0:00:03.280,0:00:04.607
Belaying devices.

0:00:04.607,0:00:07.284
There are so many different[br]belaying devices

0:00:07.284,0:00:11.280
nowadays on the market and in my hands.

0:00:11.280,0:00:13.440
And after this video you will be able

0:00:13.440,0:00:14.960
to pick any of them.

0:00:14.960,0:00:16.640
Not from my hands.

0:00:16.640,0:00:19.756
And you will know how it works [br]and how to use it.

0:00:19.756,0:00:23.661
So first of all, a belaying device[br]is simply a mechanism

0:00:23.661,0:00:24.975
which allows to control

0:00:24.975,0:00:26.960
the friction between your hand

0:00:26.960,0:00:28.320
and the climber.

0:00:28.320,0:00:29.519
Alright.

0:00:29.519,0:00:33.370
So here I hang and here I have almost

0:00:33.370,0:00:38.100
60 kilograms of force pulling [br]on this strand of the rope.

0:00:38.100,0:00:40.719
However for me to hold that

0:00:40.719,0:00:45.760
I'm only using about 6 to 7 [br]kilograms of force

0:00:45.760,0:00:47.440
on the brake side of the rope.

0:00:47.440,0:00:50.480
However if I would start raising

0:00:50.480,0:00:54.079
my brake hand up

0:00:54.079,0:00:56.670
the force needed to hold that

0:00:56.670,0:01:00.539
goes to 9 kilograms of force...

0:01:00.539,0:01:02.640
10...

0:01:02.640,0:01:05.120
12...

0:01:07.280,0:01:10.280
15...

0:01:17.040,0:01:21.040
So my max was around 25 kilograms of force

0:01:21.040,0:01:23.840
with two hands in this position.

0:01:23.840,0:01:27.094
That means that in this position [br]at this angle

0:01:27.094,0:01:30.140
I can not even hold my own weight[br]with two hands.

0:01:30.140,0:01:32.887
There is no even talking about one hand.

0:01:32.887,0:01:35.352
So now let's see how much[br]assistance I will get

0:01:35.352,0:01:39.110
if my rope strands are completely [br]parallel to each other.

0:01:39.110,0:01:42.059
So I will start pulling up

0:01:42.059,0:01:46.439
as hard as i can.

0:01:56.079,0:01:58.399
And so the answer is almost nothing.

0:01:58.399,0:01:59.943
Now to explain how that works

0:01:59.943,0:02:02.608
since there is so many [br]different belaying devices

0:02:02.608,0:02:05.972
I'm gonna group all of them [br]into different categories.

0:02:05.972,0:02:08.500
First one is tubular style devices.

0:02:08.500,0:02:11.590
That many mistakenly call them reverso.

0:02:11.590,0:02:14.440
Which is only this device - [br]Petzl Reverso.

0:02:14.440,0:02:18.480
Or ATC which is this Black Diamond ATC.

0:02:18.480,0:02:21.459
While Mammut calls this [br]Alpine Belaying Device. Simple.

0:02:21.459,0:02:25.450
So with tubes the more[br]I move my brake hand down

0:02:25.450,0:02:30.011
the more it squeezes the rope between [br]the carabiner and belaying device.

0:02:30.011,0:02:34.009
And also tubes have [br]a little groove in front of them.

0:02:34.009,0:02:37.089
Which even further pinches on the rope.

0:02:37.089,0:02:40.574
Plus as I pull down on the rope[br]it tilts the device

0:02:40.574,0:02:43.840
which creates extra angles [br]and extra friction.

0:02:43.840,0:02:46.380
So as we saw in my previous experiment

0:02:46.380,0:02:50.959
if my hand is at the [br]level of the belaying device or higher

0:02:50.959,0:02:53.120
the device creates very little friction.

0:02:53.120,0:02:55.257
So if the climber would fall

0:02:55.257,0:02:58.800
while my hand is [br]in this position or higher

0:02:58.800,0:03:01.365
there is a high chance [br]that my hand would simply

0:03:01.365,0:03:04.080
get sucked into the belaying device.

0:03:04.959,0:03:08.680
I got my hand pinched...

0:03:19.280,0:03:21.290
And then maybe i will hurt my hand

0:03:21.290,0:03:23.920
And let go off the rope.

0:03:23.920,0:03:25.920
So if you want to see how my hand is

0:03:25.920,0:03:27.750
getting sucked into belaying device

0:03:27.750,0:03:29.800
I already made a video about that.

0:03:29.800,0:03:32.908
Also worth mentioning is that [br]rope thickness or diameter

0:03:32.908,0:03:35.175
has a huge effect on how easily

0:03:35.175,0:03:37.610
the rope will go through belaying device.

0:03:37.610,0:03:39.519
And every belaying device has a

0:03:39.519,0:03:42.239
recommended range of rope thicknesses

0:03:42.239,0:03:44.580
which you can find [br]somewhere in the manuals

0:03:44.580,0:03:46.600
or sometimes on the device itself.

0:03:46.600,0:03:49.120
And this brings us to advantages

0:03:49.120,0:03:50.993
of tubular style devices.

0:03:50.993,0:03:55.193
First of all they work better with [br]wider range of rope diameters.

0:03:55.193,0:03:58.475
All the way from super thick gym ropes

0:03:58.475,0:04:01.000
to ultra skinny twin ropes.

0:04:01.000,0:04:03.509
On contrast if you would take a GriGri

0:04:03.509,0:04:06.058
it says that it's optimized to work

0:04:06.058,0:04:09.867
from 8.9 to 10.5 millimeters ropes.

0:04:09.867,0:04:11.680
But from my experience

0:04:11.680,0:04:14.319
anything from 10 millimeters and above

0:04:14.319,0:04:16.120
doesn't work that well anymore.

0:04:16.120,0:04:19.991
Yeah, there is this older GriGri[br]which works better with thicker ropes.

0:04:19.991,0:04:22.800
But that one doesn't work well [br]with thin ropes.

0:04:22.800,0:04:25.689
Next, tubes are super lightweight.

0:04:25.689,0:04:27.840
And they allow you to belay with two ropes

0:04:27.840,0:04:29.599
either double ropes or twin ropes.

0:04:29.599,0:04:31.981
And if you don't know[br]what's a double or twin rope

0:04:31.981,0:04:35.000
you should watch[br]my master class on the ropes.

0:04:35.000,0:04:37.562
Also with tubes you can make a soft catch

0:04:37.562,0:04:39.170
without moving yourself.

0:04:39.170,0:04:42.720
By allowing the rope [br]to slip through the device.

0:04:42.720,0:04:46.720
And in general tubes don't catch as hard

0:04:46.720,0:04:49.239
because there is always [br]a little bit of slippage

0:04:49.239,0:04:51.840
which reduces the peak forces.

0:04:51.840,0:04:54.240
Which might be very beneficial[br]for trad climbers.

0:04:54.240,0:04:56.560
Since it reduces the chance

0:04:56.560,0:04:59.080
that the pieces of the gear will fall out.

0:04:59.080,0:05:02.409
And finally tubes have [br]this loop at the top.

0:05:02.409,0:05:05.515
And that allows you [br]to set this device in a guide mode

0:05:05.515,0:05:08.693
in which you can even belay [br]two following climbers

0:05:08.693,0:05:13.440
coming up on top rope simultaneously

0:05:13.440,0:05:16.231
simon... simultaneously.

0:05:16.231,0:05:18.364
and all of that are the reasons

0:05:18.364,0:05:21.370
why tubes are still very commonly used

0:05:21.370,0:05:24.438
in traditional or alpine [br]or multi-pitch scenarios.

0:05:24.438,0:05:27.680
However none of that is really useful

0:05:27.680,0:05:30.258
if you're just doing [br]single pitch sport climbing.

0:05:30.258,0:05:32.399
And the biggest disadvantage of tubes

0:05:32.399,0:05:34.300
is of course that they don't lock

0:05:34.300,0:05:37.600
meaning if you would let go the rope.

0:05:37.600,0:05:39.262
Which by the way brings us

0:05:39.262,0:05:41.000
to the main rule of belaying.

0:05:41.000,0:05:43.520
If you are in need of number two

0:05:43.520,0:05:46.479
and you have a choice to poop your pants

0:05:46.479,0:05:50.400
or to let go the brake side of the rope -

0:05:50.400,0:05:52.059
you poop your pants!

0:05:52.059,0:05:55.889
Meaning in no circumstances [br]you're allowed to lose control

0:05:55.889,0:05:57.440
of the brake side of the rope.

0:05:57.440,0:05:59.600
And that's by the way also equally true

0:05:59.600,0:06:03.115
for assisted building devices [br]but we are gonna talk next.

0:06:03.115,0:06:06.530
So assisted devices [br]have an ability to lock

0:06:06.530,0:06:08.485
in case the climber falls.

0:06:08.485,0:06:11.445
Which obviously adds a lot of safety.

0:06:11.445,0:06:14.804
For example if you would [br]knock a rock while you're climbing

0:06:14.804,0:06:19.039
and that rock would [br]fall on your belayer's head...

0:06:19.039,0:06:20.801
And that's why we wear a helmet!

0:06:20.801,0:06:24.235
So first of all your belayer would [br]really like to have a helmet.

0:06:24.235,0:06:27.159
But you as a climber [br]would really love that

0:06:27.159,0:06:30.369
there would be one of these [br]assisted devices down there.

0:06:30.369,0:06:33.960
And in fact my own skin[br]was once saved by this guy.

0:06:33.960,0:06:35.564
When I did a little fall

0:06:35.564,0:06:37.265
and my belayer did not notice

0:06:37.265,0:06:39.573
that there was a rock next to her leg.

0:06:39.573,0:06:41.876
And while she was flying forward,

0:06:41.876,0:06:44.907
her leg got stuck, and she spun around,

0:06:44.907,0:06:46.784
and hit her back to the wall.

0:06:46.784,0:06:49.459
And let both of the hands go.

0:06:49.459,0:06:54.400
So this guy is basically a reason why [br]I'm still here.

0:06:54.400,0:06:56.180
And making these videos.

0:06:56.180,0:06:59.280
Now super important that number two rule

0:06:59.280,0:07:01.355
is also applicable for these guys.

0:07:01.355,0:07:04.011
After all they are called assisted

0:07:04.011,0:07:07.212
so don't treat them as fully automatic.

0:07:07.212,0:07:10.880
Because there are cases [br]where they will not lock.

0:07:10.880,0:07:13.759
Apart from safety this locking is also

0:07:13.759,0:07:15.849
super useful in long belays

0:07:15.849,0:07:18.527
If your climber is hanging [br]on the rope a lot

0:07:18.527,0:07:20.520
and projecting some hard moves.

0:07:20.520,0:07:22.559
So if we compare this to the tube

0:07:22.559,0:07:26.720
even in the most mechanically [br]advantaged position

0:07:26.720,0:07:29.280
you will still need to hold on the rope.

0:07:29.280,0:07:32.733
And in very long belays [br]this will get tiring.

0:07:32.733,0:07:35.214
While with assisted devices [br]it's pretty chill.

0:07:35.214,0:07:37.780
You are literally just [br]sitting in your harness.

0:07:37.780,0:07:42.880
OK, so the first group of [br]assisted belaying devices

0:07:42.880,0:07:45.073
is called assisted tubers.

0:07:45.073,0:07:48.412
That's because they look like tubes

0:07:48.412,0:07:51.403
and they work similarly to regular tubes

0:07:51.403,0:07:52.960
where we squeeze the rope

0:07:52.960,0:07:55.759
between the carabiner and the device.

0:07:55.759,0:07:57.682
Except that they have a shape

0:07:57.682,0:08:00.440
that shifts the carabiner in position

0:08:00.440,0:08:03.404
where it squeezes on the rope so hard

0:08:03.404,0:08:05.481
that it completely locks it off.

0:08:05.481,0:08:08.604
A little disadvantage of assisted tubes

0:08:08.604,0:08:11.320
is that once in locked position

0:08:11.320,0:08:14.160
you cannot quickly [br]feed slack to the climber.

0:08:14.160,0:08:17.403
You need a special action [br]to unlock the device

0:08:17.403,0:08:19.516
before you can feed the rope

0:08:19.516,0:08:21.425
For example with Click Up

0:08:21.425,0:08:23.225
it even clicks

0:08:23.225,0:08:25.219
and now I cannot do anything.

0:08:25.219,0:08:27.909
I literally need to unclick it.

0:08:27.909,0:08:29.531
And now I can continue belaying.

0:08:29.531,0:08:31.340
Now one really important thing

0:08:31.340,0:08:33.708
that not many know about assisted tubers

0:08:33.708,0:08:36.423
That they suffer from the same problem

0:08:36.423,0:08:38.334
as regular tubes

0:08:38.334,0:08:42.320
meaning that [br]if your hand is in up position

0:08:42.320,0:08:44.430
the device will not lock.

0:08:44.430,0:08:45.987
As you can see it's not locking

0:08:45.987,0:08:48.720
And if the climber would take a fall

0:08:48.720,0:08:51.040
the rope would just slide from my hand

0:08:51.040,0:08:54.160
and burn it. Oh, it's already burning.

0:08:54.160,0:08:56.540
However unlike regular tubes

0:08:56.540,0:08:58.240
Where you can get your hands sucked

0:08:58.240,0:08:59.963
even at very big angles

0:08:59.963,0:09:01.661
most assisted tubers

0:09:01.661,0:09:03.930
will only fail at the angles

0:09:03.930,0:09:06.272
that are very extremely high up.

0:09:06.272,0:09:08.519
And some actually don't fail at all.

0:09:08.519,0:09:10.879
I'm actually gonna make a separate video

0:09:10.879,0:09:12.699
where I was experimenting

0:09:12.699,0:09:15.830
at which angles which devices lock.

0:09:15.830,0:09:18.399
So stay tuned for that I can't put

0:09:18.399,0:09:20.399
everything into one video because i need

0:09:20.399,0:09:23.040
you to subscribe

0:09:23.040,0:09:25.120
but independently of which belaying

0:09:25.120,0:09:27.519
device you're using just develop a habit

0:09:27.519,0:09:30.160
of keeping your bray hand down also good

0:09:30.160,0:09:32.240
to know for people who climb with two

0:09:32.240,0:09:34.800
ropes is that there are assisted tubers

0:09:34.800,0:09:36.959
that work with two ropes in case you go

0:09:36.959,0:09:38.880
on a multi-pitch and you want extra

0:09:38.880,0:09:41.839
safety you have some options all right

0:09:41.839,0:09:44.320
let's move on to cam assisted devices

0:09:44.320,0:09:46.720
i'm sure everybody knows grigri but

0:09:46.720,0:09:49.360
there are more devices like trango virgo

0:09:49.360,0:09:51.839
and birdie and others and the way they

0:09:51.839,0:09:53.519
work is that they have a camming

0:09:53.519,0:09:55.839
mechanism inside which pinches on the

0:09:55.839,0:09:58.959
rope now in the case of grigri the cam

0:09:58.959,0:10:01.680
is spring-loaded meaning that as soon as

0:10:01.680,0:10:03.760
there is no more load on the climber's

0:10:03.760,0:10:06.399
end of the rope the cam will disengage

0:10:06.399,0:10:09.200
and you can delay normally while in the

0:10:09.200,0:10:11.760
case of virgo it doesn't have a spring

0:10:11.760,0:10:14.480
and you need to position the device in a

0:10:14.480,0:10:15.920
certain way

0:10:15.920,0:10:19.040
to be able to feed the slag all right

0:10:19.040,0:10:21.519
back to grigri if you press on grigri

0:10:21.519,0:10:25.200
scam but you ignore the rule number two

0:10:25.200,0:10:26.880
and you don't hold

0:10:26.880,0:10:29.279
the break side of the rope this can

0:10:29.279,0:10:32.279
happen

0:10:37.920,0:10:40.880
also if you ignore rule number two

0:10:40.880,0:10:42.800
and your grigri gets trapped in the

0:10:42.800,0:10:43.680
first

0:10:43.680,0:10:45.200
piece of gear

0:10:45.200,0:10:47.839
this can happen

0:10:51.360,0:10:53.279
many of you asked

0:10:53.279,0:10:55.680
if this problem of trapping in the first

0:10:55.680,0:10:59.360
bolt where it disengages the cam is also

0:10:59.360,0:11:02.880
applicable for assisted tubers so with

0:11:02.880,0:11:05.680
most assisted devices the answer is

0:11:05.680,0:11:07.120
unlikely

0:11:07.120,0:11:09.920
since there is no cam that i could press

0:11:09.920,0:11:12.560
to disengage this locking

0:11:12.560,0:11:16.079
only if i would press on this end

0:11:16.079,0:11:18.800
it kind of slips a bit but still

0:11:18.800,0:11:21.600
stays locked

0:11:25.920,0:11:26.959
this

0:11:26.959,0:11:29.120
click

0:11:29.120,0:11:31.120
doesn't even lock if i don't hold the

0:11:31.120,0:11:33.040
rope

0:11:33.040,0:11:37.760
amazing number two rule all the rope

0:11:38.959,0:11:40.480
yeah

0:11:40.480,0:11:44.560
there's no way i can unlock this

0:11:44.560,0:11:47.440
in this manner

0:11:47.680,0:11:50.399
so no assisted tubers don't have this

0:11:50.399,0:11:53.040
risk now this is a little future me

0:11:53.040,0:11:55.440
after i was editing this part that you

0:11:55.440,0:11:58.480
just seen and i saw this i realized that

0:11:58.480,0:12:01.760
i was using a wrong carabiner turns out

0:12:01.760,0:12:04.480
click ups need their own specific

0:12:04.480,0:12:06.639
carabiners and that's a reason why you

0:12:06.639,0:12:09.040
should read the manual so

0:12:09.040,0:12:11.760
that's the carabiner you should use for

0:12:11.760,0:12:15.440
a click up let's see if it locks

0:12:16.399,0:12:19.120
no difference

0:12:19.760,0:12:22.240
so number two rule

0:12:22.240,0:12:24.880
and read the manual because some of the

0:12:24.880,0:12:27.040
assisted delaying devices require you a

0:12:27.040,0:12:29.279
specific belaying carabiner i don't know

0:12:29.279,0:12:31.440
if it's just marketing or the shape of

0:12:31.440,0:12:34.160
the carabiner is slightly different just

0:12:34.160,0:12:36.880
use what the manufacturers recommend and

0:12:36.880,0:12:39.519
finally there is this guy it's a rivo

0:12:39.519,0:12:41.120
from wild country

0:12:41.120,0:12:44.240
it's an inertia based mechanism which

0:12:44.240,0:12:46.560
will lock once the climber starts

0:12:46.560,0:12:48.800
falling faster than four meters per

0:12:48.800,0:12:51.360
second so if i pull slowly it doesn't

0:12:51.360,0:12:54.880
lock i need to pull really fast in order

0:12:54.880,0:12:56.320
for it to lock

0:12:56.320,0:12:58.320
so my goal of this video is not to

0:12:58.320,0:13:00.480
compare all of the delaying devices on

0:13:00.480,0:13:02.639
the market and tell you which one to buy

0:13:02.639,0:13:05.760
sorry for that every device have its own

0:13:05.760,0:13:09.200
pros and cons haters and lovers full

0:13:09.200,0:13:11.279
internet of that however if you would

0:13:11.279,0:13:13.760
want such comparison let me know in the

0:13:13.760,0:13:15.519
comments and maybe i will make a

0:13:15.519,0:13:18.320
separate video on that okay now i have a

0:13:18.320,0:13:20.480
tip for you that will make your life a

0:13:20.480,0:13:22.720
little bit easier and maybe will even

0:13:22.720,0:13:25.040
save your ass on a multi-pitch one day

0:13:25.040,0:13:26.160
humans

0:13:26.160,0:13:29.279
we have two hands normally and handling

0:13:29.279,0:13:32.399
more than two objects in two hands

0:13:32.399,0:13:34.560
is not ideal what i often see that

0:13:34.560,0:13:36.240
people take their playing device their

0:13:36.240,0:13:38.800
carabiner the rope that's already three

0:13:38.800,0:13:40.800
objects by the way and they try to

0:13:40.800,0:13:42.639
connect everything

0:13:42.639,0:13:44.959
in space

0:13:44.959,0:13:48.440
like so

0:13:49.440,0:13:52.320
ready to delay so doing this will

0:13:52.320,0:13:54.160
greatly increase the chance that one day

0:13:54.160,0:13:55.519
you will drop something you will be

0:13:55.519,0:13:57.279
trying to connect something and then

0:13:57.279,0:13:59.360
suddenly whoops

0:13:59.360,0:14:01.440
your billing device flies down if you're

0:14:01.440,0:14:03.040
not on a multi-pitch if you're standing

0:14:03.040,0:14:05.279
on the ground that's not a big deal

0:14:05.279,0:14:07.680
however if you drop your billing device

0:14:07.680,0:14:09.199
on a multi-pitch

0:14:09.199,0:14:11.440
you are in big trouble so this is what

0:14:11.440,0:14:13.760
you do to avoid that normally your blade

0:14:13.760,0:14:15.920
device will live with your carabiner

0:14:15.920,0:14:17.760
somewhere on the harness

0:14:17.760,0:14:20.320
so step one you take

0:14:20.320,0:14:23.360
both of them together as one unit so i'm

0:14:23.360,0:14:25.360
carrying only one unit and you

0:14:25.360,0:14:27.440
immediately connect it to the laying

0:14:27.440,0:14:28.800
loop

0:14:28.800,0:14:31.279
so you cannot drop anything right now

0:14:31.279,0:14:33.600
everything is safe step two you take a

0:14:33.600,0:14:36.000
bite of rope and you insert into your

0:14:36.000,0:14:37.600
blank device

0:14:37.600,0:14:39.760
keep in mind of the orientation of the

0:14:39.760,0:14:42.320
rope which end has to go to the climber

0:14:42.320,0:14:44.800
which end is your break hand if you're

0:14:44.800,0:14:48.079
not sure every blank device has an image

0:14:48.079,0:14:50.560
on the side of it which will remind you

0:14:50.560,0:14:52.320
that and next

0:14:52.320,0:14:55.040
open your carabiner and hook your rope

0:14:55.040,0:14:56.399
together

0:14:56.399,0:14:58.480
with the belaying device

0:14:58.480,0:15:01.440
so at no point there was a chance of for

0:15:01.440,0:15:03.440
me to drop anything and once you're done

0:15:03.440,0:15:05.600
playing you simply reverse the process

0:15:05.600,0:15:08.240
where you open the carabiner you unhook

0:15:08.240,0:15:10.240
the rope but you hook the belaying

0:15:10.240,0:15:12.480
device and then you simply can just pull

0:15:12.480,0:15:14.240
out the rope and your belaying device

0:15:14.240,0:15:16.480
stays on your harness with the carabiner

0:15:16.480,0:15:18.000
if you want to put it somewhere else you

0:15:18.000,0:15:19.920
put it somewhere else and the same works

0:15:19.920,0:15:22.800
with assisted tubers so step one connect

0:15:22.800,0:15:23.920
your

0:15:23.920,0:15:26.639
blank device to your harness take a bite

0:15:26.639,0:15:29.279
of rope put that bite of rope into the

0:15:29.279,0:15:31.519
laying device

0:15:31.519,0:15:34.240
open the carabiner and hook the rope and

0:15:34.240,0:15:36.399
playing device together

0:15:36.399,0:15:38.720
now in case of the grigri it's slightly

0:15:38.720,0:15:42.000
different so as always step one clip

0:15:42.000,0:15:44.160
your blank device to your belay loop so

0:15:44.160,0:15:46.079
you cannot drop anything now if you're

0:15:46.079,0:15:48.000
not on a multi-pitch and dropping your

0:15:48.000,0:15:50.000
grigri is not a big deal you simply take

0:15:50.000,0:15:53.199
off your grigri open it in this cool way

0:15:53.199,0:15:56.720
insert the rope and flip it back simple

0:15:56.720,0:15:59.759
now if you are on a multi-pitch

0:15:59.759,0:16:02.000
there is a technique so this is what you

0:16:02.000,0:16:05.680
do you open your carabiner

0:16:05.680,0:16:08.399
and hook only half of the degree

0:16:08.399,0:16:10.800
together then you can open the grigri

0:16:10.800,0:16:12.880
and it's connected to your carabiner you

0:16:12.880,0:16:15.839
cannot drop it you insert the rope you

0:16:15.839,0:16:17.360
close it

0:16:17.360,0:16:19.600
and then you open your carabiner again

0:16:19.600,0:16:21.759
and hook the grigri back

0:16:21.759,0:16:24.000
so this is as safe as you can do with

0:16:24.000,0:16:26.800
the grigri on a multi page and obviously

0:16:26.800,0:16:28.480
once you're done it's just simply

0:16:28.480,0:16:31.759
reversing the process of

0:16:31.759,0:16:34.079
doing

0:16:34.839,0:16:37.519
this and doing that

0:16:37.519,0:16:39.920
okay so i hope that by now i gave you

0:16:39.920,0:16:42.639
enough examples how not to use belaying

0:16:42.639,0:16:45.199
devices and now i'm gonna show you

0:16:45.199,0:16:48.079
proper techniques the good part is that

0:16:48.079,0:16:50.800
no matter what blank device you use good

0:16:50.800,0:16:53.040
belaying techniques don't change there

0:16:53.040,0:16:54.560
are slight differences that i'm gonna

0:16:54.560,0:16:57.440
mention but for majority it's the same

0:16:57.440,0:16:58.320
all right

0:16:58.320,0:17:01.120
so i hope that by now number two rule is

0:17:01.120,0:17:03.920
strongly embedded into you however if

0:17:03.920,0:17:06.079
for some reason you really need to go

0:17:06.079,0:17:09.520
hands-free you can tie a backup knot

0:17:09.520,0:17:12.400
at your brake and like so

0:17:12.400,0:17:14.640
and this is totally fine

0:17:14.640,0:17:16.799
in case something happens and the rope

0:17:16.799,0:17:18.400
would slip all the way

0:17:18.400,0:17:20.400
the grigri will lock

0:17:20.400,0:17:22.240
however in the case of tube it's

0:17:22.240,0:17:24.079
slightly different if you would just

0:17:24.079,0:17:25.120
simply

0:17:25.120,0:17:27.039
tie a knot here

0:17:27.039,0:17:29.120
and the climber would fall there is a

0:17:29.120,0:17:31.440
chance that this knot will get

0:17:31.440,0:17:33.840
jammed in your blank device so hard that

0:17:33.840,0:17:37.039
you will have trouble to

0:17:37.039,0:17:39.120
unjam it let's use a slightly different

0:17:39.120,0:17:41.200
carabiner so it's easier for you to see

0:17:41.200,0:17:43.039
what's happening so

0:17:43.039,0:17:45.360
in the case of tube you take a bite of

0:17:45.360,0:17:47.600
rope and then you take another bite of

0:17:47.600,0:17:50.559
rope and put through the first one

0:17:50.559,0:17:52.640
and you make it tight

0:17:52.640,0:17:54.240
and make sure that this loop is long

0:17:54.240,0:17:55.840
enough

0:17:55.840,0:17:56.960
like so

0:17:56.960,0:18:00.000
this will hold but this is not enough to

0:18:00.000,0:18:01.039
make it

0:18:01.039,0:18:03.919
extra safe you tie in

0:18:03.919,0:18:06.480
back up knot here so now i can go

0:18:06.480,0:18:08.720
hands-free and in case my climber takes

0:18:08.720,0:18:11.360
a fall this will hold him and if i want

0:18:11.360,0:18:13.200
to release all of that

0:18:13.200,0:18:15.840
hold the brake side of the rope

0:18:15.840,0:18:17.919
and tie the top

0:18:17.919,0:18:19.200
back up knot

0:18:19.200,0:18:22.799
and start pulling the rope

0:18:22.799,0:18:25.440
until you have a little loop left

0:18:25.440,0:18:27.440
at this point inform your climber that

0:18:27.440,0:18:28.400
he might

0:18:28.400,0:18:30.160
feel a little bump

0:18:30.160,0:18:31.280
and tug

0:18:31.280,0:18:32.480
fast

0:18:32.480,0:18:34.400
like so if you do this correctly your

0:18:34.400,0:18:36.640
climber will not go down at all now if

0:18:36.640,0:18:40.559
you're not familiar with slip slap slap

0:18:40.559,0:18:41.440
this

0:18:41.440,0:18:42.799
technique

0:18:42.799,0:18:45.200
good you can safely ignore my next

0:18:45.200,0:18:47.760
sentence however if you're using that

0:18:47.760,0:18:50.320
technique i would strongly advise you to

0:18:50.320,0:18:52.720
reconsider because in the case of the

0:18:52.720,0:18:54.880
fall your hand might get sucked into the

0:18:54.880,0:18:57.360
bellying device faster than you might

0:18:57.360,0:18:59.600
think so as a good rule of thumb keep

0:18:59.600,0:19:02.799
your break hand always down and do any

0:19:02.799,0:19:06.880
hand swapping or sliding there so now a

0:19:06.880,0:19:08.640
little disclaimer i'm gonna show you

0:19:08.640,0:19:10.640
three different techniques of taking

0:19:10.640,0:19:13.440
slack and depending on where you are on

0:19:13.440,0:19:16.400
the planet some of them might be not

0:19:16.400,0:19:19.200
considered as acceptable so stick with

0:19:19.200,0:19:21.520
me i'm gonna explain because i went

0:19:21.520,0:19:23.840
really deep in this rabbit hole so all

0:19:23.840,0:19:25.840
the techniques start the same your left

0:19:25.840,0:19:28.080
hand reaches up and pulls down on the

0:19:28.080,0:19:30.320
rope while at the same time your break

0:19:30.320,0:19:33.280
hand pushes forward and locks it down

0:19:33.280,0:19:35.360
and now at this point you need to bring

0:19:35.360,0:19:36.799
your right hand

0:19:36.799,0:19:38.960
up the rope and there are three

0:19:38.960,0:19:41.600
different ways to do so the first one

0:19:41.600,0:19:43.440
it's more popular in europe and it's

0:19:43.440,0:19:46.640
called hand over hand or v to the knee

0:19:46.640,0:19:50.320
so you simply take your left hand and go

0:19:50.320,0:19:51.360
over

0:19:51.360,0:19:53.760
your right hand and then right hand goes

0:19:53.760,0:19:55.360
over your left hand that's why it's

0:19:55.360,0:19:58.799
called hand over hand so you take

0:19:58.799,0:20:01.760
hand over hand you take

0:20:01.760,0:20:04.880
hand over hand so i find myself using

0:20:04.880,0:20:06.799
this technique when the climber wants me

0:20:06.799,0:20:09.360
to take really hard as he's moving up

0:20:09.360,0:20:12.080
the rope because you're always pulling

0:20:12.080,0:20:15.039
down on the rope you can

0:20:15.039,0:20:17.919
it kind of feels like climbing up the

0:20:17.919,0:20:19.039
rope

0:20:19.039,0:20:21.840
very comfortable

0:20:22.559,0:20:24.400
so the problem with this technique is

0:20:24.400,0:20:26.559
that when people get really good and can

0:20:26.559,0:20:29.200
do it really fast

0:20:29.200,0:20:32.320
they start letting go the brig and

0:20:32.320,0:20:34.799
before the left hand goes into the

0:20:34.799,0:20:37.760
locking position so we do this we take

0:20:37.760,0:20:40.400
this let go already

0:20:40.400,0:20:43.039
and then go into locking position if the

0:20:43.039,0:20:45.679
climber would fall in the moment where

0:20:45.679,0:20:48.960
you let go this and you don't lock the

0:20:48.960,0:20:51.760
hand down you probably know what would

0:20:51.760,0:20:54.240
happen so obviously a simple solution

0:20:54.240,0:20:55.039
lock

0:20:55.039,0:20:57.520
and then in the locking position do any

0:20:57.520,0:20:59.520
hand swapping and another thing you need

0:20:59.520,0:21:01.919
to be aware of that sometimes if the

0:21:01.919,0:21:04.080
climber drops a bunch of slack your

0:21:04.080,0:21:06.400
blank device falls down and here you

0:21:06.400,0:21:09.440
need to be careful to not take your left

0:21:09.440,0:21:12.559
hand over the belaying device otherwise

0:21:12.559,0:21:15.679
if you do so and the climber falls your

0:21:15.679,0:21:16.480
hand

0:21:16.480,0:21:19.200
gets into this awkward position so

0:21:19.200,0:21:21.280
instead you reach under your blank

0:21:21.280,0:21:23.760
device and you grab the rope and now if

0:21:23.760,0:21:26.080
the climber would fall everything would

0:21:26.080,0:21:28.080
be fine all right next technique is

0:21:28.080,0:21:30.480
called p-bus which is more commonly used

0:21:30.480,0:21:33.840
in america which means pull break so

0:21:33.840,0:21:36.480
basically the same stuff as before

0:21:36.480,0:21:40.080
but now instead of taking over the hand

0:21:40.080,0:21:41.919
you take under

0:21:41.919,0:21:46.480
and slide so pull brake under slide

0:21:46.480,0:21:47.919
pull brake

0:21:47.919,0:21:50.480
under slide so the benefit of this

0:21:50.480,0:21:52.559
technique is your strong hand never

0:21:52.559,0:21:54.960
leaves the rope a little drawback of

0:21:54.960,0:21:57.360
this technique is when you have weight

0:21:57.360,0:21:59.280
on the rope and you're trying to take

0:21:59.280,0:22:00.240
hard

0:22:00.240,0:22:02.880
now sliding up this hand

0:22:02.880,0:22:06.400
is not as comfortable as in

0:22:06.400,0:22:09.520
hand over hand technique

0:22:09.520,0:22:12.000
so at some point as you will be

0:22:12.000,0:22:14.799
practicing your p-bus technique you will

0:22:14.799,0:22:17.520
realize that you don't actually need to

0:22:17.520,0:22:19.919
bring your left hand down there in order

0:22:19.919,0:22:23.120
to bring your big hand up you can simply

0:22:23.120,0:22:24.799
slide it up

0:22:24.799,0:22:27.039
and this is a third technique which is

0:22:27.039,0:22:29.520
called a tunnel technique and since your

0:22:29.520,0:22:32.320
left hand never leaves this rope

0:22:32.320,0:22:34.080
it's the most efficient technique

0:22:34.080,0:22:36.320
because you can always switch between

0:22:36.320,0:22:39.600
taking slack and giving slack instantly

0:22:39.600,0:22:42.559
so no matter in which moment of taking

0:22:42.559,0:22:45.360
slack i am i can always give slack

0:22:45.360,0:22:47.600
and contrary any other technique where

0:22:47.600,0:22:49.600
my left hand leaves

0:22:49.600,0:22:52.240
now it needs to go back in order for me

0:22:52.240,0:22:55.039
to give slack so it's an extra action

0:22:55.039,0:22:57.280
also tunnel technique is the best for

0:22:57.280,0:23:00.000
taking small amounts of slack

0:23:00.000,0:23:01.919
if i would try to take a small amount of

0:23:01.919,0:23:04.240
slack continuously with any other

0:23:04.240,0:23:06.559
technique it's

0:23:06.559,0:23:08.480
a lot of hand

0:23:08.480,0:23:09.840
movements

0:23:09.840,0:23:11.919
while the tunnel technique it's very

0:23:11.919,0:23:13.440
relaxed

0:23:13.440,0:23:15.600
and that's why it's the most efficient

0:23:15.600,0:23:18.080
technique however you might know or

0:23:18.080,0:23:20.159
maybe you don't this technique is

0:23:20.159,0:23:23.120
actually not considered acceptable in

0:23:23.120,0:23:25.120
some parts of the planet

0:23:25.120,0:23:27.760
with the argument that during the moment

0:23:27.760,0:23:30.080
where you slide the hand up

0:23:30.080,0:23:32.320
you don't have a firm grip on the brake

0:23:32.320,0:23:34.799
hand and during the fall maybe you will

0:23:34.799,0:23:37.280
not be able to catch the fall to which

0:23:37.280,0:23:39.600
here is my arguments

0:23:39.600,0:23:42.320
first of all if you use any assisted

0:23:42.320,0:23:45.600
belaying device you don't even need any

0:23:45.600,0:23:47.840
hard grip on the brake side of the rope

0:23:47.840,0:23:52.159
any light tug will make the device lock

0:23:52.159,0:23:54.799
so this is not an issue immediately now

0:23:54.799,0:23:57.200
if you are using a tube i actually went

0:23:57.200,0:23:59.440
out and did an experiment on this where

0:23:59.440,0:24:01.760
i asked inexperienced belayers to keep

0:24:01.760,0:24:04.640
moving the hand up and down while i was

0:24:04.640,0:24:07.120
distracting them and the climber was

0:24:07.120,0:24:10.159
taking unexpected falls for them

0:24:10.159,0:24:12.400
so stay tuned for that it's gonna be

0:24:12.400,0:24:14.159
really crazy and really interesting

0:24:14.159,0:24:16.720
episode but in general when sliding the

0:24:16.720,0:24:19.200
hand up don't make a big tunnel i don't

0:24:19.200,0:24:20.640
like that this technique is actually

0:24:20.640,0:24:22.400
called a tunnel method

0:24:22.400,0:24:25.200
it shouldn't be a tunnel you're barely

0:24:25.200,0:24:27.840
opening the hand just barely enough for

0:24:27.840,0:24:30.320
it to slide up the rope and if you are a

0:24:30.320,0:24:32.559
beginner it's really good idea to start

0:24:32.559,0:24:35.120
practicing with pbus technique because

0:24:35.120,0:24:37.520
you will be sliding your hand up the

0:24:37.520,0:24:39.039
rope a lot

0:24:39.039,0:24:42.159
with the backup of your other hand

0:24:42.159,0:24:44.240
and you will learn the feeling of the

0:24:44.240,0:24:46.640
rope going through your hand so start

0:24:46.640,0:24:49.200
with this and once you get really

0:24:49.200,0:24:51.200
comfortable with this

0:24:51.200,0:24:53.600
not bringing the left hand down and just

0:24:53.600,0:24:56.400
doing this will feel very natural by

0:24:56.400,0:24:58.000
that point

0:24:58.000,0:24:59.600
and just to make sure that i'm not

0:24:59.600,0:25:01.760
missing something in regards of safety

0:25:01.760,0:25:03.600
of these three techniques i wrote an

0:25:03.600,0:25:06.960
email to about 25 different climbing

0:25:06.960,0:25:09.120
safety related organizations and

0:25:09.120,0:25:11.360
associations and asked them to comment

0:25:11.360,0:25:13.440
on these techniques not all of them

0:25:13.440,0:25:15.919
replied unfortunately however out of

0:25:15.919,0:25:18.480
those who replied none of them said

0:25:18.480,0:25:20.880
anything against of any particular

0:25:20.880,0:25:23.200
technique so as long as you follow the

0:25:23.200,0:25:25.760
basic guidelines of proper belaying you

0:25:25.760,0:25:27.919
will be fine maybe with an exception if

0:25:27.919,0:25:29.440
you're in the united states and you need

0:25:29.440,0:25:32.080
to take a delaying exam then you might

0:25:32.080,0:25:35.039
be forced to use the pibas and few more

0:25:35.039,0:25:36.640
mistakes that people do when they're

0:25:36.640,0:25:39.360
taking slack first of all they take the

0:25:39.360,0:25:43.760
slack like this or like this

0:25:43.760,0:25:46.320
so unless you are using a assisted

0:25:46.320,0:25:48.320
building device and you're guaranteed

0:25:48.320,0:25:51.279
that that device will lock at this angle

0:25:51.279,0:25:53.440
which i will make a separate video on

0:25:53.440,0:25:56.000
that you might be in trouble second

0:25:56.000,0:25:58.559
mistake is people hold

0:25:58.559,0:26:01.039
both strands of the rope with the left

0:26:01.039,0:26:04.480
hand they do something like this

0:26:04.480,0:26:06.960
the reason why they do this is to

0:26:06.960,0:26:09.279
prevent the belaying device from falling

0:26:09.279,0:26:12.159
down there however to fix that you don't

0:26:12.159,0:26:14.000
need to hold both strands of the rope

0:26:14.000,0:26:15.919
you can just simply hold one strand of

0:26:15.919,0:26:17.600
the rope and you will have

0:26:17.600,0:26:20.640
exactly the same result

0:26:20.640,0:26:22.320
okay that's a lot of talking about

0:26:22.320,0:26:24.559
taking slack i just felt that that's the

0:26:24.559,0:26:27.200
most important part and the rest will be

0:26:27.200,0:26:29.600
much more simple so to give slack you

0:26:29.600,0:26:31.919
simply reverse the tunneling technique

0:26:31.919,0:26:34.240
where your left hand pulls up while your

0:26:34.240,0:26:36.880
right hand assists then the left hand

0:26:36.880,0:26:39.760
goes down and you slide the break hand

0:26:39.760,0:26:42.880
down and you repeat

0:26:43.679,0:26:46.480
and the same technique works with most

0:26:46.480,0:26:48.880
of assisted delaying devices while with

0:26:48.880,0:26:50.880
some of assisted devices you will need a

0:26:50.880,0:26:53.600
special action with assisted tubers it's

0:26:53.600,0:26:55.520
common to push them up while you're

0:26:55.520,0:26:58.320
giving slack

0:26:58.400,0:27:00.559
now in case of the grigri you can either

0:27:00.559,0:27:04.320
use that standard way of giving slack or

0:27:04.320,0:27:06.400
you can press and greek this cam and

0:27:06.400,0:27:07.840
pull the rope

0:27:07.840,0:27:10.240
just don't forget the rule number two

0:27:10.240,0:27:13.360
the rope stays in the hand all the time

0:27:13.360,0:27:15.440
now in case you need to give a lot of

0:27:15.440,0:27:17.679
slack quickly like if the climber is

0:27:17.679,0:27:20.320
about to clip you take your left hand

0:27:20.320,0:27:22.159
close to the laying device and your

0:27:22.159,0:27:24.399
break hand far from the laying device

0:27:24.399,0:27:26.799
this is important only then you can give

0:27:26.799,0:27:28.960
a lot of slack quickly

0:27:28.960,0:27:31.919
if your left hand is somewhere up you

0:27:31.919,0:27:35.840
will be limited by it how far up you can

0:27:35.840,0:27:38.640
raise this hand equally if your brick

0:27:38.640,0:27:41.039
hand is close you will be limited by

0:27:41.039,0:27:43.200
that hand how fast you can give slack

0:27:43.200,0:27:45.200
and then you will need to

0:27:45.200,0:27:48.320
do more actions so left hand close right

0:27:48.320,0:27:50.640
hand far anticipate and you can give a

0:27:50.640,0:27:52.880
lot of slack quickly and if things go

0:27:52.880,0:27:54.799
wrong you can take all of that slack

0:27:54.799,0:27:56.640
quickly back now when you need to lower

0:27:56.640,0:27:58.720
the climber you take both of the hands

0:27:58.720,0:28:01.039
on the brake side of the rope and you

0:28:01.039,0:28:03.919
use one hand to feed the rope to the

0:28:03.919,0:28:05.360
other hand

0:28:05.360,0:28:08.080
that's one way or if you're comfortable

0:28:08.080,0:28:10.000
you can let the rope slide through both

0:28:10.000,0:28:12.240
of your hands

0:28:12.240,0:28:14.840
the risk here is however if you go too

0:28:14.840,0:28:17.919
fast the rope will go so fast through

0:28:17.919,0:28:20.080
both of your hands that it can burn both

0:28:20.080,0:28:22.480
of them and then you will probably drop

0:28:22.480,0:28:24.960
your climber so simply don't go fast

0:28:24.960,0:28:27.279
there is absolutely no point of lowering

0:28:27.279,0:28:29.120
a climber fast there is nothing cool

0:28:29.120,0:28:31.760
about that it heats your equipment way

0:28:31.760,0:28:33.760
more wears down your equipment it's

0:28:33.760,0:28:36.159
expensive and go in a controlled manner

0:28:36.159,0:28:38.559
and if you're not sure you can always

0:28:38.559,0:28:40.720
feed the rope like so and in case your

0:28:40.720,0:28:43.679
climber takes a fall

0:28:43.679,0:28:46.720
just hold on the brake side of the rope

0:28:46.720,0:28:48.559
even if you have number two in your

0:28:48.559,0:28:52.159
pants hold it never let go and as soon

0:28:52.159,0:28:54.799
as your climber will regain the ground

0:28:54.799,0:28:57.440
and unload the rope most of the blank

0:28:57.440,0:28:59.360
devices will unlock themselves and

0:28:59.360,0:29:01.840
you're ready to continue delaying while

0:29:01.840,0:29:04.799
with some devices like click up

0:29:04.799,0:29:07.600
once it locks you need a special action

0:29:07.600,0:29:10.720
to unlock it to continue blaming so as i

0:29:10.720,0:29:12.320
already said it's a good idea to look

0:29:12.320,0:29:14.240
into the manual of your blank device to

0:29:14.240,0:29:17.360
know all these little nuances that there

0:29:17.360,0:29:19.600
might be now if you are teaching

0:29:19.600,0:29:22.159
beginners or you are a beginner yourself

0:29:22.159,0:29:24.480
practice using belaying device on the

0:29:24.480,0:29:27.840
ground without a climber and only once

0:29:27.840,0:29:29.600
you're completely comfortable and you're

0:29:29.600,0:29:32.000
ready to go and actually play somebody

0:29:32.000,0:29:33.919
then make sure to have somebody

0:29:33.919,0:29:36.559
experienced backing up holding on the

0:29:36.559,0:29:39.120
break side of the rope and giving you

0:29:39.120,0:29:42.000
guidance assistance on your technique

0:29:42.000,0:29:44.960
this is really important i actually once

0:29:44.960,0:29:47.279
saved a climber when inexperienced

0:29:47.279,0:29:49.919
belayer was using a grigri i was backing

0:29:49.919,0:29:51.520
up the rope

0:29:51.520,0:29:53.760
and actually i was the one who caught

0:29:53.760,0:29:55.840
the fall and the full story if you're

0:29:55.840,0:29:58.720
interested is in this video about grigri

0:29:58.720,0:30:00.640
and of course don't take this video as a

0:30:00.640,0:30:02.559
complete guide into delaying there is

0:30:02.559,0:30:04.880
way more things you need to know from

0:30:04.880,0:30:07.919
proper slack management to soft catches

0:30:07.919,0:30:10.080
to belayer movement to good

0:30:10.080,0:30:12.240
communication with your climber and all

0:30:12.240,0:30:14.559
of that is coming in the future episodes

0:30:14.559,0:30:17.840
of belay master class

0:30:18.000,0:30:19.520
that's a lot of effort to make these

0:30:19.520,0:30:22.240
videos to be honest and this video was

0:30:22.240,0:30:24.480
brought to you by mamut

0:30:24.480,0:30:26.960
and by all the people who are supporting

0:30:26.960,0:30:30.480
me by visiting my website so huge thank

0:30:30.480,0:30:33.600
you for everyone and see you in the next

0:30:33.600,0:30:36.600
episode