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Belaying devices.

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There are so many different
belaying devices

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nowadays on the market and in my hands.

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And after this video you will be able

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to pick any of them.

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Not from my hands.

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And you will know how it works 
and how to use it.

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So first of all, a belaying device
is simply a mechanism

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which allows to control

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the friction between your hand

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and the climber.

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Alright.

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So here I hang and here I have almost

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60 kilograms of force pulling 
on this strand of the rope.

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However for me to hold that

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I'm only using about 6 to 7 
kilograms of force

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on the brake side of the rope.

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However if I would start raising

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my brake hand up

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the force needed to hold that

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goes to 9 kilograms of force...

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10...

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12...

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15...

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So my max was around 25 kilograms of force

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with two hands in this position.

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That means that in this position 
at this angle

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I can not even hold my own weight
with two hands.

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There is no even talking about one hand.

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So now let's see how much
assistance I will get

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if my rope strands are completely 
parallel to each other.

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So I will start pulling up

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as hard as i can.

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And so the answer is almost nothing.

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Now to explain how that works

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since there is so many 
different belaying devices

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I'm gonna group all of them 
into different categories.

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First one is tubular style devices.

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That many mistakenly call them reverso.

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Which is only this device - 
Petzl Reverso.

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Or ATC which is this Black Diamond ATC.

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While Mammut calls this 
Alpine Belaying Device. Simple.

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So with tubes the more
I move my brake hand down

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the more it squeezes the rope between 
the carabiner and belaying device.

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And also tubes have 
a little groove in front of them.

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Which even further pinches on the rope.

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Plus as I pull down on the rope
it tilts the device

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which creates extra angles 
and extra friction.

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So as we saw in my previous experiment

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if my hand is at the 
level of the belaying device or higher

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the device creates very little friction.

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So if the climber would fall

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while my hand is 
in this position or higher

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there is a high chance 
that my hand would simply

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get sucked into the belaying device.

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I got my hand pinched...

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And then maybe i will hurt my hand

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And let go off the rope.

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So if you want to see how my hand is

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getting sucked into belaying device

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I already made a video about that.

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Also worth mentioning is that 
rope thickness or diameter

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has a huge effect on how easily

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the rope will go through belaying device.

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And every belaying device has a

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recommended range of rope thicknesses

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which you can find 
somewhere in the manuals

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or sometimes on the device itself.

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And this brings us to advantages

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of tubular style devices.

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First of all they work better with 
wider range of rope diameters.

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All the way from super thick gym ropes

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to ultra skinny twin ropes.

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On contrast if you would take a GriGri

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it says that it's optimized to work

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from 8.9 to 10.5 millimeters ropes.

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But from my experience

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anything from 10 millimeters and above

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doesn't work that well anymore.

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Yeah, there is this older GriGri
which works better with thicker ropes.

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But that one doesn't work well 
with thin ropes.

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Next, tubes are super lightweight.

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And they allow you to belay with two ropes

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either double ropes or twin ropes.

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And if you don't know
what's a double or twin rope

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you should watch
my master class on the ropes.

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Also with tubes you can make a soft catch

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without moving yourself.

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By allowing the rope 
to slip through the device.

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And in general tubes don't catch as hard

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because there is always 
a little bit of slippage

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which reduces the peak forces.

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Which might be very beneficial
for trad climbers.

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Since it reduces the chance

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that the pieces of the gear will fall out.

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And finally tubes have 
this loop at the top.

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And that allows you 
to set this device in a guide mode

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in which you can even belay 
two following climbers

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coming up on top rope simultaneously

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simon... simultaneously.

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and all of that are the reasons

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why tubes are still very commonly used

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in traditional or alpine 
or multi-pitch scenarios.

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However none of that is really useful

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if you're just doing 
single pitch sport climbing.

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And the biggest disadvantage of tubes

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is of course that they don't lock

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meaning if you would let go the rope.

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Which by the way brings us

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to the main rule of belaying.

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If you are in need of number two

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and you have a choice to poop your pants

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or to let go the brake side of the rope -

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you poop your pants!

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Meaning in no circumstances 
you're allowed to lose control

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of the brake side of the rope.

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And that's by the way also equally true

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for assisted building devices 
but we are gonna talk next.

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So assisted devices 
have an ability to lock

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in case the climber falls.

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Which obviously adds a lot of safety.

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For example if you would 
knock a rock while you're climbing

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and that rock would 
fall on your belayer's head...

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And that's why we wear a helmet!

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So first of all your belayer would 
really like to have a helmet.

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But you as a climber 
would really love that

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there would be one of these 
assisted devices down there.

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And in fact my own skin
was once saved by this guy.

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When I did a little fall

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and my belayer did not notice

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that there was a rock next to her leg.

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And while she was flying forward,

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her leg got stuck, and she spun around,

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and hit her back to the wall.

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And let both of the hands go.

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So this guy is basically a reason why 
I'm still here.

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And making these videos.

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Now super important that number two rule

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is also applicable for these guys.

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After all they are called assisted

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so don't treat them as fully automatic.

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Because there are cases 
where they will not lock.

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Apart from safety this locking is also

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super useful in long belays

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If your climber is hanging 
on the rope a lot

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and projecting some hard moves.

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So if we compare this to the tube

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even in the most mechanically 
advantaged position

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you will still need to hold on the rope.

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And in very long belays 
this will get tiring.

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While with assisted devices 
it's pretty chill.

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You are literally just 
sitting in your harness.

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OK, so the first group of 
assisted belaying devices

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is called assisted tubers.

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That's because they look like tubes

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and they work similarly to regular tubes

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where we squeeze the rope

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between the carabiner and the device.

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Except that they have a shape

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that shifts the carabiner in position

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where it squeezes on the rope so hard

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that it completely locks it off.

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A little disadvantage of assisted tubes

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is that once in locked position

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you cannot quickly 
feed slack to the climber.

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You need a special action 
to unlock the device

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before you can feed the rope

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For example with Click Up

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it even clicks

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and now I cannot do anything.

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I literally need to unclick it.

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And now I can continue belaying.

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Now one really important thing

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that not many know about assisted tubers

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That they suffer from the same problem

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as regular tubes

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meaning that 
if your hand is in up position

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the device will not lock.

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As you can see it's not locking

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And if the climber would take a fall

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the rope would just slide from my hand

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and burn it. Oh, it's already burning.

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However unlike regular tubes

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Where you can get your hands sucked

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even at very big angles

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most assisted tubers

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will only fail at the angles

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that are very extremely high up.

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And some actually don't fail at all.

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I'm actually gonna make a separate video

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where I was experimenting

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at which angles which devices lock.

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So stay tuned for that.

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I can't put everything 
into one video because

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I need you to subscribe.

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But independently of which 
belaying device you're using

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just develop a habit of keeping 
your brake hand down.

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Also good to know for people 
who climb with two ropes

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is that there are assisted tubers

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that work with two ropes.

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In case you go on a multi-pitch

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and you want extra safety 
you have some options.

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All right let's move on to 
cam assisted devices.

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I'm sure everybody knows GriGri.

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But there are more devices like

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Trango Vergo and Birdie and others.

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And the way they work is

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that they have a camming 
mechanism inside

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which pinches on the rope.

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Now in the case of GriGri

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the cam is spring-loaded 
meaning that as soon as

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there is no more load 
on the climber's end of the rope

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the cam will disengage.

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And you can belay normally.

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While in the case of Vergo

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it doesn't have a spring.

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And you need to position the device

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in a certain way

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to be able to feed the slack.

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All right back to GriGri.

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If you press on GriGri's cam

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but you ignore the rule number two

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and you don't hold
the break side of the rope

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this can happen...

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Also if you ignore rule number two

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and your GriGri gets trapped 
in the first piece of gear

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this can happen

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Many of you asked

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if this problem of 
trapping in the first bolt

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where it disengages the cam

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is also applicable for assisted tubers.

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So with most assisted devices

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the answer is unlikely.

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Since there is no cam that i could press

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to disengage this locking.

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Only if i would press on this end

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it kind of slips a bit but still

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stays locked.

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This Click Up

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doesn't even lock 
if i don't hold the rope.

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Amazing. Number two rule. Hold the rope.

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Yeah.

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There's no way I can unlock this

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in this manner.

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So no assisted tubers 
don't have this risk.

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Now this is a little future me

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after I was editing this part 
that you just seen.

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And I saw this I realized that

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I was using a wrong carabiner.

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Turns out Click Ups need 
their own specific carabiners

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And that's a reason why 
you should read the manual.

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So that's the carabiner 
you should use for a Click Up.

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Let's see if it locks.

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No difference.

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So number two rule.

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And read the manual

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because some of 
the assisted delaying devices

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require you a specific belaying carabiner.

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I don't know if it's just marketing

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or the shape of the carabiner 
is slightly different.

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Just use what the manufacturers recommend.

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And finally there is this guy.

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It's a Revo from Wild Country.

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It's an inertia based mechanism.

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Which will lock once the climber starts

266
00:12:46,560 --> 00:12:49,346
falling faster than 4 meters per second.

267
00:12:49,346 --> 00:12:51,753
So if i pull slowly it doesn't lock.

268
00:12:51,753 --> 00:12:56,320
I need to pull really fast 
in order for it to lock.

269
00:12:56,320 --> 00:12:57,940
So my goal of this video

270
00:12:57,940 --> 00:13:00,320
is not to compare all 
of the delaying devices

271
00:13:00,320 --> 00:13:02,639
on the market and 
tell you which one to buy.

272
00:13:02,639 --> 00:13:03,755
Sorry for that.

273
00:13:03,755 --> 00:13:09,010
Every device have its own 
pros and cons, haters and lovers.

274
00:13:09,010 --> 00:13:10,299
Full internet of that.

275
00:13:10,299 --> 00:13:12,997
However if you would want such comparison

276
00:13:12,997 --> 00:13:14,969
let me know in the comments and maybe

277
00:13:14,969 --> 00:13:17,081
I will make a separate video on that.

278
00:13:17,081 --> 00:13:19,087
OK now I have a tip for you

279
00:13:19,087 --> 00:13:21,491
that will make your life 
a little bit easier

280
00:13:21,491 --> 00:13:23,790
and maybe will even save your ass

281
00:13:23,790 --> 00:13:25,040
on a multi-pitch one day.

282
00:13:25,040 --> 00:13:26,160
Humans,

283
00:13:26,160 --> 00:13:28,409
we have two hands normally

284
00:13:28,409 --> 00:13:32,399
and handling more than 
two objects in two hands

285
00:13:32,399 --> 00:13:33,430
is not ideal.

286
00:13:33,430 --> 00:13:36,130
What I often see that people
take their belaying device,

287
00:13:36,130 --> 00:13:37,773
their carabiner, the rope...

288
00:13:37,773 --> 00:13:39,879
That's already three objects by the way.

289
00:13:39,879 --> 00:13:42,639
And they try to connect everything

290
00:13:42,639 --> 00:13:44,959
in space

291
00:13:44,959 --> 00:13:48,440
like so...

292
00:13:49,440 --> 00:13:50,443
Ready to belay.

293
00:13:50,443 --> 00:13:52,170
So doing this

294
00:13:52,170 --> 00:13:53,834
will greatly increase the chance

295
00:13:53,834 --> 00:13:55,519
that one day you will drop something you will be

296
00:13:55,519 --> 00:13:57,279
trying to connect something and then

297
00:13:57,279 --> 00:13:59,360
suddenly whoops

298
00:13:59,360 --> 00:14:01,440
your billing device flies down if you're

299
00:14:01,440 --> 00:14:03,040
not on a multi-pitch if you're standing

300
00:14:03,040 --> 00:14:05,279
on the ground that's not a big deal

301
00:14:05,279 --> 00:14:07,680
however if you drop your billing device

302
00:14:07,680 --> 00:14:09,199
on a multi-pitch

303
00:14:09,199 --> 00:14:11,440
you are in big trouble so this is what

304
00:14:11,440 --> 00:14:13,760
you do to avoid that normally your blade

305
00:14:13,760 --> 00:14:15,920
device will live with your carabiner

306
00:14:15,920 --> 00:14:17,760
somewhere on the harness

307
00:14:17,760 --> 00:14:20,320
so step one you take

308
00:14:20,320 --> 00:14:23,360
both of them together as one unit so i'm

309
00:14:23,360 --> 00:14:25,360
carrying only one unit and you

310
00:14:25,360 --> 00:14:27,440
immediately connect it to the laying

311
00:14:27,440 --> 00:14:28,800
loop

312
00:14:28,800 --> 00:14:31,279
so you cannot drop anything right now

313
00:14:31,279 --> 00:14:33,600
everything is safe step two you take a

314
00:14:33,600 --> 00:14:36,000
bite of rope and you insert into your

315
00:14:36,000 --> 00:14:37,600
blank device

316
00:14:37,600 --> 00:14:39,760
keep in mind of the orientation of the

317
00:14:39,760 --> 00:14:42,320
rope which end has to go to the climber

318
00:14:42,320 --> 00:14:44,800
which end is your break hand if you're

319
00:14:44,800 --> 00:14:48,079
not sure every blank device has an image

320
00:14:48,079 --> 00:14:50,560
on the side of it which will remind you

321
00:14:50,560 --> 00:14:52,320
that and next

322
00:14:52,320 --> 00:14:55,040
open your carabiner and hook your rope

323
00:14:55,040 --> 00:14:56,399
together

324
00:14:56,399 --> 00:14:58,480
with the belaying device

325
00:14:58,480 --> 00:15:01,440
so at no point there was a chance of for

326
00:15:01,440 --> 00:15:03,440
me to drop anything and once you're done

327
00:15:03,440 --> 00:15:05,600
playing you simply reverse the process

328
00:15:05,600 --> 00:15:08,240
where you open the carabiner you unhook

329
00:15:08,240 --> 00:15:10,240
the rope but you hook the belaying

330
00:15:10,240 --> 00:15:12,480
device and then you simply can just pull

331
00:15:12,480 --> 00:15:14,240
out the rope and your belaying device

332
00:15:14,240 --> 00:15:16,480
stays on your harness with the carabiner

333
00:15:16,480 --> 00:15:18,000
if you want to put it somewhere else you

334
00:15:18,000 --> 00:15:19,920
put it somewhere else and the same works

335
00:15:19,920 --> 00:15:22,800
with assisted tubers so step one connect

336
00:15:22,800 --> 00:15:23,920
your

337
00:15:23,920 --> 00:15:26,639
blank device to your harness take a bite

338
00:15:26,639 --> 00:15:29,279
of rope put that bite of rope into the

339
00:15:29,279 --> 00:15:31,519
laying device

340
00:15:31,519 --> 00:15:34,240
open the carabiner and hook the rope and

341
00:15:34,240 --> 00:15:36,399
playing device together

342
00:15:36,399 --> 00:15:38,720
now in case of the grigri it's slightly

343
00:15:38,720 --> 00:15:42,000
different so as always step one clip

344
00:15:42,000 --> 00:15:44,160
your blank device to your belay loop so

345
00:15:44,160 --> 00:15:46,079
you cannot drop anything now if you're

346
00:15:46,079 --> 00:15:48,000
not on a multi-pitch and dropping your

347
00:15:48,000 --> 00:15:50,000
grigri is not a big deal you simply take

348
00:15:50,000 --> 00:15:53,199
off your grigri open it in this cool way

349
00:15:53,199 --> 00:15:56,720
insert the rope and flip it back simple

350
00:15:56,720 --> 00:15:59,759
now if you are on a multi-pitch

351
00:15:59,759 --> 00:16:02,000
there is a technique so this is what you

352
00:16:02,000 --> 00:16:05,680
do you open your carabiner

353
00:16:05,680 --> 00:16:08,399
and hook only half of the degree

354
00:16:08,399 --> 00:16:10,800
together then you can open the grigri

355
00:16:10,800 --> 00:16:12,880
and it's connected to your carabiner you

356
00:16:12,880 --> 00:16:15,839
cannot drop it you insert the rope you

357
00:16:15,839 --> 00:16:17,360
close it

358
00:16:17,360 --> 00:16:19,600
and then you open your carabiner again

359
00:16:19,600 --> 00:16:21,759
and hook the grigri back

360
00:16:21,759 --> 00:16:24,000
so this is as safe as you can do with

361
00:16:24,000 --> 00:16:26,800
the grigri on a multi page and obviously

362
00:16:26,800 --> 00:16:28,480
once you're done it's just simply

363
00:16:28,480 --> 00:16:31,759
reversing the process of

364
00:16:31,759 --> 00:16:34,079
doing

365
00:16:34,839 --> 00:16:37,519
this and doing that

366
00:16:37,519 --> 00:16:39,920
okay so i hope that by now i gave you

367
00:16:39,920 --> 00:16:42,639
enough examples how not to use belaying

368
00:16:42,639 --> 00:16:45,199
devices and now i'm gonna show you

369
00:16:45,199 --> 00:16:48,079
proper techniques the good part is that

370
00:16:48,079 --> 00:16:50,800
no matter what blank device you use good

371
00:16:50,800 --> 00:16:53,040
belaying techniques don't change there

372
00:16:53,040 --> 00:16:54,560
are slight differences that i'm gonna

373
00:16:54,560 --> 00:16:57,440
mention but for majority it's the same

374
00:16:57,440 --> 00:16:58,320
all right

375
00:16:58,320 --> 00:17:01,120
so i hope that by now number two rule is

376
00:17:01,120 --> 00:17:03,920
strongly embedded into you however if

377
00:17:03,920 --> 00:17:06,079
for some reason you really need to go

378
00:17:06,079 --> 00:17:09,520
hands-free you can tie a backup knot

379
00:17:09,520 --> 00:17:12,400
at your brake and like so

380
00:17:12,400 --> 00:17:14,640
and this is totally fine

381
00:17:14,640 --> 00:17:16,799
in case something happens and the rope

382
00:17:16,799 --> 00:17:18,400
would slip all the way

383
00:17:18,400 --> 00:17:20,400
the grigri will lock

384
00:17:20,400 --> 00:17:22,240
however in the case of tube it's

385
00:17:22,240 --> 00:17:24,079
slightly different if you would just

386
00:17:24,079 --> 00:17:25,120
simply

387
00:17:25,120 --> 00:17:27,039
tie a knot here

388
00:17:27,039 --> 00:17:29,120
and the climber would fall there is a

389
00:17:29,120 --> 00:17:31,440
chance that this knot will get

390
00:17:31,440 --> 00:17:33,840
jammed in your blank device so hard that

391
00:17:33,840 --> 00:17:37,039
you will have trouble to

392
00:17:37,039 --> 00:17:39,120
unjam it let's use a slightly different

393
00:17:39,120 --> 00:17:41,200
carabiner so it's easier for you to see

394
00:17:41,200 --> 00:17:43,039
what's happening so

395
00:17:43,039 --> 00:17:45,360
in the case of tube you take a bite of

396
00:17:45,360 --> 00:17:47,600
rope and then you take another bite of

397
00:17:47,600 --> 00:17:50,559
rope and put through the first one

398
00:17:50,559 --> 00:17:52,640
and you make it tight

399
00:17:52,640 --> 00:17:54,240
and make sure that this loop is long

400
00:17:54,240 --> 00:17:55,840
enough

401
00:17:55,840 --> 00:17:56,960
like so

402
00:17:56,960 --> 00:18:00,000
this will hold but this is not enough to

403
00:18:00,000 --> 00:18:01,039
make it

404
00:18:01,039 --> 00:18:03,919
extra safe you tie in

405
00:18:03,919 --> 00:18:06,480
back up knot here so now i can go

406
00:18:06,480 --> 00:18:08,720
hands-free and in case my climber takes

407
00:18:08,720 --> 00:18:11,360
a fall this will hold him and if i want

408
00:18:11,360 --> 00:18:13,200
to release all of that

409
00:18:13,200 --> 00:18:15,840
hold the brake side of the rope

410
00:18:15,840 --> 00:18:17,919
and tie the top

411
00:18:17,919 --> 00:18:19,200
back up knot

412
00:18:19,200 --> 00:18:22,799
and start pulling the rope

413
00:18:22,799 --> 00:18:25,440
until you have a little loop left

414
00:18:25,440 --> 00:18:27,440
at this point inform your climber that

415
00:18:27,440 --> 00:18:28,400
he might

416
00:18:28,400 --> 00:18:30,160
feel a little bump

417
00:18:30,160 --> 00:18:31,280
and tug

418
00:18:31,280 --> 00:18:32,480
fast

419
00:18:32,480 --> 00:18:34,400
like so if you do this correctly your

420
00:18:34,400 --> 00:18:36,640
climber will not go down at all now if

421
00:18:36,640 --> 00:18:40,559
you're not familiar with slip slap slap

422
00:18:40,559 --> 00:18:41,440
this

423
00:18:41,440 --> 00:18:42,799
technique

424
00:18:42,799 --> 00:18:45,200
good you can safely ignore my next

425
00:18:45,200 --> 00:18:47,760
sentence however if you're using that

426
00:18:47,760 --> 00:18:50,320
technique i would strongly advise you to

427
00:18:50,320 --> 00:18:52,720
reconsider because in the case of the

428
00:18:52,720 --> 00:18:54,880
fall your hand might get sucked into the

429
00:18:54,880 --> 00:18:57,360
bellying device faster than you might

430
00:18:57,360 --> 00:18:59,600
think so as a good rule of thumb keep

431
00:18:59,600 --> 00:19:02,799
your break hand always down and do any

432
00:19:02,799 --> 00:19:06,880
hand swapping or sliding there so now a

433
00:19:06,880 --> 00:19:08,640
little disclaimer i'm gonna show you

434
00:19:08,640 --> 00:19:10,640
three different techniques of taking

435
00:19:10,640 --> 00:19:13,440
slack and depending on where you are on

436
00:19:13,440 --> 00:19:16,400
the planet some of them might be not

437
00:19:16,400 --> 00:19:19,200
considered as acceptable so stick with

438
00:19:19,200 --> 00:19:21,520
me i'm gonna explain because i went

439
00:19:21,520 --> 00:19:23,840
really deep in this rabbit hole so all

440
00:19:23,840 --> 00:19:25,840
the techniques start the same your left

441
00:19:25,840 --> 00:19:28,080
hand reaches up and pulls down on the

442
00:19:28,080 --> 00:19:30,320
rope while at the same time your break

443
00:19:30,320 --> 00:19:33,280
hand pushes forward and locks it down

444
00:19:33,280 --> 00:19:35,360
and now at this point you need to bring

445
00:19:35,360 --> 00:19:36,799
your right hand

446
00:19:36,799 --> 00:19:38,960
up the rope and there are three

447
00:19:38,960 --> 00:19:41,600
different ways to do so the first one

448
00:19:41,600 --> 00:19:43,440
it's more popular in europe and it's

449
00:19:43,440 --> 00:19:46,640
called hand over hand or v to the knee

450
00:19:46,640 --> 00:19:50,320
so you simply take your left hand and go

451
00:19:50,320 --> 00:19:51,360
over

452
00:19:51,360 --> 00:19:53,760
your right hand and then right hand goes

453
00:19:53,760 --> 00:19:55,360
over your left hand that's why it's

454
00:19:55,360 --> 00:19:58,799
called hand over hand so you take

455
00:19:58,799 --> 00:20:01,760
hand over hand you take

456
00:20:01,760 --> 00:20:04,880
hand over hand so i find myself using

457
00:20:04,880 --> 00:20:06,799
this technique when the climber wants me

458
00:20:06,799 --> 00:20:09,360
to take really hard as he's moving up

459
00:20:09,360 --> 00:20:12,080
the rope because you're always pulling

460
00:20:12,080 --> 00:20:15,039
down on the rope you can

461
00:20:15,039 --> 00:20:17,919
it kind of feels like climbing up the

462
00:20:17,919 --> 00:20:19,039
rope

463
00:20:19,039 --> 00:20:21,840
very comfortable

464
00:20:22,559 --> 00:20:24,400
so the problem with this technique is

465
00:20:24,400 --> 00:20:26,559
that when people get really good and can

466
00:20:26,559 --> 00:20:29,200
do it really fast

467
00:20:29,200 --> 00:20:32,320
they start letting go the brig and

468
00:20:32,320 --> 00:20:34,799
before the left hand goes into the

469
00:20:34,799 --> 00:20:37,760
locking position so we do this we take

470
00:20:37,760 --> 00:20:40,400
this let go already

471
00:20:40,400 --> 00:20:43,039
and then go into locking position if the

472
00:20:43,039 --> 00:20:45,679
climber would fall in the moment where

473
00:20:45,679 --> 00:20:48,960
you let go this and you don't lock the

474
00:20:48,960 --> 00:20:51,760
hand down you probably know what would

475
00:20:51,760 --> 00:20:54,240
happen so obviously a simple solution

476
00:20:54,240 --> 00:20:55,039
lock

477
00:20:55,039 --> 00:20:57,520
and then in the locking position do any

478
00:20:57,520 --> 00:20:59,520
hand swapping and another thing you need

479
00:20:59,520 --> 00:21:01,919
to be aware of that sometimes if the

480
00:21:01,919 --> 00:21:04,080
climber drops a bunch of slack your

481
00:21:04,080 --> 00:21:06,400
blank device falls down and here you

482
00:21:06,400 --> 00:21:09,440
need to be careful to not take your left

483
00:21:09,440 --> 00:21:12,559
hand over the belaying device otherwise

484
00:21:12,559 --> 00:21:15,679
if you do so and the climber falls your

485
00:21:15,679 --> 00:21:16,480
hand

486
00:21:16,480 --> 00:21:19,200
gets into this awkward position so

487
00:21:19,200 --> 00:21:21,280
instead you reach under your blank

488
00:21:21,280 --> 00:21:23,760
device and you grab the rope and now if

489
00:21:23,760 --> 00:21:26,080
the climber would fall everything would

490
00:21:26,080 --> 00:21:28,080
be fine all right next technique is

491
00:21:28,080 --> 00:21:30,480
called p-bus which is more commonly used

492
00:21:30,480 --> 00:21:33,840
in america which means pull break so

493
00:21:33,840 --> 00:21:36,480
basically the same stuff as before

494
00:21:36,480 --> 00:21:40,080
but now instead of taking over the hand

495
00:21:40,080 --> 00:21:41,919
you take under

496
00:21:41,919 --> 00:21:46,480
and slide so pull brake under slide

497
00:21:46,480 --> 00:21:47,919
pull brake

498
00:21:47,919 --> 00:21:50,480
under slide so the benefit of this

499
00:21:50,480 --> 00:21:52,559
technique is your strong hand never

500
00:21:52,559 --> 00:21:54,960
leaves the rope a little drawback of

501
00:21:54,960 --> 00:21:57,360
this technique is when you have weight

502
00:21:57,360 --> 00:21:59,280
on the rope and you're trying to take

503
00:21:59,280 --> 00:22:00,240
hard

504
00:22:00,240 --> 00:22:02,880
now sliding up this hand

505
00:22:02,880 --> 00:22:06,400
is not as comfortable as in

506
00:22:06,400 --> 00:22:09,520
hand over hand technique

507
00:22:09,520 --> 00:22:12,000
so at some point as you will be

508
00:22:12,000 --> 00:22:14,799
practicing your p-bus technique you will

509
00:22:14,799 --> 00:22:17,520
realize that you don't actually need to

510
00:22:17,520 --> 00:22:19,919
bring your left hand down there in order

511
00:22:19,919 --> 00:22:23,120
to bring your big hand up you can simply

512
00:22:23,120 --> 00:22:24,799
slide it up

513
00:22:24,799 --> 00:22:27,039
and this is a third technique which is

514
00:22:27,039 --> 00:22:29,520
called a tunnel technique and since your

515
00:22:29,520 --> 00:22:32,320
left hand never leaves this rope

516
00:22:32,320 --> 00:22:34,080
it's the most efficient technique

517
00:22:34,080 --> 00:22:36,320
because you can always switch between

518
00:22:36,320 --> 00:22:39,600
taking slack and giving slack instantly

519
00:22:39,600 --> 00:22:42,559
so no matter in which moment of taking

520
00:22:42,559 --> 00:22:45,360
slack i am i can always give slack

521
00:22:45,360 --> 00:22:47,600
and contrary any other technique where

522
00:22:47,600 --> 00:22:49,600
my left hand leaves

523
00:22:49,600 --> 00:22:52,240
now it needs to go back in order for me

524
00:22:52,240 --> 00:22:55,039
to give slack so it's an extra action

525
00:22:55,039 --> 00:22:57,280
also tunnel technique is the best for

526
00:22:57,280 --> 00:23:00,000
taking small amounts of slack

527
00:23:00,000 --> 00:23:01,919
if i would try to take a small amount of

528
00:23:01,919 --> 00:23:04,240
slack continuously with any other

529
00:23:04,240 --> 00:23:06,559
technique it's

530
00:23:06,559 --> 00:23:08,480
a lot of hand

531
00:23:08,480 --> 00:23:09,840
movements

532
00:23:09,840 --> 00:23:11,919
while the tunnel technique it's very

533
00:23:11,919 --> 00:23:13,440
relaxed

534
00:23:13,440 --> 00:23:15,600
and that's why it's the most efficient

535
00:23:15,600 --> 00:23:18,080
technique however you might know or

536
00:23:18,080 --> 00:23:20,159
maybe you don't this technique is

537
00:23:20,159 --> 00:23:23,120
actually not considered acceptable in

538
00:23:23,120 --> 00:23:25,120
some parts of the planet

539
00:23:25,120 --> 00:23:27,760
with the argument that during the moment

540
00:23:27,760 --> 00:23:30,080
where you slide the hand up

541
00:23:30,080 --> 00:23:32,320
you don't have a firm grip on the brake

542
00:23:32,320 --> 00:23:34,799
hand and during the fall maybe you will

543
00:23:34,799 --> 00:23:37,280
not be able to catch the fall to which

544
00:23:37,280 --> 00:23:39,600
here is my arguments

545
00:23:39,600 --> 00:23:42,320
first of all if you use any assisted

546
00:23:42,320 --> 00:23:45,600
belaying device you don't even need any

547
00:23:45,600 --> 00:23:47,840
hard grip on the brake side of the rope

548
00:23:47,840 --> 00:23:52,159
any light tug will make the device lock

549
00:23:52,159 --> 00:23:54,799
so this is not an issue immediately now

550
00:23:54,799 --> 00:23:57,200
if you are using a tube i actually went

551
00:23:57,200 --> 00:23:59,440
out and did an experiment on this where

552
00:23:59,440 --> 00:24:01,760
i asked inexperienced belayers to keep

553
00:24:01,760 --> 00:24:04,640
moving the hand up and down while i was

554
00:24:04,640 --> 00:24:07,120
distracting them and the climber was

555
00:24:07,120 --> 00:24:10,159
taking unexpected falls for them

556
00:24:10,159 --> 00:24:12,400
so stay tuned for that it's gonna be

557
00:24:12,400 --> 00:24:14,159
really crazy and really interesting

558
00:24:14,159 --> 00:24:16,720
episode but in general when sliding the

559
00:24:16,720 --> 00:24:19,200
hand up don't make a big tunnel i don't

560
00:24:19,200 --> 00:24:20,640
like that this technique is actually

561
00:24:20,640 --> 00:24:22,400
called a tunnel method

562
00:24:22,400 --> 00:24:25,200
it shouldn't be a tunnel you're barely

563
00:24:25,200 --> 00:24:27,840
opening the hand just barely enough for

564
00:24:27,840 --> 00:24:30,320
it to slide up the rope and if you are a

565
00:24:30,320 --> 00:24:32,559
beginner it's really good idea to start

566
00:24:32,559 --> 00:24:35,120
practicing with pbus technique because

567
00:24:35,120 --> 00:24:37,520
you will be sliding your hand up the

568
00:24:37,520 --> 00:24:39,039
rope a lot

569
00:24:39,039 --> 00:24:42,159
with the backup of your other hand

570
00:24:42,159 --> 00:24:44,240
and you will learn the feeling of the

571
00:24:44,240 --> 00:24:46,640
rope going through your hand so start

572
00:24:46,640 --> 00:24:49,200
with this and once you get really

573
00:24:49,200 --> 00:24:51,200
comfortable with this

574
00:24:51,200 --> 00:24:53,600
not bringing the left hand down and just

575
00:24:53,600 --> 00:24:56,400
doing this will feel very natural by

576
00:24:56,400 --> 00:24:58,000
that point

577
00:24:58,000 --> 00:24:59,600
and just to make sure that i'm not

578
00:24:59,600 --> 00:25:01,760
missing something in regards of safety

579
00:25:01,760 --> 00:25:03,600
of these three techniques i wrote an

580
00:25:03,600 --> 00:25:06,960
email to about 25 different climbing

581
00:25:06,960 --> 00:25:09,120
safety related organizations and

582
00:25:09,120 --> 00:25:11,360
associations and asked them to comment

583
00:25:11,360 --> 00:25:13,440
on these techniques not all of them

584
00:25:13,440 --> 00:25:15,919
replied unfortunately however out of

585
00:25:15,919 --> 00:25:18,480
those who replied none of them said

586
00:25:18,480 --> 00:25:20,880
anything against of any particular

587
00:25:20,880 --> 00:25:23,200
technique so as long as you follow the

588
00:25:23,200 --> 00:25:25,760
basic guidelines of proper belaying you

589
00:25:25,760 --> 00:25:27,919
will be fine maybe with an exception if

590
00:25:27,919 --> 00:25:29,440
you're in the united states and you need

591
00:25:29,440 --> 00:25:32,080
to take a delaying exam then you might

592
00:25:32,080 --> 00:25:35,039
be forced to use the pibas and few more

593
00:25:35,039 --> 00:25:36,640
mistakes that people do when they're

594
00:25:36,640 --> 00:25:39,360
taking slack first of all they take the

595
00:25:39,360 --> 00:25:43,760
slack like this or like this

596
00:25:43,760 --> 00:25:46,320
so unless you are using a assisted

597
00:25:46,320 --> 00:25:48,320
building device and you're guaranteed

598
00:25:48,320 --> 00:25:51,279
that that device will lock at this angle

599
00:25:51,279 --> 00:25:53,440
which i will make a separate video on

600
00:25:53,440 --> 00:25:56,000
that you might be in trouble second

601
00:25:56,000 --> 00:25:58,559
mistake is people hold

602
00:25:58,559 --> 00:26:01,039
both strands of the rope with the left

603
00:26:01,039 --> 00:26:04,480
hand they do something like this

604
00:26:04,480 --> 00:26:06,960
the reason why they do this is to

605
00:26:06,960 --> 00:26:09,279
prevent the belaying device from falling

606
00:26:09,279 --> 00:26:12,159
down there however to fix that you don't

607
00:26:12,159 --> 00:26:14,000
need to hold both strands of the rope

608
00:26:14,000 --> 00:26:15,919
you can just simply hold one strand of

609
00:26:15,919 --> 00:26:17,600
the rope and you will have

610
00:26:17,600 --> 00:26:20,640
exactly the same result

611
00:26:20,640 --> 00:26:22,320
okay that's a lot of talking about

612
00:26:22,320 --> 00:26:24,559
taking slack i just felt that that's the

613
00:26:24,559 --> 00:26:27,200
most important part and the rest will be

614
00:26:27,200 --> 00:26:29,600
much more simple so to give slack you

615
00:26:29,600 --> 00:26:31,919
simply reverse the tunneling technique

616
00:26:31,919 --> 00:26:34,240
where your left hand pulls up while your

617
00:26:34,240 --> 00:26:36,880
right hand assists then the left hand

618
00:26:36,880 --> 00:26:39,760
goes down and you slide the break hand

619
00:26:39,760 --> 00:26:42,880
down and you repeat

620
00:26:43,679 --> 00:26:46,480
and the same technique works with most

621
00:26:46,480 --> 00:26:48,880
of assisted delaying devices while with

622
00:26:48,880 --> 00:26:50,880
some of assisted devices you will need a

623
00:26:50,880 --> 00:26:53,600
special action with assisted tubers it's

624
00:26:53,600 --> 00:26:55,520
common to push them up while you're

625
00:26:55,520 --> 00:26:58,320
giving slack

626
00:26:58,400 --> 00:27:00,559
now in case of the grigri you can either

627
00:27:00,559 --> 00:27:04,320
use that standard way of giving slack or

628
00:27:04,320 --> 00:27:06,400
you can press and greek this cam and

629
00:27:06,400 --> 00:27:07,840
pull the rope

630
00:27:07,840 --> 00:27:10,240
just don't forget the rule number two

631
00:27:10,240 --> 00:27:13,360
the rope stays in the hand all the time

632
00:27:13,360 --> 00:27:15,440
now in case you need to give a lot of

633
00:27:15,440 --> 00:27:17,679
slack quickly like if the climber is

634
00:27:17,679 --> 00:27:20,320
about to clip you take your left hand

635
00:27:20,320 --> 00:27:22,159
close to the laying device and your

636
00:27:22,159 --> 00:27:24,399
break hand far from the laying device

637
00:27:24,399 --> 00:27:26,799
this is important only then you can give

638
00:27:26,799 --> 00:27:28,960
a lot of slack quickly

639
00:27:28,960 --> 00:27:31,919
if your left hand is somewhere up you

640
00:27:31,919 --> 00:27:35,840
will be limited by it how far up you can

641
00:27:35,840 --> 00:27:38,640
raise this hand equally if your brick

642
00:27:38,640 --> 00:27:41,039
hand is close you will be limited by

643
00:27:41,039 --> 00:27:43,200
that hand how fast you can give slack

644
00:27:43,200 --> 00:27:45,200
and then you will need to

645
00:27:45,200 --> 00:27:48,320
do more actions so left hand close right

646
00:27:48,320 --> 00:27:50,640
hand far anticipate and you can give a

647
00:27:50,640 --> 00:27:52,880
lot of slack quickly and if things go

648
00:27:52,880 --> 00:27:54,799
wrong you can take all of that slack

649
00:27:54,799 --> 00:27:56,640
quickly back now when you need to lower

650
00:27:56,640 --> 00:27:58,720
the climber you take both of the hands

651
00:27:58,720 --> 00:28:01,039
on the brake side of the rope and you

652
00:28:01,039 --> 00:28:03,919
use one hand to feed the rope to the

653
00:28:03,919 --> 00:28:05,360
other hand

654
00:28:05,360 --> 00:28:08,080
that's one way or if you're comfortable

655
00:28:08,080 --> 00:28:10,000
you can let the rope slide through both

656
00:28:10,000 --> 00:28:12,240
of your hands

657
00:28:12,240 --> 00:28:14,840
the risk here is however if you go too

658
00:28:14,840 --> 00:28:17,919
fast the rope will go so fast through

659
00:28:17,919 --> 00:28:20,080
both of your hands that it can burn both

660
00:28:20,080 --> 00:28:22,480
of them and then you will probably drop

661
00:28:22,480 --> 00:28:24,960
your climber so simply don't go fast

662
00:28:24,960 --> 00:28:27,279
there is absolutely no point of lowering

663
00:28:27,279 --> 00:28:29,120
a climber fast there is nothing cool

664
00:28:29,120 --> 00:28:31,760
about that it heats your equipment way

665
00:28:31,760 --> 00:28:33,760
more wears down your equipment it's

666
00:28:33,760 --> 00:28:36,159
expensive and go in a controlled manner

667
00:28:36,159 --> 00:28:38,559
and if you're not sure you can always

668
00:28:38,559 --> 00:28:40,720
feed the rope like so and in case your

669
00:28:40,720 --> 00:28:43,679
climber takes a fall

670
00:28:43,679 --> 00:28:46,720
just hold on the brake side of the rope

671
00:28:46,720 --> 00:28:48,559
even if you have number two in your

672
00:28:48,559 --> 00:28:52,159
pants hold it never let go and as soon

673
00:28:52,159 --> 00:28:54,799
as your climber will regain the ground

674
00:28:54,799 --> 00:28:57,440
and unload the rope most of the blank

675
00:28:57,440 --> 00:28:59,360
devices will unlock themselves and

676
00:28:59,360 --> 00:29:01,840
you're ready to continue delaying while

677
00:29:01,840 --> 00:29:04,799
with some devices like click up

678
00:29:04,799 --> 00:29:07,600
once it locks you need a special action

679
00:29:07,600 --> 00:29:10,720
to unlock it to continue blaming so as i

680
00:29:10,720 --> 00:29:12,320
already said it's a good idea to look

681
00:29:12,320 --> 00:29:14,240
into the manual of your blank device to

682
00:29:14,240 --> 00:29:17,360
know all these little nuances that there

683
00:29:17,360 --> 00:29:19,600
might be now if you are teaching

684
00:29:19,600 --> 00:29:22,159
beginners or you are a beginner yourself

685
00:29:22,159 --> 00:29:24,480
practice using belaying device on the

686
00:29:24,480 --> 00:29:27,840
ground without a climber and only once

687
00:29:27,840 --> 00:29:29,600
you're completely comfortable and you're

688
00:29:29,600 --> 00:29:32,000
ready to go and actually play somebody

689
00:29:32,000 --> 00:29:33,919
then make sure to have somebody

690
00:29:33,919 --> 00:29:36,559
experienced backing up holding on the

691
00:29:36,559 --> 00:29:39,120
break side of the rope and giving you

692
00:29:39,120 --> 00:29:42,000
guidance assistance on your technique

693
00:29:42,000 --> 00:29:44,960
this is really important i actually once

694
00:29:44,960 --> 00:29:47,279
saved a climber when inexperienced

695
00:29:47,279 --> 00:29:49,919
belayer was using a grigri i was backing

696
00:29:49,919 --> 00:29:51,520
up the rope

697
00:29:51,520 --> 00:29:53,760
and actually i was the one who caught

698
00:29:53,760 --> 00:29:55,840
the fall and the full story if you're

699
00:29:55,840 --> 00:29:58,720
interested is in this video about grigri

700
00:29:58,720 --> 00:30:00,640
and of course don't take this video as a

701
00:30:00,640 --> 00:30:02,559
complete guide into delaying there is

702
00:30:02,559 --> 00:30:04,880
way more things you need to know from

703
00:30:04,880 --> 00:30:07,919
proper slack management to soft catches

704
00:30:07,919 --> 00:30:10,080
to belayer movement to good

705
00:30:10,080 --> 00:30:12,240
communication with your climber and all

706
00:30:12,240 --> 00:30:14,559
of that is coming in the future episodes

707
00:30:14,559 --> 00:30:17,840
of belay master class

708
00:30:18,000 --> 00:30:19,520
that's a lot of effort to make these

709
00:30:19,520 --> 00:30:22,240
videos to be honest and this video was

710
00:30:22,240 --> 00:30:24,480
brought to you by mamut

711
00:30:24,480 --> 00:30:26,960
and by all the people who are supporting

712
00:30:26,960 --> 00:30:30,480
me by visiting my website so huge thank

713
00:30:30,480 --> 00:30:33,600
you for everyone and see you in the next

714
00:30:33,600 --> 00:30:36,600
episode