[Script Info] Title: [Events] Format: Layer, Start, End, Style, Name, MarginL, MarginR, MarginV, Effect, Text Dialogue: 0,0:00:03.28,0:00:04.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Belaying devices. Dialogue: 0,0:00:04.61,0:00:07.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There are so many different\Nbelaying devices Dialogue: 0,0:00:07.28,0:00:11.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nowadays on the market and in my hands. Dialogue: 0,0:00:11.28,0:00:13.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And after this video you will be able Dialogue: 0,0:00:13.44,0:00:14.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to pick any of them. Dialogue: 0,0:00:14.96,0:00:16.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Not from my hands. Dialogue: 0,0:00:16.64,0:00:19.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And you will know how it works \Nand how to use it. Dialogue: 0,0:00:19.76,0:00:23.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So first of all, a belaying device\Nis simply a mechanism Dialogue: 0,0:00:23.66,0:00:24.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which allows to control Dialogue: 0,0:00:24.98,0:00:26.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the friction between your hand Dialogue: 0,0:00:26.96,0:00:28.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the climber. Dialogue: 0,0:00:28.32,0:00:29.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Alright. Dialogue: 0,0:00:29.52,0:00:33.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So here I hang and here I have almost Dialogue: 0,0:00:33.37,0:00:38.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,60 kilograms of force pulling \Non this strand of the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:00:38.10,0:00:40.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However for me to hold that Dialogue: 0,0:00:40.72,0:00:45.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm only using about 6 to 7 \Nkilograms of force Dialogue: 0,0:00:45.76,0:00:47.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the brake side of the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:00:47.44,0:00:50.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However if I would start raising Dialogue: 0,0:00:50.48,0:00:54.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,my brake hand up Dialogue: 0,0:00:54.08,0:00:56.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the force needed to hold that Dialogue: 0,0:00:56.67,0:01:00.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,goes to 9 kilograms of force... Dialogue: 0,0:01:00.54,0:01:02.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,10... Dialogue: 0,0:01:02.64,0:01:05.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,12... Dialogue: 0,0:01:07.28,0:01:10.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,15... Dialogue: 0,0:01:17.04,0:01:21.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So my max was around 25 kilograms of force Dialogue: 0,0:01:21.04,0:01:23.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with two hands in this position. Dialogue: 0,0:01:23.84,0:01:27.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That means that in this position \Nat this angle Dialogue: 0,0:01:27.09,0:01:30.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I can not even hold my own weight\Nwith two hands. Dialogue: 0,0:01:30.14,0:01:32.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There is no even talking about one hand. Dialogue: 0,0:01:32.89,0:01:35.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So now let's see how much\Nassistance I will get Dialogue: 0,0:01:35.35,0:01:39.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if my rope strands are completely \Nparallel to each other. Dialogue: 0,0:01:39.11,0:01:42.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So I will start pulling up Dialogue: 0,0:01:42.06,0:01:46.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as hard as i can. Dialogue: 0,0:01:56.08,0:01:58.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And so the answer is almost nothing. Dialogue: 0,0:01:58.40,0:01:59.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now to explain how that works Dialogue: 0,0:01:59.94,0:02:02.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,since there is so many \Ndifferent belaying devices Dialogue: 0,0:02:02.61,0:02:05.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm gonna group all of them \Ninto different categories. Dialogue: 0,0:02:05.97,0:02:08.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,First one is tubular style devices. Dialogue: 0,0:02:08.50,0:02:11.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That many mistakenly call them reverso. Dialogue: 0,0:02:11.59,0:02:14.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Which is only this device - \NPetzl Reverso. Dialogue: 0,0:02:14.44,0:02:18.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Or ATC which is this Black Diamond ATC. Dialogue: 0,0:02:18.48,0:02:21.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,While Mammut calls this \NAlpine Belaying Device. Simple. Dialogue: 0,0:02:21.46,0:02:25.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So with tubes the more\NI move my brake hand down Dialogue: 0,0:02:25.45,0:02:30.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the more it squeezes the rope between \Nthe carabiner and belaying device. Dialogue: 0,0:02:30.01,0:02:34.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And also tubes have \Na little groove in front of them. Dialogue: 0,0:02:34.01,0:02:37.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Which even further pinches on the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:02:37.09,0:02:40.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Plus as I pull down on the rope\Nit tilts the device Dialogue: 0,0:02:40.57,0:02:43.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which creates extra angles \Nand extra friction. Dialogue: 0,0:02:43.84,0:02:46.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So as we saw in my previous experiment Dialogue: 0,0:02:46.38,0:02:50.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if my hand is at the \Nlevel of the belaying device or higher Dialogue: 0,0:02:50.96,0:02:53.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the device creates very little friction. Dialogue: 0,0:02:53.12,0:02:55.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So if the climber would fall Dialogue: 0,0:02:55.26,0:02:58.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,while my hand is \Nin this position or higher Dialogue: 0,0:02:58.80,0:03:01.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there is a high chance \Nthat my hand would simply Dialogue: 0,0:03:01.36,0:03:04.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,get sucked into the belaying device. Dialogue: 0,0:03:04.96,0:03:08.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I got my hand pinched... Dialogue: 0,0:03:19.28,0:03:21.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And then maybe i will hurt my hand Dialogue: 0,0:03:21.29,0:03:23.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And let go off the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:03:23.92,0:03:25.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So if you want to see how my hand is Dialogue: 0,0:03:25.92,0:03:27.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,getting sucked into belaying device Dialogue: 0,0:03:27.75,0:03:29.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I already made a video about that. Dialogue: 0,0:03:29.80,0:03:32.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Also worth mentioning is that \Nrope thickness or diameter Dialogue: 0,0:03:32.91,0:03:35.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,has a huge effect on how easily Dialogue: 0,0:03:35.18,0:03:37.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the rope will go through belaying device. Dialogue: 0,0:03:37.61,0:03:39.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And every belaying device has a Dialogue: 0,0:03:39.52,0:03:42.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,recommended range of rope thicknesses Dialogue: 0,0:03:42.24,0:03:44.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which you can find \Nsomewhere in the manuals Dialogue: 0,0:03:44.58,0:03:46.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or sometimes on the device itself. Dialogue: 0,0:03:46.60,0:03:49.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And this brings us to advantages Dialogue: 0,0:03:49.12,0:03:50.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of tubular style devices. Dialogue: 0,0:03:50.99,0:03:55.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,First of all they work better with \Nwider range of rope diameters. Dialogue: 0,0:03:55.19,0:03:58.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All the way from super thick gym ropes Dialogue: 0,0:03:58.48,0:04:01.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to ultra skinny twin ropes. Dialogue: 0,0:04:01.00,0:04:03.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,On contrast if you would take a GriGri Dialogue: 0,0:04:03.51,0:04:06.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it says that it's optimized to work Dialogue: 0,0:04:06.06,0:04:09.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from 8.9 to 10.5 millimeters ropes. Dialogue: 0,0:04:09.87,0:04:11.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But from my experience Dialogue: 0,0:04:11.68,0:04:14.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,anything from 10 millimeters and above Dialogue: 0,0:04:14.32,0:04:16.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,doesn't work that well anymore. Dialogue: 0,0:04:16.12,0:04:19.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Yeah, there is this older GriGri\Nwhich works better with thicker ropes. Dialogue: 0,0:04:19.99,0:04:22.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But that one doesn't work well \Nwith thin ropes. Dialogue: 0,0:04:22.80,0:04:25.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Next, tubes are super lightweight. Dialogue: 0,0:04:25.69,0:04:27.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And they allow you to belay with two ropes Dialogue: 0,0:04:27.84,0:04:29.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,either double ropes or twin ropes. Dialogue: 0,0:04:29.60,0:04:31.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And if you don't know\Nwhat's a double or twin rope Dialogue: 0,0:04:31.98,0:04:35.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you should watch\Nmy master class on the ropes. Dialogue: 0,0:04:35.00,0:04:37.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Also with tubes you can make a soft catch Dialogue: 0,0:04:37.56,0:04:39.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,without moving yourself. Dialogue: 0,0:04:39.17,0:04:42.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,By allowing the rope \Nto slip through the device. Dialogue: 0,0:04:42.72,0:04:46.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And in general tubes don't catch as hard Dialogue: 0,0:04:46.72,0:04:49.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because there is always \Na little bit of slippage Dialogue: 0,0:04:49.24,0:04:51.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which reduces the peak forces. Dialogue: 0,0:04:51.84,0:04:54.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Which might be very beneficial\Nfor trad climbers. Dialogue: 0,0:04:54.24,0:04:56.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Since it reduces the chance Dialogue: 0,0:04:56.56,0:04:59.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that the pieces of the gear will fall out. Dialogue: 0,0:04:59.08,0:05:02.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And finally tubes have \Nthis loop at the top. Dialogue: 0,0:05:02.41,0:05:05.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that allows you \Nto set this device in a guide mode Dialogue: 0,0:05:05.52,0:05:08.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in which you can even belay \Ntwo following climbers Dialogue: 0,0:05:08.69,0:05:13.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,coming up on top rope simultaneously Dialogue: 0,0:05:13.44,0:05:16.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,simon... simultaneously. Dialogue: 0,0:05:16.23,0:05:18.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and all of that are the reasons Dialogue: 0,0:05:18.36,0:05:21.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,why tubes are still very commonly used Dialogue: 0,0:05:21.37,0:05:24.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in traditional or alpine \Nor multi-pitch scenarios. Dialogue: 0,0:05:24.44,0:05:27.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However none of that is really useful Dialogue: 0,0:05:27.68,0:05:30.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you're just doing \Nsingle pitch sport climbing. Dialogue: 0,0:05:30.26,0:05:32.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And the biggest disadvantage of tubes Dialogue: 0,0:05:32.40,0:05:34.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is of course that they don't lock Dialogue: 0,0:05:34.30,0:05:37.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,meaning if you would let go the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:05:37.60,0:05:39.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Which by the way brings us Dialogue: 0,0:05:39.26,0:05:41.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to the main rule of belaying. Dialogue: 0,0:05:41.00,0:05:43.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If you are in need of number two Dialogue: 0,0:05:43.52,0:05:46.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you have a choice to poop your pants Dialogue: 0,0:05:46.48,0:05:50.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or to let go the brake side of the rope - Dialogue: 0,0:05:50.40,0:05:52.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you poop your pants! Dialogue: 0,0:05:52.06,0:05:55.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Meaning in no circumstances \Nyou're allowed to lose control Dialogue: 0,0:05:55.89,0:05:57.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of the brake side of the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:05:57.44,0:05:59.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that's by the way also equally true Dialogue: 0,0:05:59.60,0:06:03.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for assisted building devices \Nbut we are gonna talk next. Dialogue: 0,0:06:03.12,0:06:06.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So assisted devices \Nhave an ability to lock Dialogue: 0,0:06:06.53,0:06:08.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in case the climber falls. Dialogue: 0,0:06:08.48,0:06:11.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Which obviously adds a lot of safety. Dialogue: 0,0:06:11.44,0:06:14.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,For example if you would \Nknock a rock while you're climbing Dialogue: 0,0:06:14.80,0:06:19.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and that rock would \Nfall on your belayer's head... Dialogue: 0,0:06:19.04,0:06:20.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that's why we wear a helmet! Dialogue: 0,0:06:20.80,0:06:24.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So first of all your belayer would \Nreally like to have a helmet. Dialogue: 0,0:06:24.24,0:06:27.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But you as a climber \Nwould really love that Dialogue: 0,0:06:27.16,0:06:30.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there would be one of these \Nassisted devices down there. Dialogue: 0,0:06:30.37,0:06:33.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And in fact my own skin\Nwas once saved by this guy. Dialogue: 0,0:06:33.96,0:06:35.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,When I did a little fall Dialogue: 0,0:06:35.56,0:06:37.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and my belayer did not notice Dialogue: 0,0:06:37.26,0:06:39.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that there was a rock next to her leg. Dialogue: 0,0:06:39.57,0:06:41.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And while she was flying forward, Dialogue: 0,0:06:41.88,0:06:44.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,her leg got stuck, and she spun around, Dialogue: 0,0:06:44.91,0:06:46.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and hit her back to the wall. Dialogue: 0,0:06:46.78,0:06:49.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And let both of the hands go. Dialogue: 0,0:06:49.46,0:06:54.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So this guy is basically a reason why \NI'm still here. Dialogue: 0,0:06:54.40,0:06:56.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And making these videos. Dialogue: 0,0:06:56.18,0:06:59.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now super important that number two rule Dialogue: 0,0:06:59.28,0:07:01.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is also applicable for these guys. Dialogue: 0,0:07:01.36,0:07:04.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,After all they are called assisted Dialogue: 0,0:07:04.01,0:07:07.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so don't treat them as fully automatic. Dialogue: 0,0:07:07.21,0:07:10.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Because there are cases \Nwhere they will not lock. Dialogue: 0,0:07:10.88,0:07:13.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Apart from safety this locking is also Dialogue: 0,0:07:13.76,0:07:15.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,super useful in long belays Dialogue: 0,0:07:15.85,0:07:18.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If your climber is hanging \Non the rope a lot Dialogue: 0,0:07:18.53,0:07:20.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and projecting some hard moves. Dialogue: 0,0:07:20.52,0:07:22.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So if we compare this to the tube Dialogue: 0,0:07:22.56,0:07:26.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,even in the most mechanically \Nadvantaged position Dialogue: 0,0:07:26.72,0:07:29.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you will still need to hold on the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:07:29.28,0:07:32.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And in very long belays \Nthis will get tiring. Dialogue: 0,0:07:32.73,0:07:35.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,While with assisted devices \Nit's pretty chill. Dialogue: 0,0:07:35.21,0:07:37.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You are literally just \Nsitting in your harness. Dialogue: 0,0:07:37.78,0:07:42.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,OK, so the first group of \Nassisted belaying devices Dialogue: 0,0:07:42.88,0:07:45.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is called assisted tubers. Dialogue: 0,0:07:45.07,0:07:48.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That's because they look like tubes Dialogue: 0,0:07:48.41,0:07:51.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and they work similarly to regular tubes Dialogue: 0,0:07:51.40,0:07:52.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where we squeeze the rope Dialogue: 0,0:07:52.96,0:07:55.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,between the carabiner and the device. Dialogue: 0,0:07:55.76,0:07:57.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Except that they have a shape Dialogue: 0,0:07:57.68,0:08:00.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that shifts the carabiner in position Dialogue: 0,0:08:00.44,0:08:03.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where it squeezes on the rope so hard Dialogue: 0,0:08:03.40,0:08:05.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that it completely locks it off. Dialogue: 0,0:08:05.48,0:08:08.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,A little disadvantage of assisted tubes Dialogue: 0,0:08:08.60,0:08:11.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is that once in locked position Dialogue: 0,0:08:11.32,0:08:14.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you cannot quickly \Nfeed slack to the climber. Dialogue: 0,0:08:14.16,0:08:17.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You need a special action \Nto unlock the device Dialogue: 0,0:08:17.40,0:08:19.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,before you can feed the rope Dialogue: 0,0:08:19.52,0:08:21.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,For example with Click Up Dialogue: 0,0:08:21.42,0:08:23.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it even clicks Dialogue: 0,0:08:23.22,0:08:25.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and now I cannot do anything. Dialogue: 0,0:08:25.22,0:08:27.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I literally need to unclick it. Dialogue: 0,0:08:27.91,0:08:29.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And now I can continue belaying. Dialogue: 0,0:08:29.53,0:08:31.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now one really important thing Dialogue: 0,0:08:31.34,0:08:33.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that not many know about assisted tubers Dialogue: 0,0:08:33.71,0:08:36.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That they suffer from the same problem Dialogue: 0,0:08:36.42,0:08:38.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as regular tubes Dialogue: 0,0:08:38.33,0:08:42.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,meaning that \Nif your hand is in up position Dialogue: 0,0:08:42.32,0:08:44.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the device will not lock. Dialogue: 0,0:08:44.43,0:08:45.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,As you can see it's not locking Dialogue: 0,0:08:45.99,0:08:48.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And if the climber would take a fall Dialogue: 0,0:08:48.72,0:08:51.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the rope would just slide from my hand Dialogue: 0,0:08:51.04,0:08:54.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and burn it. Oh, it's already burning. Dialogue: 0,0:08:54.16,0:08:56.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However unlike regular tubes Dialogue: 0,0:08:56.54,0:08:58.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Where you can get your hands sucked Dialogue: 0,0:08:58.24,0:08:59.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,even at very big angles Dialogue: 0,0:08:59.96,0:09:01.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,most assisted tubers Dialogue: 0,0:09:01.66,0:09:03.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will only fail at the angles Dialogue: 0,0:09:03.93,0:09:06.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that are very extremely high up. Dialogue: 0,0:09:06.27,0:09:08.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And some actually don't fail at all. Dialogue: 0,0:09:08.52,0:09:10.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm actually gonna make a separate video Dialogue: 0,0:09:10.88,0:09:12.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where I was experimenting Dialogue: 0,0:09:12.70,0:09:15.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,at which angles which devices lock. Dialogue: 0,0:09:15.83,0:09:17.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So stay tuned for that. Dialogue: 0,0:09:17.57,0:09:20.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I can't put everything \Ninto one video because Dialogue: 0,0:09:20.15,0:09:23.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I need you to subscribe. Dialogue: 0,0:09:23.04,0:09:26.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But independently of which \Nbelaying device you're using Dialogue: 0,0:09:26.11,0:09:29.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,just develop a habit of keeping \Nyour brake hand down. Dialogue: 0,0:09:29.58,0:09:32.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Also good to know for people \Nwho climb with two ropes Dialogue: 0,0:09:32.73,0:09:34.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is that there are assisted tubers Dialogue: 0,0:09:34.80,0:09:36.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that work with two ropes. Dialogue: 0,0:09:36.39,0:09:37.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In case you go on a multi-pitch Dialogue: 0,0:09:37.88,0:09:41.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you want extra safety \Nyou have some options. Dialogue: 0,0:09:41.44,0:09:44.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All right let's move on to \Ncam assisted devices. Dialogue: 0,0:09:44.32,0:09:46.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm sure everybody knows GriGri. Dialogue: 0,0:09:46.34,0:09:48.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But there are more devices like Dialogue: 0,0:09:48.50,0:09:51.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Trango Vergo and Birdie and others. Dialogue: 0,0:09:51.08,0:09:52.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And the way they work is Dialogue: 0,0:09:52.38,0:09:54.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that they have a camming \Nmechanism inside Dialogue: 0,0:09:54.66,0:09:56.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which pinches on the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:09:56.31,0:09:58.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now in the case of GriGri Dialogue: 0,0:09:58.20,0:10:01.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the cam is spring-loaded \Nmeaning that as soon as Dialogue: 0,0:10:01.68,0:10:04.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there is no more load \Non the climber's end of the rope Dialogue: 0,0:10:04.66,0:10:06.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the cam will disengage. Dialogue: 0,0:10:06.40,0:10:08.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And you can belay normally. Dialogue: 0,0:10:08.72,0:10:10.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,While in the case of Vergo Dialogue: 0,0:10:10.40,0:10:11.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it doesn't have a spring. Dialogue: 0,0:10:11.76,0:10:14.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And you need to position the device Dialogue: 0,0:10:14.16,0:10:15.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in a certain way Dialogue: 0,0:10:15.92,0:10:17.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to be able to feed the slack. Dialogue: 0,0:10:17.94,0:10:19.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All right back to GriGri. Dialogue: 0,0:10:19.98,0:10:22.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If you press on GriGri's cam Dialogue: 0,0:10:22.22,0:10:25.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but you ignore the rule number two Dialogue: 0,0:10:25.20,0:10:28.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you don't hold\Nthe break side of the rope Dialogue: 0,0:10:28.46,0:10:32.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this can happen... Dialogue: 0,0:10:37.92,0:10:40.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Also if you ignore rule number two Dialogue: 0,0:10:40.88,0:10:45.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and your GriGri gets trapped \Nin the first piece of gear Dialogue: 0,0:10:45.20,0:10:47.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this can happen Dialogue: 0,0:10:51.36,0:10:53.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Many of you asked Dialogue: 0,0:10:53.28,0:10:56.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if this problem of \Ntrapping in the first bolt Dialogue: 0,0:10:56.16,0:10:58.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where it disengages the cam Dialogue: 0,0:10:58.48,0:11:01.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is also applicable for assisted tubers. Dialogue: 0,0:11:01.98,0:11:04.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So with most assisted devices Dialogue: 0,0:11:04.78,0:11:07.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the answer is unlikely. Dialogue: 0,0:11:07.12,0:11:09.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Since there is no cam that i could press Dialogue: 0,0:11:09.92,0:11:12.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to disengage this locking. Dialogue: 0,0:11:12.56,0:11:16.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Only if i would press on this end Dialogue: 0,0:11:16.08,0:11:18.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it kind of slips a bit but still Dialogue: 0,0:11:18.80,0:11:21.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stays locked. Dialogue: 0,0:11:25.92,0:11:29.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This Click Up Dialogue: 0,0:11:29.12,0:11:33.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,doesn't even lock \Nif i don't hold the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:11:33.04,0:11:37.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Amazing. Number two rule. Hold the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:11:38.96,0:11:40.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Yeah. Dialogue: 0,0:11:40.48,0:11:44.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There's no way I can unlock this Dialogue: 0,0:11:44.56,0:11:47.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in this manner. Dialogue: 0,0:11:47.68,0:11:50.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So no assisted tubers \Ndon't have this risk. Dialogue: 0,0:11:50.92,0:11:53.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now this is a little future me Dialogue: 0,0:11:53.04,0:11:56.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,after I was editing this part \Nthat you just seen. Dialogue: 0,0:11:56.28,0:11:58.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And I saw this I realized that Dialogue: 0,0:11:58.48,0:12:00.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I was using a wrong carabiner. Dialogue: 0,0:12:00.96,0:12:05.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Turns out Click Ups need \Ntheir own specific carabiners Dialogue: 0,0:12:05.39,0:12:07.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that's a reason why \Nyou should read the manual. Dialogue: 0,0:12:07.86,0:12:12.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So that's the carabiner \Nyou should use for a Click Up. Dialogue: 0,0:12:12.45,0:12:15.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Let's see if it locks. Dialogue: 0,0:12:16.40,0:12:19.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,No difference. Dialogue: 0,0:12:19.76,0:12:22.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So number two rule. Dialogue: 0,0:12:22.24,0:12:23.63,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And read the manual Dialogue: 0,0:12:23.63,0:12:26.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because some of \Nthe assisted delaying devices Dialogue: 0,0:12:26.23,0:12:28.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,require you a specific belaying carabiner. Dialogue: 0,0:12:28.82,0:12:30.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I don't know if it's just marketing Dialogue: 0,0:12:30.64,0:12:33.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or the shape of the carabiner \Nis slightly different. Dialogue: 0,0:12:33.49,0:12:36.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Just use what the manufacturers recommend. Dialogue: 0,0:12:36.50,0:12:38.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And finally there is this guy. Dialogue: 0,0:12:38.48,0:12:41.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's a Revo from Wild Country. Dialogue: 0,0:12:41.12,0:12:43.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's an inertia based mechanism. Dialogue: 0,0:12:43.78,0:12:46.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Which will lock once the climber starts Dialogue: 0,0:12:46.56,0:12:49.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,falling faster than 4 meters per second. Dialogue: 0,0:12:49.35,0:12:51.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So if i pull slowly it doesn't lock. Dialogue: 0,0:12:51.75,0:12:56.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I need to pull really fast \Nin order for it to lock. Dialogue: 0,0:12:56.32,0:12:57.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So my goal of this video Dialogue: 0,0:12:57.94,0:13:00.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is not to compare all \Nof the delaying devices Dialogue: 0,0:13:00.32,0:13:02.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the market and \Ntell you which one to buy. Dialogue: 0,0:13:02.64,0:13:03.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Sorry for that. Dialogue: 0,0:13:03.76,0:13:09.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Every device have its own \Npros and cons, haters and lovers. Dialogue: 0,0:13:09.01,0:13:10.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Full internet of that. Dialogue: 0,0:13:10.30,0:13:12.100,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However if you would want such comparison Dialogue: 0,0:13:12.100,0:13:14.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,let me know in the comments and maybe Dialogue: 0,0:13:14.97,0:13:17.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I will make a separate video on that. Dialogue: 0,0:13:17.08,0:13:19.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,OK now I have a tip for you Dialogue: 0,0:13:19.09,0:13:21.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that will make your life \Na little bit easier Dialogue: 0,0:13:21.49,0:13:23.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and maybe will even save your ass Dialogue: 0,0:13:23.79,0:13:25.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on a multi-pitch one day. Dialogue: 0,0:13:25.04,0:13:26.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Humans, Dialogue: 0,0:13:26.16,0:13:28.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we have two hands normally Dialogue: 0,0:13:28.41,0:13:32.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and handling more than \Ntwo objects in two hands Dialogue: 0,0:13:32.40,0:13:33.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is not ideal. Dialogue: 0,0:13:33.43,0:13:36.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,What I often see that people\Ntake their belaying device, Dialogue: 0,0:13:36.13,0:13:37.77,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,their carabiner, the rope... Dialogue: 0,0:13:37.77,0:13:39.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That's already three objects by the way. Dialogue: 0,0:13:39.88,0:13:42.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And they try to connect everything Dialogue: 0,0:13:42.64,0:13:44.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in space Dialogue: 0,0:13:44.96,0:13:48.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like so... Dialogue: 0,0:13:49.44,0:13:50.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Ready to belay. Dialogue: 0,0:13:50.44,0:13:52.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So doing this Dialogue: 0,0:13:52.17,0:13:53.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will greatly increase the chance Dialogue: 0,0:13:53.83,0:13:55.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that one day you will drop something you will be Dialogue: 0,0:13:55.52,0:13:57.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,trying to connect something and then Dialogue: 0,0:13:57.28,0:13:59.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,suddenly whoops Dialogue: 0,0:13:59.36,0:14:01.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your billing device flies down if you're Dialogue: 0,0:14:01.44,0:14:03.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not on a multi-pitch if you're standing Dialogue: 0,0:14:03.04,0:14:05.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the ground that's not a big deal Dialogue: 0,0:14:05.28,0:14:07.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,however if you drop your billing device Dialogue: 0,0:14:07.68,0:14:09.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on a multi-pitch Dialogue: 0,0:14:09.20,0:14:11.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you are in big trouble so this is what Dialogue: 0,0:14:11.44,0:14:13.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you do to avoid that normally your blade Dialogue: 0,0:14:13.76,0:14:15.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device will live with your carabiner Dialogue: 0,0:14:15.92,0:14:17.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,somewhere on the harness Dialogue: 0,0:14:17.76,0:14:20.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so step one you take Dialogue: 0,0:14:20.32,0:14:23.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,both of them together as one unit so i'm Dialogue: 0,0:14:23.36,0:14:25.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,carrying only one unit and you Dialogue: 0,0:14:25.36,0:14:27.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,immediately connect it to the laying Dialogue: 0,0:14:27.44,0:14:28.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,loop Dialogue: 0,0:14:28.80,0:14:31.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so you cannot drop anything right now Dialogue: 0,0:14:31.28,0:14:33.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,everything is safe step two you take a Dialogue: 0,0:14:33.60,0:14:36.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bite of rope and you insert into your Dialogue: 0,0:14:36.00,0:14:37.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,blank device Dialogue: 0,0:14:37.60,0:14:39.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,keep in mind of the orientation of the Dialogue: 0,0:14:39.76,0:14:42.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope which end has to go to the climber Dialogue: 0,0:14:42.32,0:14:44.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which end is your break hand if you're Dialogue: 0,0:14:44.80,0:14:48.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not sure every blank device has an image Dialogue: 0,0:14:48.08,0:14:50.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the side of it which will remind you Dialogue: 0,0:14:50.56,0:14:52.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that and next Dialogue: 0,0:14:52.32,0:14:55.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,open your carabiner and hook your rope Dialogue: 0,0:14:55.04,0:14:56.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,together Dialogue: 0,0:14:56.40,0:14:58.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with the belaying device Dialogue: 0,0:14:58.48,0:15:01.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so at no point there was a chance of for Dialogue: 0,0:15:01.44,0:15:03.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,me to drop anything and once you're done Dialogue: 0,0:15:03.44,0:15:05.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,playing you simply reverse the process Dialogue: 0,0:15:05.60,0:15:08.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where you open the carabiner you unhook Dialogue: 0,0:15:08.24,0:15:10.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the rope but you hook the belaying Dialogue: 0,0:15:10.24,0:15:12.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device and then you simply can just pull Dialogue: 0,0:15:12.48,0:15:14.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,out the rope and your belaying device Dialogue: 0,0:15:14.24,0:15:16.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stays on your harness with the carabiner Dialogue: 0,0:15:16.48,0:15:18.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you want to put it somewhere else you Dialogue: 0,0:15:18.00,0:15:19.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,put it somewhere else and the same works Dialogue: 0,0:15:19.92,0:15:22.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with assisted tubers so step one connect Dialogue: 0,0:15:22.80,0:15:23.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your Dialogue: 0,0:15:23.92,0:15:26.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,blank device to your harness take a bite Dialogue: 0,0:15:26.64,0:15:29.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of rope put that bite of rope into the Dialogue: 0,0:15:29.28,0:15:31.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,laying device Dialogue: 0,0:15:31.52,0:15:34.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,open the carabiner and hook the rope and Dialogue: 0,0:15:34.24,0:15:36.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,playing device together Dialogue: 0,0:15:36.40,0:15:38.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now in case of the grigri it's slightly Dialogue: 0,0:15:38.72,0:15:42.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,different so as always step one clip Dialogue: 0,0:15:42.00,0:15:44.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your blank device to your belay loop so Dialogue: 0,0:15:44.16,0:15:46.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you cannot drop anything now if you're Dialogue: 0,0:15:46.08,0:15:48.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not on a multi-pitch and dropping your Dialogue: 0,0:15:48.00,0:15:50.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,grigri is not a big deal you simply take Dialogue: 0,0:15:50.00,0:15:53.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,off your grigri open it in this cool way Dialogue: 0,0:15:53.20,0:15:56.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,insert the rope and flip it back simple Dialogue: 0,0:15:56.72,0:15:59.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now if you are on a multi-pitch Dialogue: 0,0:15:59.76,0:16:02.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there is a technique so this is what you Dialogue: 0,0:16:02.00,0:16:05.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,do you open your carabiner Dialogue: 0,0:16:05.68,0:16:08.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and hook only half of the degree Dialogue: 0,0:16:08.40,0:16:10.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,together then you can open the grigri Dialogue: 0,0:16:10.80,0:16:12.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and it's connected to your carabiner you Dialogue: 0,0:16:12.88,0:16:15.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,cannot drop it you insert the rope you Dialogue: 0,0:16:15.84,0:16:17.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,close it Dialogue: 0,0:16:17.36,0:16:19.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then you open your carabiner again Dialogue: 0,0:16:19.60,0:16:21.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and hook the grigri back Dialogue: 0,0:16:21.76,0:16:24.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so this is as safe as you can do with Dialogue: 0,0:16:24.00,0:16:26.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the grigri on a multi page and obviously Dialogue: 0,0:16:26.80,0:16:28.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,once you're done it's just simply Dialogue: 0,0:16:28.48,0:16:31.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,reversing the process of Dialogue: 0,0:16:31.76,0:16:34.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,doing Dialogue: 0,0:16:34.84,0:16:37.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this and doing that Dialogue: 0,0:16:37.52,0:16:39.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay so i hope that by now i gave you Dialogue: 0,0:16:39.92,0:16:42.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,enough examples how not to use belaying Dialogue: 0,0:16:42.64,0:16:45.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,devices and now i'm gonna show you Dialogue: 0,0:16:45.20,0:16:48.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,proper techniques the good part is that Dialogue: 0,0:16:48.08,0:16:50.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,no matter what blank device you use good Dialogue: 0,0:16:50.80,0:16:53.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,belaying techniques don't change there Dialogue: 0,0:16:53.04,0:16:54.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are slight differences that i'm gonna Dialogue: 0,0:16:54.56,0:16:57.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,mention but for majority it's the same Dialogue: 0,0:16:57.44,0:16:58.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,all right Dialogue: 0,0:16:58.32,0:17:01.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so i hope that by now number two rule is Dialogue: 0,0:17:01.12,0:17:03.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,strongly embedded into you however if Dialogue: 0,0:17:03.92,0:17:06.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for some reason you really need to go Dialogue: 0,0:17:06.08,0:17:09.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hands-free you can tie a backup knot Dialogue: 0,0:17:09.52,0:17:12.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,at your brake and like so Dialogue: 0,0:17:12.40,0:17:14.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and this is totally fine Dialogue: 0,0:17:14.64,0:17:16.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in case something happens and the rope Dialogue: 0,0:17:16.80,0:17:18.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,would slip all the way Dialogue: 0,0:17:18.40,0:17:20.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the grigri will lock Dialogue: 0,0:17:20.40,0:17:22.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,however in the case of tube it's Dialogue: 0,0:17:22.24,0:17:24.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slightly different if you would just Dialogue: 0,0:17:24.08,0:17:25.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,simply Dialogue: 0,0:17:25.12,0:17:27.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tie a knot here Dialogue: 0,0:17:27.04,0:17:29.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the climber would fall there is a Dialogue: 0,0:17:29.12,0:17:31.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,chance that this knot will get Dialogue: 0,0:17:31.44,0:17:33.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,jammed in your blank device so hard that Dialogue: 0,0:17:33.84,0:17:37.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you will have trouble to Dialogue: 0,0:17:37.04,0:17:39.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,unjam it let's use a slightly different Dialogue: 0,0:17:39.12,0:17:41.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,carabiner so it's easier for you to see Dialogue: 0,0:17:41.20,0:17:43.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what's happening so Dialogue: 0,0:17:43.04,0:17:45.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in the case of tube you take a bite of Dialogue: 0,0:17:45.36,0:17:47.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope and then you take another bite of Dialogue: 0,0:17:47.60,0:17:50.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope and put through the first one Dialogue: 0,0:17:50.56,0:17:52.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you make it tight Dialogue: 0,0:17:52.64,0:17:54.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and make sure that this loop is long Dialogue: 0,0:17:54.24,0:17:55.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,enough Dialogue: 0,0:17:55.84,0:17:56.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like so Dialogue: 0,0:17:56.96,0:18:00.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this will hold but this is not enough to Dialogue: 0,0:18:00.00,0:18:01.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,make it Dialogue: 0,0:18:01.04,0:18:03.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,extra safe you tie in Dialogue: 0,0:18:03.92,0:18:06.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,back up knot here so now i can go Dialogue: 0,0:18:06.48,0:18:08.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hands-free and in case my climber takes Dialogue: 0,0:18:08.72,0:18:11.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a fall this will hold him and if i want Dialogue: 0,0:18:11.36,0:18:13.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to release all of that Dialogue: 0,0:18:13.20,0:18:15.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hold the brake side of the rope Dialogue: 0,0:18:15.84,0:18:17.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and tie the top Dialogue: 0,0:18:17.92,0:18:19.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,back up knot Dialogue: 0,0:18:19.20,0:18:22.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and start pulling the rope Dialogue: 0,0:18:22.80,0:18:25.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,until you have a little loop left Dialogue: 0,0:18:25.44,0:18:27.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,at this point inform your climber that Dialogue: 0,0:18:27.44,0:18:28.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,he might Dialogue: 0,0:18:28.40,0:18:30.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,feel a little bump Dialogue: 0,0:18:30.16,0:18:31.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and tug Dialogue: 0,0:18:31.28,0:18:32.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fast Dialogue: 0,0:18:32.48,0:18:34.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like so if you do this correctly your Dialogue: 0,0:18:34.40,0:18:36.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climber will not go down at all now if Dialogue: 0,0:18:36.64,0:18:40.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you're not familiar with slip slap slap Dialogue: 0,0:18:40.56,0:18:41.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this Dialogue: 0,0:18:41.44,0:18:42.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,technique Dialogue: 0,0:18:42.80,0:18:45.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,good you can safely ignore my next Dialogue: 0,0:18:45.20,0:18:47.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sentence however if you're using that Dialogue: 0,0:18:47.76,0:18:50.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,technique i would strongly advise you to Dialogue: 0,0:18:50.32,0:18:52.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,reconsider because in the case of the Dialogue: 0,0:18:52.72,0:18:54.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fall your hand might get sucked into the Dialogue: 0,0:18:54.88,0:18:57.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bellying device faster than you might Dialogue: 0,0:18:57.36,0:18:59.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,think so as a good rule of thumb keep Dialogue: 0,0:18:59.60,0:19:02.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your break hand always down and do any Dialogue: 0,0:19:02.80,0:19:06.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand swapping or sliding there so now a Dialogue: 0,0:19:06.88,0:19:08.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,little disclaimer i'm gonna show you Dialogue: 0,0:19:08.64,0:19:10.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,three different techniques of taking Dialogue: 0,0:19:10.64,0:19:13.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slack and depending on where you are on Dialogue: 0,0:19:13.44,0:19:16.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the planet some of them might be not Dialogue: 0,0:19:16.40,0:19:19.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,considered as acceptable so stick with Dialogue: 0,0:19:19.20,0:19:21.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,me i'm gonna explain because i went Dialogue: 0,0:19:21.52,0:19:23.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,really deep in this rabbit hole so all Dialogue: 0,0:19:23.84,0:19:25.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the techniques start the same your left Dialogue: 0,0:19:25.84,0:19:28.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand reaches up and pulls down on the Dialogue: 0,0:19:28.08,0:19:30.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope while at the same time your break Dialogue: 0,0:19:30.32,0:19:33.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand pushes forward and locks it down Dialogue: 0,0:19:33.28,0:19:35.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and now at this point you need to bring Dialogue: 0,0:19:35.36,0:19:36.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your right hand Dialogue: 0,0:19:36.80,0:19:38.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,up the rope and there are three Dialogue: 0,0:19:38.96,0:19:41.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,different ways to do so the first one Dialogue: 0,0:19:41.60,0:19:43.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's more popular in europe and it's Dialogue: 0,0:19:43.44,0:19:46.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,called hand over hand or v to the knee Dialogue: 0,0:19:46.64,0:19:50.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so you simply take your left hand and go Dialogue: 0,0:19:50.32,0:19:51.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,over Dialogue: 0,0:19:51.36,0:19:53.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your right hand and then right hand goes Dialogue: 0,0:19:53.76,0:19:55.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,over your left hand that's why it's Dialogue: 0,0:19:55.36,0:19:58.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,called hand over hand so you take Dialogue: 0,0:19:58.80,0:20:01.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand over hand you take Dialogue: 0,0:20:01.76,0:20:04.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand over hand so i find myself using Dialogue: 0,0:20:04.88,0:20:06.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this technique when the climber wants me Dialogue: 0,0:20:06.80,0:20:09.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to take really hard as he's moving up Dialogue: 0,0:20:09.36,0:20:12.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the rope because you're always pulling Dialogue: 0,0:20:12.08,0:20:15.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,down on the rope you can Dialogue: 0,0:20:15.04,0:20:17.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it kind of feels like climbing up the Dialogue: 0,0:20:17.92,0:20:19.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope Dialogue: 0,0:20:19.04,0:20:21.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,very comfortable Dialogue: 0,0:20:22.56,0:20:24.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so the problem with this technique is Dialogue: 0,0:20:24.40,0:20:26.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that when people get really good and can Dialogue: 0,0:20:26.56,0:20:29.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,do it really fast Dialogue: 0,0:20:29.20,0:20:32.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,they start letting go the brig and Dialogue: 0,0:20:32.32,0:20:34.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,before the left hand goes into the Dialogue: 0,0:20:34.80,0:20:37.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,locking position so we do this we take Dialogue: 0,0:20:37.76,0:20:40.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this let go already Dialogue: 0,0:20:40.40,0:20:43.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then go into locking position if the Dialogue: 0,0:20:43.04,0:20:45.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climber would fall in the moment where Dialogue: 0,0:20:45.68,0:20:48.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you let go this and you don't lock the Dialogue: 0,0:20:48.96,0:20:51.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand down you probably know what would Dialogue: 0,0:20:51.76,0:20:54.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,happen so obviously a simple solution Dialogue: 0,0:20:54.24,0:20:55.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,lock Dialogue: 0,0:20:55.04,0:20:57.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then in the locking position do any Dialogue: 0,0:20:57.52,0:20:59.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand swapping and another thing you need Dialogue: 0,0:20:59.52,0:21:01.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to be aware of that sometimes if the Dialogue: 0,0:21:01.92,0:21:04.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climber drops a bunch of slack your Dialogue: 0,0:21:04.08,0:21:06.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,blank device falls down and here you Dialogue: 0,0:21:06.40,0:21:09.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,need to be careful to not take your left Dialogue: 0,0:21:09.44,0:21:12.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand over the belaying device otherwise Dialogue: 0,0:21:12.56,0:21:15.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you do so and the climber falls your Dialogue: 0,0:21:15.68,0:21:16.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand Dialogue: 0,0:21:16.48,0:21:19.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,gets into this awkward position so Dialogue: 0,0:21:19.20,0:21:21.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,instead you reach under your blank Dialogue: 0,0:21:21.28,0:21:23.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device and you grab the rope and now if Dialogue: 0,0:21:23.76,0:21:26.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the climber would fall everything would Dialogue: 0,0:21:26.08,0:21:28.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,be fine all right next technique is Dialogue: 0,0:21:28.08,0:21:30.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,called p-bus which is more commonly used Dialogue: 0,0:21:30.48,0:21:33.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in america which means pull break so Dialogue: 0,0:21:33.84,0:21:36.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,basically the same stuff as before Dialogue: 0,0:21:36.48,0:21:40.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but now instead of taking over the hand Dialogue: 0,0:21:40.08,0:21:41.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you take under Dialogue: 0,0:21:41.92,0:21:46.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and slide so pull brake under slide Dialogue: 0,0:21:46.48,0:21:47.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pull brake Dialogue: 0,0:21:47.92,0:21:50.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,under slide so the benefit of this Dialogue: 0,0:21:50.48,0:21:52.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,technique is your strong hand never Dialogue: 0,0:21:52.56,0:21:54.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,leaves the rope a little drawback of Dialogue: 0,0:21:54.96,0:21:57.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this technique is when you have weight Dialogue: 0,0:21:57.36,0:21:59.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the rope and you're trying to take Dialogue: 0,0:21:59.28,0:22:00.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hard Dialogue: 0,0:22:00.24,0:22:02.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now sliding up this hand Dialogue: 0,0:22:02.88,0:22:06.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is not as comfortable as in Dialogue: 0,0:22:06.40,0:22:09.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand over hand technique Dialogue: 0,0:22:09.52,0:22:12.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so at some point as you will be Dialogue: 0,0:22:12.00,0:22:14.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,practicing your p-bus technique you will Dialogue: 0,0:22:14.80,0:22:17.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,realize that you don't actually need to Dialogue: 0,0:22:17.52,0:22:19.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bring your left hand down there in order Dialogue: 0,0:22:19.92,0:22:23.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to bring your big hand up you can simply Dialogue: 0,0:22:23.12,0:22:24.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slide it up Dialogue: 0,0:22:24.80,0:22:27.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and this is a third technique which is Dialogue: 0,0:22:27.04,0:22:29.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,called a tunnel technique and since your Dialogue: 0,0:22:29.52,0:22:32.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,left hand never leaves this rope Dialogue: 0,0:22:32.32,0:22:34.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's the most efficient technique Dialogue: 0,0:22:34.08,0:22:36.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because you can always switch between Dialogue: 0,0:22:36.32,0:22:39.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,taking slack and giving slack instantly Dialogue: 0,0:22:39.60,0:22:42.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so no matter in which moment of taking Dialogue: 0,0:22:42.56,0:22:45.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slack i am i can always give slack Dialogue: 0,0:22:45.36,0:22:47.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and contrary any other technique where Dialogue: 0,0:22:47.60,0:22:49.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,my left hand leaves Dialogue: 0,0:22:49.60,0:22:52.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now it needs to go back in order for me Dialogue: 0,0:22:52.24,0:22:55.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to give slack so it's an extra action Dialogue: 0,0:22:55.04,0:22:57.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,also tunnel technique is the best for Dialogue: 0,0:22:57.28,0:23:00.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,taking small amounts of slack Dialogue: 0,0:23:00.00,0:23:01.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if i would try to take a small amount of Dialogue: 0,0:23:01.92,0:23:04.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slack continuously with any other Dialogue: 0,0:23:04.24,0:23:06.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,technique it's Dialogue: 0,0:23:06.56,0:23:08.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a lot of hand Dialogue: 0,0:23:08.48,0:23:09.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,movements Dialogue: 0,0:23:09.84,0:23:11.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,while the tunnel technique it's very Dialogue: 0,0:23:11.92,0:23:13.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,relaxed Dialogue: 0,0:23:13.44,0:23:15.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and that's why it's the most efficient Dialogue: 0,0:23:15.60,0:23:18.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,technique however you might know or Dialogue: 0,0:23:18.08,0:23:20.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,maybe you don't this technique is Dialogue: 0,0:23:20.16,0:23:23.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,actually not considered acceptable in Dialogue: 0,0:23:23.12,0:23:25.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,some parts of the planet Dialogue: 0,0:23:25.12,0:23:27.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with the argument that during the moment Dialogue: 0,0:23:27.76,0:23:30.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where you slide the hand up Dialogue: 0,0:23:30.08,0:23:32.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you don't have a firm grip on the brake Dialogue: 0,0:23:32.32,0:23:34.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand and during the fall maybe you will Dialogue: 0,0:23:34.80,0:23:37.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not be able to catch the fall to which Dialogue: 0,0:23:37.28,0:23:39.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,here is my arguments Dialogue: 0,0:23:39.60,0:23:42.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,first of all if you use any assisted Dialogue: 0,0:23:42.32,0:23:45.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,belaying device you don't even need any Dialogue: 0,0:23:45.60,0:23:47.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hard grip on the brake side of the rope Dialogue: 0,0:23:47.84,0:23:52.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,any light tug will make the device lock Dialogue: 0,0:23:52.16,0:23:54.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so this is not an issue immediately now Dialogue: 0,0:23:54.80,0:23:57.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you are using a tube i actually went Dialogue: 0,0:23:57.20,0:23:59.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,out and did an experiment on this where Dialogue: 0,0:23:59.44,0:24:01.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i asked inexperienced belayers to keep Dialogue: 0,0:24:01.76,0:24:04.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,moving the hand up and down while i was Dialogue: 0,0:24:04.64,0:24:07.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,distracting them and the climber was Dialogue: 0,0:24:07.12,0:24:10.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,taking unexpected falls for them Dialogue: 0,0:24:10.16,0:24:12.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so stay tuned for that it's gonna be Dialogue: 0,0:24:12.40,0:24:14.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,really crazy and really interesting Dialogue: 0,0:24:14.16,0:24:16.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,episode but in general when sliding the Dialogue: 0,0:24:16.72,0:24:19.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand up don't make a big tunnel i don't Dialogue: 0,0:24:19.20,0:24:20.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like that this technique is actually Dialogue: 0,0:24:20.64,0:24:22.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,called a tunnel method Dialogue: 0,0:24:22.40,0:24:25.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it shouldn't be a tunnel you're barely Dialogue: 0,0:24:25.20,0:24:27.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,opening the hand just barely enough for Dialogue: 0,0:24:27.84,0:24:30.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it to slide up the rope and if you are a Dialogue: 0,0:24:30.32,0:24:32.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,beginner it's really good idea to start Dialogue: 0,0:24:32.56,0:24:35.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,practicing with pbus technique because Dialogue: 0,0:24:35.12,0:24:37.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you will be sliding your hand up the Dialogue: 0,0:24:37.52,0:24:39.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope a lot Dialogue: 0,0:24:39.04,0:24:42.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with the backup of your other hand Dialogue: 0,0:24:42.16,0:24:44.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you will learn the feeling of the Dialogue: 0,0:24:44.24,0:24:46.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope going through your hand so start Dialogue: 0,0:24:46.64,0:24:49.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with this and once you get really Dialogue: 0,0:24:49.20,0:24:51.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,comfortable with this Dialogue: 0,0:24:51.20,0:24:53.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not bringing the left hand down and just Dialogue: 0,0:24:53.60,0:24:56.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,doing this will feel very natural by Dialogue: 0,0:24:56.40,0:24:58.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that point Dialogue: 0,0:24:58.00,0:24:59.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and just to make sure that i'm not Dialogue: 0,0:24:59.60,0:25:01.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,missing something in regards of safety Dialogue: 0,0:25:01.76,0:25:03.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of these three techniques i wrote an Dialogue: 0,0:25:03.60,0:25:06.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,email to about 25 different climbing Dialogue: 0,0:25:06.96,0:25:09.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,safety related organizations and Dialogue: 0,0:25:09.12,0:25:11.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,associations and asked them to comment Dialogue: 0,0:25:11.36,0:25:13.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on these techniques not all of them Dialogue: 0,0:25:13.44,0:25:15.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,replied unfortunately however out of Dialogue: 0,0:25:15.92,0:25:18.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,those who replied none of them said Dialogue: 0,0:25:18.48,0:25:20.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,anything against of any particular Dialogue: 0,0:25:20.88,0:25:23.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,technique so as long as you follow the Dialogue: 0,0:25:23.20,0:25:25.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,basic guidelines of proper belaying you Dialogue: 0,0:25:25.76,0:25:27.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will be fine maybe with an exception if Dialogue: 0,0:25:27.92,0:25:29.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you're in the united states and you need Dialogue: 0,0:25:29.44,0:25:32.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to take a delaying exam then you might Dialogue: 0,0:25:32.08,0:25:35.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,be forced to use the pibas and few more Dialogue: 0,0:25:35.04,0:25:36.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,mistakes that people do when they're Dialogue: 0,0:25:36.64,0:25:39.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,taking slack first of all they take the Dialogue: 0,0:25:39.36,0:25:43.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slack like this or like this Dialogue: 0,0:25:43.76,0:25:46.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so unless you are using a assisted Dialogue: 0,0:25:46.32,0:25:48.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,building device and you're guaranteed Dialogue: 0,0:25:48.32,0:25:51.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that that device will lock at this angle Dialogue: 0,0:25:51.28,0:25:53.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which i will make a separate video on Dialogue: 0,0:25:53.44,0:25:56.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that you might be in trouble second Dialogue: 0,0:25:56.00,0:25:58.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,mistake is people hold Dialogue: 0,0:25:58.56,0:26:01.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,both strands of the rope with the left Dialogue: 0,0:26:01.04,0:26:04.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand they do something like this Dialogue: 0,0:26:04.48,0:26:06.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the reason why they do this is to Dialogue: 0,0:26:06.96,0:26:09.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,prevent the belaying device from falling Dialogue: 0,0:26:09.28,0:26:12.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,down there however to fix that you don't Dialogue: 0,0:26:12.16,0:26:14.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,need to hold both strands of the rope Dialogue: 0,0:26:14.00,0:26:15.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can just simply hold one strand of Dialogue: 0,0:26:15.92,0:26:17.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the rope and you will have Dialogue: 0,0:26:17.60,0:26:20.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,exactly the same result Dialogue: 0,0:26:20.64,0:26:22.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay that's a lot of talking about Dialogue: 0,0:26:22.32,0:26:24.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,taking slack i just felt that that's the Dialogue: 0,0:26:24.56,0:26:27.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,most important part and the rest will be Dialogue: 0,0:26:27.20,0:26:29.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,much more simple so to give slack you Dialogue: 0,0:26:29.60,0:26:31.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,simply reverse the tunneling technique Dialogue: 0,0:26:31.92,0:26:34.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where your left hand pulls up while your Dialogue: 0,0:26:34.24,0:26:36.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,right hand assists then the left hand Dialogue: 0,0:26:36.88,0:26:39.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,goes down and you slide the break hand Dialogue: 0,0:26:39.76,0:26:42.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,down and you repeat Dialogue: 0,0:26:43.68,0:26:46.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the same technique works with most Dialogue: 0,0:26:46.48,0:26:48.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of assisted delaying devices while with Dialogue: 0,0:26:48.88,0:26:50.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,some of assisted devices you will need a Dialogue: 0,0:26:50.88,0:26:53.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,special action with assisted tubers it's Dialogue: 0,0:26:53.60,0:26:55.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,common to push them up while you're Dialogue: 0,0:26:55.52,0:26:58.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,giving slack Dialogue: 0,0:26:58.40,0:27:00.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now in case of the grigri you can either Dialogue: 0,0:27:00.56,0:27:04.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,use that standard way of giving slack or Dialogue: 0,0:27:04.32,0:27:06.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can press and greek this cam and Dialogue: 0,0:27:06.40,0:27:07.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pull the rope Dialogue: 0,0:27:07.84,0:27:10.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,just don't forget the rule number two Dialogue: 0,0:27:10.24,0:27:13.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the rope stays in the hand all the time Dialogue: 0,0:27:13.36,0:27:15.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now in case you need to give a lot of Dialogue: 0,0:27:15.44,0:27:17.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slack quickly like if the climber is Dialogue: 0,0:27:17.68,0:27:20.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,about to clip you take your left hand Dialogue: 0,0:27:20.32,0:27:22.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,close to the laying device and your Dialogue: 0,0:27:22.16,0:27:24.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,break hand far from the laying device Dialogue: 0,0:27:24.40,0:27:26.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this is important only then you can give Dialogue: 0,0:27:26.80,0:27:28.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a lot of slack quickly Dialogue: 0,0:27:28.96,0:27:31.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if your left hand is somewhere up you Dialogue: 0,0:27:31.92,0:27:35.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will be limited by it how far up you can Dialogue: 0,0:27:35.84,0:27:38.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,raise this hand equally if your brick Dialogue: 0,0:27:38.64,0:27:41.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand is close you will be limited by Dialogue: 0,0:27:41.04,0:27:43.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that hand how fast you can give slack Dialogue: 0,0:27:43.20,0:27:45.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then you will need to Dialogue: 0,0:27:45.20,0:27:48.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,do more actions so left hand close right Dialogue: 0,0:27:48.32,0:27:50.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand far anticipate and you can give a Dialogue: 0,0:27:50.64,0:27:52.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,lot of slack quickly and if things go Dialogue: 0,0:27:52.88,0:27:54.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wrong you can take all of that slack Dialogue: 0,0:27:54.80,0:27:56.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,quickly back now when you need to lower Dialogue: 0,0:27:56.64,0:27:58.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the climber you take both of the hands Dialogue: 0,0:27:58.72,0:28:01.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the brake side of the rope and you Dialogue: 0,0:28:01.04,0:28:03.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,use one hand to feed the rope to the Dialogue: 0,0:28:03.92,0:28:05.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,other hand Dialogue: 0,0:28:05.36,0:28:08.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's one way or if you're comfortable Dialogue: 0,0:28:08.08,0:28:10.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can let the rope slide through both Dialogue: 0,0:28:10.00,0:28:12.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of your hands Dialogue: 0,0:28:12.24,0:28:14.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the risk here is however if you go too Dialogue: 0,0:28:14.84,0:28:17.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fast the rope will go so fast through Dialogue: 0,0:28:17.92,0:28:20.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,both of your hands that it can burn both Dialogue: 0,0:28:20.08,0:28:22.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of them and then you will probably drop Dialogue: 0,0:28:22.48,0:28:24.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your climber so simply don't go fast Dialogue: 0,0:28:24.96,0:28:27.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there is absolutely no point of lowering Dialogue: 0,0:28:27.28,0:28:29.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a climber fast there is nothing cool Dialogue: 0,0:28:29.12,0:28:31.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,about that it heats your equipment way Dialogue: 0,0:28:31.76,0:28:33.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,more wears down your equipment it's Dialogue: 0,0:28:33.76,0:28:36.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,expensive and go in a controlled manner Dialogue: 0,0:28:36.16,0:28:38.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and if you're not sure you can always Dialogue: 0,0:28:38.56,0:28:40.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,feed the rope like so and in case your Dialogue: 0,0:28:40.72,0:28:43.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climber takes a fall Dialogue: 0,0:28:43.68,0:28:46.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,just hold on the brake side of the rope Dialogue: 0,0:28:46.72,0:28:48.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,even if you have number two in your Dialogue: 0,0:28:48.56,0:28:52.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pants hold it never let go and as soon Dialogue: 0,0:28:52.16,0:28:54.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as your climber will regain the ground Dialogue: 0,0:28:54.80,0:28:57.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and unload the rope most of the blank Dialogue: 0,0:28:57.44,0:28:59.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,devices will unlock themselves and Dialogue: 0,0:28:59.36,0:29:01.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you're ready to continue delaying while Dialogue: 0,0:29:01.84,0:29:04.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with some devices like click up Dialogue: 0,0:29:04.80,0:29:07.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,once it locks you need a special action Dialogue: 0,0:29:07.60,0:29:10.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to unlock it to continue blaming so as i Dialogue: 0,0:29:10.72,0:29:12.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,already said it's a good idea to look Dialogue: 0,0:29:12.32,0:29:14.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,into the manual of your blank device to Dialogue: 0,0:29:14.24,0:29:17.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,know all these little nuances that there Dialogue: 0,0:29:17.36,0:29:19.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,might be now if you are teaching Dialogue: 0,0:29:19.60,0:29:22.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,beginners or you are a beginner yourself Dialogue: 0,0:29:22.16,0:29:24.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,practice using belaying device on the Dialogue: 0,0:29:24.48,0:29:27.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ground without a climber and only once Dialogue: 0,0:29:27.84,0:29:29.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you're completely comfortable and you're Dialogue: 0,0:29:29.60,0:29:32.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ready to go and actually play somebody Dialogue: 0,0:29:32.00,0:29:33.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,then make sure to have somebody Dialogue: 0,0:29:33.92,0:29:36.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,experienced backing up holding on the Dialogue: 0,0:29:36.56,0:29:39.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,break side of the rope and giving you Dialogue: 0,0:29:39.12,0:29:42.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,guidance assistance on your technique Dialogue: 0,0:29:42.00,0:29:44.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this is really important i actually once Dialogue: 0,0:29:44.96,0:29:47.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,saved a climber when inexperienced Dialogue: 0,0:29:47.28,0:29:49.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,belayer was using a grigri i was backing Dialogue: 0,0:29:49.92,0:29:51.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,up the rope Dialogue: 0,0:29:51.52,0:29:53.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and actually i was the one who caught Dialogue: 0,0:29:53.76,0:29:55.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the fall and the full story if you're Dialogue: 0,0:29:55.84,0:29:58.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,interested is in this video about grigri Dialogue: 0,0:29:58.72,0:30:00.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and of course don't take this video as a Dialogue: 0,0:30:00.64,0:30:02.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,complete guide into delaying there is Dialogue: 0,0:30:02.56,0:30:04.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,way more things you need to know from Dialogue: 0,0:30:04.88,0:30:07.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,proper slack management to soft catches Dialogue: 0,0:30:07.92,0:30:10.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to belayer movement to good Dialogue: 0,0:30:10.08,0:30:12.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,communication with your climber and all Dialogue: 0,0:30:12.24,0:30:14.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of that is coming in the future episodes Dialogue: 0,0:30:14.56,0:30:17.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of belay master class Dialogue: 0,0:30:18.00,0:30:19.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's a lot of effort to make these Dialogue: 0,0:30:19.52,0:30:22.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,videos to be honest and this video was Dialogue: 0,0:30:22.24,0:30:24.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,brought to you by mamut Dialogue: 0,0:30:24.48,0:30:26.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and by all the people who are supporting Dialogue: 0,0:30:26.96,0:30:30.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,me by visiting my website so huge thank Dialogue: 0,0:30:30.48,0:30:33.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you for everyone and see you in the next Dialogue: 0,0:30:33.60,0:30:36.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,episode