belaying device
• 26:09 - 26:10
from falling down there.
• 26:10 - 26:12
However to fix that you don't need
• 26:12 - 26:14
to hold both strands of the rope.
• 26:14 - 26:15
You can just simply
• 26:15 - 26:16
hold one strand of the rope.
• 26:16 - 26:18
And you will have
• 26:18 - 26:21
exactly the same result.
• 26:21 - 26:23
OK that's a lot of talking
• 26:23 - 26:26
I just felt that that's
the most important part.
• 26:26 - 26:28
And the rest will be much more simple.
• 26:28 - 26:32
So to give slack you simply
reverse the tunneling technique.
• 26:32 - 26:36
Where your left hand pulls up
while your right hand assists.
• 26:36 - 26:38
Then the left hand goes down.
• 26:38 - 26:40
And you slide the break hand down.
• 26:40 - 26:43
And you repeat.
• 26:44 - 26:46
And the same technique works with most
• 26:46 - 26:48
of assisted belaying devices.
• 26:48 - 26:50
While with some of assisted devices
• 26:50 - 26:52
you will need a special action.
• 26:52 - 26:54
With assisted tubers it's common
• 26:54 - 26:55
to push them up
• 26:55 - 26:58
while you're giving slack.
• 26:58 - 27:01
Now in case of the GriGri you can either
• 27:01 - 27:04
use that standard way of giving slack.
• 27:04 - 27:06
Or you can press on GriGri's cam
• 27:06 - 27:08
and pull the rope.
• 27:08 - 27:10
Just don't forget the rule number two.
• 27:10 - 27:13
The rope stays in the hand all the time.
• 27:13 - 27:16
Now in case you need to give
a lot of slack quickly.
• 27:16 - 27:19
Like if the climber is about to clip.
• 27:19 - 27:20
You take your left hand
• 27:20 - 27:22
close to belaying device
• 27:22 - 27:24
and your break hand
far from belaying device.
• 27:24 - 27:27
This is important. Only then you can give
• 27:27 - 27:29
a lot of slack quickly.
• 27:29 - 27:32
If your left hand is somewhere up
• 27:32 - 27:33
you will be limited by it
• 27:33 - 27:37
how far up you can raise this hand.
• 27:37 - 27:40
Equally if your break hand is close
• 27:40 - 27:42
you will be limited by that hand
• 27:42 - 27:43
how fast you can give slack
• 27:43 - 27:45
and then you will need to
• 27:45 - 27:46
do more actions.
• 27:46 - 27:48
So left hand close,
• 27:48 - 27:50
right hand far. Anticipate.
• 27:50 - 27:52
And you can give a lot of slack quickly.
• 27:52 - 27:53
And if things go wrong
• 27:53 - 27:56
you can take all of
that slack quickly back.
• 27:56 - 27:57
Now when you need to lower the climber
• 27:57 - 27:59
you take both of the hands
• 27:59 - 28:00
on the brake side of the rope.
• 28:00 - 28:02
And you use one hand
• 28:02 - 28:05
to feed the rope to the other hand.
• 28:05 - 28:08
That's one way or if you're comfortable
• 28:08 - 28:12
you can let the rope slide
through both of your hands.
• 28:12 - 28:15
The risk here is however
if you go too fast
• 28:15 - 28:18
the rope will go so fast
• 28:18 - 28:19
through both of your hands
• 28:19 - 28:21
that it can burn both of them.
• 28:21 - 28:23
And then you will probably
• 28:23 - 28:25
So simply don't go fast.
• 28:25 - 28:28
There is absolutely no point
of lowering a climber fast.
• 28:28 - 28:30
There is nothing cool about that.
• 28:30 - 28:32
It heats your equipment way more,
• 28:32 - 28:34
wears down your equipment, it's expensive.
• 28:34 - 28:36
And go in a controlled manner.
• 28:36 - 28:39
And if you're not sure you can always
• 28:39 - 28:40
feed the rope like so.
• 28:40 - 28:44
And in case your climber takes a fall
• 28:44 - 28:47
just hold on the brake side of the rope
• 28:47 - 28:49
even if you have number two in your pants.
• 28:49 - 28:51
Hold it. Never let go.
• 28:51 - 28:55
And as soon as your climber
will regain the ground
• 28:55 - 28:58
and unload the rope
most of the belaying devices
• 28:58 - 28:59
will unlock themselves.
• 28:59 - 29:02
And you're ready to continue belaying.
• 29:02 - 29:05
While with some devices like Click Up
• 29:05 - 29:08
once it locks you need a special action
• 29:08 - 29:10
to unlock it to continue belaying.
• 29:10 - 29:11
So as i already said
• 29:11 - 29:13
it's a good idea to look into the manual
• 29:13 - 29:14
of your belaying device
• 29:14 - 29:18
to know all these little nuances
that there might be.
• 29:18 - 29:20
Now if you are teaching beginners
• 29:20 - 29:22
or you are a beginner yourself
• 29:22 - 29:24
practice using belaying device
• 29:24 - 29:27
on the ground, without a climber.
• 29:27 - 29:29
And only once you're
completely comfortable
• 29:29 - 29:32
and you're ready to go
and actually belay somebody
• 29:32 - 29:34
then make sure to have somebody
• 29:34 - 29:36
experienced backing up,
• 29:36 - 29:38
holding on the break side of the rope,
• 29:38 - 29:42
and giving you guidance,
assistance on your technique.
• 29:42 - 29:44
This is really important.
• 29:44 - 29:46
I actually once saved a climber
• 29:46 - 29:49
when inexperienced belayer
was using a GriGri
• 29:49 - 29:52
I was backing up the rope.
• 29:52 - 29:54
And actually I was the one
who caught the fall.
• 29:54 - 29:56
And the full story
• 29:56 - 29:57
if you're interested is
• 29:57 - 29:59
in this video about GriGri.
• 29:59 - 30:00
And of course don't take this video
• 30:00 - 30:02
as a complete guide into belaying.
• 30:02 - 30:04
There is way more things you need to know.
• 30:04 - 30:06
From proper slack management
• 30:06 - 30:10
to soft catches, to belayer movement,
• 30:10 - 30:12
to good communication with your climber.
• 30:12 - 30:18
And all of that is coming in the
future episodes of belay master class.
• 30:18 - 30:21
That's a lot of effort to make
these videos to be honest.
• 30:21 - 30:22
And this video was
• 30:22 - 30:24
brought to you by Mammut
• 30:24 - 30:26
and by all the people
• 30:26 - 30:27
who are supporting me
• 30:27 - 30:29
by visiting my website.
• 30:29 - 30:32
So huge thank you for everyone.
• 30:32 - 30:37
And see you in the next episode.
Title:
Complete Guide into Belay Devices - Differences and Efficient Usage | Ep.6
Description:

more » « less
Video Language:
English
Team:
Hard Is Easy
Project:
Belay Masterclass
Duration:
30:35
 Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Complete Guide into Belay Devices - Differences and Efficient Usage | Ep.6 Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Complete Guide into Belay Devices - Differences and Efficient Usage | Ep.6 Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Complete Guide into Belay Devices - Differences and Efficient Usage | Ep.6 Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Complete Guide into Belay Devices - Differences and Efficient Usage | Ep.6 Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Complete Guide into Belay Devices - Differences and Efficient Usage | Ep.6 Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Complete Guide into Belay Devices - Differences and Efficient Usage | Ep.6 Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Complete Guide into Belay Devices - Differences and Efficient Usage | Ep.6 Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Complete Guide into Belay Devices - Differences and Efficient Usage | Ep.6

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