0:00:03.280,0:00:04.607
Belaying devices.

0:00:04.607,0:00:07.284
There are so many different[br]belaying devices

0:00:07.284,0:00:11.280
nowadays on the market and in my hands.

0:00:11.280,0:00:13.440
And after this video you will be able

0:00:13.440,0:00:14.960
to pick any of them.

0:00:14.960,0:00:16.640
Not from my hands.

0:00:16.640,0:00:19.756
And you will know how it works [br]and how to use it.

0:00:19.756,0:00:23.661
So first of all, a belaying device[br]is simply a mechanism

0:00:23.661,0:00:24.975
which allows to control

0:00:24.975,0:00:26.960
the friction between your hand

0:00:26.960,0:00:28.320
and the climber.

0:00:28.320,0:00:29.519
Alright.

0:00:29.519,0:00:33.370
So here I hang and here I have almost

0:00:33.370,0:00:38.100
60 kilograms of force pulling [br]on this strand of the rope.

0:00:38.100,0:00:40.719
However for me to hold that

0:00:40.719,0:00:45.760
I'm only using about 6 to 7 [br]kilograms of force

0:00:45.760,0:00:47.440
on the brake side of the rope.

0:00:47.440,0:00:50.480
However if I would start raising

0:00:50.480,0:00:54.079
my brake hand up

0:00:54.079,0:00:56.670
the force needed to hold that

0:00:56.670,0:01:00.539
goes to 9 kilograms of force...

0:01:00.539,0:01:02.640
10...

0:01:02.640,0:01:05.120
12...

0:01:07.280,0:01:10.280
15...

0:01:17.040,0:01:21.040
So my max was around 25 kilograms of force

0:01:21.040,0:01:23.840
with two hands in this position.

0:01:23.840,0:01:27.094
That means that in this position [br]at this angle

0:01:27.094,0:01:30.140
I can not even hold my own weight[br]with two hands.

0:01:30.140,0:01:32.887
There is no even talking about one hand.

0:01:32.887,0:01:35.352
So now let's see how much[br]assistance I will get

0:01:35.352,0:01:39.110
if my rope strands are completely [br]parallel to each other.

0:01:39.110,0:01:42.059
So I will start pulling up

0:01:42.059,0:01:46.439
as hard as i can.

0:01:56.079,0:01:58.399
And so the answer is almost nothing.

0:01:58.399,0:01:59.943
Now to explain how that works

0:01:59.943,0:02:02.608
since there is so many [br]different belaying devices

0:02:02.608,0:02:05.972
I'm gonna group all of them [br]into different categories.

0:02:05.972,0:02:08.500
First one is tubular style devices.

0:02:08.500,0:02:11.590
That many mistakenly call them reverso.

0:02:11.590,0:02:14.440
Which is only this device - [br]Petzl Reverso.

0:02:14.440,0:02:18.480
Or ATC which is this Black Diamond ATC.

0:02:18.480,0:02:21.459
While Mammut calls this [br]Alpine Belaying Device. Simple.

0:02:21.459,0:02:25.450
So with tubes the more[br]I move my brake hand down

0:02:25.450,0:02:30.011
the more it squeezes the rope between [br]the carabiner and belaying device.

0:02:30.011,0:02:34.009
And also tubes have [br]a little groove in front of them.

0:02:34.009,0:02:37.089
Which even further pinches on the rope.

0:02:37.089,0:02:40.574
Plus as I pull down on the rope[br]it tilts the device

0:02:40.574,0:02:43.840
which creates extra angles [br]and extra friction.

0:02:43.840,0:02:46.380
So as we saw in my previous experiment

0:02:46.380,0:02:50.959
if my hand is at the [br]level of the belaying device or higher

0:02:50.959,0:02:53.120
the device creates very little friction.

0:02:53.120,0:02:55.257
So if the climber would fall

0:02:55.257,0:02:58.800
while my hand is [br]in this position or higher

0:02:58.800,0:03:01.365
there is a high chance [br]that my hand would simply

0:03:01.365,0:03:04.080
get sucked into the belaying device.

0:03:04.959,0:03:08.680
I got my hand pinched...

0:03:19.280,0:03:21.290
And then maybe i will hurt my hand

0:03:21.290,0:03:23.920
And let go off the rope.

0:03:23.920,0:03:25.920
So if you want to see how my hand is

0:03:25.920,0:03:27.750
getting sucked into belaying device

0:03:27.750,0:03:29.800
I already made a video about that.

0:03:29.800,0:03:32.908
Also worth mentioning is that [br]rope thickness or diameter

0:03:32.908,0:03:35.175
has a huge effect on how easily

0:03:35.175,0:03:37.610
the rope will go through belaying device.

0:03:37.610,0:03:39.519
And every belaying device has a

0:03:39.519,0:03:42.239
recommended range of rope thicknesses

0:03:42.239,0:03:44.580
which you can find [br]somewhere in the manuals

0:03:44.580,0:03:46.600
or sometimes on the device itself.

0:03:46.600,0:03:49.120
And this brings us to advantages

0:03:49.120,0:03:50.993
of tubular style devices.

0:03:50.993,0:03:55.193
First of all they work better with [br]wider range of rope diameters.

0:03:55.193,0:03:58.475
All the way from super thick gym ropes

0:03:58.475,0:04:01.000
to ultra skinny twin ropes.

0:04:01.000,0:04:03.509
On contrast if you would take a GriGri

0:04:03.509,0:04:06.058
it says that it's optimized to work

0:04:06.058,0:04:09.867
from 8.9 to 10.5 millimeters ropes.

0:04:09.867,0:04:11.680
But from my experience

0:04:11.680,0:04:14.319
anything from 10 millimeters and above

0:04:14.319,0:04:16.120
doesn't work that well anymore.

0:04:16.120,0:04:19.991
Yeah, there is this older GriGri[br]which works better with thicker ropes.

0:04:19.991,0:04:22.800
But that one doesn't work well [br]with thin ropes.

0:04:22.800,0:04:25.689
Next, tubes are super lightweight.

0:04:25.689,0:04:27.840
And they allow you to belay with two ropes

0:04:27.840,0:04:29.599
either double ropes or twin ropes.

0:04:29.599,0:04:31.981
And if you don't know[br]what's a double or twin rope

0:04:31.981,0:04:35.000
you should watch[br]my master class on the ropes.

0:04:35.000,0:04:37.562
Also with tubes you can make a soft catch

0:04:37.562,0:04:39.170
without moving yourself.

0:04:39.170,0:04:42.720
By allowing the rope [br]to slip through the device.

0:04:42.720,0:04:46.720
And in general tubes don't catch as hard

0:04:46.720,0:04:49.239
because there is always [br]a little bit of slippage

0:04:49.239,0:04:51.840
which reduces the peak forces.

0:04:51.840,0:04:54.240
Which might be very beneficial[br]for trad climbers.

0:04:54.240,0:04:56.560
Since it reduces the chance

0:04:56.560,0:04:59.080
that the pieces of the gear will fall out.

0:04:59.080,0:05:02.409
And finally tubes have [br]this loop at the top.

0:05:02.409,0:05:05.515
And that allows you [br]to set this device in a guide mode

0:05:05.515,0:05:08.693
in which you can even belay [br]two following climbers

0:05:08.693,0:05:13.440
coming up on top rope simultaneously

0:05:13.440,0:05:16.231
simon... simultaneously.

0:05:16.231,0:05:18.364
and all of that are the reasons

0:05:18.364,0:05:21.370
why tubes are still very commonly used

0:05:21.370,0:05:24.438
in traditional or alpine [br]or multi-pitch scenarios.

0:05:24.438,0:05:27.680
However none of that is really useful

0:05:27.680,0:05:30.258
if you're just doing [br]single pitch sport climbing.

0:05:30.258,0:05:32.399
And the biggest disadvantage of tubes

0:05:32.399,0:05:34.300
is of course that they don't lock

0:05:34.300,0:05:37.600
meaning if you would let go the rope.

0:05:37.600,0:05:39.262
Which by the way brings us

0:05:39.262,0:05:41.000
to the main rule of belaying.

0:05:41.000,0:05:43.520
If you are in need of number two

0:05:43.520,0:05:46.479
and you have a choice to poop your pants

0:05:46.479,0:05:50.400
or to let go the brake side of the rope -

0:05:50.400,0:05:52.059
you poop your pants!

0:05:52.059,0:05:55.889
Meaning in no circumstances [br]you're allowed to lose control

0:05:55.889,0:05:57.440
of the brake side of the rope.

0:05:57.440,0:05:59.600
And that's by the way also equally true

0:05:59.600,0:06:03.115
for assisted building devices [br]but we are gonna talk next.

0:06:03.115,0:06:06.530
So assisted devices [br]have an ability to lock

0:06:06.530,0:06:08.485
in case the climber falls.

0:06:08.485,0:06:11.445
Which obviously adds a lot of safety.

0:06:11.445,0:06:14.804
For example if you would [br]knock a rock while you're climbing

0:06:14.804,0:06:19.039
and that rock would [br]fall on your belayer's head...

0:06:19.039,0:06:20.801
And that's why we wear a helmet!

0:06:20.801,0:06:24.235
So first of all your belayer would [br]really like to have a helmet.

0:06:24.235,0:06:27.159
But you as a climber [br]would really love that

0:06:27.159,0:06:30.369
there would be one of these [br]assisted devices down there.

0:06:30.369,0:06:33.960
And in fact my own skin[br]was once saved by this guy.

0:06:33.960,0:06:35.564
When I did a little fall

0:06:35.564,0:06:37.265
and my belayer did not notice

0:06:37.265,0:06:39.573
that there was a rock next to her leg.

0:06:39.573,0:06:41.876
And while she was flying forward,

0:06:41.876,0:06:44.907
her leg got stuck, and she spun around,

0:06:44.907,0:06:46.784
and hit her back to the wall.

0:06:46.784,0:06:49.459
And let both of the hands go.

0:06:49.459,0:06:54.400
So this guy is basically a reason why [br]I'm still here.

0:06:54.400,0:06:56.180
And making these videos.

0:06:56.180,0:06:59.280
Now super important that number two rule

0:06:59.280,0:07:01.355
is also applicable for these guys.

0:07:01.355,0:07:04.011
After all they are called assisted

0:07:04.011,0:07:07.212
so don't treat them as fully automatic.

0:07:07.212,0:07:10.880
Because there are cases [br]where they will not lock.

0:07:10.880,0:07:13.759
Apart from safety this locking is also

0:07:13.759,0:07:15.849
super useful in long belays

0:07:15.849,0:07:18.527
If your climber is hanging [br]on the rope a lot

0:07:18.527,0:07:20.520
and projecting some hard moves.

0:07:20.520,0:07:22.559
So if we compare this to the tube

0:07:22.559,0:07:26.720
even in the most mechanically [br]advantaged position

0:07:26.720,0:07:29.280
you will still need to hold on the rope.

0:07:29.280,0:07:32.733
And in very long belays [br]this will get tiring.

0:07:32.733,0:07:35.214
While with assisted devices [br]it's pretty chill.

0:07:35.214,0:07:37.780
You are literally just [br]sitting in your harness.

0:07:37.780,0:07:42.880
OK, so the first group of [br]assisted belaying devices

0:07:42.880,0:07:45.073
is called assisted tubers.

0:07:45.073,0:07:48.412
That's because they look like tubes

0:07:48.412,0:07:51.403
and they work similarly to regular tubes

0:07:51.403,0:07:52.960
where we squeeze the rope

0:07:52.960,0:07:55.759
between the carabiner and the device.

0:07:55.759,0:07:57.682
Except that they have a shape

0:07:57.682,0:08:00.440
that shifts the carabiner in position

0:08:00.440,0:08:03.404
where it squeezes on the rope so hard

0:08:03.404,0:08:05.481
that it completely locks it off.

0:08:05.481,0:08:08.604
A little disadvantage of assisted tubes

0:08:08.604,0:08:11.320
is that once in locked position

0:08:11.320,0:08:14.160
you cannot quickly [br]feed slack to the climber.

0:08:14.160,0:08:17.403
You need a special action [br]to unlock the device

0:08:17.403,0:08:19.516
before you can feed the rope

0:08:19.516,0:08:21.425
For example with Click Up

0:08:21.425,0:08:23.225
it even clicks

0:08:23.225,0:08:25.219
and now I cannot do anything.

0:08:25.219,0:08:27.909
I literally need to unclick it.

0:08:27.909,0:08:29.531
And now I can continue belaying.

0:08:29.531,0:08:31.340
Now one really important thing

0:08:31.340,0:08:33.708
that not many know about assisted tubers

0:08:33.708,0:08:36.423
That they suffer from the same problem

0:08:36.423,0:08:38.334
as regular tubes

0:08:38.334,0:08:42.320
meaning that [br]if your hand is in up position

0:08:42.320,0:08:44.430
the device will not lock.

0:08:44.430,0:08:45.987
As you can see it's not locking

0:08:45.987,0:08:48.720
And if the climber would take a fall

0:08:48.720,0:08:51.040
the rope would just slide from my hand

0:08:51.040,0:08:54.160
and burn it. Oh, it's already burning.

0:08:54.160,0:08:56.540
However unlike regular tubes

0:08:56.540,0:08:58.240
Where you can get your hands sucked

0:08:58.240,0:08:59.963
even at very big angles

0:08:59.963,0:09:01.661
most assisted tubers

0:09:01.661,0:09:03.930
will only fail at the angles

0:09:03.930,0:09:06.272
that are very extremely high up.

0:09:06.272,0:09:08.519
And some actually don't fail at all.

0:09:08.519,0:09:10.879
I'm actually gonna make a separate video

0:09:10.879,0:09:12.699
where I was experimenting

0:09:12.699,0:09:15.830
at which angles which devices lock.

0:09:15.830,0:09:17.569
So stay tuned for that.

0:09:17.569,0:09:20.152
I can't put everything [br]into one video because

0:09:20.152,0:09:23.040
I need you to subscribe.

0:09:23.040,0:09:26.109
But independently of which [br]belaying device you're using

0:09:26.109,0:09:29.583
just develop a habit of keeping [br]your brake hand down.

0:09:29.583,0:09:32.730
Also good to know for people [br]who climb with two ropes

0:09:32.730,0:09:34.800
is that there are assisted tubers

0:09:34.800,0:09:36.389
that work with two ropes.

0:09:36.389,0:09:37.879
In case you go on a multi-pitch

0:09:37.879,0:09:41.439
and you want extra safety [br]you have some options.

0:09:41.439,0:09:44.320
All right let's move on to [br]cam assisted devices.

0:09:44.320,0:09:46.345
I'm sure everybody knows GriGri.

0:09:46.345,0:09:48.500
But there are more devices like

0:09:48.500,0:09:51.079
Trango Vergo and Birdie and others.

0:09:51.079,0:09:52.378
And the way they work is

0:09:52.378,0:09:54.658
that they have a camming [br]mechanism inside

0:09:54.658,0:09:56.308
which pinches on the rope.

0:09:56.308,0:09:58.197
Now in the case of GriGri

0:09:58.197,0:10:01.680
the cam is spring-loaded [br]meaning that as soon as

0:10:01.680,0:10:04.661
there is no more load [br]on the climber's end of the rope

0:10:04.661,0:10:06.399
the cam will disengage.

0:10:06.399,0:10:08.715
And you can belay normally.

0:10:08.715,0:10:10.397
While in the case of Vergo

0:10:10.397,0:10:11.760
it doesn't have a spring.

0:10:11.760,0:10:14.160
And you need to position the device

0:10:14.160,0:10:15.920
in a certain way

0:10:15.920,0:10:17.940
to be able to feed the slack.

0:10:17.940,0:10:19.977
All right back to GriGri.

0:10:19.977,0:10:22.219
If you press on GriGri's cam

0:10:22.219,0:10:25.200
but you ignore the rule number two

0:10:25.200,0:10:28.464
and you don't hold[br]the break side of the rope

0:10:28.464,0:10:32.279
this can happen...

0:10:37.920,0:10:40.880
Also if you ignore rule number two

0:10:40.880,0:10:45.200
and your GriGri gets trapped [br]in the first piece of gear

0:10:45.200,0:10:47.839
this can happen

0:10:51.360,0:10:53.279
Many of you asked

0:10:53.279,0:10:56.158
if this problem of [br]trapping in the first bolt

0:10:56.158,0:10:58.479
where it disengages the cam

0:10:58.479,0:11:01.981
is also applicable for assisted tubers.

0:11:01.981,0:11:04.780
So with most assisted devices

0:11:04.780,0:11:07.120
the answer is unlikely.

0:11:07.120,0:11:09.920
Since there is no cam that i could press

0:11:09.920,0:11:12.560
to disengage this locking.

0:11:12.560,0:11:16.079
Only if i would press on this end

0:11:16.079,0:11:18.800
it kind of slips a bit but still

0:11:18.800,0:11:21.600
stays locked.

0:11:25.920,0:11:29.120
This Click Up

0:11:29.120,0:11:33.040
doesn't even lock [br]if i don't hold the rope.

0:11:33.040,0:11:37.760
Amazing. Number two rule. Hold the rope.

0:11:38.959,0:11:40.480
Yeah.

0:11:40.480,0:11:44.560
There's no way I can unlock this

0:11:44.560,0:11:47.440
in this manner.

0:11:47.680,0:11:50.918
So no assisted tubers [br]don't have this risk.

0:11:50.918,0:11:53.040
Now this is a little future me

0:11:53.040,0:11:56.280
after I was editing this part [br]that you just seen.

0:11:56.280,0:11:58.480
And I saw this I realized that

0:11:58.480,0:12:00.960
I was using a wrong carabiner.

0:12:00.960,0:12:05.388
Turns out Click Ups need [br]their own specific carabiners

0:12:05.388,0:12:07.860
And that's a reason why [br]you should read the manual.

0:12:07.860,0:12:12.450
So that's the carabiner [br]you should use for a Click Up.

0:12:12.450,0:12:15.440
Let's see if it locks.

0:12:16.399,0:12:19.120
No difference.

0:12:19.760,0:12:22.240
So number two rule.

0:12:22.240,0:12:23.630
And read the manual

0:12:23.630,0:12:26.230
because some of [br]the assisted delaying devices

0:12:26.230,0:12:28.820
require you a specific belaying carabiner.

0:12:28.820,0:12:30.640
I don't know if it's just marketing

0:12:30.640,0:12:33.488
or the shape of the carabiner [br]is slightly different.

0:12:33.488,0:12:36.500
Just use what the manufacturers recommend.

0:12:36.500,0:12:38.484
And finally there is this guy.

0:12:38.484,0:12:41.120
It's a Revo from Wild Country.

0:12:41.120,0:12:43.782
It's an inertia based mechanism.

0:12:43.782,0:12:46.560
Which will lock once the climber starts

0:12:46.560,0:12:49.346
falling faster than 4 meters per second.

0:12:49.346,0:12:51.753
So if i pull slowly it doesn't lock.

0:12:51.753,0:12:56.320
I need to pull really fast [br]in order for it to lock.

0:12:56.320,0:12:57.940
So my goal of this video

0:12:57.940,0:13:00.320
is not to compare all [br]of the delaying devices

0:13:00.320,0:13:02.639
on the market and [br]tell you which one to buy.

0:13:02.639,0:13:03.755
Sorry for that.

0:13:03.755,0:13:09.010
Every device have its own [br]pros and cons, haters and lovers.

0:13:09.010,0:13:10.299
Full internet of that.

0:13:10.299,0:13:12.997
However if you would want such comparison

0:13:12.997,0:13:14.969
let me know in the comments and maybe

0:13:14.969,0:13:17.810
I will make a separate video on that.

0:13:17.810,0:13:19.870
OK now I have a tip for you

0:13:19.870,0:13:21.491
that will make your life [br]a little bit easier

0:13:21.491,0:13:23.790
and maybe will even save your ass

0:13:23.790,0:13:25.040
on a multi-pitch one day.

0:13:25.040,0:13:26.160
Humans,

0:13:26.160,0:13:28.409
we have two hands normally

0:13:28.409,0:13:32.399
and handling more than [br]two objects in two hands

0:13:32.399,0:13:33.430
is not ideal.

0:13:33.430,0:13:36.130
What I often see that people[br]take their belaying device,

0:13:36.130,0:13:37.773
their carabiner, the rope...

0:13:37.773,0:13:39.879
That's already three objects by the way.

0:13:39.879,0:13:42.639
And they try to connect everything

0:13:42.639,0:13:44.959
in space

0:13:44.959,0:13:48.440
like so...

0:13:49.440,0:13:50.443
Ready to belay.

0:13:50.443,0:13:52.170
So doing this

0:13:52.170,0:13:53.694
will greatly increase the chance

0:13:53.694,0:13:55.469
that one day you will drop something.

0:13:55.469,0:13:57.359
You will be trying to connect something

0:13:57.359,0:13:59.360
and then suddenly whoops...

0:13:59.360,0:14:01.010
Your belaying device flies down.

0:14:01.010,0:14:02.444
If you're not on a multi-pitch

0:14:02.444,0:14:03.994
if you're standing on the ground

0:14:03.994,0:14:05.279
that's not a big deal.

0:14:05.279,0:14:07.680
However if you drop your belaying device

0:14:07.680,0:14:09.199
on a multi-pitch

0:14:09.199,0:14:10.509
you are in big trouble.

0:14:10.509,0:14:12.696
So this is what you do to avoid that.

0:14:12.696,0:14:14.275
Normally your belaying device

0:14:14.275,0:14:15.920
will live with your carabiner

0:14:15.920,0:14:17.760
somewhere on the harness.

0:14:17.760,0:14:18.853
So step one.

0:14:18.853,0:14:22.422
You take both of them[br]together as one unit.

0:14:22.422,0:14:24.848
So I'm carrying only one unit.

0:14:24.848,0:14:28.800
And you immediately connect it [br]to belaying loop.

0:14:28.800,0:14:31.279
So you cannot drop anything right now,

0:14:31.279,0:14:32.316
everything is safe.

0:14:32.316,0:14:34.391
Step two. You take a bite of rope

0:14:34.391,0:14:37.600
and you insert into your belaying device.

0:14:37.600,0:14:40.284
Keep in mind of [br]the orientation of the rope

0:14:40.284,0:14:42.320
which end has to go to the climber

0:14:42.320,0:14:44.340
which end is your break hand.

0:14:44.340,0:14:45.618
If you're not sure

0:14:45.618,0:14:48.079
every belaying device has an image

0:14:48.079,0:14:49.496
on the side of it.

0:14:49.496,0:14:51.040
Which will remind you that.

0:14:51.040,0:14:53.696
And next. Open your carabiner

0:14:53.696,0:14:56.399
and hook your rope together

0:14:56.399,0:14:58.480
with the belaying device.

0:14:58.480,0:15:01.440
So at no point there was a chance for me

0:15:01.440,0:15:02.690
to drop anything.

0:15:02.690,0:15:04.720
And once you're done belaying

0:15:04.720,0:15:05.600
you simply reverse the process.

0:15:05.600,0:15:07.670
Where you open the carabiner,

0:15:07.670,0:15:08.887
you unhook the rope.

0:15:08.887,0:15:10.570
But you hook the belaying device.

0:15:10.570,0:15:13.351
And then you simply can [br]just pull out the rope.

0:15:13.351,0:15:16.480
And your belaying device stays[br]on your harness with the carabiner.

0:15:16.480,0:15:19.650
If you want to put it somewhere else [br]you put it somewhere else.

0:15:19.650,0:15:21.280
And the same works with assisted tubers.

0:15:21.280,0:15:22.800
So step one.

0:15:22.800,0:15:25.682
Connect your belaying device [br]to your harness,

0:15:25.682,0:15:27.206
take a bite of rope,

0:15:27.206,0:15:31.519
put that bite of rope [br]into belaying device,

0:15:31.519,0:15:36.399
open the carabiner and hook the rope [br]and belaying device together.

0:15:36.399,0:15:39.510
Now in case of the GriGri [br]it's slightly different.

0:15:39.510,0:15:41.513
So as always step one

0:15:41.513,0:15:44.092
clip your belaying device[br]to your belay loop.

0:15:44.092,0:15:45.627
So you cannot drop anything.

0:15:45.627,0:15:47.249
Now if you're not on a multi-pitch

0:15:47.249,0:15:49.281
and dropping your GriGri[br]is not a big deal

0:15:49.281,0:15:51.143
you simply take off your grigri,

0:15:51.143,0:15:53.199
open it in this cool way,

0:15:53.199,0:15:56.720
insert the rope, and clip it back. Simple.

0:15:56.720,0:15:59.759
Now if you are on a multi-pitch

0:15:59.759,0:16:01.036
there is a technique.

0:16:01.036,0:16:02.533
So this is what you do.

0:16:02.533,0:16:05.680
You open your carabiner

0:16:05.680,0:16:09.182
and hook only half of the GriGri together.

0:16:09.182,0:16:10.800
Then you can open the GriGri.

0:16:10.800,0:16:12.770
And it's connected to your carabiner.

0:16:12.770,0:16:13.831
You cannot drop it.

0:16:13.831,0:16:15.289
You insert the rope.

0:16:15.289,0:16:17.360
You close it.

0:16:17.360,0:16:19.600
And then you open your carabiner again

0:16:19.600,0:16:21.759
and hook the grigri back.

0:16:21.759,0:16:24.823
So this is as safe as you can do [br]with the grigri

0:16:24.823,0:16:25.953
on a multi-pitch.

0:16:25.953,0:16:27.691
And obviously once you're done

0:16:27.691,0:16:31.759
it's just simply reversing the process of

0:16:31.759,0:16:34.839
doing this

0:16:34.839,0:16:37.519
and doing that.

0:16:37.519,0:16:39.133
OK so I hope that by now

0:16:39.133,0:16:41.010
I gave you enough examples

0:16:41.010,0:16:43.448
how not to use belaying devices.

0:16:43.448,0:16:46.430
And now i'm gonna show you[br]proper techniques.

0:16:46.430,0:16:48.079
The good part is that

0:16:48.079,0:16:50.312
no matter what belaying device you use

0:16:50.312,0:16:52.714
good belaying techniques don't change.

0:16:52.714,0:16:55.230
There are slight differences[br]that i'm gonna mention.

0:16:55.230,0:16:57.440
But for majority it's the same.

0:16:57.440,0:16:58.320
All right.

0:16:58.320,0:16:59.739
So I hope that by now

0:16:59.739,0:17:02.974
number two rule is [br]strongly embedded into you.

0:17:02.974,0:17:04.731
However if for some reason

0:17:04.731,0:17:06.977
you really need to go hands-free

0:17:06.977,0:17:09.520
you can tie a backup knot

0:17:09.520,0:17:12.400
at your brake end. Like so.

0:17:12.400,0:17:14.640
And this is totally fine.

0:17:14.640,0:17:16.799
In case something happens and the rope

0:17:16.799,0:17:18.400
would slip all the way

0:17:18.400,0:17:20.400
the GriGri will lock.

0:17:20.400,0:17:22.040
However in the case of tube

0:17:22.040,0:17:23.299
it's slightly different.

0:17:23.299,0:17:25.120
If you would just simply

0:17:25.120,0:17:27.039
tie a knot here.

0:17:27.039,0:17:28.556
And the climber would fall.

0:17:28.556,0:17:29.660
There is a chance that

0:17:29.660,0:17:31.970
this knot will get jammed

0:17:31.970,0:17:33.717
in your belaying device so hard

0:17:33.717,0:17:37.675
that you will have trouble to unjam it.

0:17:37.675,0:17:39.740
Let's use a slightly different carabiner

0:17:39.740,0:17:42.172
so it's easier for you [br]to see what's happening.

0:17:42.172,0:17:44.510
So in the case of tube

0:17:44.510,0:17:45.793
you take a bite of rope

0:17:45.793,0:17:47.940
and then you take another bite of rope

0:17:47.940,0:17:50.559
and put through the first one

0:17:50.559,0:17:52.640
and you make it tight.

0:17:52.640,0:17:55.840
And make sure that[br]this loop is long enough.

0:17:55.840,0:17:56.960
Like so.

0:17:56.960,0:17:59.489
This will hold but this is not enough.

0:17:59.489,0:18:02.149
To make it extra safe

0:18:02.149,0:18:05.316
you tie in back up knot here.

0:18:05.316,0:18:07.292
So now i can go hands-free.

0:18:07.292,0:18:09.363
And in case my climber takes a fall

0:18:09.363,0:18:10.700
this will hold him.

0:18:10.700,0:18:13.200
And if i want to release all of that

0:18:13.200,0:18:15.840
hold the brake side of the rope,

0:18:15.840,0:18:19.200
untie the top backup knot,

0:18:19.200,0:18:22.799
and start pulling the rope

0:18:22.799,0:18:25.440
until you have a little loop left.

0:18:25.440,0:18:27.440
At this point inform your climber that

0:18:27.440,0:18:28.400
he might

0:18:28.400,0:18:30.160
feel a little bump

0:18:30.160,0:18:32.480
and tug fast.

0:18:32.480,0:18:34.280
Like so. If you do this correctly

0:18:34.280,0:18:36.227
your climber will not go down at all.

0:18:36.227,0:18:40.559
Now if you're not familiar [br]with slip slap slap...

0:18:40.559,0:18:43.439
this technique - good .

0:18:43.439,0:18:46.270
You can safely [br]ignore my next sentence.

0:18:46.270,0:18:48.325
However if you're using that technique

0:18:48.325,0:18:51.448
I would strongly advise you to reconsider.

0:18:51.448,0:18:53.000
Because in the case of the fall

0:18:53.000,0:18:54.605
your hand might get sucked

0:18:54.605,0:18:55.860
into the bellying device

0:18:55.860,0:18:57.770
faster than you might think.

0:18:57.770,0:18:59.600
So as a good rule of thumb keep

0:18:59.600,0:19:01.952
your break hand always down.

0:19:01.952,0:19:06.250
And do any hand swapping or sliding there.

0:19:06.250,0:19:07.788
So now a little disclaimer.

0:19:07.788,0:19:08.720
I'm gonna show you

0:19:08.720,0:19:11.097
three different techniques[br]of taking slack.

0:19:11.097,0:19:14.322
And depending on [br]where you are on the planet

0:19:14.322,0:19:15.360
some of them

0:19:15.360,0:19:17.981
might be not considered as acceptable.

0:19:17.981,0:19:19.457
So stick with me

0:19:19.457,0:19:20.603
I'm gonna explain.

0:19:20.603,0:19:23.360
Because i went really deep[br]in this rabbit hole.

0:19:23.360,0:19:25.303
So all the techniques start the same.

0:19:25.303,0:19:26.940
Your left hand reaches up

0:19:26.940,0:19:28.639
and pulls down on the rope.

0:19:28.639,0:19:30.613
While at the same time your break hand

0:19:30.613,0:19:33.280
pushes forward and locks it down.

0:19:33.280,0:19:35.360
And now at this point you need to bring

0:19:35.360,0:19:37.763
your right hand up the rope.

0:19:37.763,0:19:40.696
And there are [br]three different ways to do so.

0:19:40.696,0:19:41.600
The first one.

0:19:41.600,0:19:43.210
It's more popular in Europe.

0:19:43.210,0:19:45.063
And it's called hand over hand

0:19:45.063,0:19:46.640
or V to the knee.

0:19:46.640,0:19:49.515
So you simply take your left hand

0:19:49.515,0:19:52.560
and go over your right hand

0:19:52.560,0:19:53.760
and then right hand goes

0:19:53.760,0:19:54.875
over your left hand.

0:19:54.875,0:19:57.095
That's why it's called hand over hand.

0:19:57.095,0:19:59.936
So you take, .... hand over hand,

0:19:59.936,0:20:03.490
you take, ... hand over hand.

0:20:03.490,0:20:05.550
So I find myself using this technique

0:20:05.550,0:20:08.169
when the climber wants me[br]to take really hard

0:20:08.169,0:20:10.110
as he's moving up the rope.

0:20:10.110,0:20:11.566
Because you're always

0:20:11.566,0:20:13.529
pulling down on the rope.

0:20:13.529,0:20:15.039
You can...

0:20:15.039,0:20:16.908
It kind of feels like

0:20:16.908,0:20:19.039
climbing up the rope.

0:20:19.039,0:20:21.840
Very comfortable.

0:20:22.559,0:20:24.400
So the problem with this technique is

0:20:24.400,0:20:26.339
that when people get really good

0:20:26.339,0:20:29.200
and can do it really fast

0:20:29.200,0:20:32.320
they start letting go the brake hand

0:20:32.320,0:20:35.768
before the left hand goes [br]into the locking position.

0:20:35.768,0:20:36.884
So we do this.

0:20:36.884,0:20:40.400
We take this, let go already,

0:20:40.400,0:20:42.525
and then go into locking position.

0:20:42.525,0:20:44.561
If the climber would fall

0:20:44.561,0:20:46.990
in the moment where you let go this

0:20:46.990,0:20:49.785
and you don't lock the hand down

0:20:49.785,0:20:52.290
you probably know what would happen.

0:20:52.290,0:20:54.240
So obviously a simple solution -

0:20:54.240,0:20:55.039
lock,

0:20:55.039,0:20:56.903
and then in the locking position

0:20:56.903,0:20:58.347
do any hand swapping.

0:20:58.347,0:21:00.399
And another thing you need to be aware of

0:21:00.399,0:21:01.919
that sometimes if the

0:21:01.919,0:21:03.769
climber drops a bunch of slack

0:21:03.769,0:21:05.695
your belaying device falls down.

0:21:05.695,0:21:07.511
And here you need to be careful

0:21:07.511,0:21:09.440
to not take your left

0:21:09.440,0:21:11.669
hand over the belaying device.

0:21:11.669,0:21:13.553
Otherwise if you do so

0:21:13.553,0:21:15.382
and the climber falls

0:21:15.382,0:21:18.952
your hand gets into this awkward position.

0:21:18.952,0:21:21.280
So instead you reach [br]under your belaying device

0:21:21.280,0:21:23.150
and you grab the rope.

0:21:23.150,0:21:25.152
And now if the climber would fall

0:21:25.152,0:21:26.758
everything would be fine.

0:21:26.758,0:21:29.150
All right. Next technique is called PBUS.

0:21:29.150,0:21:31.290
Which is more commonly used in America.

0:21:31.290,0:21:33.430
Which means Pull, Break...

0:21:33.430,0:21:36.480
So basically the same stuff, as before.

0:21:36.480,0:21:40.080
But now instead of taking over the hand

0:21:40.080,0:21:42.888
you take Under and Slide.

0:21:42.888,0:21:46.480
So Pull, Brake, Under, Slide.

0:21:46.480,0:21:49.176
Pull Brake Under Slide.

0:21:49.176,0:21:50.920
So the benefit of this technique

0:21:50.920,0:21:53.624
is your strong hand never leaves the rope.

0:21:53.624,0:21:55.738
A little drawback of this technique

0:21:55.738,0:21:58.116
is when you have weight on the rope,

0:21:58.116,0:22:00.240
and you're trying to take hard,

0:22:00.240,0:22:02.880
now sliding up this hand

0:22:02.880,0:22:05.530
is not as comfortable as

0:22:05.530,0:22:09.520
in hand over hand technique.

0:22:09.520,0:22:12.000
so at some point as you will be

0:22:12.000,0:22:14.799
practicing your p-bus technique you will

0:22:14.799,0:22:17.520
realize that you don't actually need to

0:22:17.520,0:22:19.919
bring your left hand down there in order

0:22:19.919,0:22:23.120
to bring your big hand up you can simply

0:22:23.120,0:22:24.799
slide it up

0:22:24.799,0:22:27.039
and this is a third technique which is

0:22:27.039,0:22:29.520
called a tunnel technique and since your

0:22:29.520,0:22:32.320
left hand never leaves this rope

0:22:32.320,0:22:34.080
it's the most efficient technique

0:22:34.080,0:22:36.320
because you can always switch between

0:22:36.320,0:22:39.600
taking slack and giving slack instantly

0:22:39.600,0:22:42.559
so no matter in which moment of taking

0:22:42.559,0:22:45.360
slack i am i can always give slack

0:22:45.360,0:22:47.600
and contrary any other technique where

0:22:47.600,0:22:49.600
my left hand leaves

0:22:49.600,0:22:52.240
now it needs to go back in order for me

0:22:52.240,0:22:55.039
to give slack so it's an extra action

0:22:55.039,0:22:57.280
also tunnel technique is the best for

0:22:57.280,0:23:00.000
taking small amounts of slack

0:23:00.000,0:23:01.919
if i would try to take a small amount of

0:23:01.919,0:23:04.240
slack continuously with any other

0:23:04.240,0:23:06.559
technique it's

0:23:06.559,0:23:08.480
a lot of hand

0:23:08.480,0:23:09.840
movements

0:23:09.840,0:23:11.919
while the tunnel technique it's very

0:23:11.919,0:23:13.440
relaxed

0:23:13.440,0:23:15.600
and that's why it's the most efficient

0:23:15.600,0:23:18.080
technique however you might know or

0:23:18.080,0:23:20.159
maybe you don't this technique is

0:23:20.159,0:23:23.120
actually not considered acceptable in

0:23:23.120,0:23:25.120
some parts of the planet

0:23:25.120,0:23:27.760
with the argument that during the moment

0:23:27.760,0:23:30.080
where you slide the hand up

0:23:30.080,0:23:32.320
you don't have a firm grip on the brake

0:23:32.320,0:23:34.799
hand and during the fall maybe you will

0:23:34.799,0:23:37.280
not be able to catch the fall to which

0:23:37.280,0:23:39.600
here is my arguments

0:23:39.600,0:23:42.320
first of all if you use any assisted

0:23:42.320,0:23:45.600
belaying device you don't even need any

0:23:45.600,0:23:47.840
hard grip on the brake side of the rope

0:23:47.840,0:23:52.159
any light tug will make the device lock

0:23:52.159,0:23:54.799
so this is not an issue immediately now

0:23:54.799,0:23:57.200
if you are using a tube i actually went

0:23:57.200,0:23:59.440
out and did an experiment on this where

0:23:59.440,0:24:01.760
i asked inexperienced belayers to keep

0:24:01.760,0:24:04.640
moving the hand up and down while i was

0:24:04.640,0:24:07.120
distracting them and the climber was

0:24:07.120,0:24:10.159
taking unexpected falls for them

0:24:10.159,0:24:12.400
so stay tuned for that it's gonna be

0:24:12.400,0:24:14.159
really crazy and really interesting

0:24:14.159,0:24:16.720
episode but in general when sliding the

0:24:16.720,0:24:19.200
hand up don't make a big tunnel i don't

0:24:19.200,0:24:20.640
like that this technique is actually

0:24:20.640,0:24:22.400
called a tunnel method

0:24:22.400,0:24:25.200
it shouldn't be a tunnel you're barely

0:24:25.200,0:24:27.840
opening the hand just barely enough for

0:24:27.840,0:24:30.320
it to slide up the rope and if you are a

0:24:30.320,0:24:32.559
beginner it's really good idea to start

0:24:32.559,0:24:35.120
practicing with pbus technique because

0:24:35.120,0:24:37.520
you will be sliding your hand up the

0:24:37.520,0:24:39.039
rope a lot

0:24:39.039,0:24:42.159
with the backup of your other hand

0:24:42.159,0:24:44.240
and you will learn the feeling of the

0:24:44.240,0:24:46.640
rope going through your hand so start

0:24:46.640,0:24:49.200
with this and once you get really

0:24:49.200,0:24:51.200
comfortable with this

0:24:51.200,0:24:53.600
not bringing the left hand down and just

0:24:53.600,0:24:56.400
doing this will feel very natural by

0:24:56.400,0:24:58.000
that point

0:24:58.000,0:24:59.600
and just to make sure that i'm not

0:24:59.600,0:25:01.760
missing something in regards of safety

0:25:01.760,0:25:03.600
of these three techniques i wrote an

0:25:03.600,0:25:06.960
email to about 25 different climbing

0:25:06.960,0:25:09.120
safety related organizations and

0:25:09.120,0:25:11.360
associations and asked them to comment

0:25:11.360,0:25:13.440
on these techniques not all of them

0:25:13.440,0:25:15.919
replied unfortunately however out of

0:25:15.919,0:25:18.480
those who replied none of them said

0:25:18.480,0:25:20.880
anything against of any particular

0:25:20.880,0:25:23.200
technique so as long as you follow the

0:25:23.200,0:25:25.760
basic guidelines of proper belaying you

0:25:25.760,0:25:27.919
will be fine maybe with an exception if

0:25:27.919,0:25:29.440
you're in the united states and you need

0:25:29.440,0:25:32.080
to take a delaying exam then you might

0:25:32.080,0:25:35.039
be forced to use the pibas and few more

0:25:35.039,0:25:36.640
mistakes that people do when they're

0:25:36.640,0:25:39.360
taking slack first of all they take the

0:25:39.360,0:25:43.760
slack like this or like this

0:25:43.760,0:25:46.320
so unless you are using a assisted

0:25:46.320,0:25:48.320
building device and you're guaranteed

0:25:48.320,0:25:51.279
that that device will lock at this angle

0:25:51.279,0:25:53.440
which i will make a separate video on

0:25:53.440,0:25:56.000
that you might be in trouble second

0:25:56.000,0:25:58.559
mistake is people hold

0:25:58.559,0:26:01.039
both strands of the rope with the left

0:26:01.039,0:26:04.480
hand they do something like this

0:26:04.480,0:26:06.960
the reason why they do this is to

0:26:06.960,0:26:09.279
prevent the belaying device from falling

0:26:09.279,0:26:12.159
down there however to fix that you don't

0:26:12.159,0:26:14.000
need to hold both strands of the rope

0:26:14.000,0:26:15.919
you can just simply hold one strand of

0:26:15.919,0:26:17.600
the rope and you will have

0:26:17.600,0:26:20.640
exactly the same result

0:26:20.640,0:26:22.320
okay that's a lot of talking about

0:26:22.320,0:26:24.559
taking slack i just felt that that's the

0:26:24.559,0:26:27.200
most important part and the rest will be

0:26:27.200,0:26:29.600
much more simple so to give slack you

0:26:29.600,0:26:31.919
simply reverse the tunneling technique

0:26:31.919,0:26:34.240
where your left hand pulls up while your

0:26:34.240,0:26:36.880
right hand assists then the left hand

0:26:36.880,0:26:39.760
goes down and you slide the break hand

0:26:39.760,0:26:42.880
down and you repeat

0:26:43.679,0:26:46.480
and the same technique works with most

0:26:46.480,0:26:48.880
of assisted delaying devices while with

0:26:48.880,0:26:50.880
some of assisted devices you will need a

0:26:50.880,0:26:53.600
special action with assisted tubers it's

0:26:53.600,0:26:55.520
common to push them up while you're

0:26:55.520,0:26:58.320
giving slack

0:26:58.400,0:27:00.559
now in case of the grigri you can either

0:27:00.559,0:27:04.320
use that standard way of giving slack or

0:27:04.320,0:27:06.400
you can press and greek this cam and

0:27:06.400,0:27:07.840
pull the rope

0:27:07.840,0:27:10.240
just don't forget the rule number two

0:27:10.240,0:27:13.360
the rope stays in the hand all the time

0:27:13.360,0:27:15.440
now in case you need to give a lot of

0:27:15.440,0:27:17.679
slack quickly like if the climber is

0:27:17.679,0:27:20.320
about to clip you take your left hand

0:27:20.320,0:27:22.159
close to the laying device and your

0:27:22.159,0:27:24.399
break hand far from the laying device

0:27:24.399,0:27:26.799
this is important only then you can give

0:27:26.799,0:27:28.960
a lot of slack quickly

0:27:28.960,0:27:31.919
if your left hand is somewhere up you

0:27:31.919,0:27:35.840
will be limited by it how far up you can

0:27:35.840,0:27:38.640
raise this hand equally if your brick

0:27:38.640,0:27:41.039
hand is close you will be limited by

0:27:41.039,0:27:43.200
that hand how fast you can give slack

0:27:43.200,0:27:45.200
and then you will need to

0:27:45.200,0:27:48.320
do more actions so left hand close right

0:27:48.320,0:27:50.640
hand far anticipate and you can give a

0:27:50.640,0:27:52.880
lot of slack quickly and if things go

0:27:52.880,0:27:54.799
wrong you can take all of that slack

0:27:54.799,0:27:56.640
quickly back now when you need to lower

0:27:56.640,0:27:58.720
the climber you take both of the hands

0:27:58.720,0:28:01.039
on the brake side of the rope and you

0:28:01.039,0:28:03.919
use one hand to feed the rope to the

0:28:03.919,0:28:05.360
other hand

0:28:05.360,0:28:08.080
that's one way or if you're comfortable

0:28:08.080,0:28:10.000
you can let the rope slide through both

0:28:10.000,0:28:12.240
of your hands

0:28:12.240,0:28:14.840
the risk here is however if you go too

0:28:14.840,0:28:17.919
fast the rope will go so fast through

0:28:17.919,0:28:20.080
both of your hands that it can burn both

0:28:20.080,0:28:22.480
of them and then you will probably drop

0:28:22.480,0:28:24.960
your climber so simply don't go fast

0:28:24.960,0:28:27.279
there is absolutely no point of lowering

0:28:27.279,0:28:29.120
a climber fast there is nothing cool

0:28:29.120,0:28:31.760
about that it heats your equipment way

0:28:31.760,0:28:33.760
more wears down your equipment it's

0:28:33.760,0:28:36.159
expensive and go in a controlled manner

0:28:36.159,0:28:38.559
and if you're not sure you can always

0:28:38.559,0:28:40.720
feed the rope like so and in case your

0:28:40.720,0:28:43.679
climber takes a fall

0:28:43.679,0:28:46.720
just hold on the brake side of the rope

0:28:46.720,0:28:48.559
even if you have number two in your

0:28:48.559,0:28:52.159
pants hold it never let go and as soon

0:28:52.159,0:28:54.799
as your climber will regain the ground

0:28:54.799,0:28:57.440
and unload the rope most of the blank

0:28:57.440,0:28:59.360
devices will unlock themselves and

0:28:59.360,0:29:01.840
you're ready to continue delaying while

0:29:01.840,0:29:04.799
with some devices like click up

0:29:04.799,0:29:07.600
once it locks you need a special action

0:29:07.600,0:29:10.720
to unlock it to continue blaming so as i

0:29:10.720,0:29:12.320
already said it's a good idea to look

0:29:12.320,0:29:14.240
into the manual of your blank device to

0:29:14.240,0:29:17.360
know all these little nuances that there

0:29:17.360,0:29:19.600
might be now if you are teaching

0:29:19.600,0:29:22.159
beginners or you are a beginner yourself

0:29:22.159,0:29:24.480
practice using belaying device on the

0:29:24.480,0:29:27.840
ground without a climber and only once

0:29:27.840,0:29:29.600
you're completely comfortable and you're

0:29:29.600,0:29:32.000
ready to go and actually play somebody

0:29:32.000,0:29:33.919
then make sure to have somebody

0:29:33.919,0:29:36.559
experienced backing up holding on the

0:29:36.559,0:29:39.120
break side of the rope and giving you

0:29:39.120,0:29:42.000
guidance assistance on your technique

0:29:42.000,0:29:44.960
this is really important i actually once

0:29:44.960,0:29:47.279
saved a climber when inexperienced

0:29:47.279,0:29:49.919
belayer was using a grigri i was backing

0:29:49.919,0:29:51.520
up the rope

0:29:51.520,0:29:53.760
and actually i was the one who caught

0:29:53.760,0:29:55.840
the fall and the full story if you're

0:29:55.840,0:29:58.720
interested is in this video about grigri

0:29:58.720,0:30:00.640
and of course don't take this video as a

0:30:00.640,0:30:02.559
complete guide into delaying there is

0:30:02.559,0:30:04.880
way more things you need to know from

0:30:04.880,0:30:07.919
proper slack management to soft catches

0:30:07.919,0:30:10.080
to belayer movement to good

0:30:10.080,0:30:12.240
communication with your climber and all

0:30:12.240,0:30:14.559
of that is coming in the future episodes

0:30:14.559,0:30:17.840
of belay master class

0:30:18.000,0:30:19.520
that's a lot of effort to make these

0:30:19.520,0:30:22.240
videos to be honest and this video was

0:30:22.240,0:30:24.480
brought to you by mamut

0:30:24.480,0:30:26.960
and by all the people who are supporting

0:30:26.960,0:30:30.480
me by visiting my website so huge thank

0:30:30.480,0:30:33.600
you for everyone and see you in the next

0:30:33.600,0:30:36.600
episode