Ep.8 Harness - Why do you Need to Adjust Elastic Straps?
-
0:03 - 0:08Welcome to a master class
about climbing harnesses. -
0:08 - 0:12In this video I'm gonna explain the
anatomy of the climbing harness. -
0:12 - 0:14Including some little things like
-
0:14 - 0:17what is this loop for
on the back of the harness -
0:17 - 0:22or this one on this harness
it even says zero kilonewtons. -
0:22 - 0:27Or why there is these elastic straps
on the back of the harness. -
0:27 - 0:30And some of them are even detachable.
-
0:30 - 0:36So all of that plus my recommendations
on how to choose a climbing harness. -
0:36 - 0:37Correct Fit of a Harness
-
0:37 - 0:42A typical climbing harness will have
a waist loop and two leg loops. -
0:42 - 0:44So put it in like you're
putting your pants. -
0:48 - 0:53Make sure that your waist loop is
above your hip bones. -
0:53 - 0:53Boom!
-
0:53 - 0:56You don't need to be crazy
when tightening your waist belt. -
0:56 - 1:00It only needs to be tight enough
so it would be not possible -
1:00 - 1:03to pull down the waist loop
through your hip bones. -
1:03 - 1:07And that's in case you flip upside down
-
1:07 - 1:10you won't slide out of your harness.
-
1:10 - 1:12Whoa!
-
1:12 - 1:14It's not comfortable to hang upside down.
-
1:14 - 1:16And also put the tail of the waist belt
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1:16 - 1:19to its designed place
every harness has a one. -
1:19 - 1:22It prevents the buckle
from undoing itself. -
1:22 - 1:28And also you don't need stuff dangling
around you when you're climbing. -
1:28 - 1:32So put it in its place.
-
1:32 - 1:37And that's it. Since my harness has only
one adjustable buckle I'm ready to climb. -
1:37 - 1:42While other harnesses might have
multiple buckles on a waist belt. -
1:42 - 1:44So you tighten both of them.
-
1:44 - 1:48And this is useful in case you're
planning to put on some size -
1:48 - 1:50That's when you're climbing
in colder conditions -
1:50 - 1:52and you need many layers of clothing.
-
1:52 - 1:53So two buckles allow
-
1:53 - 1:56you to adjust the center of the harness
-
1:56 - 1:57a little bit better than one.
-
1:57 - 2:00And same goes for the leg loops.
-
2:00 - 2:03Harnesses that are designed
more for alpine situations -
2:03 - 2:06where you might want to put
multiple layers of clothing -
2:06 - 2:09will have adjustable leg loops.
-
2:09 - 2:11But since I do mostly sport climbing and
-
2:11 - 2:14I wear only single layer of pants or
-
2:14 - 2:16sometimes no pants.
-
2:16 - 2:21I don't need all of that adjustability
and single buckle is enough. -
2:21 - 2:24And it also saves
some weight on the harness. -
2:24 - 2:26So the fit of the harness.
-
2:26 - 2:29For leg loops they shouldn't be loose.
-
2:29 - 2:31But they shouldn't be very tight as well.
-
2:31 - 2:34You should be able to put a hand or two
-
2:34 - 2:37between your leg and the harness.
-
2:37 - 2:40Because you will be moving
your legs a lot. -
2:40 - 2:43And you don't want your harness
to limit your movement. -
2:43 - 2:45Now for the waist as i said
-
2:45 - 2:50not too tight but you should
not be able to pull it down your waist. -
2:50 - 2:52If you pull the waist belt all the way
-
2:52 - 2:54and there is no more to pull,
-
2:54 - 2:56your harness is too big for you.
-
2:56 - 3:01The ideal sizing would be when
waist belt paddings (these things) -
3:01 - 3:05gently touch each other
or slightly overlap. -
3:05 - 3:08And you still have some room to pull more
-
3:08 - 3:13in case you lost some layers.
-
3:13 - 3:14Belay loop.
-
3:14 - 3:17This is the strongest point
on your harness. -
3:17 - 3:21It's required to be at least
15 kilonewtons strong. -
3:21 - 3:24But most manufacturers
will make it even stronger. -
3:24 - 3:27So used properly it's impossible to break.
-
3:27 - 3:30However if you're doing
something you shouldn't -
3:30 - 3:32you might get surprises.
-
3:32 - 3:35And I've talked already about that story
-
3:35 - 3:39in this video about slings.
So if you're curious watch that. -
3:39 - 3:41As the name suggests,
-
3:41 - 3:46the belay loop is used for
attaching your belay device. -
3:46 - 3:51And in general most of the metal climbing
equipment will go to your belay loop. -
3:51 - 3:53So carabiners - belay loop.
-
3:53 - 3:56Tie-in loops.
-
3:56 - 4:00Again as the name suggests
they are used for tying in your rope. -
4:00 - 4:04And also for attaching your
soft climbing equipment like slings. -
4:04 - 4:09Tie-in points usually will have extra
protection, especially the bottom one. -
4:09 - 4:12Because that sees a lot of rope friction.
-
4:12 - 4:15And that point will
wear down the quickest. -
4:15 - 4:18For example this is
my old climbing harness. -
4:18 - 4:22And the bottom tie-in point,
as you can see, is completely worn down -
4:22 - 4:25to the point where
I can see the orange inside. -
4:25 - 4:29So this is really not good
to climb anymore with. -
4:29 - 4:33I really like what Mammut did here
by putting this extra plastic. -
4:33 - 4:36It should greatly extend
the lifespan of this harness. -
4:36 - 4:38Gear loops.
-
4:38 - 4:40That's where you are gonna
carry your quickdraws -
4:40 - 4:42and other climbing equipment.
-
4:42 - 4:47I like to store my quickdraws
from short to long front to back. -
4:47 - 4:49So if i need a long quickdraw,
I'm reaching on the back. -
4:49 - 4:52If i need a short quickdraw,
I'm reaching on the front. -
4:52 - 4:54Gear loops are not load bearing
-
4:54 - 4:57meaning you should not attach
yourself to the gear loop. -
4:57 - 5:00On some harnesses
they might hold only five kilograms. -
5:00 - 5:02So don't do this.
-
5:02 - 5:07In such case it's better to grab
the person through entire waist loop. -
5:07 - 5:08Like so.
-
5:08 - 5:09Haul Loop
-
5:09 - 5:11The little loop
on the back of your harness -
5:11 - 5:14is called the haul loop or haul loop.
-
5:14 - 5:16I don't know how to pronounce it.
-
5:16 - 5:18Basically it's used to carrying
-
5:18 - 5:22extra rope or some other extra load.
-
5:22 - 5:26And on some of the harnesses it can be
stronger than gear loops. -
5:26 - 5:30For example on this Mammut harness
it's rated for 2 kilonewtons. -
5:30 - 5:34While on this Black Diamond
harness it says 0 kilonewtons. -
5:34 - 5:38So I don't know
what it's supposed to mean. -
5:38 - 5:42Probably do not attach anything
significantly heavy. -
5:42 - 5:47In any case this is
rarely used in sport climbing. -
5:47 - 5:49But you can use it as an extra gear loop
-
5:49 - 5:53and just attach something that
you're not planning to use very often. -
5:53 - 5:56Because it's going to be
at the back of your harness. -
5:56 - 6:00And this little guy is just
an extra feature on this harness -
6:00 - 6:01where you can clip your chalk bag.
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6:01 - 6:04Elastic Straps.
And why you Need to Adjust them! -
6:04 - 6:09OK, so what about these elastics
at the back of your harness? -
6:09 - 6:12Most of the people
actually ignore these straps. -
6:12 - 6:15But what they do is that
they allow you to adjust -
6:15 - 6:19how high your leg loops
sit on your leg. -
6:19 - 6:23So if i would loosen up
those straps completely, -
6:23 - 6:29now this lets the leg loops
to fall lower on the legs, -
6:29 - 6:37now if I hang on my harness
I'm actually being pulled backwards -
6:37 - 6:39much more than before.
-
6:39 - 6:44And that's simply because the leg loops
are lower on the leg. -
6:44 - 6:46And it's pulling the legs like this.
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6:46 - 6:50I would adjust my leg loops
to the position where I like them, -
6:50 - 6:56and then adjust the elastic strap to keep
the leg loops in that position, -
6:56 - 6:59and try to hang.
-
7:00 - 7:04Now I'm sitting way more straight
and this is much more comfortable. -
7:04 - 7:07So by adjusting
these straps on the back, -
7:07 - 7:12you can drastically change the way
you sit in your harness. -
7:12 - 7:15I'm actually surprised
how comfortable this harness is. -
7:15 - 7:20And it's not because Mammut
is sponsoring this video, which is true. -
7:20 - 7:24It's actually very comfortable.
I like it. -
7:24 - 7:28Now on some of the harnesses
you can completely detach this. -
7:28 - 7:30And that's for you ladies.
-
7:30 - 7:33If you want to do your business,
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7:33 - 7:36and you don't want to remove your harness,
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7:36 - 7:37now you can.
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7:37 - 7:39How to Choose a Harness?
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7:39 - 7:40Good!
-
7:40 - 7:42So how do you choose a harness?
-
7:42 - 7:47When there is so many different brands
and types and models and whatever. -
7:47 - 7:51Actually if you know what
type of climbing you're gonna do -
7:51 - 7:53choosing a harness is pretty easy.
-
7:53 - 7:56Let's say I'm looking for
a sport harness for myself. -
7:56 - 7:59My favorite method is
to go to a climbing shop and ask: -
7:59 - 8:02What harnesses do you have
for sport climbing? -
8:02 - 8:06And suddenly out of huge amount
of harnesses in the climbing shop -
8:06 - 8:09you will get maybe five to try.
-
8:09 - 8:14So you dismiss the ones that
look ugly to you, and try the rest. -
8:14 - 8:17Any decent climbing shop will have a place
-
8:17 - 8:19where you can hang
in your harness to test it. -
8:19 - 8:21And that's actually
the best way to understand -
8:21 - 8:26if this harness is actually
comfortable for your body. -
8:26 - 8:29Harnesses that are designed
for sport climbing -
8:29 - 8:31typically will be a bit lower profile,
-
8:31 - 8:36they will have a bit less padding,
but they will be lighter. -
8:36 - 8:39However manufacturers try really hard
-
8:39 - 8:43to make even such harnesses
as comfortable as possible. -
8:43 - 8:48So as long as you're not planning to sit
in your harness for really really long, -
8:48 - 8:52it should be good for
any type of climbing you're gonna do. -
8:52 - 8:56So single pitches, multi pitches,
all of that should be totally fine. -
8:56 - 9:01Now if you are planning to be hanging
in your harness for really really long, -
9:01 - 9:04hen you should look for
a harness with a bit higher profile -
9:04 - 9:06and a bit more padding.
-
9:06 - 9:08And that should make
sitting in that harness -
9:08 - 9:10a little bit more comfortable.
-
9:10 - 9:13So once you identify the harnesses
that are comfortable for you, -
9:13 - 9:15then you can look into other features.
-
9:15 - 9:18For example, how do you like the
closing mechanism, -
9:18 - 9:20does it go smooth for you.
-
9:20 - 9:25Сompare that with another harness.
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9:27 - 9:29Okay that was not intended
-
9:29 - 9:31but
-
9:31 - 9:33that's how it is.
-
9:33 - 9:36I don't know why,
what the fuck is happening. -
9:36 - 9:39Or which shape of
the gear loops you prefer. -
9:39 - 9:43For example on this harness it's
angled a little bit towards the front. -
9:43 - 9:47So when you clip your gear
it kind of falls forward, -
9:47 - 9:50as if it would be feeding
the quickdraws for you as you climb. -
9:50 - 9:52While most of the climbing harnesses
-
9:52 - 9:55will have at least four gear loops,
-
9:55 - 9:59some of them might have just two.
This saves weight. -
9:59 - 10:03And it's mostly designed
for single pitch sport climbing. -
10:03 - 10:06And now, a lot of companies started
to come up with a hybrid solution -
10:06 - 10:11where you have two very big
sturdy gear loops for your quickdraws, -
10:11 - 10:13but then you have extra thin gear loops
-
10:13 - 10:18for any extra gear you might want
to carry, for example, on a multi-pitch. -
10:18 - 10:20I think this is really cool and smart.
-
10:20 - 10:24You save a little bit of weight
but you don't lose functionality. -
10:24 - 10:27If you are a hardcore elite climber,
-
10:27 - 10:29maybe you want to check
the weight of the harness. -
10:29 - 10:33Maybe these few grams are gonna
change something for you. -
10:33 - 10:36And then any other extra features
that the harness might have -
10:36 - 10:39like indicator technology which
-
10:39 - 10:42shows you when you
wear down your belay loop -
10:42 - 10:44or tie-in points too much
-
10:44 - 10:48or extra protection on the tie-in point.
-
10:48 - 10:51And then in the end just consult
with your wallet. -
10:51 - 10:53And it's easy. You have a harness.
-
10:53 - 10:55Can You Wear Opposite Gender Harness?
-
10:55 - 10:56Now a bonus question.
-
10:56 - 10:59Can you wear the opposite gender harness?
-
10:59 - 11:01The short answer is yes.
-
11:01 - 11:04Typically a harness designed for females
-
11:04 - 11:06will have a little bit bigger leg loops
-
11:06 - 11:08and a little bit narrower waist loop.
-
11:08 - 11:12And the waist loop will be sitting
slightly higher compared to male version. -
11:12 - 11:15If that fits your body, enjoy.
-
11:15 - 11:18Some harnesses like this one
is designed to be unisex. -
11:18 - 11:21So there is no difference at all.
-
11:21 - 11:22Lifespan of a Harness
-
11:22 - 11:26Normally a harness should last you
between two and five years, -
11:26 - 11:29maybe seven years,
if you don't use it very often. -
11:29 - 11:32While manufacturers will say that
if you buy a harness -
11:32 - 11:36and never use it and
put it in ideal conditions in your closet, -
11:36 - 11:39you should still retire it after 10 years.
-
11:39 - 11:45And as mentioned before the tie-in points
on the harness tend to wear down quickest, -
11:45 - 11:46and then maybe the belay loop.
-
11:46 - 11:51So it's a good idea to keep an eye on
these parts of the harness specifically, -
11:51 - 11:54but also the rest of your harness.
-
11:54 - 11:56All right, I hope that
was helpful for you. -
11:56 - 11:58If you are planning to buy a harness,
-
11:58 - 12:01I will put some recommendations,
in the description, -
12:01 - 12:03but keep in mind that all manufacturers
-
12:03 - 12:07are competing really hard
to make even better harness. -
12:07 - 12:10So whatever you choose is
probably gonna be fine. -
12:10 - 12:13And also really big thank you for Mammut.
-
12:13 - 12:17And for everyone who is supporting me
to produce these videos. -
12:17 - 12:19It makes a huge difference.
-
12:19 - 12:23And if you want to contribute
here is a link. -
12:23 - 12:26And if not then see you in the next video.
-
12:26 - 12:27And enjoy climbing!
- Title:
- Ep.8 Harness - Why do you Need to Adjust Elastic Straps?
- Description:
-
Detailed Class on Climbing Harnesses & Simple method how to find the best Climbing Harness for you.
00:00 Intro
00:35 Correct Fit of a Harness
03:12 Belay Loop
03:53 Tie In Loops
04:36 Gear Loops
05:08 Haul Loop
06:01 Elastic Straps - And why you Need to Adjust them!
07:36 How to Choose a Harness?
10:53 Can You Wear Opposite Gender Harness?
11:21 Lifespan of a HarnessIf you are looking for a new Climbing harness, Good News - with such a huge competition a lot of Harnesses nowadays are really good. Here are the ones I've tried:
Mammut Sender (Orange) - https://bit.ly/3BQvBuy
Mammut Nordwand Harness (Black) - https://bit.ly/3E3uSblI've also used extensively:
Petzl Sitta & Black Diamond Solution and the difference is in small details that might or might not matter to you.If you are getting value out of my videos and wanna feel good - consider supporting me: https://hardiseasy.com
Because that makes a big difference and is the main reason I do this project!
Deep Thanks!
Ben - Video Language:
- English
- Team:
- Hard Is Easy
- Project:
- Belay Masterclass
- Duration:
- 12:28
Николай Н. Косовский published English subtitles for Ep.8 Harness - Why do you Need to Adjust Elastic Straps? | ||
Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Ep.8 Harness - Why do you Need to Adjust Elastic Straps? | ||
Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Ep.8 Harness - Why do you Need to Adjust Elastic Straps? | ||
Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Ep.8 Harness - Why do you Need to Adjust Elastic Straps? | ||
Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Ep.8 Harness - Why do you Need to Adjust Elastic Straps? | ||
Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Ep.8 Harness - Why do you Need to Adjust Elastic Straps? | ||
Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Ep.8 Harness - Why do you Need to Adjust Elastic Straps? | ||
Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Ep.8 Harness - Why do you Need to Adjust Elastic Straps? |