Ep.2 Carabiners - Shapes / Styles & How they Fail!

Title:
Ep.2 Carabiners - Shapes / Styles & How they Fail!
Description:

Detailed Class on Carabiners. You will learn why there are so many different Shapes / Sizes & Styles of the Carabiners. How to choose & use them Safely and all the ways a Carabiner could Fail on loads lower than what they are rated for (kN on the spine of the Carabiner) and how to avoid that.

00:00 Intro
00:44 Aluminium Alloy
01:34 Steel
01:54 Hot-Forged
02:48 Shapes - Oval vs D
03:55 Shapes - HMS (Pear)
05:08 Shapes - Belay carabiners
06:52 Shapes - QuickLink
07:43 Gate - Non-Locking
08:59 Gate - How to Correctly use 2 non-locking carabiners?
10:22 Gate - Screw gate
11:17 Gate - Auto-Locking
13:24 Size - Is smaller better?
14:57 Strength - What matters in real world?
18:08 Strength - Can you break Cross-Loaded carabiner?
19:44 Strength - Nose Hook - Dangerous!
20:59 Strength - Carabiner bent over the edge
22:10 Strength - Triload
24:08 When to Retire your carabiner?
25:43 Microfractures - Can you Drop your carabiner?
27:20 Bonus question

� Choosing Guide for Beginners
For bolted single pitch climbing:

1x Belay Device Carabiner:
Mammut Bionic Cross Lock - https://bit.ly/3AagrPT
Mammut Smart HMS - https://bit.ly/3AdgcmS
Black Diamond Grid Lock
EDELRID HMS Bulletproof

1-2x small size, D shape, autolocker or screw gate for Tether / Lanyard or other use cases (having multifunctional carabiners is always handy):
Nordwand Micro Lock: https://bit.ly/37m9zSQ
The fastests screw gate I've ever tried, but most of them work fine, so choose whatever is pretty to you.

For bolted multipitches you might want to add:

2x small, D shape screw gate for connecting anchor to bolts:
Nordwand Micro Lock: https://bit.ly/37m9zSQ

1x bigger, screw or autolocker for Master point:
Workhorse HMS: https://bit.ly/3jmlNRh

* Above links might be affiliate and give me small benefit.

❤ If you are getting value out of my videos and wanna feel good - consider supporting me
https://hardiseasy.com
Because that makes a big difference and allows me to do this project!
Deep Thanks!
Ben

❤ Special Thanks For Mammut for helping me to create this episode!

� Additional resources:

Corrosion in Climbing Carabiners https://rockclimbingcompany.blogspot.com/2009/09/corrosion-in-climbing-carabiners.html

Forces at work in a real fall
https://www.petzl.com/BE/en/Sport/Forces-at-work-in-a-real-fall?ActivityName=Rock-climbing

Black Diamond QC LAB: WEAKNESS OF NOSE-HOOKED CARABINERS
https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_ES/stories/experience-story-qc-lab-weakness-of-nosehooked-carabiners/

DMM Nose Hooked tests
https://dmmwales.com/knowledge/may-2015/carabiner-and-bolt-interaction

more » « less
Video Language:
English
Team:
Hard Is Easy
Project:
Belay Masterclass
Duration:
28:10
Format: Youtube Primary Original Synced