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Ep.8 Harness - Why do you Need to Adjust Elastic Straps?

  • 0:03 - 0:08
    Welcome to a master class
    about climbing harnesses.
  • 0:08 - 0:12
    In this video I'm gonna explain the
    anatomy of the climbing harness.
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    Including some little things like
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    what is this loop for
    on the back of the harness
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    or this one on this harness
    it even says zero kilonewtons.
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    Or why there is these elastic straps
    on the back of the harness.
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    And some of them are even detachable.
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    So all of that plus my recommendations
    on how to choose a climbing harness.
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    Correct Fit of a Harness
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    A typical climbing harness will have
    a waist loop and two leg loops.
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    So put it in like you're
    putting your pants.
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    Make sure that your waist loop is
    above your hip bones.
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    Boom!
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    You don't need to be crazy
    when tightening your waist belt.
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    It only needs to be tight enough
    so it would be not possible
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    to pull down the waist loop
    through your hip bones.
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    And that's in case you flip upside down
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    you won't slide out of your harness.
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    Whoa!
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    It's not comfortable to hang upside down.
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    And also put the tail of the waist belt
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    to its designed place
    every harness has a one.
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    It prevents the buckle
    from undoing itself.
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    And also you don't need stuff dangling
    around you when you're climbing.
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    So put it in its place.
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    And that's it. Since my harness has only
    one adjustable buckle I'm ready to climb.
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    While other harnesses might have
    multiple buckles on a waist belt.
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    So you tighten both of them.
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    And this is useful in case you're
    planning to put on some size
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    That's when you're climbing
    in colder conditions
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    and you need many layers of clothing.
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    So two buckles allow
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    you to adjust the center of the harness
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    a little bit better than one.
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    And same goes for the leg loops.
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    Harnesses that are designed
    more for alpine situations
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    where you might want to put
    multiple layers of clothing
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    will have adjustable leg loops.
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    But since I do mostly sport climbing and
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    I wear only single layer of pants or
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    sometimes no pants.
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    I don't need all of that adjustability
    and single buckle is enough.
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    And it also saves
    some weight on the harness.
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    So the fit of the harness.
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    For leg loops they shouldn't be loose.
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    But they shouldn't be very tight as well.
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    You should be able to put a hand or two
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    between your leg and the harness.
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    Because you will be moving
    your legs a lot.
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    And you don't want your harness
    to limit your movement.
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    Now for the waist as i said
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    not too tight but you should
    not be able to pull it down your waist.
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    If you pull the waist belt all the way
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    and there is no more to pull,
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    your harness is too big for you.
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    The ideal sizing would be when
    waist belt paddings (these things)
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    gently touch each other
    or slightly overlap.
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    And you still have some room to pull more
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    in case you lost some layers.
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    Belay loop.
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    This is the strongest point
    on your harness.
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    It's required to be at least
    15 kilonewtons strong.
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    But most manufacturers
    will make it even stronger.
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    So used properly it's impossible to break.
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    However if you're doing
    something you shouldn't
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    you might get surprises.
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    And I've talked already about that story
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    in this video about slings.
    So if you're curious watch that.
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    As the name suggests,
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    the belay loop is used for
    attaching your belay device.
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    And in general most of the metal climbing
    equipment will go to your belay loop.
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    So carabiners - belay loop.
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    Tie-in loops.
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    Again as the name suggests
    they are used for tying in your rope.
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    And also for attaching your
    soft climbing equipment like slings.
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    Tie-in points usually will have extra
    protection, especially the bottom one.
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    Because that sees a lot of rope friction.
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    And that point will
    wear down the quickest.
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    For example this is
    my old climbing harness.
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    And the bottom tie-in point,
    as you can see, is completely worn down
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    to the point where
    I can see the orange inside.
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    So this is really not good
    to climb anymore with.
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    I really like what Mammut did here
    by putting this extra plastic.
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    It should greatly extend
    the lifespan of this harness.
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    Gear loops.
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    That's where you are gonna
    carry your quickdraws
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    and other climbing equipment.
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    I like to store my quickdraws
    from short to long front to back.
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    So if i need a long quickdraw,
    I'm reaching on the back.
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    If i need a short quickdraw,
    I'm reaching on the front.
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    Gear loops are not load bearing
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    meaning you should not attach
    yourself to the gear loop.
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    On some harnesses
    they might hold only five kilograms.
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    So don't do this.
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    In such case it's better to grab
    the person through entire waist loop.
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    Like so.
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    Haul Loop
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    The little loop
    on the back of your harness
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    is called the haul loop or haul loop.
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    I don't know how to pronounce it.
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    Basically it's used to carrying
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    extra rope or some other extra load.
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    And on some of the harnesses it can be
    stronger than gear loops.
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    For example on this Mammut harness
    it's rated for 2 kilonewtons.
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    While on this Black Diamond
    harness it says 0 kilonewtons.
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    So I don't know
    what it's supposed to mean.
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    Probably do not attach anything
    significantly heavy.
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    In any case this is
    rarely used in sport climbing.
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    But you can use it as an extra gear loop
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    and just attach something that
    you're not planning to use very often.
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    Because it's going to be
    at the back of your harness.
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    And this little guy is just
    an extra feature on this harness
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    where you can clip your chalk bag.
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    Elastic Straps.
    And why you Need to Adjust them!
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    OK, so what about these elastics
    at the back of your harness?
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    Most of the people
    actually ignore these straps.
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    But what they do is that
    they allow you to adjust
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    how high your leg loops
    sit on your leg.
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    So if i would loosen up
    those straps completely,
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    now this lets the leg loops
    to fall lower on the legs,
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    now if I hang on my harness
    I'm actually being pulled backwards
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    much more than before.
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    And that's simply because the leg loops
    are lower on the leg.
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    And it's pulling the legs like this.
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    I would adjust my leg loops
    to the position where I like them,
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    and then adjust the elastic strap to keep
    the leg loops in that position,
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    and try to hang.
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    Now I'm sitting way more straight
    and this is much more comfortable.
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    So by adjusting
    these straps on the back,
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    you can drastically change the way
    you sit in your harness.
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    I'm actually surprised
    how comfortable this harness is.
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    And it's not because Mammut
    is sponsoring this video, which is true.
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    It's actually very comfortable.
    I like it.
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    Now on some of the harnesses
    you can completely detach this.
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    And that's for you ladies.
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    If you want to do your business,
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    and you don't want to remove your harness,
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    now you can.
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    How to Choose a Harness?
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    Good!
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    So how do you choose a harness?
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    When there is so many different brands
    and types and models and whatever.
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    Actually if you know what
    type of climbing you're gonna do
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    choosing a harness is pretty easy.
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    Let's say I'm looking for
    a sport harness for myself.
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    My favorite method is
    to go to a climbing shop and ask:
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    What harnesses do you have
    for sport climbing?
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    And suddenly out of huge amount
    of harnesses in the climbing shop
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    you will get maybe five to try.
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    So you dismiss the ones that
    look ugly to you, and try the rest.
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    Any decent climbing shop will have a place
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    where you can hang
    in your harness to test it.
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    And that's actually
    the best way to understand
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    if this harness is actually
    comfortable for your body.
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    Harnesses that are designed
    for sport climbing
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    typically will be a bit lower profile,
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    they will have a bit less padding,
    but they will be lighter.
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    However manufacturers try really hard
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    to make even such harnesses
    as comfortable as possible.
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    So as long as you're not planning to sit
    in your harness for really really long,
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    it should be good for
    any type of climbing you're gonna do.
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    So single pitches, multi pitches,
    all of that should be totally fine.
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    Now if you are planning to be hanging
    in your harness for really really long,
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    hen you should look for
    a harness with a bit higher profile
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    and a bit more padding.
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    And that should make
    sitting in that harness
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    a little bit more comfortable.
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    So once you identify the harnesses
    that are comfortable for you,
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    then you can look into other features.
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    For example, how do you like the
    closing mechanism,
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    does it go smooth for you.
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    Сompare that with another harness.
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    Okay that was not intended
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    but
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    that's how it is.
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    I don't know why,
    what the fuck is happening.
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    Or which shape of
    the gear loops you prefer.
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    For example on this harness it's
    angled a little bit towards the front.
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    So when you clip your gear
    it kind of falls forward,
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    as if it would be feeding
    the quickdraws for you as you climb.
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    While most of the climbing harnesses
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    will have at least four gear loops,
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    some of them might have just two.
    This saves weight.
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    And it's mostly designed
    for single pitch sport climbing.
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    And now, a lot of companies started
    to come up with a hybrid solution
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    where you have two very big
    sturdy gear loops for your quickdraws,
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    but then you have extra thin gear loops
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    for any extra gear you might want
    to carry, for example, on a multi-pitch.
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    I think this is really cool and smart.
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    You save a little bit of weight
    but you don't lose functionality.
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    If you are a hardcore elite climber,
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    maybe you want to check
    the weight of the harness.
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    Maybe these few grams are gonna
    change something for you.
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    And then any other extra features
    that the harness might have
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    like indicator technology which
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    shows you when you
    wear down your belay loop
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    or tie-in points too much
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    or extra protection on the tie-in point.
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    And then in the end just consult
    with your wallet.
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    And it's easy. You have a harness.
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    Can You Wear Opposite Gender Harness?
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    Now a bonus question.
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    Can you wear the opposite gender harness?
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    The short answer is yes.
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    Typically a harness designed for females
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    will have a little bit bigger leg loops
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    and a little bit narrower waist loop.
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    And the waist loop will be sitting
    slightly higher compared to male version.
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    If that fits your body, enjoy.
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    Some harnesses like this one
    is designed to be unisex.
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    So there is no difference at all.
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    Lifespan of a Harness
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    Normally a harness should last you
    between two and five years,
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    maybe seven years,
    if you don't use it very often.
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    While manufacturers will say that
    if you buy a harness
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    and never use it and
    put it in ideal conditions in your closet,
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    you should still retire it after 10 years.
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    And as mentioned before the tie-in points
    on the harness tend to wear down quickest,
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    and then maybe the belay loop.
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    So it's a good idea to keep an eye on
    these parts of the harness specifically,
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    but also the rest of your harness.
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    All right, I hope that
    was helpful for you.
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    If you are planning to buy a harness,
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    I will put some recommendations,
    in the description,
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    but keep in mind that all manufacturers
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    are competing really hard
    to make even better harness.
  • 12:07 - 12:10
    So whatever you choose is
    probably gonna be fine.
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    And also really big thank you for Mammut.
  • 12:13 - 12:17
    And for everyone who is supporting me
    to produce these videos.
  • 12:17 - 12:19
    It makes a huge difference.
  • 12:19 - 12:23
    And if you want to contribute
    here is a link.
  • 12:23 - 12:26
    And if not then see you in the next video.
  • 12:26 - 12:27
    And enjoy climbing!
Title:
Ep.8 Harness - Why do you Need to Adjust Elastic Straps?
Description:

Detailed Class on Climbing Harnesses & Simple method how to find the best Climbing Harness for you.

00:00 Intro
00:35 Correct Fit of a Harness
03:12 Belay Loop
03:53 Tie In Loops
04:36 Gear Loops
05:08 Haul Loop
06:01 Elastic Straps - And why you Need to Adjust them!
07:36 How to Choose a Harness?
10:53 Can You Wear Opposite Gender Harness?
11:21 Lifespan of a Harness

If you are looking for a new Climbing harness, Good News - with such a huge competition a lot of Harnesses nowadays are really good. Here are the ones I've tried:
Mammut Sender (Orange) - https://bit.ly/3BQvBuy
Mammut Nordwand Harness (Black) - https://bit.ly/3E3uSbl

I've also used extensively:
Petzl Sitta & Black Diamond Solution and the difference is in small details that might or might not matter to you.

If you are getting value out of my videos and wanna feel good - consider supporting me: https://hardiseasy.com
Because that makes a big difference and is the main reason I do this project!
Deep Thanks!
Ben

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Video Language:
English
Team:
Hard Is Easy
Project:
Belay Masterclass
Duration:
12:28
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