-
[Music]
-
so here is a cool fact
-
rope manufacturers claim that no matter
-
what fall you will take on a dynamic
-
climbing rope
-
the impact
-
is unlikely to injure you
-
that was sick
-
so how does it feel this
-
impact on a huge outside whipper
-
or this is even better how does it feel
-
to fall while trying to clip a second
-
quick draw and get a really hard catch
-
so can this impact injure you does it
-
hurt
-
or
-
even better
-
how does it feel when i'm trying to
-
explain all of this
-
and almost kill myself
-
so yeah that happened and it all started
-
with my wish to measure the forces of
-
really really hard climbing falls
-
and knowing these forces allow me and
-
probably others to answer a lot of
-
important questions for us climbers
-
like can you break a dynamic climbing
-
rope which is really really worn out
-
on realistic climbing falls
-
some people
-
would say that it is impossible to break
-
this rope while others would freak out
-
seeing this
-
because it doesn't look that great to be
-
honest
-
so stick with me the answer to this is
-
coming
-
and it actually surprised me a lot
-
but now back to hard falls
-
so in previous episode we went to a
-
small climbing gym in germany and we
-
tried to create the hardest climbing fall
-
by creating a ton of drag
-
and belaying in some crazy crazy ways
-
and then i had a quiz for you
-
which fall do you think was harder for
the climber
-
this crazy slam
-
or this big outdoors whipper
-
so if you think that the big fall
-
looks softer
-
good because i thought exactly the same
-
thing and pretty much any person to whom
-
i showed these two clips
-
i'm gonna show you two falls
-
and you can try to guess which one was
-
harder to the climber
- okay
-
yeah i can already tell you
-
well theoretically i would say that the
-
second one in the gym is the harder fall
-
because it's a shorter rope that can
-
absorb or a shorter portion of the rope
-
will absorb the energy
-
since there's so much zigzag happening
-
in the rope line and therefore yeah not
-
the entire rope that is actually used
-
so let's see if that's actually true
-
[Music]
-
that was sick
-
[Music]
-
that was sick
-
that was like a massive fall
-
it was
-
falling was nice
-
how big you think the fall was
-
how hard to say i will say like
-
eight meters maybe
-
it looked massive from the side it
-
looked massive
-
maybe 10
-
i don't know
-
do you think it's more than 10
-
yeah from the side it looks massive
-
I think more it was more to 15 i would say
-
you know
-
you don't think so 15
-
no i don't think so i don't think so
-
yeah judging the distance of
-
the fall is always tricky but by my best
-
estimation before the fall he was around
-
two and a half meters above the bolt and
-
after the fall he was about eight meters
-
below the bolt so let's say 10 meters
-
and this 10 meters fall resulted into
-
3.4 kilonewtons of force and if we
-
compare that to the jim slam
-
that slam was only 2.6 kilonewtons and
-
the hardest fall in the gym that day we
-
got was 2.9 kilonewtons this one
-
so does it mean that this huge whipper
-
was harder than the slam
-
it doesn't look like that right
-
and to make sense out of all of this we
-
need to define what does it mean harder
-
what we measured is the peak force to
-
the climber's harness and this peak
-
force happens around this moment
-
[Music]
-
and if you look closely this doesn't
-
look that bad
-
and what gets our attention is actually
-
the contact to the wall imagine if this
-
wall would have been not overhanging
-
then the peak force on the dynamometer
-
to the climber's harness would read
-
exactly the same but the slam to the
-
wall would be much worse and that's by
-
the way how most of the people sprain
-
their ankles shortfall hard catch
-
super quick slam into the wall so how
-
hard the fall for the climber is will
-
depend on two things first is the
-
initial impact to the harness this
-
that we measured to be around three to
-
three and a half kilonewtons on hard
-
falls let's test how three kilonewtons
-
feels
-
on the harness
-
don't do this at home
-
ouch
-
told you not to do this at home
-
listen learned
-
falling on a single bolt on three
-
kilonewtons of force
-
can make an entire bolt come out
-
of
-
18 millimeters of shitty spanish plywood
-
so
-
the impact was
-
okay
-
but the landing on the ass was
-
not so okay
-
all right
-
don't do this at home number two
-
since i really want to experience three
-
or three and a half kilonewtons of force
-
to my harness so i can tell you
-
how that feels
-
i rigged another system
-
which is
-
hopefully not gonna end up like the
-
first one
-
this time it's very static but it
-
doesn't matter
-
i just want to feel it
-
wow
-
that was 3.8
-
kilonewtons
-
and actually that felt quite okay
-
3.1 kilonewtons
-
and i barely feel anything
-
three and a half
-
okay this was almost four kilonewtons so
-
under three kilonewtons
-
i don't feel anything between three and
-
four i get a little but that's far from
-
injuring me
-
and
-
my homemade climbing wall breaks at
-
3.8 kilonewtons to default which would
-
be around 2 kilonewtons to the climber
-
so
-
my homemade climbing
-
wall is not for
-
falling and the second thing that the
-
climber will experience is of course the
-
impact to the wall which as we saw might
-
be problematic in fact let's zoom in on
-
the big fall and watch it couple of
-
times
-
and now let's compare it to the gym fall
-
so as you can see it's not that easy to
-
tell which one was actually harder and
-
it also depends a lot on climbers skills
-
to absorb the impact with his legs as a
-
climber you basically need to be like a
-
cat when you hit the wall super soft and
-
people who do a lot of baldering they
-
tend to be much better because they fall
-
on the crash pads a lot
-
and falling on a crash but with stiff
-
legs would probably kill you so the same
-
applies to falling on ropes you want to
-
absorb the impact as soft as possible
-
and of course there are other factors
-
that contribute to how hard you will
-
slam to the wall for example jumping
-
away or pushing yourself away from the
-
wall as i talked in the previous episode
-
or
-
belaying in really hard ways in gym case
-
we created a hard catch on purpose
-
however on outdoors whipper the belayer
-
was standing and doing nothing
-
handbag
-
and i have a separate video coming where
-
i will show that standing and doing
-
nothing creates much harder catch than
-
pretty much any soft delaying method you
-
can try so although this belay didn't
-
looked hard it was definitely possible
-
to make it much softer but this was
-
actually perfect because i got the force
-
to the climber on big whipper on hardish
-
catch
-
totally realistic scenario and that's
-
actually not all
-
in the following months i was going
-
around and making a ton of experiments
-
[Music]
-
during which i recorded the forces to
-
the climber on over hundreds of faults
-
and even ryan sent me some clips of his
-
to compare the datum
-
oh
-
oh that was better than wheaties in the
-
morning
-
i hit 1.14 i got 2.64 and the hardest
-
fall i recorded was this one
-
[Music]
-
okay okay you saved me
-
this is the hardest recording you've got
-
3.60
-
so in this case we were filming an
-
episode of how to belay sketchy close to
-
the ground falls
-
the climber was clipping the second
-
quick draw above his head and takes a
-
fall
-
[Music]
-
so that's another sneak peek into the
-
future what's coming on my channel and
-
if you don't want to miss that i hope
-
that you do youtube things and subscribe
-
and click all of these bells and stuff
-
but for now i can say that unless the
-
climber is really really heavy
-
or we are in some unlucky multi-pitch
-
scenario which i haven't had time yet to
-
experiment with creating a fall which
-
would be harder than four kilonewtons
-
to the climber
-
is really really unlikely and that's
-
really good to know because it just
-
shows how great the climbing ropes are
-
at keeping us safe as i've just
-
demonstrated here four kilonewtons to
-
climbers harness is not really something
-
we should worry about unless of course
-
it's accompanied by a
-
slam to the wall and that brings me to
-
the original question
-
can i snap this very worn out rope on
-
the realistic climbing fall
-
or now i can rephrase the question can i
-
snap this rope on forces below 4
-
kilonewtons to the rope and the answer
-
to this surprised me a lot i had a
-
chance to hang out with mamamoo
-
engineers and test this
-
and also ask pretty much any question i
-
wanted and man that was super
-
interesting so i recommend to not miss
-
the next episode and until then i'm
-
gonna leave you with somebody who really
-
likes challenges
-
okay
-
that left hand is 29.
-
no i think sitting is better it's all
-
about technique
-
[Music]
-
it's better it's 8 68 now
-
okay pressing as hard as you can with
-
one hand
-
[Music]
-
he's going slow
-
he's he's weaker than i
-
yeah
-
really
-
what
-
how how much do you do i don't say it ah
-
and to make this competition a little
-
bit more fair i decided to split it into
-
1 000 for guys and 1 000 for girls and
-
to make it even more interesting girls
-
can win both categories of course if
-
there is a girl who is stronger than
-
the guys
-
not better yeah you can grab in any way
-
you like
-
any recommendation
-
oh no it's a competition i don't give
-
any hands
-
[Music]
-
everybody tries to go slow first what's
-
this i'm so much better
-
[Music]
-
oh
-
the good technique was funny
-
it's going to be worse
-
yeah
-
50.
-
where is the power screen oh my god oh
-
my god
-
oh you have seventy
-
you have seventy even the dog
-
congratulations
-
or no boxing techniques right
-
watch out my mind
-
oh it works the boxing technique works
-
it's all about technique you like the
-
boxing kidneys somehow
-
you want to try boxing
-
technique it's my best
-
by the way did you notice that this
-
episode had no annoying ads
-
this is thanks to people like this guy
-
[Applause]
-
you