0:00:00.000,0:00:03.070 [Music] 0:00:20.240,0:00:21.840 Whoah! 0:00:21.840,0:00:23.519 It's not a sound that you want to hear 0:00:23.519,0:00:25.060 when you're out climbing. 0:00:25.060,0:00:27.369 Is it bad if I scream behind the camera? 0:00:29.279,0:00:32.800 How fuzzy is too fuzzy? 0:00:32.800,0:00:34.880 This is the rope that I used for about 0:00:34.880,0:00:37.680 two years of intense climbing... 0:00:37.680,0:00:40.000 or at least this is the end of this rope. 0:00:40.000,0:00:42.239 If I compare to the middle, this is how 0:00:42.239,0:00:45.039 the middle of the same rope looks. 0:00:45.039,0:00:47.200 And as you can see it's a huge 0:00:47.200,0:00:49.039 difference. 0:00:49.039,0:00:51.760 So the question is, should I worry about 0:00:51.760,0:00:54.079 this fuzziness? Or another question that 0:00:54.079,0:00:57.360 I see climbers disagree a lot on is: If i 0:00:57.360,0:01:00.160 can squeeze my rope like this, does it 0:01:00.160,0:01:02.800 mean that inside, core strands are 0:01:02.800,0:01:04.500 damaged or no? 0:01:04.500,0:01:07.777 So, to avoid breaking my back on homemade 0:01:07.777,0:01:09.192 experiments.... 0:01:10.232,0:01:12.560 yeah as some of you noticed 0:01:12.560,0:01:14.240 it can be quite stressful 0:01:14.240,0:01:16.960 so not this time. This time I decided to 0:01:16.960,0:01:19.920 reach out to Mammut and ask if by any 0:01:19.920,0:01:22.479 chance I could come over and nerd with 0:01:22.479,0:01:23.750 their engineers. 0:01:23.750,0:01:24.830 How dangerous is this? 0:01:24.830,0:01:26.740 (laughs) We will find out! 0:01:26.740,0:01:28.970 so this is a product developer from 0:01:28.970,0:01:30.080 Mammut 0:01:30.080,0:01:32.560 and you said you're an expert in textiles. 0:01:32.560,0:01:34.044 Would you whip on this? 0:01:34.044,0:01:36.200 (uncomfortable noises) 0:01:37.200,0:01:39.200 Can we destroy this rope? I would say the 0:01:39.200,0:01:41.920 core strands won't fail if it's a normal 0:01:41.920,0:01:42.920 sport climbing fall. 0:01:42.920,0:01:44.500 Within the first fall? 0:01:44.500,0:01:46.079 No no no not the first fall. 0:01:46.079,0:01:47.569 Would you whip on this? 0:01:47.569,0:01:48.739 Oh yes definitely. 0:01:48.739,0:01:49.963 How many times? 0:01:51.783,0:01:54.000 So this rope is not the same rope that 0:01:54.000,0:01:56.640 we used in an experiment. That one was a 0:01:56.640,0:01:58.980 little bit worse than this 0:01:58.980,0:02:00.820 and it kind of died. 0:02:00.820,0:02:01.960 Can ropes die? 0:02:01.960,0:02:04.060 Anyway the goal was to find out what 0:02:04.060,0:02:06.719 happens if you take a huge fall 0:02:06.719,0:02:09.520 and this soft spot hits on your 0:02:09.520,0:02:10.560 quickdraw 0:02:10.560,0:02:13.360 exactly on the peak force. And by the way 0:02:13.360,0:02:16.239 this video is not sponsored, but in case 0:02:16.239,0:02:18.319 you don't know, Mammut is one of the 0:02:18.319,0:02:21.440 oldest companies making climbing ropes 0:02:21.440,0:02:23.760 so they have some serious knowledge 0:02:23.760,0:02:27.059 about that so I wanted to know everything. 0:02:27.059,0:02:28.720 Let's get nerdy! I have a 0:02:28.720,0:02:31.120 bunch of questions from me and my 0:02:31.120,0:02:31.850 followers. 0:02:31.850,0:02:32.830 Sounds great! 0:02:32.830,0:02:34.299 Ah. You're probably gonna add 0:02:34.299,0:02:35.519 10 000 more questions. 0:02:35.519,0:02:36.400 I'm sorry. 0:02:36.400,0:02:38.480 And by the way the questions that you 0:02:38.480,0:02:39.840 guys sent 0:02:39.840,0:02:40.959 had some 0:02:40.959,0:02:43.879 serious sense of practicality. 0:02:43.879,0:02:47.599 A cat pees on my rope how bad is that? 0:02:47.599,0:02:50.959 Or a dog peed on my rope how bad is that? 0:02:50.959,0:02:53.200 If you have a dry rope 0:02:53.200,0:02:55.480 we test it with human pee 0:02:55.480,0:02:58.460 because I mean if you're on a multipitch[br]and you have to go... you know... 0:02:58.460,0:03:00.400 So you actually did the testing on this? 0:03:00.400,0:03:01.599 Yes and 0:03:01.599,0:03:04.480 the answer is no it's not dangerous. 0:03:04.480,0:03:07.680 I wonder if cats pee or dog's pee is more 0:03:07.680,0:03:09.372 aggressive than a human pee? 0:03:09.372,0:03:13.260 Hey let's go do some science! 0:03:13.260,0:03:15.350 So this is where the rope testing magic 0:03:15.350,0:03:17.439 happens and this is where you get those 0:03:17.439,0:03:20.459 six seven eight or whatever falls on the rope. 0:03:20.459,0:03:21.639 Exactly yeah. 0:03:21.639,0:03:22.359 Statistics. 0:03:22.359,0:03:24.650 The scenario is like really really hard 0:03:24.650,0:03:28.799 like we have a fall factor of around 1.7 0:03:28.799,0:03:30.879 we test the ropes with the 80 kilogram 0:03:30.879,0:03:33.120 steel mass which is like super static. 0:03:33.120,0:03:35.440 What are the forces on standard tests? 0:03:35.440,0:03:37.159 For a single rope it's 0:03:37.159,0:03:39.269 around like 8 to 9 kN. 0:03:39.269,0:03:40.294 For the first fall? 0:03:40.294,0:03:41.440 For the first fall. 0:03:41.440,0:03:43.329 And... we had the first problem. 0:03:43.329,0:03:45.519 so called standard rope test that every 0:03:45.519,0:03:48.959 manufacturer does is super extreme. In 0:03:48.959,0:03:51.229 order to make it more like a real 0:03:51.229,0:03:53.950 climbing fall, we needed to reduce it 0:03:53.950,0:03:57.360 below 4 kilonewtons. And if you ask why four, 0:03:57.360,0:03:59.760 it means that you haven't seen these two 0:03:59.760,0:04:01.840 videos where we tried to create their 0:04:01.840,0:04:04.400 hardest real climbing falls and measure 0:04:04.400,0:04:06.080 the forces of them. 0:04:06.080,0:04:08.480 That's why I said like maybe we try like 0:04:08.480,0:04:10.959 with a new rope to get like a feeling 0:04:10.959,0:04:12.959 like what falling height we need to have 0:04:12.959,0:04:16.320 like around this less than 4kN and then 0:04:16.320,0:04:17.960 we switch to your rope. 0:04:20.560,0:04:22.480 -Don't look, guess. [br]-2 kN. 0:04:22.480,0:04:24.770 2 K? I think it's less. 0:04:26.720,0:04:28.380 Wow two and a half. 0:04:28.380,0:04:29.440 As I said these guys 0:04:29.440,0:04:32.320 are really good. It took only one fall, 0:04:32.320,0:04:34.400 and we got the force of two and a half 0:04:34.400,0:04:37.199 kilonewtons on a brand new rope. And that 0:04:37.199,0:04:39.360 was perfect because we were estimating 0:04:39.360,0:04:41.360 that once we swapped the ropes to the 0:04:41.360,0:04:44.080 old one the force will go slightly 0:04:44.080,0:04:46.880 higher because older ropes don't 0:04:46.880,0:04:49.680 absorb the impact as well and it's going 0:04:49.680,0:04:52.000 to be a perfect representation of 0:04:52.000,0:04:54.691 a realistic hard climbing fall. 0:04:54.879,0:04:56.400 So here's the tricky part: 0:04:56.400,0:04:57.560 when you fall on a rock, 0:04:58.960,0:05:01.520 sometimes it happens but almost the same 0:05:01.520,0:05:03.199 spot hits the 0:05:03.199,0:05:06.080 -top carabiner.[br]-Yeah 0:05:06.080,0:05:08.960 And now the tricky part is how to place 0:05:08.960,0:05:12.080 that spot that it would be on a peak 0:05:12.080,0:05:14.120 force on the carabiner 0:05:14.120,0:05:17.759 Yeah. 0:05:17.759,0:05:19.710 Not easy. Or hard is easy. 0:05:19.710,0:05:22.689 As you can imagine, once the fall happens 0:05:22.689,0:05:25.573 the rope stretches and that soft spot that 0:05:25.573,0:05:29.000 we are trying to hit will move. 0:05:29.279,0:05:31.719 (indistinct) 0:05:33.759,0:05:35.600 You thought it's gonna be easy? 0:05:35.600,0:05:36.720 No no, 0:05:36.720,0:05:39.280 I knew it will be exactly like this. 0:05:39.280,0:05:42.240 The force to the rope will start increasing 0:05:42.240,0:05:44.000 increasing increasing increasing 0:05:44.000,0:05:46.000 increasing and at some point reaches the 0:05:46.000,0:05:48.240 maximum, and then the force will start 0:05:48.240,0:05:49.759 dropping dropping dropping dropping 0:05:49.759,0:05:50.880 dropping. 0:05:50.880,0:05:53.600 So the challenge is, how to position the 0:05:53.600,0:05:54.960 soft spot 0:05:54.960,0:05:58.720 that it would move over the quickdraw 0:05:58.720,0:06:01.529 as close to the peak of the force. 0:06:01.529,0:06:02.960 With this 0:06:02.960,0:06:05.840 small fall scenario a new rope 0:06:05.840,0:06:08.479 it's about like what? 400? 0:06:08.479,0:06:13.460 -300 400 500 .[br]-Right. A lot 0:06:13.460,0:06:17.089 -So new rope would hold about 400 falls on... 0:06:17.089,0:06:19.589 -Small falls[br]-Like, realistic falls. 0:06:19.589,0:06:21.860 Let's see what happens if we put that 0:06:21.860,0:06:23.919 damaged rope and see 0:06:23.919,0:06:27.220 if it's hundreds or it's just a few. 0:06:39.919,0:06:41.919 Do you think we will hit that spot or we 0:06:41.919,0:06:43.680 will be very far off? 0:06:43.680,0:06:46.400 I think we hit it yeah 0:06:46.400,0:06:49.039 where is it now? Like 30 centimeters 0:06:49.039,0:06:50.080 below. 0:06:50.080,0:06:52.880 Yeah it's around here now 0:06:52.880,0:06:55.039 and the rope is tense so probably this 0:06:55.039,0:06:56.560 will move up, 0:06:57.680,0:06:59.800 how much we will see. 0:07:07.440,0:07:11.280 So we overshot the soft spot just by a 0:07:11.280,0:07:13.919 little bit, so we will try to readjust 0:07:13.919,0:07:15.360 now and 0:07:15.360,0:07:17.290 see if we can hit it more perfectly. 0:07:22.080,0:07:25.260 So we managed to hit the spot at 0:07:25.260,0:07:29.599 2.47 kilonewtons of force, and now we will 0:07:29.599,0:07:32.160 try to increase the fall a little bit to 0:07:32.160,0:07:34.220 get to really hard falls. 0:07:34.220,0:07:36.319 -20, 30 centimeters?[br]-Yeah let's do that. 0:07:36.319,0:07:38.960 Let's see if we will still stay in 0:07:38.960,0:07:40.880 the damaged spot where it will just 0:07:40.880,0:07:42.149 stretch over. 0:07:47.840,0:07:49.859 So we broke the sheath 0:07:50.639,0:07:53.520 we broke the sheath after two falls 0:07:53.520,0:07:56.720 and you said it's gonna last! 0:07:56.720,0:07:58.400 No but that's what I said like the 0:07:58.400,0:07:59.920 sheath will break... 0:07:59.920,0:08:01.120 What's was the force? 0:08:01.120,0:08:02.960 The force was 0:08:02.960,0:08:04.879 only 2.1. 0:08:04.879,0:08:06.960 Only 2.1 kilonewtons and the sheath 0:08:06.960,0:08:08.140 broke! 0:08:13.369,0:08:15.140 So... 0:08:15.140,0:08:16.789 if your rope is 0:08:16.789,0:08:18.800 soft, good luck. 0:08:18.800,0:08:22.240 If the sheath is already damaged like we 0:08:22.240,0:08:24.240 saw it like now this will lead like to 0:08:24.240,0:08:26.879 cut sheath like immediately. But the 0:08:26.879,0:08:28.560 the good thing is that the rope will not 0:08:28.560,0:08:30.639 snap 0:08:30.639,0:08:32.959 because the core strands like are 0:08:32.959,0:08:36.399 -still intact. [br]-So how many falls it would 0:08:36.399,0:08:39.839 take now to completely snap the rope? 0:08:39.839,0:08:41.760 That's a good question, I never tested 0:08:41.760,0:08:43.660 this. 0:08:43.660,0:08:45.519 But we could do this I guess we can do 0:08:45.519,0:08:47.839 at least like two or three falls now 0:08:47.839,0:08:48.729 only on the core strands. 0:08:48.729,0:08:49.620 Yes yes. 0:08:49.620,0:08:52.120 Guess how many falls it's going to take. 0:08:53.280,0:08:54.230 20. 0:08:54.230,0:08:55.440 -20? [br]-Yeah. 0:08:55.440,0:09:00.110 Wow so it took only two falls to completely [br]shred this sheath. 0:09:00.110,0:09:02.260 But the good thing is like a rope is 0:09:02.260,0:09:04.959 constructed in a way that the sheath only 0:09:04.959,0:09:07.360 takes around like 10 to 20 percent 0:09:07.360,0:09:08.560 of the load, 0:09:08.560,0:09:10.399 and the rest like the 0:09:10.399,0:09:12.320 load bearing structure is basically only 0:09:12.320,0:09:13.279 the core. 0:09:13.279,0:09:14.880 Okay so 0:09:14.880,0:09:16.800 The question is if you take a rope and 0:09:16.800,0:09:18.720 you squeeze it so you feel that it's 0:09:18.720,0:09:20.880 soft completely inside, does it mean 0:09:20.880,0:09:23.120 that the core is damaged or no? 0:09:23.120,0:09:25.249 No because a lot of people think that 0:09:25.249,0:09:26.354 it's damaged inside. 0:09:26.354,0:09:27.550 The core is still intact. 0:09:27.550,0:09:29.120 Like if I were to cut the rope at 0:09:29.120,0:09:31.279 that spot would i find some damage 0:09:31.279,0:09:33.463 inside of the core strands? 0:09:33.463,0:09:36.000 It's difficult to say because over time, 0:09:36.000,0:09:37.870 the core strands, also when we do fall 0:09:37.870,0:09:39.830 tests, you can see that it gets a 0:09:39.830,0:09:41.670 little bit more hairy 0:09:41.670,0:09:44.010 if you would cut it open, but it's just 0:09:44.010,0:09:45.839 a couple of filaments that might have 0:09:45.839,0:09:48.080 broken, but it's not that an entire core 0:09:48.080,0:09:50.880 strand is broken, but it's weakened for 0:09:50.880,0:09:52.080 sure. 0:09:52.080,0:09:55.040 -Let's see if we can snap this rope now.[br]-Yeah 0:09:55.040,0:09:58.390 So how many falls you said? 0:09:58.390,0:09:59.680 I don't know. 0:09:59.680,0:10:01.180 10 to 20? 0:10:01.180,0:10:03.120 10 to 20. let's see. 0:10:03.120,0:10:05.599 So this is one multifilament. 0:10:05.599,0:10:10.000 -Multifilament made out of multiple filaments.[br]-Yes. 0:10:10.000,0:10:11.320 How much? 0:10:11.320,0:10:15.040 -280. [br]-This is 280 inside of this so if I 0:10:15.040,0:10:17.440 would take one, 0:10:17.440,0:10:21.360 what force that one thing would hold? 0:10:21.360,0:10:24.720 Well you would not test it like this 0:10:24.720,0:10:27.200 because a multifilament you look at it 0:10:27.200,0:10:30.079 as the entire thing but what i can tell 0:10:30.079,0:10:36.530 you, that this core strand would hold 180 kilos 0:10:36.530,0:10:37.739 And we are not even reaching 0:10:37.739,0:10:40.520 -very hard falls yet. [br]-No, this is nothing. 0:10:43.570,0:10:47.200 -So you see?[br]-One strand snapped. 0:10:47.200,0:10:49.120 So you said 20 how many strands are 0:10:49.120,0:10:50.390 inside? 0:10:53.040,0:10:54.560 Two of eight! 0:10:54.560,0:10:57.110 So you said 20 falls? 0:10:57.110,0:10:59.050 10 to 20! 0:10:59.050,0:11:02.480 Apart from standard drop tests, what 0:11:02.480,0:11:04.720 are other tests that are performed on 0:11:04.720,0:11:06.880 -climbing ropes?[br]- What we usually do is 0:11:06.880,0:11:09.360 also test the abrasion resistance of the 0:11:09.360,0:11:11.440 rope so there we have an in-house 0:11:11.440,0:11:13.279 developed testing method. So it's a 0:11:13.279,0:11:16.480 machine which pulls a rope over a sharp 0:11:16.480,0:11:19.680 metal edge and we are counting how many 0:11:19.680,0:11:22.000 cycles it takes for actually damaging 0:11:22.000,0:11:23.760 the sheath. 0:11:29.360,0:11:32.399 We have like two parts now broken. 0:11:32.399,0:11:36.240 So we have one part and two parts broken! 0:11:36.240,0:11:38.480 Yeah if we talk about abrasion resistant I 0:11:38.480,0:11:40.720 have some interesting stuff to show you. 0:11:40.720,0:11:44.160 200 cycles so 200 times 0:11:44.160,0:11:46.640 back and forth. Here you see a classic 0:11:46.640,0:11:49.440 rope so it does not have any treatment 0:11:49.440,0:11:52.880 impregnation, it's a 9.5. It's pretty 0:11:52.880,0:11:55.200 -worn out.[br]-It is worn out! It's at the point 0:11:55.200,0:11:57.120 where i would consider maybe even 0:11:57.120,0:11:59.839 -cutting this. [br]-Yes, and you should. 0:11:59.839,0:12:01.760 Then next to it, we have 0:12:01.760,0:12:04.720 also 9.5 but it has the dry treatment. 0:12:04.720,0:12:08.160 -What? That's a huge difference! [br]-Yes. 0:12:08.160,0:12:10.639 That's exactly the same rope but just 0:12:10.639,0:12:14.200 -dry treated? [br]-Yes. that's a huge huge difference. 0:12:16.079,0:12:17.760 It feels a little bit burnt like 0:12:17.760,0:12:20.150 when you touch it, 0:12:20.160,0:12:22.000 it definitely got hot, 0:12:22.000,0:12:23.680 like on the edge. 0:12:23.680,0:12:26.240 So your six lives got a bit damaged. 0:12:26.240,0:12:28.320 But that's good to know that you can climb. 0:12:28.320,0:12:30.320 You can climb? You would climb on this?! 0:12:30.320,0:12:31.440 I mean the Fitz Traverse 0:12:31.440,0:12:33.839 was done by Sean Villanueva like with a 0:12:33.839,0:12:35.680 sheath-cut rope, like from the 0:12:35.680,0:12:37.760 beginning. On I think the second pitch or 0:12:37.760,0:12:39.839 the third pitch he had a stone fall, and 0:12:39.839,0:12:41.680 his rope already got cut. Like the sheath 0:12:41.680,0:12:43.200 was completely damaged, and he did the 0:12:43.200,0:12:45.600 whole Fitz Traverse with this rope then. 0:12:45.600,0:12:48.320 He like rappelled a lot over it. 0:12:48.320,0:12:52.160 Does the percentage of sheath versus core strands... 0:12:52.160,0:12:54.869 -It's not always the same.[br]-In sport climbing ropes? 0:12:54.899,0:12:56.480 Yeah or like climbing 0:12:56.480,0:12:58.160 -ropes in general. [br]-It's not always the 0:12:58.160,0:12:59.200 -same now?[br]-No. 0:12:59.200,0:13:01.920 -And what does it depend on? [br]-Well for us 0:13:01.920,0:13:03.920 it depends on what kind of rope we want 0:13:03.920,0:13:06.399 -to make. [br]-Sport Climbing. 0:13:06.399,0:13:08.179 Wait let me show you something. 0:13:08.179,0:13:10.480 -Show me something. [br]-Okay so you have the interplay 0:13:10.480,0:13:13.120 of both the percentage of material that 0:13:13.120,0:13:16.079 is the sheath but also 0:13:16.079,0:13:18.800 how the sheath was constructed. For example 0:13:18.800,0:13:22.800 here on this rope we have more sheath 0:13:22.800,0:13:24.720 twines so 0:13:24.720,0:13:27.839 if you would count these 0:13:27.839,0:13:31.440 singular ones, they are much more than on 0:13:31.440,0:13:34.090 -this sheath. [br]-Oh yeah that's almost double, no? 0:13:34.639,0:13:37.360 No that it isn't but it's just a slight 0:13:37.360,0:13:39.600 difference. But if you check out the 0:13:39.600,0:13:40.959 surface 0:13:40.959,0:13:44.800 you can see that here the little cubes 0:13:44.800,0:13:47.600 that they form are smaller 0:13:47.600,0:13:51.600 than on this one. So here we have a super 0:13:51.600,0:13:54.399 fine surface of the of the sheath so if 0:13:54.399,0:13:56.959 you for example would touch this one it 0:13:56.959,0:13:59.120 -feels much rougher. [br]-Yeah. 0:13:59.120,0:14:00.880 so this is also what makes it more 0:14:00.880,0:14:02.079 durable. 0:14:03.819,0:14:06.129 Now one more and it snaps. 0:14:06.254,0:14:08.644 -Oh shit![br]-No kidding! 0:14:10.160,0:14:12.240 So we are still very far from twenty but 0:14:12.240,0:14:14.740 -what's the force? [br]-Maybe I get some coffee huh? No? 0:14:14.740,0:14:15.764 (Camerawoman) Yes! 0:14:15.764,0:14:17.808 -It was already 3.4. 0:14:17.808,0:14:20.399 It's increasing and increasing so the dynamic 0:14:20.399,0:14:22.160 performance of the rope gets lower and 0:14:22.160,0:14:23.230 lower and lower. 0:14:23.230,0:14:26.959 This one here is our workhorse construction. It does not have 0:14:26.959,0:14:29.440 any treatment but we're using the best 0:14:29.440,0:14:31.920 and the finest yarns that we have to 0:14:31.920,0:14:35.040 make this construction. And it also.. I 0:14:35.040,0:14:37.680 would say you know it's as good as the 0:14:37.680,0:14:39.680 -dry rope.[br]-So why 0:14:39.680,0:14:41.920 not all ropes are made this way where we 0:14:41.920,0:14:44.860 have finer construction? 0:14:44.860,0:14:46.320 Because price matters. 0:14:46.320,0:14:48.720 Yeah now I would like to see not 200 cycles 0:14:48.720,0:14:53.040 -but 1000. [br]-Yes they come here. [br]-Oh really? 0:14:53.040,0:14:56.110 Not to 2000 but to 500. 0:14:56.110,0:14:58.720 I would climb with 0:14:58.720,0:15:01.360 this one, and with this one. Or if i have 0:15:01.360,0:15:04.560 A risky day I would choose this. 0:15:04.560,0:15:06.689 Do you have risky days? 0:15:06.689,0:15:07.489 Sometimes... 0:15:07.489,0:15:10.639 Turns out size or diameter is 0:15:10.639,0:15:13.199 not all that matters when we talk about 0:15:13.199,0:15:16.000 durability, construction, and extra 0:15:16.000,0:15:18.880 treatments might have a bigger impact. 0:15:18.880,0:15:21.040 It's a crazy difference, no? Having in 0:15:21.040,0:15:22.880 mind that all of them will run through 0:15:22.880,0:15:24.370 the same process 0:15:24.370,0:15:28.240 to the point where super thin 9.0 millimeters rope looked 0:15:28.240,0:15:31.360 completely fine after 500 cycles of 0:15:31.360,0:15:33.710 dragging it across the sharp edge... 0:15:33.710,0:15:35.360 This one looks quite good. 0:15:35.360,0:15:38.337 Like a little bit fuzzy but I would [br]definitely use it. 0:15:38.337,0:15:40.120 However much thicker 0:15:40.120,0:15:43.279 9.5 millimeters rope, but old 0:15:43.279,0:15:46.000 construction and no treatments, were 0:15:46.000,0:15:47.699 completely done. 0:15:48.380,0:15:51.839 My guess is five more falls and we snap it. 0:15:52.839,0:15:55.440 -Maybe not[br]-I think we have to increase, 0:15:55.440,0:15:57.559 otherwise... yeah let's increase. 0:15:57.559,0:16:00.000 Everybody wants harder falls but it's already 0:16:00.000,0:16:01.759 getting harder, we went from a two and a 0:16:01.759,0:16:04.047 half to three and a half. 0:16:04.047,0:16:06.300 To increase? 0:16:06.300,0:16:09.159 You can just dropping keep dropping it. [br]Yeah keep dropping it. 0:16:09.159,0:16:11.279 So I will get coffee 0:16:11.279,0:16:14.189 -what do you want? [br]-Coffee.[br]-Espresso? 0:16:14.189,0:16:15.519 -Lungo?[br]-Lungo if possible. 0:16:15.519,0:16:17.390 -Are you asking the viewer? [br]-With milk? 0:16:17.390,0:16:20.329 -Are you sending it to the viewers? [br]-You want a coffee? 0:16:20.329,0:16:23.040 Now one interesting observation I got while 0:16:23.040,0:16:25.759 I was making this intro animation, 0:16:25.759,0:16:27.839 which by the way took me multiple days 0:16:27.839,0:16:29.600 and multiple attempts, 0:16:29.600,0:16:32.720 was that while the rope is new, 0:16:32.720,0:16:35.360 the file glides over the rope very 0:16:35.360,0:16:37.920 smoothly and it's pretty hard to make 0:16:37.920,0:16:40.320 any damage to it. But once the rope 0:16:40.320,0:16:43.600 starts becoming fuzzy, it becomes easier 0:16:43.600,0:16:46.320 to make some extra damage so it felt 0:16:46.320,0:16:47.440 like the 0:16:47.440,0:16:49.839 fuzziness or the damage to the rope is 0:16:49.839,0:16:52.320 kind of exponential the worse it gets 0:16:52.320,0:16:55.440 the easier it is to make it even worse. 0:16:55.440,0:16:57.440 Oh yeah let's do again. Only six 0:16:57.440,0:16:59.279 strands left. 0:16:59.279,0:17:01.920 -(Offscreen) Whoah![br]-(Offcreen) So... okay 0:17:01.920,0:17:04.629 So you can come back already with your[br]coffee! 0:17:04.629,0:17:07.120 So the force went lower, but one 0:17:07.120,0:17:08.959 -strand snapped.[br]-(Offscreen) No, two! 0:17:08.959,0:17:11.520 Two snapped but the sound of the strand 0:17:11.520,0:17:13.439 snapping was (vocalizes) 0:17:13.439,0:17:16.160 Is it bad if I scream behind the camera? 0:17:16.160,0:17:17.760 It's not the sound that you want to hear 0:17:17.760,0:17:19.679 when you're out climbing. 0:17:19.679,0:17:23.199 Okay: the fun part. How fuzzy is too fuzzy 0:17:23.199,0:17:26.319 or how soft the rope is too soft? When 0:17:26.319,0:17:28.419 -should people actually cut it? [br]-I mean you 0:17:28.419,0:17:31.039 pull the rope through your hands to 0:17:31.039,0:17:33.280 check the ropes. This you should do on 0:17:33.280,0:17:35.120 -a regular basis. [br]-And what are you doing 0:17:35.120,0:17:37.039 -when you're pulling?[br]- Well, on the one hand 0:17:37.039,0:17:40.080 I feel the rope so I feel how the 0:17:40.080,0:17:43.360 rope behaves. If it's super soft, if it's 0:17:43.360,0:17:45.280 thicker, and at the same time you know 0:17:45.280,0:17:47.840 you you pull it over your finger and you 0:17:47.840,0:17:50.000 look at it so you do like a visual 0:17:50.000,0:17:51.660 inspection. 0:17:56.799,0:17:59.120 Beautiful rope. Would whip. 0:17:59.120,0:18:01.919 -Would you whip?[br]-You would whip. 0:18:01.919,0:18:04.880 Oh the force went lower again 0:18:04.880,0:18:06.720 so basically the less core strands we 0:18:06.720,0:18:08.760 have, the better the rope is. 0:18:08.760,0:18:10.880 The softer the catch 0:18:11.440,0:18:13.679 I wouldn't see it that way but... 0:18:13.679,0:18:15.679 If you want a soft catch just break the 0:18:15.679,0:18:16.559 rope. 0:18:16.559,0:18:18.880 So let's say I'm running my rope through 0:18:18.880,0:18:21.520 my hand and I find a spot which is 0:18:21.520,0:18:24.480 softer. So how do I know if it's already 0:18:24.480,0:18:26.614 bad or... 0:18:26.614,0:18:28.400 First consider the whole rope. I mean 0:18:28.400,0:18:30.320 if you have a really soft rope because 0:18:30.320,0:18:31.919 they're... I mean some ropes are 0:18:31.919,0:18:34.080 already soft when you you buy them in 0:18:34.080,0:18:36.240 the store. I would say that our ropes 0:18:36.240,0:18:38.880 are a little bit stiffer in general and 0:18:38.880,0:18:40.460 we do that to make them more 0:18:40.460,0:18:42.320 long-lasting but if your whole rope is 0:18:42.320,0:18:44.170 very soft and you have a spot which is 0:18:44.170,0:18:46.559 just a little bit softer, 0:18:46.559,0:18:48.880 I would not like say oh 0:18:48.880,0:18:50.960 that's super dangerous, but if you 0:18:50.960,0:18:51.679 have 0:18:51.679,0:18:53.600 the rope is generally really stiff and 0:18:53.600,0:18:56.000 then you have one spot with this ultra 0:18:56.000,0:18:57.440 soft then you know 0:18:57.440,0:19:00.320 something is not right there. And exactly 0:19:00.320,0:19:02.080 what's not right there 0:19:02.080,0:19:04.880 there are so many things that it[br]could be. 0:19:04.880,0:19:07.280 So as an example if I would be 0:19:07.280,0:19:09.760 just looking into this piece of the rope, 0:19:09.760,0:19:11.840 it would be pretty difficult to say how 0:19:11.840,0:19:15.315 soft it needs to be and if I should cut it. 0:19:15.315,0:19:18.559 But if I compare it to the middle of the 0:19:18.559,0:19:21.280 same rope, I can clearly see a big 0:19:21.280,0:19:24.240 difference. So this clearly is far from 0:19:24.240,0:19:26.400 what it used to be and it's better to 0:19:26.400,0:19:28.880 cut this end. And if you want some tips 0:19:28.880,0:19:31.539 on cutting ropes check out this video. 0:19:36.109,0:19:38.000 I don't think we can do another one. 0:19:38.000,0:19:39.919 Unfortunately the rope kept stretching 0:19:39.919,0:19:42.320 and stretching and stretching until we 0:19:42.320,0:19:44.559 almost reached the bottom of the drop 0:19:44.559,0:19:46.559 tower and we couldn't do any more 0:19:46.559,0:19:47.679 testing, 0:19:47.679,0:19:50.799 however we decided to show what happens 0:19:50.799,0:19:53.440 if you have 80 kilograms of mass hanging 0:19:53.440,0:19:56.320 on only core strands and you touch the 0:19:56.320,0:19:58.640 core strands with the knife. 0:19:58.640,0:20:00.960 Cut test 0:20:04.240,0:20:07.440 -It just barely touched it.[br]-What did you do?! 0:20:07.440,0:20:10.480 You went too long. 0:20:10.480,0:20:11.760 What happened? 0:20:11.760,0:20:14.400 But what happened now? 0:20:14.559,0:20:16.559 So it didn't break so I was right with 0:20:16.559,0:20:18.820 10 to 20 right? 0:20:18.820,0:20:21.360 -Actually yes.[br]-Yes thanks. 0:20:21.360,0:20:24.000 So basically what we got is 0:20:24.000,0:20:28.400 running very damaged rope on relatively 0:20:28.400,0:20:29.600 hard-ish... 0:20:29.600,0:20:32.159 -Maybe to normal fall?[br]-Yeah, real kN scenario. 0:20:32.159,0:20:35.200 -Ripped the sheath of the rope 0:20:35.200,0:20:37.120 in just two falls which is very 0:20:37.120,0:20:38.799 dangerous. But then it was good to see 0:20:38.799,0:20:41.039 that the rope did not snap 0:20:41.039,0:20:43.840 and only the core strands kept holding 0:20:43.860,0:20:47.310 for multiple more falls so that's good to know. 0:20:47.310,0:20:48.960 Pretty good safety margin 0:20:48.960,0:20:51.200 But when he touched barely with the 0:20:51.200,0:20:53.120 sharp knife the core strands he just 0:20:53.120,0:20:55.520 barely touched it it snapped 0:20:55.520,0:20:57.039 so if your 0:20:57.039,0:20:58.720 sheath gets away, 0:20:58.720,0:21:01.039 and then your rope runs across something 0:21:01.039,0:21:03.200 -sharp on the rock... [br]-Super dangerous. 0:21:03.200,0:21:04.240 Yeah 0:21:04.240,0:21:05.840 I think now we're coming to the second 0:21:05.840,0:21:07.919 scenario you wanna you wanna show when 0:21:07.919,0:21:10.400 -it comes to sharp edge scenarios...[br]-Yeah. 0:21:10.400,0:21:13.760 like the ropes don't have this high 0:21:13.760,0:21:16.159 safety margin. 0:21:16.159,0:21:18.720 Well! I hope that you are subscribed because 0:21:18.720,0:21:20.799 the next experiment that I'm gonna show 0:21:20.799,0:21:23.280 in the next video is gonna blow your 0:21:23.280,0:21:26.559 mind, and probably change a little bit 0:21:26.559,0:21:28.799 the way you care about your climbing 0:21:28.799,0:21:30.720 equipment. 0:21:30.720,0:21:34.720 Okay, now I need you to pee. 0:21:34.720,0:21:35.749 Come on.