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Complete Guide into Belay Devices - Differences and Efficient Usage | Ep.6

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    Belaying devices.
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    There are so many different
    belaying devices
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    nowadays on the market and in my hands.
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    And after this video you will be able
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    to pick any of them.
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    Not from my hands.
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    And you will know how it works
    and how to use it.
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    So first of all, a belaying device
    is simply a mechanism
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    which allows to control
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    the friction between your hand
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    and the climber.
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    Alright.
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    So here I hang and here I have almost
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    60 kilograms of force pulling
    on this strand of the rope.
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    However for me to hold that
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    I'm only using about 6 to 7
    kilograms of force
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    on the brake side of the rope.
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    However if I would start raising
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    my brake hand up
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    the force needed to hold that
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    goes to 9 kilograms of force...
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    10...
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    12...
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    15...
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    So my max was around 25 kilograms of force
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    with two hands in this position.
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    That means that in this position
    at this angle
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    I can not even hold my own weight
    with two hands.
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    There is no even talking about one hand.
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    So now let's see how much
    assistance I will get
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    if my rope strands are completely
    parallel to each other.
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    So I will start pulling up
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    as hard as i can.
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    And so the answer is almost nothing.
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    Now to explain how that works
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    since there is so many
    different belaying devices
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    I'm gonna group all of them
    into different categories.
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    First one is tubular style devices.
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    That many mistakenly call them reverso.
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    Which is only this device -
    Petzl Reverso.
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    Or ATC which is this Black Diamond ATC.
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    While Mammut calls this
    Alpine Belaying Device. Simple.
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    So with tubes the more
    I move my brake hand down
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    the more it squeezes the rope between
    the carabiner and belaying device.
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    And also tubes have
    a little groove in front of them.
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    Which even further pinches on the rope.
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    Plus as I pull down on the rope
    it tilts the device
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    which creates extra angles
    and extra friction.
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    So as we saw in my previous experiment
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    if my hand is at the
    level of the belaying device or higher
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    the device creates very little friction.
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    So if the climber would fall
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    while my hand is
    in this position or higher
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    there is a high chance
    that my hand would simply
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    get sucked into the belaying device.
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    I got my hand pinched...
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    And then maybe i will hurt my hand
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    And let go off the rope.
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    So if you want to see how my hand is
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    getting sucked into belaying device
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    I already made a video about that.
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    Also worth mentioning is that
    rope thickness or diameter
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    has a huge effect on how easily
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    the rope will go through belaying device.
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    And every belaying device has a
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    recommended range of rope thicknesses
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    which you can find
    somewhere in the manuals
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    or sometimes on the device itself.
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    And this brings us to advantages
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    of tubular style devices.
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    First of all they work better with
    wider range of rope diameters.
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    All the way from super thick gym ropes
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    to ultra skinny twin ropes.
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    On contrast if you would take a GriGri
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    it says that it's optimized to work
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    from 8.9 to 10.5 millimeters ropes.
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    But from my experience
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    anything from 10 millimeters and above
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    doesn't work that well anymore.
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    Yeah, there is this older GriGri
    which works better with thicker ropes.
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    But that one doesn't work well
    with thin ropes.
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    Next, tubes are super lightweight.
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    And they allow you to belay with two ropes
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    either double ropes or twin ropes.
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    And if you don't know
    what's a double or twin rope
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    you should watch
    my master class on the ropes.
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    Also with tubes you can make a soft catch
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    without moving yourself.
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    By allowing the rope
    to slip through the device.
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    And in general tubes don't catch as hard
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    because there is always
    a little bit of slippage
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    which reduces the peak forces.
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    Which might be very beneficial
    for trad climbers.
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    Since it reduces the chance
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    that the pieces of the gear will fall out.
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    And finally tubes have
    this loop at the top.
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    And that allows you
    to set this device in a guide mode
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    in which you can even belay
    two following climbers
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    coming up on top rope simultaneously
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    simon... simultaneously.
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    and all of that are the reasons
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    why tubes are still very commonly used
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    in traditional or alpine
    or multi-pitch scenarios.
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    However none of that is really useful
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    if you're just doing
    single pitch sport climbing.
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    And the biggest disadvantage of tubes
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    is of course that they don't lock
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    meaning if you would let go the rope.
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    Which by the way brings us
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    to the main rule of belaying.
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    If you are in need of number two
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    and you have a choice to poop your pants
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    or to let go the brake side of the rope -
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    you poop your pants!
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    Meaning in no circumstances
    you're allowed to lose control
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    of the brake side of the rope.
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    And that's by the way also equally true
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    for assisted building devices
    but we are gonna talk next.
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    So assisted devices
    have an ability to lock
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    in case the climber falls.
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    Which obviously adds a lot of safety.
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    For example if you would
    knock a rock while you're climbing
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    and that rock would
    fall on your belayer's head...
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    And that's why we wear a helmet!
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    So first of all your belayer would
    really like to have a helmet.
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    But you as a climber
    would really love that
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    there would be one of these
    assisted devices down there.
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    And in fact my own skin
    was once saved by this guy.
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    When I did a little fall
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    and my belayer did not notice
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    that there was a rock next to her leg.
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    And while she was flying forward,
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    her leg got stuck, and she spun around,
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    and hit her back to the wall.
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    And let both of the hands go.
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    So this guy is basically a reason why
    I'm still here.
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    And making these videos.
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    Now super important that number two rule
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    is also applicable for these guys.
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    After all they are called assisted
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    so don't treat them as fully automatic.
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    Because there are cases
    where they will not lock.
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    Apart from safety this locking is also
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    super useful in long belays
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    If your climber is hanging
    on the rope a lot
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    and projecting some hard moves.
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    So if we compare this to the tube
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    even in the most mechanically
    advantaged position
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    you will still need to hold on the rope.
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    And in very long belays
    this will get tiring.
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    While with assisted devices
    it's pretty chill.
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    You are literally just
    sitting in your harness.
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    OK, so the first group of
    assisted belaying devices
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    is called assisted tubers.
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    That's because they look like tubes
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    and they work similarly to regular tubes
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    where we squeeze the rope
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    between the carabiner and the device.
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    Except that they have a shape
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    that shifts the carabiner in position
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    where it squeezes on the rope so hard
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    that it completely locks it off.
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    A little disadvantage of assisted tubes
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    is that once in locked position
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    you cannot quickly
    feed slack to the climber.
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    You need a special action
    to unlock the device
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    before you can feed the rope
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    For example with Click Up
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    it even clicks
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    and now I cannot do anything.
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    I literally need to unclick it.
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    And now I can continue belaying.
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    Now one really important thing
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    that not many know about assisted tubers
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    That they suffer from the same problem
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    as regular tubes
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    meaning that
    if your hand is in up position
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    the device will not lock.
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    As you can see it's not locking
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    And if the climber would take a fall
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    the rope would just slide from my hand
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    and burn it. Oh, it's already burning.
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    However unlike regular tubes
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    Where you can get your hands sucked
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    even at very big angles
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    most assisted tubers
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    will only fail at the angles
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    that are very extremely high up.
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    And some actually don't fail at all.
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    I'm actually gonna make a separate video
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    where I was experimenting
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    at which angles which devices lock.
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    So stay tuned for that I can't put
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    everything into one video because i need
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    you to subscribe
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    but independently of which belaying
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    device you're using just develop a habit
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    of keeping your bray hand down also good
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    to know for people who climb with two
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    ropes is that there are assisted tubers
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    that work with two ropes in case you go
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    on a multi-pitch and you want extra
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    safety you have some options all right
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    let's move on to cam assisted devices
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    i'm sure everybody knows grigri but
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    there are more devices like trango virgo
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    and birdie and others and the way they
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    work is that they have a camming
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    mechanism inside which pinches on the
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    rope now in the case of grigri the cam
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    is spring-loaded meaning that as soon as
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    there is no more load on the climber's
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    end of the rope the cam will disengage
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    and you can delay normally while in the
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    case of virgo it doesn't have a spring
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    and you need to position the device in a
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    certain way
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    to be able to feed the slag all right
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    back to grigri if you press on grigri
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    scam but you ignore the rule number two
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    and you don't hold
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    the break side of the rope this can
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    happen
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    also if you ignore rule number two
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    and your grigri gets trapped in the
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    first
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    piece of gear
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    this can happen
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    many of you asked
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    if this problem of trapping in the first
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    bolt where it disengages the cam is also
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    applicable for assisted tubers so with
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    most assisted devices the answer is
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    unlikely
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    since there is no cam that i could press
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    to disengage this locking
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    only if i would press on this end
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    it kind of slips a bit but still
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    stays locked
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    this
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    click
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    doesn't even lock if i don't hold the
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    rope
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    amazing number two rule all the rope
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    yeah
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    there's no way i can unlock this
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    in this manner
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    so no assisted tubers don't have this
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    risk now this is a little future me
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    after i was editing this part that you
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    just seen and i saw this i realized that
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    i was using a wrong carabiner turns out
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    click ups need their own specific
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    carabiners and that's a reason why you
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    should read the manual so
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    that's the carabiner you should use for
  • 12:12 - 12:15
    a click up let's see if it locks
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    no difference
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    so number two rule
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    and read the manual because some of the
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    assisted delaying devices require you a
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    specific belaying carabiner i don't know
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    if it's just marketing or the shape of
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    the carabiner is slightly different just
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    use what the manufacturers recommend and
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    finally there is this guy it's a rivo
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    from wild country
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    it's an inertia based mechanism which
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    will lock once the climber starts
  • 12:47 - 12:49
    falling faster than four meters per
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    second so if i pull slowly it doesn't
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    lock i need to pull really fast in order
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    for it to lock
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    so my goal of this video is not to
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    compare all of the delaying devices on
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    the market and tell you which one to buy
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    sorry for that every device have its own
  • 13:06 - 13:09
    pros and cons haters and lovers full
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    internet of that however if you would
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    want such comparison let me know in the
  • 13:14 - 13:16
    comments and maybe i will make a
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    separate video on that okay now i have a
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    tip for you that will make your life a
  • 13:20 - 13:23
    little bit easier and maybe will even
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    save your ass on a multi-pitch one day
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    humans
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    we have two hands normally and handling
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    more than two objects in two hands
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    is not ideal what i often see that
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    people take their playing device their
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    carabiner the rope that's already three
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    objects by the way and they try to
  • 13:41 - 13:43
    connect everything
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    in space
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    like so
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    ready to delay so doing this will
  • 13:52 - 13:54
    greatly increase the chance that one day
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    you will drop something you will be
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    trying to connect something and then
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    suddenly whoops
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    your billing device flies down if you're
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    not on a multi-pitch if you're standing
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    on the ground that's not a big deal
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    however if you drop your billing device
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    on a multi-pitch
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    you are in big trouble so this is what
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    you do to avoid that normally your blade
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    device will live with your carabiner
  • 14:16 - 14:18
    somewhere on the harness
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    so step one you take
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    both of them together as one unit so i'm
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    carrying only one unit and you
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    immediately connect it to the laying
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    loop
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    so you cannot drop anything right now
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    everything is safe step two you take a
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    bite of rope and you insert into your
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    blank device
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    keep in mind of the orientation of the
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    rope which end has to go to the climber
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    which end is your break hand if you're
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    not sure every blank device has an image
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    on the side of it which will remind you
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    that and next
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    open your carabiner and hook your rope
  • 14:55 - 14:56
    together
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    with the belaying device
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    so at no point there was a chance of for
  • 15:01 - 15:03
    me to drop anything and once you're done
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    playing you simply reverse the process
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    where you open the carabiner you unhook
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    the rope but you hook the belaying
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    device and then you simply can just pull
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    out the rope and your belaying device
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    stays on your harness with the carabiner
  • 15:16 - 15:18
    if you want to put it somewhere else you
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    put it somewhere else and the same works
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    with assisted tubers so step one connect
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    your
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    blank device to your harness take a bite
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    of rope put that bite of rope into the
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    laying device
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    open the carabiner and hook the rope and
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    playing device together
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    now in case of the grigri it's slightly
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    different so as always step one clip
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    your blank device to your belay loop so
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    you cannot drop anything now if you're
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    not on a multi-pitch and dropping your
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    grigri is not a big deal you simply take
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    off your grigri open it in this cool way
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    insert the rope and flip it back simple
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    now if you are on a multi-pitch
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    there is a technique so this is what you
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    do you open your carabiner
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    and hook only half of the degree
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    together then you can open the grigri
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    and it's connected to your carabiner you
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    cannot drop it you insert the rope you
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    close it
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    and then you open your carabiner again
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    and hook the grigri back
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    so this is as safe as you can do with
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    the grigri on a multi page and obviously
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    once you're done it's just simply
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    reversing the process of
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    doing
  • 16:35 - 16:38
    this and doing that
  • 16:38 - 16:40
    okay so i hope that by now i gave you
  • 16:40 - 16:43
    enough examples how not to use belaying
  • 16:43 - 16:45
    devices and now i'm gonna show you
  • 16:45 - 16:48
    proper techniques the good part is that
  • 16:48 - 16:51
    no matter what blank device you use good
  • 16:51 - 16:53
    belaying techniques don't change there
  • 16:53 - 16:55
    are slight differences that i'm gonna
  • 16:55 - 16:57
    mention but for majority it's the same
  • 16:57 - 16:58
    all right
  • 16:58 - 17:01
    so i hope that by now number two rule is
  • 17:01 - 17:04
    strongly embedded into you however if
  • 17:04 - 17:06
    for some reason you really need to go
  • 17:06 - 17:10
    hands-free you can tie a backup knot
  • 17:10 - 17:12
    at your brake and like so
  • 17:12 - 17:15
    and this is totally fine
  • 17:15 - 17:17
    in case something happens and the rope
  • 17:17 - 17:18
    would slip all the way
  • 17:18 - 17:20
    the grigri will lock
  • 17:20 - 17:22
    however in the case of tube it's
  • 17:22 - 17:24
    slightly different if you would just
  • 17:24 - 17:25
    simply
  • 17:25 - 17:27
    tie a knot here
  • 17:27 - 17:29
    and the climber would fall there is a
  • 17:29 - 17:31
    chance that this knot will get
  • 17:31 - 17:34
    jammed in your blank device so hard that
  • 17:34 - 17:37
    you will have trouble to
  • 17:37 - 17:39
    unjam it let's use a slightly different
  • 17:39 - 17:41
    carabiner so it's easier for you to see
  • 17:41 - 17:43
    what's happening so
  • 17:43 - 17:45
    in the case of tube you take a bite of
  • 17:45 - 17:48
    rope and then you take another bite of
  • 17:48 - 17:51
    rope and put through the first one
  • 17:51 - 17:53
    and you make it tight
  • 17:53 - 17:54
    and make sure that this loop is long
  • 17:54 - 17:56
    enough
  • 17:56 - 17:57
    like so
  • 17:57 - 18:00
    this will hold but this is not enough to
  • 18:00 - 18:01
    make it
  • 18:01 - 18:04
    extra safe you tie in
  • 18:04 - 18:06
    back up knot here so now i can go
  • 18:06 - 18:09
    hands-free and in case my climber takes
  • 18:09 - 18:11
    a fall this will hold him and if i want
  • 18:11 - 18:13
    to release all of that
  • 18:13 - 18:16
    hold the brake side of the rope
  • 18:16 - 18:18
    and tie the top
  • 18:18 - 18:19
    back up knot
  • 18:19 - 18:23
    and start pulling the rope
  • 18:23 - 18:25
    until you have a little loop left
  • 18:25 - 18:27
    at this point inform your climber that
  • 18:27 - 18:28
    he might
  • 18:28 - 18:30
    feel a little bump
  • 18:30 - 18:31
    and tug
  • 18:31 - 18:32
    fast
  • 18:32 - 18:34
    like so if you do this correctly your
  • 18:34 - 18:37
    climber will not go down at all now if
  • 18:37 - 18:41
    you're not familiar with slip slap slap
  • 18:41 - 18:41
    this
  • 18:41 - 18:43
    technique
  • 18:43 - 18:45
    good you can safely ignore my next
  • 18:45 - 18:48
    sentence however if you're using that
  • 18:48 - 18:50
    technique i would strongly advise you to
  • 18:50 - 18:53
    reconsider because in the case of the
  • 18:53 - 18:55
    fall your hand might get sucked into the
  • 18:55 - 18:57
    bellying device faster than you might
  • 18:57 - 19:00
    think so as a good rule of thumb keep
  • 19:00 - 19:03
    your break hand always down and do any
  • 19:03 - 19:07
    hand swapping or sliding there so now a
  • 19:07 - 19:09
    little disclaimer i'm gonna show you
  • 19:09 - 19:11
    three different techniques of taking
  • 19:11 - 19:13
    slack and depending on where you are on
  • 19:13 - 19:16
    the planet some of them might be not
  • 19:16 - 19:19
    considered as acceptable so stick with
  • 19:19 - 19:22
    me i'm gonna explain because i went
  • 19:22 - 19:24
    really deep in this rabbit hole so all
  • 19:24 - 19:26
    the techniques start the same your left
  • 19:26 - 19:28
    hand reaches up and pulls down on the
  • 19:28 - 19:30
    rope while at the same time your break
  • 19:30 - 19:33
    hand pushes forward and locks it down
  • 19:33 - 19:35
    and now at this point you need to bring
  • 19:35 - 19:37
    your right hand
  • 19:37 - 19:39
    up the rope and there are three
  • 19:39 - 19:42
    different ways to do so the first one
  • 19:42 - 19:43
    it's more popular in europe and it's
  • 19:43 - 19:47
    called hand over hand or v to the knee
  • 19:47 - 19:50
    so you simply take your left hand and go
  • 19:50 - 19:51
    over
  • 19:51 - 19:54
    your right hand and then right hand goes
  • 19:54 - 19:55
    over your left hand that's why it's
  • 19:55 - 19:59
    called hand over hand so you take
  • 19:59 - 20:02
    hand over hand you take
  • 20:02 - 20:05
    hand over hand so i find myself using
  • 20:05 - 20:07
    this technique when the climber wants me
  • 20:07 - 20:09
    to take really hard as he's moving up
  • 20:09 - 20:12
    the rope because you're always pulling
  • 20:12 - 20:15
    down on the rope you can
  • 20:15 - 20:18
    it kind of feels like climbing up the
  • 20:18 - 20:19
    rope
  • 20:19 - 20:22
    very comfortable
  • 20:23 - 20:24
    so the problem with this technique is
  • 20:24 - 20:27
    that when people get really good and can
  • 20:27 - 20:29
    do it really fast
  • 20:29 - 20:32
    they start letting go the brig and
  • 20:32 - 20:35
    before the left hand goes into the
  • 20:35 - 20:38
    locking position so we do this we take
  • 20:38 - 20:40
    this let go already
  • 20:40 - 20:43
    and then go into locking position if the
  • 20:43 - 20:46
    climber would fall in the moment where
  • 20:46 - 20:49
    you let go this and you don't lock the
  • 20:49 - 20:52
    hand down you probably know what would
  • 20:52 - 20:54
    happen so obviously a simple solution
  • 20:54 - 20:55
    lock
  • 20:55 - 20:58
    and then in the locking position do any
  • 20:58 - 21:00
    hand swapping and another thing you need
  • 21:00 - 21:02
    to be aware of that sometimes if the
  • 21:02 - 21:04
    climber drops a bunch of slack your
  • 21:04 - 21:06
    blank device falls down and here you
  • 21:06 - 21:09
    need to be careful to not take your left
  • 21:09 - 21:13
    hand over the belaying device otherwise
  • 21:13 - 21:16
    if you do so and the climber falls your
  • 21:16 - 21:16
    hand
  • 21:16 - 21:19
    gets into this awkward position so
  • 21:19 - 21:21
    instead you reach under your blank
  • 21:21 - 21:24
    device and you grab the rope and now if
  • 21:24 - 21:26
    the climber would fall everything would
  • 21:26 - 21:28
    be fine all right next technique is
  • 21:28 - 21:30
    called p-bus which is more commonly used
  • 21:30 - 21:34
    in america which means pull break so
  • 21:34 - 21:36
    basically the same stuff as before
  • 21:36 - 21:40
    but now instead of taking over the hand
  • 21:40 - 21:42
    you take under
  • 21:42 - 21:46
    and slide so pull brake under slide
  • 21:46 - 21:48
    pull brake
  • 21:48 - 21:50
    under slide so the benefit of this
  • 21:50 - 21:53
    technique is your strong hand never
  • 21:53 - 21:55
    leaves the rope a little drawback of
  • 21:55 - 21:57
    this technique is when you have weight
  • 21:57 - 21:59
    on the rope and you're trying to take
  • 21:59 - 22:00
    hard
  • 22:00 - 22:03
    now sliding up this hand
  • 22:03 - 22:06
    is not as comfortable as in
  • 22:06 - 22:10
    hand over hand technique
  • 22:10 - 22:12
    so at some point as you will be
  • 22:12 - 22:15
    practicing your p-bus technique you will
  • 22:15 - 22:18
    realize that you don't actually need to
  • 22:18 - 22:20
    bring your left hand down there in order
  • 22:20 - 22:23
    to bring your big hand up you can simply
  • 22:23 - 22:25
    slide it up
  • 22:25 - 22:27
    and this is a third technique which is
  • 22:27 - 22:30
    called a tunnel technique and since your
  • 22:30 - 22:32
    left hand never leaves this rope
  • 22:32 - 22:34
    it's the most efficient technique
  • 22:34 - 22:36
    because you can always switch between
  • 22:36 - 22:40
    taking slack and giving slack instantly
  • 22:40 - 22:43
    so no matter in which moment of taking
  • 22:43 - 22:45
    slack i am i can always give slack
  • 22:45 - 22:48
    and contrary any other technique where
  • 22:48 - 22:50
    my left hand leaves
  • 22:50 - 22:52
    now it needs to go back in order for me
  • 22:52 - 22:55
    to give slack so it's an extra action
  • 22:55 - 22:57
    also tunnel technique is the best for
  • 22:57 - 23:00
    taking small amounts of slack
  • 23:00 - 23:02
    if i would try to take a small amount of
  • 23:02 - 23:04
    slack continuously with any other
  • 23:04 - 23:07
    technique it's
  • 23:07 - 23:08
    a lot of hand
  • 23:08 - 23:10
    movements
  • 23:10 - 23:12
    while the tunnel technique it's very
  • 23:12 - 23:13
    relaxed
  • 23:13 - 23:16
    and that's why it's the most efficient
  • 23:16 - 23:18
    technique however you might know or
  • 23:18 - 23:20
    maybe you don't this technique is
  • 23:20 - 23:23
    actually not considered acceptable in
  • 23:23 - 23:25
    some parts of the planet
  • 23:25 - 23:28
    with the argument that during the moment
  • 23:28 - 23:30
    where you slide the hand up
  • 23:30 - 23:32
    you don't have a firm grip on the brake
  • 23:32 - 23:35
    hand and during the fall maybe you will
  • 23:35 - 23:37
    not be able to catch the fall to which
  • 23:37 - 23:40
    here is my arguments
  • 23:40 - 23:42
    first of all if you use any assisted
  • 23:42 - 23:46
    belaying device you don't even need any
  • 23:46 - 23:48
    hard grip on the brake side of the rope
  • 23:48 - 23:52
    any light tug will make the device lock
  • 23:52 - 23:55
    so this is not an issue immediately now
  • 23:55 - 23:57
    if you are using a tube i actually went
  • 23:57 - 23:59
    out and did an experiment on this where
  • 23:59 - 24:02
    i asked inexperienced belayers to keep
  • 24:02 - 24:05
    moving the hand up and down while i was
  • 24:05 - 24:07
    distracting them and the climber was
  • 24:07 - 24:10
    taking unexpected falls for them
  • 24:10 - 24:12
    so stay tuned for that it's gonna be
  • 24:12 - 24:14
    really crazy and really interesting
  • 24:14 - 24:17
    episode but in general when sliding the
  • 24:17 - 24:19
    hand up don't make a big tunnel i don't
  • 24:19 - 24:21
    like that this technique is actually
  • 24:21 - 24:22
    called a tunnel method
  • 24:22 - 24:25
    it shouldn't be a tunnel you're barely
  • 24:25 - 24:28
    opening the hand just barely enough for
  • 24:28 - 24:30
    it to slide up the rope and if you are a
  • 24:30 - 24:33
    beginner it's really good idea to start
  • 24:33 - 24:35
    practicing with pbus technique because
  • 24:35 - 24:38
    you will be sliding your hand up the
  • 24:38 - 24:39
    rope a lot
  • 24:39 - 24:42
    with the backup of your other hand
  • 24:42 - 24:44
    and you will learn the feeling of the
  • 24:44 - 24:47
    rope going through your hand so start
  • 24:47 - 24:49
    with this and once you get really
  • 24:49 - 24:51
    comfortable with this
  • 24:51 - 24:54
    not bringing the left hand down and just
  • 24:54 - 24:56
    doing this will feel very natural by
  • 24:56 - 24:58
    that point
  • 24:58 - 25:00
    and just to make sure that i'm not
  • 25:00 - 25:02
    missing something in regards of safety
  • 25:02 - 25:04
    of these three techniques i wrote an
  • 25:04 - 25:07
    email to about 25 different climbing
  • 25:07 - 25:09
    safety related organizations and
  • 25:09 - 25:11
    associations and asked them to comment
  • 25:11 - 25:13
    on these techniques not all of them
  • 25:13 - 25:16
    replied unfortunately however out of
  • 25:16 - 25:18
    those who replied none of them said
  • 25:18 - 25:21
    anything against of any particular
  • 25:21 - 25:23
    technique so as long as you follow the
  • 25:23 - 25:26
    basic guidelines of proper belaying you
  • 25:26 - 25:28
    will be fine maybe with an exception if
  • 25:28 - 25:29
    you're in the united states and you need
  • 25:29 - 25:32
    to take a delaying exam then you might
  • 25:32 - 25:35
    be forced to use the pibas and few more
  • 25:35 - 25:37
    mistakes that people do when they're
  • 25:37 - 25:39
    taking slack first of all they take the
  • 25:39 - 25:44
    slack like this or like this
  • 25:44 - 25:46
    so unless you are using a assisted
  • 25:46 - 25:48
    building device and you're guaranteed
  • 25:48 - 25:51
    that that device will lock at this angle
  • 25:51 - 25:53
    which i will make a separate video on
  • 25:53 - 25:56
    that you might be in trouble second
  • 25:56 - 25:59
    mistake is people hold
  • 25:59 - 26:01
    both strands of the rope with the left
  • 26:01 - 26:04
    hand they do something like this
  • 26:04 - 26:07
    the reason why they do this is to
  • 26:07 - 26:09
    prevent the belaying device from falling
  • 26:09 - 26:12
    down there however to fix that you don't
  • 26:12 - 26:14
    need to hold both strands of the rope
  • 26:14 - 26:16
    you can just simply hold one strand of
  • 26:16 - 26:18
    the rope and you will have
  • 26:18 - 26:21
    exactly the same result
  • 26:21 - 26:22
    okay that's a lot of talking about
  • 26:22 - 26:25
    taking slack i just felt that that's the
  • 26:25 - 26:27
    most important part and the rest will be
  • 26:27 - 26:30
    much more simple so to give slack you
  • 26:30 - 26:32
    simply reverse the tunneling technique
  • 26:32 - 26:34
    where your left hand pulls up while your
  • 26:34 - 26:37
    right hand assists then the left hand
  • 26:37 - 26:40
    goes down and you slide the break hand
  • 26:40 - 26:43
    down and you repeat
  • 26:44 - 26:46
    and the same technique works with most
  • 26:46 - 26:49
    of assisted delaying devices while with
  • 26:49 - 26:51
    some of assisted devices you will need a
  • 26:51 - 26:54
    special action with assisted tubers it's
  • 26:54 - 26:56
    common to push them up while you're
  • 26:56 - 26:58
    giving slack
  • 26:58 - 27:01
    now in case of the grigri you can either
  • 27:01 - 27:04
    use that standard way of giving slack or
  • 27:04 - 27:06
    you can press and greek this cam and
  • 27:06 - 27:08
    pull the rope
  • 27:08 - 27:10
    just don't forget the rule number two
  • 27:10 - 27:13
    the rope stays in the hand all the time
  • 27:13 - 27:15
    now in case you need to give a lot of
  • 27:15 - 27:18
    slack quickly like if the climber is
  • 27:18 - 27:20
    about to clip you take your left hand
  • 27:20 - 27:22
    close to the laying device and your
  • 27:22 - 27:24
    break hand far from the laying device
  • 27:24 - 27:27
    this is important only then you can give
  • 27:27 - 27:29
    a lot of slack quickly
  • 27:29 - 27:32
    if your left hand is somewhere up you
  • 27:32 - 27:36
    will be limited by it how far up you can
  • 27:36 - 27:39
    raise this hand equally if your brick
  • 27:39 - 27:41
    hand is close you will be limited by
  • 27:41 - 27:43
    that hand how fast you can give slack
  • 27:43 - 27:45
    and then you will need to
  • 27:45 - 27:48
    do more actions so left hand close right
  • 27:48 - 27:51
    hand far anticipate and you can give a
  • 27:51 - 27:53
    lot of slack quickly and if things go
  • 27:53 - 27:55
    wrong you can take all of that slack
  • 27:55 - 27:57
    quickly back now when you need to lower
  • 27:57 - 27:59
    the climber you take both of the hands
  • 27:59 - 28:01
    on the brake side of the rope and you
  • 28:01 - 28:04
    use one hand to feed the rope to the
  • 28:04 - 28:05
    other hand
  • 28:05 - 28:08
    that's one way or if you're comfortable
  • 28:08 - 28:10
    you can let the rope slide through both
  • 28:10 - 28:12
    of your hands
  • 28:12 - 28:15
    the risk here is however if you go too
  • 28:15 - 28:18
    fast the rope will go so fast through
  • 28:18 - 28:20
    both of your hands that it can burn both
  • 28:20 - 28:22
    of them and then you will probably drop
  • 28:22 - 28:25
    your climber so simply don't go fast
  • 28:25 - 28:27
    there is absolutely no point of lowering
  • 28:27 - 28:29
    a climber fast there is nothing cool
  • 28:29 - 28:32
    about that it heats your equipment way
  • 28:32 - 28:34
    more wears down your equipment it's
  • 28:34 - 28:36
    expensive and go in a controlled manner
  • 28:36 - 28:39
    and if you're not sure you can always
  • 28:39 - 28:41
    feed the rope like so and in case your
  • 28:41 - 28:44
    climber takes a fall
  • 28:44 - 28:47
    just hold on the brake side of the rope
  • 28:47 - 28:49
    even if you have number two in your
  • 28:49 - 28:52
    pants hold it never let go and as soon
  • 28:52 - 28:55
    as your climber will regain the ground
  • 28:55 - 28:57
    and unload the rope most of the blank
  • 28:57 - 28:59
    devices will unlock themselves and
  • 28:59 - 29:02
    you're ready to continue delaying while
  • 29:02 - 29:05
    with some devices like click up
  • 29:05 - 29:08
    once it locks you need a special action
  • 29:08 - 29:11
    to unlock it to continue blaming so as i
  • 29:11 - 29:12
    already said it's a good idea to look
  • 29:12 - 29:14
    into the manual of your blank device to
  • 29:14 - 29:17
    know all these little nuances that there
  • 29:17 - 29:20
    might be now if you are teaching
  • 29:20 - 29:22
    beginners or you are a beginner yourself
  • 29:22 - 29:24
    practice using belaying device on the
  • 29:24 - 29:28
    ground without a climber and only once
  • 29:28 - 29:30
    you're completely comfortable and you're
  • 29:30 - 29:32
    ready to go and actually play somebody
  • 29:32 - 29:34
    then make sure to have somebody
  • 29:34 - 29:37
    experienced backing up holding on the
  • 29:37 - 29:39
    break side of the rope and giving you
  • 29:39 - 29:42
    guidance assistance on your technique
  • 29:42 - 29:45
    this is really important i actually once
  • 29:45 - 29:47
    saved a climber when inexperienced
  • 29:47 - 29:50
    belayer was using a grigri i was backing
  • 29:50 - 29:52
    up the rope
  • 29:52 - 29:54
    and actually i was the one who caught
  • 29:54 - 29:56
    the fall and the full story if you're
  • 29:56 - 29:59
    interested is in this video about grigri
  • 29:59 - 30:01
    and of course don't take this video as a
  • 30:01 - 30:03
    complete guide into delaying there is
  • 30:03 - 30:05
    way more things you need to know from
  • 30:05 - 30:08
    proper slack management to soft catches
  • 30:08 - 30:10
    to belayer movement to good
  • 30:10 - 30:12
    communication with your climber and all
  • 30:12 - 30:15
    of that is coming in the future episodes
  • 30:15 - 30:18
    of belay master class
  • 30:18 - 30:20
    that's a lot of effort to make these
  • 30:20 - 30:22
    videos to be honest and this video was
  • 30:22 - 30:24
    brought to you by mamut
  • 30:24 - 30:27
    and by all the people who are supporting
  • 30:27 - 30:30
    me by visiting my website so huge thank
  • 30:30 - 30:34
    you for everyone and see you in the next
  • 30:34 - 30:37
    episode
Title:
Complete Guide into Belay Devices - Differences and Efficient Usage | Ep.6
Description:

more » « less
Video Language:
English
Team:
Hard Is Easy
Project:
Belay Masterclass
Duration:
30:35

English subtitles

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