WEBVTT

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Belaying devices.

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There are so many different
belaying devices

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nowadays on the market and in my hands.

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And after this video you will be able

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to pick any of them.

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Not from my hands.

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And you will know how it works 
and how to use it.

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So first of all, a belaying device
is simply a mechanism

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which allows to control

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the friction between your hand

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and the climber.

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Alright.

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So here I hang and here I have almost

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60 kilograms of force pulling 
on this strand of the rope.

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However for me to hold that

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I'm only using about 6 to 7 
kilograms of force

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on the brake side of the rope.

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However if I would start raising

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my brake hand up

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the force needed to hold that

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goes to 9 kilograms of force...

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10...

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12...

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15...

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So my max was around 25 kilograms of force

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with two hands in this position.

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That means that in this position 
at this angle

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I can not even hold my own weight
with two hands.

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There is no even talking about one hand.

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So now let's see how much
assistance I will get

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if my rope strands are completely 
parallel to each other.

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So I will start pulling up

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as hard as i can.

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And so the answer is almost nothing.

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Now to explain how that works

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since there is so many 
different belaying devices

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I'm gonna group all of them 
into different categories.

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First one is tubular style devices.

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That many mistakenly call them reverso.

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Which is only this device - 
Petzl Reverso.

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Or ATC which is this Black Diamond ATC.

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While Mammut calls this 
Alpine Belaying Device. Simple.

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So with tubes the more
I move my brake hand down

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the more it squeezes the rope between 
the carabiner and belaying device.

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And also tubes have 
a little groove in front of them.

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Which even further pinches on the rope.

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Plus as I pull down on the rope
it tilts the device

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which creates extra angles 
and extra friction.

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So as we saw in my previous experiment

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if my hand is at the 
level of the belaying device or higher

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the device creates very little friction.

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So if the climber would fall

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while my hand is 
in this position or higher

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there is a high chance 
that my hand would simply

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get sucked into the belaying device.

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I got my hand pinched...

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And then maybe i will hurt my hand

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And let go off the rope.

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So if you want to see how my hand is

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getting sucked into belaying device

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I already made a video about that.

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Also worth mentioning is that 
rope thickness or diameter

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has a huge effect on how easily

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the rope will go through belaying device.

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And every belaying device has a

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recommended range of rope thicknesses

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which you can find 
somewhere in the manuals

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or sometimes on the device itself.

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And this brings us to advantages

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of tubular style devices.

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First of all they work better with 
wider range of rope diameters.

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All the way from super thick gym ropes

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to ultra skinny twin ropes.

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On contrast if you would take a GriGri

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it says that it's optimized to work

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from 8.9 to 10.5 millimeters ropes.

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But from my experience

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anything from 10 millimeters and above

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doesn't work that well anymore.

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Yeah, there is this older GriGri
which works better with thicker ropes.

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But that one doesn't work well 
with thin ropes.

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Next, tubes are super lightweight.

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And they allow you to belay with two ropes

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either double ropes or twin ropes.

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And if you don't know
what's a double or twin rope

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you should watch
my master class on the ropes.

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Also with tubes you can make a soft catch

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without moving yourself.

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By allowing the rope 
to slip through the device.

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And in general tubes don't catch as hard

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because there is always 
a little bit of slippage

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which reduces the peak forces.

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Which might be very beneficial
for trad climbers.

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Since it reduces the chance

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that the pieces of the gear will fall out.

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And finally tubes have 
this loop at the top.

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And that allows you 
to set this device in a guide mode

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in which you can even belay 
two following climbers

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coming up on top rope simultaneously

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simon... simultaneously.

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and all of that are the reasons

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why tubes are still very commonly used

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in traditional or alpine 
or multi-pitch scenarios.

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However none of that is really useful

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if you're just doing 
single pitch sport climbing.

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And the biggest disadvantage of tubes

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is of course that they don't lock

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meaning if you would let go the rope.

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Which by the way brings us

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to the main rule of belaying.

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If you are in need of number two

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and you have a choice to poop your pants

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or to let go the brake side of the rope -

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you poop your pants!

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Meaning in no circumstances 
you're allowed to lose control

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of the brake side of the rope.

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And that's by the way also equally true

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for assisted building devices 
but we are gonna talk next.

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So assisted devices 
have an ability to lock

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in case the climber falls.

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Which obviously adds a lot of safety.

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For example if you would 
knock a rock while you're climbing

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and that rock would 
fall on your belayer's head...

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And that's why we wear a helmet!

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So first of all your belayer would 
really like to have a helmet.

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But you as a climber 
would really love that

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there would be one of these 
assisted devices down there.

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And in fact my own skin
was once saved by this guy.

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When I did a little fall

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and my belayer did not notice

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that there was a rock next to her leg.

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And while she was flying forward,

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her leg got stuck, and she spun around,

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and hit her back to the wall.

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And let both of the hands go.

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So this guy is basically a reason why 
I'm still here.

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And making these videos.

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Now super important that number two rule

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is also applicable for these guys.

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After all they are called assisted

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so don't treat them as fully automatic.

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Because there are cases 
where they will not lock.

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Apart from safety this locking is also

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super useful in long belays

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If your climber is hanging 
on the rope a lot

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and projecting some hard moves.

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So if we compare this to the tube

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even in the most mechanically 
advantaged position

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you will still need to hold on the rope.

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And in very long belays 
this will get tiring.

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While with assisted devices 
it's pretty chill.

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You are literally just 
sitting in your harness.

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OK, so the first group of 
assisted belaying devices

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is called assisted tubers.

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That's because they look like tubes

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and they work similarly to regular tubes

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where we squeeze the rope

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between the carabiner and the device.

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Except that they have a shape

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that shifts the carabiner in position

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where it squeezes on the rope so hard

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that it completely locks it off.

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A little disadvantage of assisted tubes

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is that once in locked position

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you cannot quickly 
feed slack to the climber.

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You need a special action 
to unlock the device

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before you can feed the rope

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For example with Click Up

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it even clicks

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and now I cannot do anything.

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I literally need to unclick it.

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And now I can continue belaying.

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Now one really important thing

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that not many know about assisted tubers

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That they suffer from the same problem

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as regular tubes

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meaning that 
if your hand is in up position

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the device will not lock.

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As you can see it's not locking

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And if the climber would take a fall

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the rope would just slide from my hand

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and burn it. Oh, it's already burning.

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However unlike regular tubes

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Where you can get your hands sucked

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even at very big angles

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most assisted tubers

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will only fail at the angles

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that are very extremely high up.

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And some actually don't fail at all.

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I'm actually gonna make a separate video

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where I was experimenting

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at which angles which devices lock.

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So stay tuned for that.

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I can't put everything 
into one video because

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I need you to subscribe.

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But independently of which 
belaying device you're using

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just develop a habit of keeping 
your brake hand down.

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Also good to know for people 
who climb with two ropes

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is that there are assisted tubers

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that work with two ropes.

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In case you go on a multi-pitch

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and you want extra safety 
you have some options.

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All right let's move on to 
cam assisted devices.

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I'm sure everybody knows GriGri.

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But there are more devices like

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Trango Vergo and Birdie and others.

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And the way they work is

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that they have a camming 
mechanism inside

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which pinches on the rope.

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Now in the case of GriGri

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the cam is spring-loaded 
meaning that as soon as

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there is no more load 
on the climber's end of the rope

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the cam will disengage.

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And you can belay normally.

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While in the case of Vergo

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it doesn't have a spring.

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And you need to position the device

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in a certain way

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to be able to feed the slack.

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All right back to GriGri.

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If you press on GriGri's cam

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but you ignore the rule number two

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and you don't hold
the break side of the rope

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this can happen...

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Also if you ignore rule number two

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and your GriGri gets trapped 
in the first piece of gear

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this can happen

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Many of you asked

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if this problem of 
trapping in the first bolt

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where it disengages the cam

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is also applicable for assisted tubers.

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So with most assisted devices

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the answer is unlikely.

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Since there is no cam that i could press

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to disengage this locking.

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Only if i would press on this end

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it kind of slips a bit but still

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stays locked.

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This Click Up

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doesn't even lock 
if i don't hold the rope.

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Amazing. Number two rule. Hold the rope.

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Yeah.

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There's no way I can unlock this

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in this manner.

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So no assisted tubers 
don't have this risk.

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Now this is a little future me

00:11:53.040 --> 00:11:56.280
after I was editing this part 
that you just seen.

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And I saw this I realized that

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I was using a wrong carabiner.

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Turns out Click Ups need 
their own specific carabiners

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And that's a reason why 
you should read the manual.

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So that's the carabiner 
you should use for a Click Up.

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Let's see if it locks.

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No difference.

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So number two rule.

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And read the manual

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because some of 
the assisted delaying devices

00:12:26.230 --> 00:12:28.820
require you a specific belaying carabiner.

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I don't know if it's just marketing

00:12:30.640 --> 00:12:33.488
or the shape of the carabiner 
is slightly different.

00:12:33.488 --> 00:12:36.500
Just use what the manufacturers recommend.

00:12:36.500 --> 00:12:38.484
And finally there is this guy.

00:12:38.484 --> 00:12:41.120
It's a Revo from Wild Country.

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It's an inertia based mechanism.

00:12:43.782 --> 00:12:46.560
Which will lock once the climber starts

00:12:46.560 --> 00:12:49.346
falling faster than 4 meters per second.

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So if i pull slowly it doesn't lock.

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I need to pull really fast 
in order for it to lock.

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So my goal of this video

00:12:57.940 --> 00:13:00.320
is not to compare all 
of the delaying devices

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on the market and 
tell you which one to buy.

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Sorry for that.

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Every device have its own 
pros and cons, haters and lovers.

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Full internet of that.

00:13:10.299 --> 00:13:12.997
However if you would want such comparison

00:13:12.997 --> 00:13:14.969
let me know in the comments and maybe

00:13:14.969 --> 00:13:17.081
I will make a separate video on that.

00:13:17.081 --> 00:13:19.087
OK now I have a tip for you

00:13:19.087 --> 00:13:21.491
that will make your life 
a little bit easier

00:13:21.491 --> 00:13:23.790
and maybe will even save your ass

00:13:23.790 --> 00:13:25.040
on a multi-pitch one day.

00:13:25.040 --> 00:13:26.160
Humans,

00:13:26.160 --> 00:13:28.409
we have two hands normally

00:13:28.409 --> 00:13:32.399
and handling more than 
two objects in two hands

00:13:32.399 --> 00:13:33.430
is not ideal.

00:13:33.430 --> 00:13:36.130
What I often see that people
take their belaying device,

00:13:36.130 --> 00:13:37.773
their carabiner, the rope...

00:13:37.773 --> 00:13:39.879
That's already three objects by the way.

00:13:39.879 --> 00:13:42.639
And they try to connect everything

00:13:42.639 --> 00:13:44.959
in space

00:13:44.959 --> 00:13:48.440
like so...

00:13:49.440 --> 00:13:50.443
Ready to belay.

00:13:50.443 --> 00:13:52.170
So doing this

00:13:52.170 --> 00:13:53.834
will greatly increase the chance

00:13:53.834 --> 00:13:55.519
that one day you will drop something you will be

00:13:55.519 --> 00:13:57.279
trying to connect something and then

00:13:57.279 --> 00:13:59.360
suddenly whoops

00:13:59.360 --> 00:14:01.440
your billing device flies down if you're

00:14:01.440 --> 00:14:03.040
not on a multi-pitch if you're standing

00:14:03.040 --> 00:14:05.279
on the ground that's not a big deal

00:14:05.279 --> 00:14:07.680
however if you drop your billing device

00:14:07.680 --> 00:14:09.199
on a multi-pitch

00:14:09.199 --> 00:14:11.440
you are in big trouble so this is what

00:14:11.440 --> 00:14:13.760
you do to avoid that normally your blade

00:14:13.760 --> 00:14:15.920
device will live with your carabiner

00:14:15.920 --> 00:14:17.760
somewhere on the harness

00:14:17.760 --> 00:14:20.320
so step one you take

00:14:20.320 --> 00:14:23.360
both of them together as one unit so i'm

00:14:23.360 --> 00:14:25.360
carrying only one unit and you

00:14:25.360 --> 00:14:27.440
immediately connect it to the laying

00:14:27.440 --> 00:14:28.800
loop

00:14:28.800 --> 00:14:31.279
so you cannot drop anything right now

00:14:31.279 --> 00:14:33.600
everything is safe step two you take a

00:14:33.600 --> 00:14:36.000
bite of rope and you insert into your

00:14:36.000 --> 00:14:37.600
blank device

00:14:37.600 --> 00:14:39.760
keep in mind of the orientation of the

00:14:39.760 --> 00:14:42.320
rope which end has to go to the climber

00:14:42.320 --> 00:14:44.800
which end is your break hand if you're

00:14:44.800 --> 00:14:48.079
not sure every blank device has an image

00:14:48.079 --> 00:14:50.560
on the side of it which will remind you

00:14:50.560 --> 00:14:52.320
that and next

00:14:52.320 --> 00:14:55.040
open your carabiner and hook your rope

00:14:55.040 --> 00:14:56.399
together

00:14:56.399 --> 00:14:58.480
with the belaying device

00:14:58.480 --> 00:15:01.440
so at no point there was a chance of for

00:15:01.440 --> 00:15:03.440
me to drop anything and once you're done

00:15:03.440 --> 00:15:05.600
playing you simply reverse the process

00:15:05.600 --> 00:15:08.240
where you open the carabiner you unhook

00:15:08.240 --> 00:15:10.240
the rope but you hook the belaying

00:15:10.240 --> 00:15:12.480
device and then you simply can just pull

00:15:12.480 --> 00:15:14.240
out the rope and your belaying device

00:15:14.240 --> 00:15:16.480
stays on your harness with the carabiner

00:15:16.480 --> 00:15:18.000
if you want to put it somewhere else you

00:15:18.000 --> 00:15:19.920
put it somewhere else and the same works

00:15:19.920 --> 00:15:22.800
with assisted tubers so step one connect

00:15:22.800 --> 00:15:23.920
your

00:15:23.920 --> 00:15:26.639
blank device to your harness take a bite

00:15:26.639 --> 00:15:29.279
of rope put that bite of rope into the

00:15:29.279 --> 00:15:31.519
laying device

00:15:31.519 --> 00:15:34.240
open the carabiner and hook the rope and

00:15:34.240 --> 00:15:36.399
playing device together

00:15:36.399 --> 00:15:38.720
now in case of the grigri it's slightly

00:15:38.720 --> 00:15:42.000
different so as always step one clip

00:15:42.000 --> 00:15:44.160
your blank device to your belay loop so

00:15:44.160 --> 00:15:46.079
you cannot drop anything now if you're

00:15:46.079 --> 00:15:48.000
not on a multi-pitch and dropping your

00:15:48.000 --> 00:15:50.000
grigri is not a big deal you simply take

00:15:50.000 --> 00:15:53.199
off your grigri open it in this cool way

00:15:53.199 --> 00:15:56.720
insert the rope and flip it back simple

00:15:56.720 --> 00:15:59.759
now if you are on a multi-pitch

00:15:59.759 --> 00:16:02.000
there is a technique so this is what you

00:16:02.000 --> 00:16:05.680
do you open your carabiner

00:16:05.680 --> 00:16:08.399
and hook only half of the degree

00:16:08.399 --> 00:16:10.800
together then you can open the grigri

00:16:10.800 --> 00:16:12.880
and it's connected to your carabiner you

00:16:12.880 --> 00:16:15.839
cannot drop it you insert the rope you

00:16:15.839 --> 00:16:17.360
close it

00:16:17.360 --> 00:16:19.600
and then you open your carabiner again

00:16:19.600 --> 00:16:21.759
and hook the grigri back

00:16:21.759 --> 00:16:24.000
so this is as safe as you can do with

00:16:24.000 --> 00:16:26.800
the grigri on a multi page and obviously

00:16:26.800 --> 00:16:28.480
once you're done it's just simply

00:16:28.480 --> 00:16:31.759
reversing the process of

00:16:31.759 --> 00:16:34.079
doing

00:16:34.839 --> 00:16:37.519
this and doing that

00:16:37.519 --> 00:16:39.920
okay so i hope that by now i gave you

00:16:39.920 --> 00:16:42.639
enough examples how not to use belaying

00:16:42.639 --> 00:16:45.199
devices and now i'm gonna show you

00:16:45.199 --> 00:16:48.079
proper techniques the good part is that

00:16:48.079 --> 00:16:50.800
no matter what blank device you use good

00:16:50.800 --> 00:16:53.040
belaying techniques don't change there

00:16:53.040 --> 00:16:54.560
are slight differences that i'm gonna

00:16:54.560 --> 00:16:57.440
mention but for majority it's the same

00:16:57.440 --> 00:16:58.320
all right

00:16:58.320 --> 00:17:01.120
so i hope that by now number two rule is

00:17:01.120 --> 00:17:03.920
strongly embedded into you however if

00:17:03.920 --> 00:17:06.079
for some reason you really need to go

00:17:06.079 --> 00:17:09.520
hands-free you can tie a backup knot

00:17:09.520 --> 00:17:12.400
at your brake and like so

00:17:12.400 --> 00:17:14.640
and this is totally fine

00:17:14.640 --> 00:17:16.799
in case something happens and the rope

00:17:16.799 --> 00:17:18.400
would slip all the way

00:17:18.400 --> 00:17:20.400
the grigri will lock

00:17:20.400 --> 00:17:22.240
however in the case of tube it's

00:17:22.240 --> 00:17:24.079
slightly different if you would just

00:17:24.079 --> 00:17:25.120
simply

00:17:25.120 --> 00:17:27.039
tie a knot here

00:17:27.039 --> 00:17:29.120
and the climber would fall there is a

00:17:29.120 --> 00:17:31.440
chance that this knot will get

00:17:31.440 --> 00:17:33.840
jammed in your blank device so hard that

00:17:33.840 --> 00:17:37.039
you will have trouble to

00:17:37.039 --> 00:17:39.120
unjam it let's use a slightly different

00:17:39.120 --> 00:17:41.200
carabiner so it's easier for you to see

00:17:41.200 --> 00:17:43.039
what's happening so

00:17:43.039 --> 00:17:45.360
in the case of tube you take a bite of

00:17:45.360 --> 00:17:47.600
rope and then you take another bite of

00:17:47.600 --> 00:17:50.559
rope and put through the first one

00:17:50.559 --> 00:17:52.640
and you make it tight

00:17:52.640 --> 00:17:54.240
and make sure that this loop is long

00:17:54.240 --> 00:17:55.840
enough

00:17:55.840 --> 00:17:56.960
like so

00:17:56.960 --> 00:18:00.000
this will hold but this is not enough to

00:18:00.000 --> 00:18:01.039
make it

00:18:01.039 --> 00:18:03.919
extra safe you tie in

00:18:03.919 --> 00:18:06.480
back up knot here so now i can go

00:18:06.480 --> 00:18:08.720
hands-free and in case my climber takes

00:18:08.720 --> 00:18:11.360
a fall this will hold him and if i want

00:18:11.360 --> 00:18:13.200
to release all of that

00:18:13.200 --> 00:18:15.840
hold the brake side of the rope

00:18:15.840 --> 00:18:17.919
and tie the top

00:18:17.919 --> 00:18:19.200
back up knot

00:18:19.200 --> 00:18:22.799
and start pulling the rope

00:18:22.799 --> 00:18:25.440
until you have a little loop left

00:18:25.440 --> 00:18:27.440
at this point inform your climber that

00:18:27.440 --> 00:18:28.400
he might

00:18:28.400 --> 00:18:30.160
feel a little bump

00:18:30.160 --> 00:18:31.280
and tug

00:18:31.280 --> 00:18:32.480
fast

00:18:32.480 --> 00:18:34.400
like so if you do this correctly your

00:18:34.400 --> 00:18:36.640
climber will not go down at all now if

00:18:36.640 --> 00:18:40.559
you're not familiar with slip slap slap

00:18:40.559 --> 00:18:41.440
this

00:18:41.440 --> 00:18:42.799
technique

00:18:42.799 --> 00:18:45.200
good you can safely ignore my next

00:18:45.200 --> 00:18:47.760
sentence however if you're using that

00:18:47.760 --> 00:18:50.320
technique i would strongly advise you to

00:18:50.320 --> 00:18:52.720
reconsider because in the case of the

00:18:52.720 --> 00:18:54.880
fall your hand might get sucked into the

00:18:54.880 --> 00:18:57.360
bellying device faster than you might

00:18:57.360 --> 00:18:59.600
think so as a good rule of thumb keep

00:18:59.600 --> 00:19:02.799
your break hand always down and do any

00:19:02.799 --> 00:19:06.880
hand swapping or sliding there so now a

00:19:06.880 --> 00:19:08.640
little disclaimer i'm gonna show you

00:19:08.640 --> 00:19:10.640
three different techniques of taking

00:19:10.640 --> 00:19:13.440
slack and depending on where you are on

00:19:13.440 --> 00:19:16.400
the planet some of them might be not

00:19:16.400 --> 00:19:19.200
considered as acceptable so stick with

00:19:19.200 --> 00:19:21.520
me i'm gonna explain because i went

00:19:21.520 --> 00:19:23.840
really deep in this rabbit hole so all

00:19:23.840 --> 00:19:25.840
the techniques start the same your left

00:19:25.840 --> 00:19:28.080
hand reaches up and pulls down on the

00:19:28.080 --> 00:19:30.320
rope while at the same time your break

00:19:30.320 --> 00:19:33.280
hand pushes forward and locks it down

00:19:33.280 --> 00:19:35.360
and now at this point you need to bring

00:19:35.360 --> 00:19:36.799
your right hand

00:19:36.799 --> 00:19:38.960
up the rope and there are three

00:19:38.960 --> 00:19:41.600
different ways to do so the first one

00:19:41.600 --> 00:19:43.440
it's more popular in europe and it's

00:19:43.440 --> 00:19:46.640
called hand over hand or v to the knee

00:19:46.640 --> 00:19:50.320
so you simply take your left hand and go

00:19:50.320 --> 00:19:51.360
over

00:19:51.360 --> 00:19:53.760
your right hand and then right hand goes

00:19:53.760 --> 00:19:55.360
over your left hand that's why it's

00:19:55.360 --> 00:19:58.799
called hand over hand so you take

00:19:58.799 --> 00:20:01.760
hand over hand you take

00:20:01.760 --> 00:20:04.880
hand over hand so i find myself using

00:20:04.880 --> 00:20:06.799
this technique when the climber wants me

00:20:06.799 --> 00:20:09.360
to take really hard as he's moving up

00:20:09.360 --> 00:20:12.080
the rope because you're always pulling

00:20:12.080 --> 00:20:15.039
down on the rope you can

00:20:15.039 --> 00:20:17.919
it kind of feels like climbing up the

00:20:17.919 --> 00:20:19.039
rope

00:20:19.039 --> 00:20:21.840
very comfortable

00:20:22.559 --> 00:20:24.400
so the problem with this technique is

00:20:24.400 --> 00:20:26.559
that when people get really good and can

00:20:26.559 --> 00:20:29.200
do it really fast

00:20:29.200 --> 00:20:32.320
they start letting go the brig and

00:20:32.320 --> 00:20:34.799
before the left hand goes into the

00:20:34.799 --> 00:20:37.760
locking position so we do this we take

00:20:37.760 --> 00:20:40.400
this let go already

00:20:40.400 --> 00:20:43.039
and then go into locking position if the

00:20:43.039 --> 00:20:45.679
climber would fall in the moment where

00:20:45.679 --> 00:20:48.960
you let go this and you don't lock the

00:20:48.960 --> 00:20:51.760
hand down you probably know what would

00:20:51.760 --> 00:20:54.240
happen so obviously a simple solution

00:20:54.240 --> 00:20:55.039
lock

00:20:55.039 --> 00:20:57.520
and then in the locking position do any

00:20:57.520 --> 00:20:59.520
hand swapping and another thing you need

00:20:59.520 --> 00:21:01.919
to be aware of that sometimes if the

00:21:01.919 --> 00:21:04.080
climber drops a bunch of slack your

00:21:04.080 --> 00:21:06.400
blank device falls down and here you

00:21:06.400 --> 00:21:09.440
need to be careful to not take your left

00:21:09.440 --> 00:21:12.559
hand over the belaying device otherwise

00:21:12.559 --> 00:21:15.679
if you do so and the climber falls your

00:21:15.679 --> 00:21:16.480
hand

00:21:16.480 --> 00:21:19.200
gets into this awkward position so

00:21:19.200 --> 00:21:21.280
instead you reach under your blank

00:21:21.280 --> 00:21:23.760
device and you grab the rope and now if

00:21:23.760 --> 00:21:26.080
the climber would fall everything would

00:21:26.080 --> 00:21:28.080
be fine all right next technique is

00:21:28.080 --> 00:21:30.480
called p-bus which is more commonly used

00:21:30.480 --> 00:21:33.840
in america which means pull break so

00:21:33.840 --> 00:21:36.480
basically the same stuff as before

00:21:36.480 --> 00:21:40.080
but now instead of taking over the hand

00:21:40.080 --> 00:21:41.919
you take under

00:21:41.919 --> 00:21:46.480
and slide so pull brake under slide

00:21:46.480 --> 00:21:47.919
pull brake

00:21:47.919 --> 00:21:50.480
under slide so the benefit of this

00:21:50.480 --> 00:21:52.559
technique is your strong hand never

00:21:52.559 --> 00:21:54.960
leaves the rope a little drawback of

00:21:54.960 --> 00:21:57.360
this technique is when you have weight

00:21:57.360 --> 00:21:59.280
on the rope and you're trying to take

00:21:59.280 --> 00:22:00.240
hard

00:22:00.240 --> 00:22:02.880
now sliding up this hand

00:22:02.880 --> 00:22:06.400
is not as comfortable as in

00:22:06.400 --> 00:22:09.520
hand over hand technique

00:22:09.520 --> 00:22:12.000
so at some point as you will be

00:22:12.000 --> 00:22:14.799
practicing your p-bus technique you will

00:22:14.799 --> 00:22:17.520
realize that you don't actually need to

00:22:17.520 --> 00:22:19.919
bring your left hand down there in order

00:22:19.919 --> 00:22:23.120
to bring your big hand up you can simply

00:22:23.120 --> 00:22:24.799
slide it up

00:22:24.799 --> 00:22:27.039
and this is a third technique which is

00:22:27.039 --> 00:22:29.520
called a tunnel technique and since your

00:22:29.520 --> 00:22:32.320
left hand never leaves this rope

00:22:32.320 --> 00:22:34.080
it's the most efficient technique

00:22:34.080 --> 00:22:36.320
because you can always switch between

00:22:36.320 --> 00:22:39.600
taking slack and giving slack instantly

00:22:39.600 --> 00:22:42.559
so no matter in which moment of taking

00:22:42.559 --> 00:22:45.360
slack i am i can always give slack

00:22:45.360 --> 00:22:47.600
and contrary any other technique where

00:22:47.600 --> 00:22:49.600
my left hand leaves

00:22:49.600 --> 00:22:52.240
now it needs to go back in order for me

00:22:52.240 --> 00:22:55.039
to give slack so it's an extra action

00:22:55.039 --> 00:22:57.280
also tunnel technique is the best for

00:22:57.280 --> 00:23:00.000
taking small amounts of slack

00:23:00.000 --> 00:23:01.919
if i would try to take a small amount of

00:23:01.919 --> 00:23:04.240
slack continuously with any other

00:23:04.240 --> 00:23:06.559
technique it's

00:23:06.559 --> 00:23:08.480
a lot of hand

00:23:08.480 --> 00:23:09.840
movements

00:23:09.840 --> 00:23:11.919
while the tunnel technique it's very

00:23:11.919 --> 00:23:13.440
relaxed

00:23:13.440 --> 00:23:15.600
and that's why it's the most efficient

00:23:15.600 --> 00:23:18.080
technique however you might know or

00:23:18.080 --> 00:23:20.159
maybe you don't this technique is

00:23:20.159 --> 00:23:23.120
actually not considered acceptable in

00:23:23.120 --> 00:23:25.120
some parts of the planet

00:23:25.120 --> 00:23:27.760
with the argument that during the moment

00:23:27.760 --> 00:23:30.080
where you slide the hand up

00:23:30.080 --> 00:23:32.320
you don't have a firm grip on the brake

00:23:32.320 --> 00:23:34.799
hand and during the fall maybe you will

00:23:34.799 --> 00:23:37.280
not be able to catch the fall to which

00:23:37.280 --> 00:23:39.600
here is my arguments

00:23:39.600 --> 00:23:42.320
first of all if you use any assisted

00:23:42.320 --> 00:23:45.600
belaying device you don't even need any

00:23:45.600 --> 00:23:47.840
hard grip on the brake side of the rope

00:23:47.840 --> 00:23:52.159
any light tug will make the device lock

00:23:52.159 --> 00:23:54.799
so this is not an issue immediately now

00:23:54.799 --> 00:23:57.200
if you are using a tube i actually went

00:23:57.200 --> 00:23:59.440
out and did an experiment on this where

00:23:59.440 --> 00:24:01.760
i asked inexperienced belayers to keep

00:24:01.760 --> 00:24:04.640
moving the hand up and down while i was

00:24:04.640 --> 00:24:07.120
distracting them and the climber was

00:24:07.120 --> 00:24:10.159
taking unexpected falls for them

00:24:10.159 --> 00:24:12.400
so stay tuned for that it's gonna be

00:24:12.400 --> 00:24:14.159
really crazy and really interesting

00:24:14.159 --> 00:24:16.720
episode but in general when sliding the

00:24:16.720 --> 00:24:19.200
hand up don't make a big tunnel i don't

00:24:19.200 --> 00:24:20.640
like that this technique is actually

00:24:20.640 --> 00:24:22.400
called a tunnel method

00:24:22.400 --> 00:24:25.200
it shouldn't be a tunnel you're barely

00:24:25.200 --> 00:24:27.840
opening the hand just barely enough for

00:24:27.840 --> 00:24:30.320
it to slide up the rope and if you are a

00:24:30.320 --> 00:24:32.559
beginner it's really good idea to start

00:24:32.559 --> 00:24:35.120
practicing with pbus technique because

00:24:35.120 --> 00:24:37.520
you will be sliding your hand up the

00:24:37.520 --> 00:24:39.039
rope a lot

00:24:39.039 --> 00:24:42.159
with the backup of your other hand

00:24:42.159 --> 00:24:44.240
and you will learn the feeling of the

00:24:44.240 --> 00:24:46.640
rope going through your hand so start

00:24:46.640 --> 00:24:49.200
with this and once you get really

00:24:49.200 --> 00:24:51.200
comfortable with this

00:24:51.200 --> 00:24:53.600
not bringing the left hand down and just

00:24:53.600 --> 00:24:56.400
doing this will feel very natural by

00:24:56.400 --> 00:24:58.000
that point

00:24:58.000 --> 00:24:59.600
and just to make sure that i'm not

00:24:59.600 --> 00:25:01.760
missing something in regards of safety

00:25:01.760 --> 00:25:03.600
of these three techniques i wrote an

00:25:03.600 --> 00:25:06.960
email to about 25 different climbing

00:25:06.960 --> 00:25:09.120
safety related organizations and

00:25:09.120 --> 00:25:11.360
associations and asked them to comment

00:25:11.360 --> 00:25:13.440
on these techniques not all of them

00:25:13.440 --> 00:25:15.919
replied unfortunately however out of

00:25:15.919 --> 00:25:18.480
those who replied none of them said

00:25:18.480 --> 00:25:20.880
anything against of any particular

00:25:20.880 --> 00:25:23.200
technique so as long as you follow the

00:25:23.200 --> 00:25:25.760
basic guidelines of proper belaying you

00:25:25.760 --> 00:25:27.919
will be fine maybe with an exception if

00:25:27.919 --> 00:25:29.440
you're in the united states and you need

00:25:29.440 --> 00:25:32.080
to take a delaying exam then you might

00:25:32.080 --> 00:25:35.039
be forced to use the pibas and few more

00:25:35.039 --> 00:25:36.640
mistakes that people do when they're

00:25:36.640 --> 00:25:39.360
taking slack first of all they take the

00:25:39.360 --> 00:25:43.760
slack like this or like this

00:25:43.760 --> 00:25:46.320
so unless you are using a assisted

00:25:46.320 --> 00:25:48.320
building device and you're guaranteed

00:25:48.320 --> 00:25:51.279
that that device will lock at this angle

00:25:51.279 --> 00:25:53.440
which i will make a separate video on

00:25:53.440 --> 00:25:56.000
that you might be in trouble second

00:25:56.000 --> 00:25:58.559
mistake is people hold

00:25:58.559 --> 00:26:01.039
both strands of the rope with the left

00:26:01.039 --> 00:26:04.480
hand they do something like this

00:26:04.480 --> 00:26:06.960
the reason why they do this is to

00:26:06.960 --> 00:26:09.279
prevent the belaying device from falling

00:26:09.279 --> 00:26:12.159
down there however to fix that you don't

00:26:12.159 --> 00:26:14.000
need to hold both strands of the rope

00:26:14.000 --> 00:26:15.919
you can just simply hold one strand of

00:26:15.919 --> 00:26:17.600
the rope and you will have

00:26:17.600 --> 00:26:20.640
exactly the same result

00:26:20.640 --> 00:26:22.320
okay that's a lot of talking about

00:26:22.320 --> 00:26:24.559
taking slack i just felt that that's the

00:26:24.559 --> 00:26:27.200
most important part and the rest will be

00:26:27.200 --> 00:26:29.600
much more simple so to give slack you

00:26:29.600 --> 00:26:31.919
simply reverse the tunneling technique

00:26:31.919 --> 00:26:34.240
where your left hand pulls up while your

00:26:34.240 --> 00:26:36.880
right hand assists then the left hand

00:26:36.880 --> 00:26:39.760
goes down and you slide the break hand

00:26:39.760 --> 00:26:42.880
down and you repeat

00:26:43.679 --> 00:26:46.480
and the same technique works with most

00:26:46.480 --> 00:26:48.880
of assisted delaying devices while with

00:26:48.880 --> 00:26:50.880
some of assisted devices you will need a

00:26:50.880 --> 00:26:53.600
special action with assisted tubers it's

00:26:53.600 --> 00:26:55.520
common to push them up while you're

00:26:55.520 --> 00:26:58.320
giving slack

00:26:58.400 --> 00:27:00.559
now in case of the grigri you can either

00:27:00.559 --> 00:27:04.320
use that standard way of giving slack or

00:27:04.320 --> 00:27:06.400
you can press and greek this cam and

00:27:06.400 --> 00:27:07.840
pull the rope

00:27:07.840 --> 00:27:10.240
just don't forget the rule number two

00:27:10.240 --> 00:27:13.360
the rope stays in the hand all the time

00:27:13.360 --> 00:27:15.440
now in case you need to give a lot of

00:27:15.440 --> 00:27:17.679
slack quickly like if the climber is

00:27:17.679 --> 00:27:20.320
about to clip you take your left hand

00:27:20.320 --> 00:27:22.159
close to the laying device and your

00:27:22.159 --> 00:27:24.399
break hand far from the laying device

00:27:24.399 --> 00:27:26.799
this is important only then you can give

00:27:26.799 --> 00:27:28.960
a lot of slack quickly

00:27:28.960 --> 00:27:31.919
if your left hand is somewhere up you

00:27:31.919 --> 00:27:35.840
will be limited by it how far up you can

00:27:35.840 --> 00:27:38.640
raise this hand equally if your brick

00:27:38.640 --> 00:27:41.039
hand is close you will be limited by

00:27:41.039 --> 00:27:43.200
that hand how fast you can give slack

00:27:43.200 --> 00:27:45.200
and then you will need to

00:27:45.200 --> 00:27:48.320
do more actions so left hand close right

00:27:48.320 --> 00:27:50.640
hand far anticipate and you can give a

00:27:50.640 --> 00:27:52.880
lot of slack quickly and if things go

00:27:52.880 --> 00:27:54.799
wrong you can take all of that slack

00:27:54.799 --> 00:27:56.640
quickly back now when you need to lower

00:27:56.640 --> 00:27:58.720
the climber you take both of the hands

00:27:58.720 --> 00:28:01.039
on the brake side of the rope and you

00:28:01.039 --> 00:28:03.919
use one hand to feed the rope to the

00:28:03.919 --> 00:28:05.360
other hand

00:28:05.360 --> 00:28:08.080
that's one way or if you're comfortable

00:28:08.080 --> 00:28:10.000
you can let the rope slide through both

00:28:10.000 --> 00:28:12.240
of your hands

00:28:12.240 --> 00:28:14.840
the risk here is however if you go too

00:28:14.840 --> 00:28:17.919
fast the rope will go so fast through

00:28:17.919 --> 00:28:20.080
both of your hands that it can burn both

00:28:20.080 --> 00:28:22.480
of them and then you will probably drop

00:28:22.480 --> 00:28:24.960
your climber so simply don't go fast

00:28:24.960 --> 00:28:27.279
there is absolutely no point of lowering

00:28:27.279 --> 00:28:29.120
a climber fast there is nothing cool

00:28:29.120 --> 00:28:31.760
about that it heats your equipment way

00:28:31.760 --> 00:28:33.760
more wears down your equipment it's

00:28:33.760 --> 00:28:36.159
expensive and go in a controlled manner

00:28:36.159 --> 00:28:38.559
and if you're not sure you can always

00:28:38.559 --> 00:28:40.720
feed the rope like so and in case your

00:28:40.720 --> 00:28:43.679
climber takes a fall

00:28:43.679 --> 00:28:46.720
just hold on the brake side of the rope

00:28:46.720 --> 00:28:48.559
even if you have number two in your

00:28:48.559 --> 00:28:52.159
pants hold it never let go and as soon

00:28:52.159 --> 00:28:54.799
as your climber will regain the ground

00:28:54.799 --> 00:28:57.440
and unload the rope most of the blank

00:28:57.440 --> 00:28:59.360
devices will unlock themselves and

00:28:59.360 --> 00:29:01.840
you're ready to continue delaying while

00:29:01.840 --> 00:29:04.799
with some devices like click up

00:29:04.799 --> 00:29:07.600
once it locks you need a special action

00:29:07.600 --> 00:29:10.720
to unlock it to continue blaming so as i

00:29:10.720 --> 00:29:12.320
already said it's a good idea to look

00:29:12.320 --> 00:29:14.240
into the manual of your blank device to

00:29:14.240 --> 00:29:17.360
know all these little nuances that there

00:29:17.360 --> 00:29:19.600
might be now if you are teaching

00:29:19.600 --> 00:29:22.159
beginners or you are a beginner yourself

00:29:22.159 --> 00:29:24.480
practice using belaying device on the

00:29:24.480 --> 00:29:27.840
ground without a climber and only once

00:29:27.840 --> 00:29:29.600
you're completely comfortable and you're

00:29:29.600 --> 00:29:32.000
ready to go and actually play somebody

00:29:32.000 --> 00:29:33.919
then make sure to have somebody

00:29:33.919 --> 00:29:36.559
experienced backing up holding on the

00:29:36.559 --> 00:29:39.120
break side of the rope and giving you

00:29:39.120 --> 00:29:42.000
guidance assistance on your technique

00:29:42.000 --> 00:29:44.960
this is really important i actually once

00:29:44.960 --> 00:29:47.279
saved a climber when inexperienced

00:29:47.279 --> 00:29:49.919
belayer was using a grigri i was backing

00:29:49.919 --> 00:29:51.520
up the rope

00:29:51.520 --> 00:29:53.760
and actually i was the one who caught

00:29:53.760 --> 00:29:55.840
the fall and the full story if you're

00:29:55.840 --> 00:29:58.720
interested is in this video about grigri

00:29:58.720 --> 00:30:00.640
and of course don't take this video as a

00:30:00.640 --> 00:30:02.559
complete guide into delaying there is

00:30:02.559 --> 00:30:04.880
way more things you need to know from

00:30:04.880 --> 00:30:07.919
proper slack management to soft catches

00:30:07.919 --> 00:30:10.080
to belayer movement to good

00:30:10.080 --> 00:30:12.240
communication with your climber and all

00:30:12.240 --> 00:30:14.559
of that is coming in the future episodes

00:30:14.559 --> 00:30:17.840
of belay master class

00:30:18.000 --> 00:30:19.520
that's a lot of effort to make these

00:30:19.520 --> 00:30:22.240
videos to be honest and this video was

00:30:22.240 --> 00:30:24.480
brought to you by mamut

00:30:24.480 --> 00:30:26.960
and by all the people who are supporting

00:30:26.960 --> 00:30:30.480
me by visiting my website so huge thank

00:30:30.480 --> 00:30:33.600
you for everyone and see you in the next

00:30:33.600 --> 00:30:36.600
episode