WEBVTT 00:00:03.280 --> 00:00:04.607 Belaying devices. 00:00:04.607 --> 00:00:07.284 There are so many different belaying devices 00:00:07.284 --> 00:00:11.280 nowadays on the market and in my hands. 00:00:11.280 --> 00:00:13.440 And after this video you will be able 00:00:13.440 --> 00:00:14.960 to pick any of them. 00:00:14.960 --> 00:00:16.640 Not from my hands. 00:00:16.640 --> 00:00:19.756 And you will know how it works and how to use it. 00:00:19.756 --> 00:00:23.661 So first of all, a belaying device is simply a mechanism 00:00:23.661 --> 00:00:24.975 which allows to control 00:00:24.975 --> 00:00:26.960 the friction between your hand 00:00:26.960 --> 00:00:28.320 and the climber. 00:00:28.320 --> 00:00:29.519 Alright. 00:00:29.519 --> 00:00:33.370 So here I hang and here I have almost 00:00:33.370 --> 00:00:38.100 60 kilograms of force pulling on this strand of the rope. 00:00:38.100 --> 00:00:40.719 However for me to hold that 00:00:40.719 --> 00:00:45.760 I'm only using about 6 to 7 kilograms of force 00:00:45.760 --> 00:00:47.440 on the brake side of the rope. 00:00:47.440 --> 00:00:50.480 However if I would start raising 00:00:50.480 --> 00:00:54.079 my brake hand up 00:00:54.079 --> 00:00:56.670 the force needed to hold that 00:00:56.670 --> 00:01:00.539 goes to 9 kilograms of force... 00:01:00.539 --> 00:01:02.640 10... 00:01:02.640 --> 00:01:05.120 12... 00:01:07.280 --> 00:01:10.280 15... 00:01:17.040 --> 00:01:21.040 So my max was around 25 kilograms of force 00:01:21.040 --> 00:01:23.840 with two hands in this position. 00:01:23.840 --> 00:01:27.094 That means that in this position at this angle 00:01:27.094 --> 00:01:30.140 I can not even hold my own weight with two hands. 00:01:30.140 --> 00:01:32.887 There is no even talking about one hand. 00:01:32.887 --> 00:01:35.352 So now let's see how much assistance I will get 00:01:35.352 --> 00:01:39.110 if my rope strands are completely parallel to each other. 00:01:39.110 --> 00:01:42.059 So I will start pulling up 00:01:42.059 --> 00:01:46.439 as hard as i can. 00:01:56.079 --> 00:01:58.399 And so the answer is almost nothing. 00:01:58.399 --> 00:01:59.943 Now to explain how that works 00:01:59.943 --> 00:02:02.608 since there is so many different belaying devices 00:02:02.608 --> 00:02:05.972 I'm gonna group all of them into different categories. 00:02:05.972 --> 00:02:08.500 First one is tubular style devices. 00:02:08.500 --> 00:02:11.590 That many mistakenly call them reverso. 00:02:11.590 --> 00:02:14.440 Which is only this device - Petzl Reverso. 00:02:14.440 --> 00:02:18.480 Or ATC which is this Black Diamond ATC. 00:02:18.480 --> 00:02:21.459 While Mammut calls this Alpine Belaying Device. Simple. 00:02:21.459 --> 00:02:25.450 So with tubes the more I move my brake hand down 00:02:25.450 --> 00:02:30.011 the more it squeezes the rope between the carabiner and belaying device. 00:02:30.011 --> 00:02:34.009 And also tubes have a little groove in front of them. 00:02:34.009 --> 00:02:37.089 Which even further pinches on the rope. 00:02:37.089 --> 00:02:40.574 Plus as I pull down on the rope it tilts the device 00:02:40.574 --> 00:02:43.840 which creates extra angles and extra friction. 00:02:43.840 --> 00:02:46.380 So as we saw in my previous experiment 00:02:46.380 --> 00:02:50.959 if my hand is at the level of the belaying device or higher 00:02:50.959 --> 00:02:53.120 the device creates very little friction. 00:02:53.120 --> 00:02:55.257 So if the climber would fall 00:02:55.257 --> 00:02:58.800 while my hand is in this position or higher 00:02:58.800 --> 00:03:01.365 there is a high chance that my hand would simply 00:03:01.365 --> 00:03:04.080 get sucked into the belaying device. 00:03:04.959 --> 00:03:08.680 I got my hand pinched... 00:03:19.280 --> 00:03:21.290 And then maybe I will hurt my hand 00:03:21.290 --> 00:03:23.920 And let go off the rope. 00:03:23.920 --> 00:03:25.920 So if you want to see how my hand is 00:03:25.920 --> 00:03:27.750 getting sucked into belaying device 00:03:27.750 --> 00:03:29.800 I already made a video about that. 00:03:29.800 --> 00:03:32.908 Also worth mentioning is that rope thickness or diameter 00:03:32.908 --> 00:03:35.175 has a huge effect on how easily 00:03:35.175 --> 00:03:37.610 the rope will go through belaying device. 00:03:37.610 --> 00:03:39.519 And every belaying device has a 00:03:39.519 --> 00:03:42.239 recommended range of rope thicknesses 00:03:42.239 --> 00:03:44.580 which you can find somewhere in the manuals 00:03:44.580 --> 00:03:46.600 or sometimes on the device itself. 00:03:46.600 --> 00:03:49.120 And this brings us to advantages 00:03:49.120 --> 00:03:50.993 of tubular style devices. 00:03:50.993 --> 00:03:55.193 First of all they work better with wider range of rope diameters. 00:03:55.193 --> 00:03:58.475 All the way from super thick gym ropes 00:03:58.475 --> 00:04:01.000 to ultra skinny twin ropes. 00:04:01.000 --> 00:04:03.509 On contrast if you would take a GriGri 00:04:03.509 --> 00:04:06.058 it says that it's optimized to work 00:04:06.058 --> 00:04:09.867 from 8.9 to 10.5 millimeters ropes. 00:04:09.867 --> 00:04:11.680 But from my experience 00:04:11.680 --> 00:04:14.319 anything from 10 millimeters and above 00:04:14.319 --> 00:04:16.120 doesn't work that well anymore. 00:04:16.120 --> 00:04:19.991 Yeah, there is this older GriGri which works better with thicker ropes. 00:04:19.991 --> 00:04:22.800 But that one doesn't work well with thin ropes. 00:04:22.800 --> 00:04:25.689 Next, tubes are super lightweight. 00:04:25.689 --> 00:04:27.840 And they allow you to belay with two ropes 00:04:27.840 --> 00:04:29.599 either double ropes or twin ropes. 00:04:29.599 --> 00:04:31.981 And if you don't know what's a double or twin rope 00:04:31.981 --> 00:04:35.000 you should watch my master class on the ropes. 00:04:35.000 --> 00:04:37.562 Also with tubes you can make a soft catch 00:04:37.562 --> 00:04:39.170 without moving yourself. 00:04:39.170 --> 00:04:42.720 By allowing the rope to slip through the device. 00:04:42.720 --> 00:04:46.720 And in general tubes don't catch as hard 00:04:46.720 --> 00:04:49.239 because there is always a little bit of slippage 00:04:49.239 --> 00:04:51.840 which reduces the peak forces. 00:04:51.840 --> 00:04:54.240 Which might be very beneficial for trad climbers. 00:04:54.240 --> 00:04:56.560 Since it reduces the chance 00:04:56.560 --> 00:04:59.080 that the pieces of the gear will fall out. 00:04:59.080 --> 00:05:02.409 And finally tubes have this loop at the top. 00:05:02.409 --> 00:05:05.515 And that allows you to set this device in a guide mode 00:05:05.515 --> 00:05:08.693 in which you can even belay two following climbers 00:05:08.693 --> 00:05:13.440 coming up on top rope simultaneously 00:05:13.440 --> 00:05:16.231 simon... simultaneously. 00:05:16.231 --> 00:05:18.364 And all of that are the reasons 00:05:18.364 --> 00:05:21.370 why tubes are still very commonly used 00:05:21.370 --> 00:05:24.438 in traditional or alpine or multi-pitch scenarios. 00:05:24.438 --> 00:05:27.680 However none of that is really useful 00:05:27.680 --> 00:05:30.258 if you're just doing single pitch sport climbing. 00:05:30.258 --> 00:05:32.399 And the biggest disadvantage of tubes 00:05:32.399 --> 00:05:34.300 is of course that they don't lock 00:05:34.300 --> 00:05:37.600 meaning if you would let go the rope. 00:05:37.600 --> 00:05:39.262 Which by the way brings us 00:05:39.262 --> 00:05:41.000 to the main rule of belaying. 00:05:41.000 --> 00:05:43.520 If you are in need of number two 00:05:43.520 --> 00:05:46.479 and you have a choice to poop your pants 00:05:46.479 --> 00:05:50.400 or to let go the brake side of the rope - 00:05:50.400 --> 00:05:52.059 you poop your pants! 00:05:52.059 --> 00:05:55.889 Meaning in no circumstances you're allowed to lose control 00:05:55.889 --> 00:05:57.440 of the brake side of the rope. 00:05:57.440 --> 00:05:59.600 And that's by the way also equally true 00:05:59.600 --> 00:06:03.115 for assisted belaying devices but we are gonna talk next. 00:06:03.115 --> 00:06:06.530 So assisted devices have an ability to lock 00:06:06.530 --> 00:06:08.485 in case the climber falls. 00:06:08.485 --> 00:06:11.445 Which obviously adds a lot of safety. 00:06:11.445 --> 00:06:14.804 For example if you would knock a rock while you're climbing 00:06:14.804 --> 00:06:19.039 and that rock would fall on your belayer's head... 00:06:19.039 --> 00:06:20.801 And that's why we wear a helmet! 00:06:20.801 --> 00:06:24.235 So first of all your belayer would really like to have a helmet. 00:06:24.235 --> 00:06:27.159 But you as a climber would really love that 00:06:27.159 --> 00:06:30.369 there would be one of these assisted devices down there. 00:06:30.369 --> 00:06:33.960 And in fact my own skin was once saved by this guy. 00:06:33.960 --> 00:06:35.564 When I did a little fall 00:06:35.564 --> 00:06:37.265 and my belayer did not notice 00:06:37.265 --> 00:06:39.573 that there was a rock next to her leg. 00:06:39.573 --> 00:06:41.876 And while she was flying forward, 00:06:41.876 --> 00:06:44.907 her leg got stuck, and she spun around, 00:06:44.907 --> 00:06:46.784 and hit her back to the wall. 00:06:46.784 --> 00:06:49.459 And let both of the hands go. 00:06:49.459 --> 00:06:54.400 So this guy is basically a reason why I'm still here. 00:06:54.400 --> 00:06:56.180 And making these videos. 00:06:56.180 --> 00:06:59.280 Now super important that number two rule 00:06:59.280 --> 00:07:01.355 is also applicable for these guys. 00:07:01.355 --> 00:07:04.011 After all they are called assisted. 00:07:04.011 --> 00:07:07.212 So don't treat them as fully automatic. 00:07:07.212 --> 00:07:10.880 Because there are cases where they will not lock. 00:07:10.880 --> 00:07:13.759 Apart from safety this locking is also 00:07:13.759 --> 00:07:15.849 super useful in long belays 00:07:15.849 --> 00:07:18.527 If your climber is hanging on the rope a lot 00:07:18.527 --> 00:07:20.520 and projecting some hard moves. 00:07:20.520 --> 00:07:22.559 So if we compare this to the tube 00:07:22.559 --> 00:07:26.720 even in the most mechanically advantaged position 00:07:26.720 --> 00:07:29.280 you will still need to hold on the rope. 00:07:29.280 --> 00:07:32.733 And in very long belays this will get tiring. 00:07:32.733 --> 00:07:35.214 While with assisted devices it's pretty chill. 00:07:35.214 --> 00:07:37.780 You are literally just sitting in your harness. 00:07:37.780 --> 00:07:42.880 OK, so the first group of assisted belaying devices 00:07:42.880 --> 00:07:45.073 is called assisted tubers. 00:07:45.073 --> 00:07:48.412 That's because they look like tubes 00:07:48.412 --> 00:07:51.403 and they work similarly to regular tubes 00:07:51.403 --> 00:07:52.960 where we squeeze the rope 00:07:52.960 --> 00:07:55.759 between the carabiner and the device. 00:07:55.759 --> 00:07:57.682 Except that they have a shape 00:07:57.682 --> 00:08:00.440 that shifts the carabiner in position 00:08:00.440 --> 00:08:03.404 where it squeezes on the rope so hard 00:08:03.404 --> 00:08:05.481 that it completely locks it off. 00:08:05.481 --> 00:08:08.604 A little disadvantage of assisted tubes 00:08:08.604 --> 00:08:11.320 is that once in locked position 00:08:11.320 --> 00:08:14.160 you cannot quickly feed slack to the climber. 00:08:14.160 --> 00:08:17.403 You need a special action to unlock the device 00:08:17.403 --> 00:08:19.516 before you can feed the rope. 00:08:19.516 --> 00:08:21.425 For example with Click Up. 00:08:21.425 --> 00:08:23.225 It even clicks. 00:08:23.225 --> 00:08:25.219 And now I cannot do anything. 00:08:25.219 --> 00:08:27.909 I literally need to unclick it. 00:08:27.909 --> 00:08:29.531 And now I can continue belaying. 00:08:29.531 --> 00:08:31.340 Now one really important thing 00:08:31.340 --> 00:08:33.708 that not many know about assisted tubers. 00:08:33.708 --> 00:08:36.423 That they suffer from the same problem 00:08:36.423 --> 00:08:38.334 as regular tubes 00:08:38.334 --> 00:08:42.320 meaning that if your hand is in up position 00:08:42.320 --> 00:08:44.430 the device will not lock. 00:08:44.430 --> 00:08:45.987 As you can see it's not locking 00:08:45.987 --> 00:08:48.720 And if the climber would take a fall 00:08:48.720 --> 00:08:51.040 the rope would just slide from my hand 00:08:51.040 --> 00:08:54.160 and burn it. Oh, it's already burning. 00:08:54.160 --> 00:08:56.540 However unlike regular tubes 00:08:56.540 --> 00:08:58.240 where you can get your hands sucked 00:08:58.240 --> 00:08:59.963 even at very big angles 00:08:59.963 --> 00:09:01.661 most assisted tubers 00:09:01.661 --> 00:09:03.930 will only fail at the angles 00:09:03.930 --> 00:09:06.272 that are very extremely high up. 00:09:06.272 --> 00:09:08.519 And some actually don't fail at all. 00:09:08.519 --> 00:09:10.879 I'm actually gonna make a separate video 00:09:10.879 --> 00:09:12.699 where I was experimenting 00:09:12.699 --> 00:09:15.830 at which angles which devices lock. 00:09:15.830 --> 00:09:17.569 So stay tuned for that. 00:09:17.569 --> 00:09:20.152 I can't put everything into one video because 00:09:20.152 --> 00:09:23.040 I need you to subscribe. 00:09:23.040 --> 00:09:26.109 But independently of which belaying device you're using 00:09:26.109 --> 00:09:29.583 just develop a habit of keeping your brake hand down. 00:09:29.583 --> 00:09:32.730 Also good to know for people who climb with two ropes 00:09:32.730 --> 00:09:34.800 is that there are assisted tubers 00:09:34.800 --> 00:09:36.389 that work with two ropes. 00:09:36.389 --> 00:09:37.879 In case you go on a multi-pitch 00:09:37.879 --> 00:09:39.422 and you want extra safety 00:09:39.422 --> 00:09:41.439 you have some options. 00:09:41.439 --> 00:09:44.320 All right let's move on to cam assisted devices. 00:09:44.320 --> 00:09:46.345 I'm sure everybody knows GriGri. 00:09:46.345 --> 00:09:48.500 But there are more devices like 00:09:48.500 --> 00:09:51.079 Trango Vergo and Birdie and others. 00:09:51.079 --> 00:09:52.378 And the way they work is 00:09:52.378 --> 00:09:54.658 that they have a camming mechanism inside 00:09:54.658 --> 00:09:56.308 which pinches on the rope. 00:09:56.308 --> 00:09:58.197 Now in the case of GriGri 00:09:58.197 --> 00:10:01.680 the cam is spring-loaded meaning that as soon as 00:10:01.680 --> 00:10:04.661 there is no more load on the climber's end of the rope 00:10:04.661 --> 00:10:06.399 the cam will disengage. 00:10:06.399 --> 00:10:08.715 And you can belay normally. 00:10:08.715 --> 00:10:10.397 While in the case of Vergo 00:10:10.397 --> 00:10:11.760 it doesn't have a spring. 00:10:11.760 --> 00:10:14.160 And you need to position the device 00:10:14.160 --> 00:10:15.920 in a certain way 00:10:15.920 --> 00:10:17.940 to be able to feed the slack. 00:10:17.940 --> 00:10:19.977 All right back to GriGri. 00:10:19.977 --> 00:10:22.219 If you press on GriGri's cam 00:10:22.219 --> 00:10:25.200 but you ignore the rule number two 00:10:25.200 --> 00:10:28.464 and you don't hold the break side of the rope 00:10:28.464 --> 00:10:32.279 this can happen... 00:10:37.920 --> 00:10:40.880 Also if you ignore rule number two 00:10:40.880 --> 00:10:45.200 and your GriGri gets trapped in the first piece of gear 00:10:45.200 --> 00:10:47.839 this can happen... 00:10:51.360 --> 00:10:53.279 Many of you asked 00:10:53.279 --> 00:10:56.158 if this problem of trapping in the first bolt 00:10:56.158 --> 00:10:58.479 where it disengages the cam 00:10:58.479 --> 00:11:01.981 is also applicable for assisted tubers. 00:11:01.981 --> 00:11:04.780 So with most assisted devices 00:11:04.780 --> 00:11:07.120 the answer is unlikely. 00:11:07.120 --> 00:11:09.920 Since there is no cam that i could press 00:11:09.920 --> 00:11:12.560 to disengage this locking. 00:11:12.560 --> 00:11:16.079 Only if i would press on this end 00:11:16.079 --> 00:11:18.800 it kind of slips a bit but still 00:11:18.800 --> 00:11:21.600 stays locked. 00:11:25.920 --> 00:11:29.120 This Click Up 00:11:29.120 --> 00:11:33.040 doesn't even lock if i don't hold the rope. 00:11:33.040 --> 00:11:37.760 Amazing. Number two rule. Hold the rope. 00:11:38.959 --> 00:11:40.480 Yeah. 00:11:40.480 --> 00:11:44.560 There's no way I can unlock this 00:11:44.560 --> 00:11:47.440 in this manner. 00:11:47.680 --> 00:11:50.918 So no assisted tubers don't have this risk. 00:11:50.918 --> 00:11:53.040 Now this is a little future me 00:11:53.040 --> 00:11:56.280 after I was editing this part that you just seen. 00:11:56.280 --> 00:11:58.480 And I saw this I realized that 00:11:58.480 --> 00:12:00.960 I was using a wrong carabiner. 00:12:00.960 --> 00:12:05.388 Turns out Click Ups need their own specific carabiners 00:12:05.388 --> 00:12:07.860 And that's a reason why you should read the manual. 00:12:07.860 --> 00:12:12.450 So that's the carabiner you should use for a Click Up. 00:12:12.450 --> 00:12:15.440 Let's see if it locks. 00:12:16.399 --> 00:12:19.120 No difference. 00:12:19.760 --> 00:12:22.240 So number two rule. 00:12:22.240 --> 00:12:23.630 And read the manual 00:12:23.630 --> 00:12:26.230 because some of the assisted belaying devices 00:12:26.230 --> 00:12:28.820 require you a specific belaying carabiner. 00:12:28.820 --> 00:12:30.640 I don't know if it's just marketing 00:12:30.640 --> 00:12:33.488 or the shape of the carabiner is slightly different. 00:12:33.488 --> 00:12:36.500 Just use what the manufacturers recommend. 00:12:36.500 --> 00:12:38.484 And finally there is this guy. 00:12:38.484 --> 00:12:41.120 It's a Revo from Wild Country. 00:12:41.120 --> 00:12:43.782 It's an inertia based mechanism. 00:12:43.782 --> 00:12:46.560 Which will lock once the climber starts 00:12:46.560 --> 00:12:49.346 falling faster than 4 meters per second. 00:12:49.346 --> 00:12:51.753 So if i pull slowly it doesn't lock. 00:12:51.753 --> 00:12:56.320 I need to pull really fast in order for it to lock. 00:12:56.320 --> 00:12:57.940 So my goal of this video 00:12:57.940 --> 00:13:00.320 is not to compare all of the belaying devices 00:13:00.320 --> 00:13:02.639 on the market and tell you which one to buy. 00:13:02.639 --> 00:13:03.755 Sorry for that. 00:13:03.755 --> 00:13:09.010 Every device have its own pros and cons, haters and lovers. 00:13:09.010 --> 00:13:10.299 Full internet of that. 00:13:10.299 --> 00:13:12.997 However if you would want such comparison 00:13:12.997 --> 00:13:14.969 let me know in the comments and maybe 00:13:14.969 --> 00:13:17.810 I will make a separate video on that. 00:13:17.810 --> 00:13:19.250 OK now I have a tip for you 00:13:19.250 --> 00:13:21.491 that will make your life a little bit easier. 00:13:21.491 --> 00:13:23.790 And maybe will even save your ass 00:13:23.790 --> 00:13:25.040 on a multi-pitch one day. 00:13:25.040 --> 00:13:26.160 Humans, 00:13:26.160 --> 00:13:28.409 we have two hands normally. 00:13:28.409 --> 00:13:32.399 And handling more than two objects in two hands 00:13:32.399 --> 00:13:33.430 is not ideal. 00:13:33.430 --> 00:13:36.130 What I often see that people take their belaying device, 00:13:36.130 --> 00:13:37.773 their carabiner, the rope... 00:13:37.773 --> 00:13:39.879 That's already three objects by the way. 00:13:39.879 --> 00:13:42.639 And they try to connect everything 00:13:42.639 --> 00:13:44.959 in space 00:13:44.959 --> 00:13:48.440 like so... 00:13:49.440 --> 00:13:50.443 Ready to belay. 00:13:50.443 --> 00:13:52.170 So doing this 00:13:52.170 --> 00:13:53.694 will greatly increase the chance 00:13:53.694 --> 00:13:55.469 that one day you will drop something. 00:13:55.469 --> 00:13:57.359 You will be trying to connect something 00:13:57.359 --> 00:13:59.360 and then suddenly whoops... 00:13:59.360 --> 00:14:01.010 Your belaying device flies down. 00:14:01.010 --> 00:14:02.444 If you're not on a multi-pitch 00:14:02.444 --> 00:14:03.994 if you're standing on the ground 00:14:03.994 --> 00:14:05.279 that's not a big deal. 00:14:05.279 --> 00:14:07.680 However if you drop your belaying device 00:14:07.680 --> 00:14:09.199 on a multi-pitch 00:14:09.199 --> 00:14:10.509 you are in big trouble. 00:14:10.509 --> 00:14:12.696 So this is what you do to avoid that. 00:14:12.696 --> 00:14:14.275 Normally your belaying device 00:14:14.275 --> 00:14:15.920 will live with your carabiner 00:14:15.920 --> 00:14:17.760 somewhere on the harness. 00:14:17.760 --> 00:14:18.853 So step one. 00:14:18.853 --> 00:14:22.422 You take both of them together as one unit. 00:14:22.422 --> 00:14:24.848 So I'm carrying only one unit. 00:14:24.848 --> 00:14:28.800 And you immediately connect it to belaying loop. 00:14:28.800 --> 00:14:31.279 So you cannot drop anything right now, 00:14:31.279 --> 00:14:32.316 everything is safe. 00:14:32.316 --> 00:14:34.391 Step two. You take a bite of rope 00:14:34.391 --> 00:14:37.600 and you insert into your belaying device. 00:14:37.600 --> 00:14:40.284 Keep in mind of the orientation of the rope 00:14:40.284 --> 00:14:42.320 which end has to go to the climber 00:14:42.320 --> 00:14:44.340 which end is your break hand. 00:14:44.340 --> 00:14:45.618 If you're not sure 00:14:45.618 --> 00:14:48.079 every belaying device has an image 00:14:48.079 --> 00:14:49.496 on the side of it. 00:14:49.496 --> 00:14:51.040 Which will remind you that. 00:14:51.040 --> 00:14:53.696 And next. Open your carabiner 00:14:53.696 --> 00:14:56.399 and hook your rope together 00:14:56.399 --> 00:14:58.480 with the belaying device. 00:14:58.480 --> 00:15:01.440 So at no point there was a chance for me 00:15:01.440 --> 00:15:02.690 to drop anything. 00:15:02.690 --> 00:15:04.094 And once you're done belaying 00:15:04.094 --> 00:15:05.600 you simply reverse the process. 00:15:05.600 --> 00:15:07.670 Where you open the carabiner, 00:15:07.670 --> 00:15:08.887 you unhook the rope. 00:15:08.887 --> 00:15:10.570 But you hook the belaying device. 00:15:10.570 --> 00:15:13.351 And then you simply can just pull out the rope. 00:15:13.351 --> 00:15:16.480 And your belaying device stays on your harness with the carabiner. 00:15:16.480 --> 00:15:19.430 If you want to put it somewhere else you put it somewhere else. 00:15:19.430 --> 00:15:21.280 And the same works with assisted tubers. 00:15:21.280 --> 00:15:22.800 So step one. 00:15:22.800 --> 00:15:25.682 Connect your belaying device to your harness, 00:15:25.682 --> 00:15:27.206 take a bite of rope, 00:15:27.206 --> 00:15:31.519 put that bite of rope into belaying device, 00:15:31.519 --> 00:15:36.399 open the carabiner and hook the rope and belaying device together. 00:15:36.399 --> 00:15:39.510 Now in case of the GriGri it's slightly different. 00:15:39.510 --> 00:15:41.513 So as always step one 00:15:41.513 --> 00:15:44.920 clip your belaying device to your belay loop. 00:15:44.920 --> 00:15:45.627 So you cannot drop anything. 00:15:45.627 --> 00:15:47.249 Now if you're not on a multi-pitch 00:15:47.249 --> 00:15:49.281 and dropping your GriGri is not a big deal 00:15:49.281 --> 00:15:51.143 you simply take off your grigri, 00:15:51.143 --> 00:15:53.199 open it in this cool way, 00:15:53.199 --> 00:15:56.720 insert the rope, and clip it back. Simple. 00:15:56.720 --> 00:15:59.759 Now if you are on a multi-pitch 00:15:59.759 --> 00:16:01.360 there is a technique. 00:16:01.360 --> 00:16:02.533 So this is what you do. 00:16:02.533 --> 00:16:05.680 You open your carabiner 00:16:05.680 --> 00:16:09.182 and hook only half of the GriGri together. 00:16:09.182 --> 00:16:10.800 Then you can open the GriGri. 00:16:10.800 --> 00:16:12.770 And it's connected to your carabiner. 00:16:12.770 --> 00:16:13.831 You cannot drop it. 00:16:13.831 --> 00:16:15.289 You insert the rope. 00:16:15.289 --> 00:16:17.360 You close it. 00:16:17.360 --> 00:16:19.600 And then you open your carabiner again 00:16:19.600 --> 00:16:21.759 and hook the GriGri back. 00:16:21.759 --> 00:16:24.823 So this is as safe as you can do with the grigri 00:16:24.823 --> 00:16:25.953 on a multi-pitch. 00:16:25.953 --> 00:16:27.691 And obviously once you're done 00:16:27.691 --> 00:16:31.759 it's just simply reversing the process of 00:16:31.759 --> 00:16:34.839 doing this 00:16:34.839 --> 00:16:37.519 and doing that. 00:16:37.519 --> 00:16:39.133 OK so I hope that by now 00:16:39.133 --> 00:16:41.010 I gave you enough examples 00:16:41.010 --> 00:16:43.448 how not to use belaying devices. 00:16:43.448 --> 00:16:46.430 And now i'm gonna show you proper techniques. 00:16:46.430 --> 00:16:48.079 The good part is that 00:16:48.079 --> 00:16:50.312 no matter what belaying device you use 00:16:50.312 --> 00:16:52.714 good belaying techniques don't change. 00:16:52.714 --> 00:16:55.230 There are slight differences that i'm gonna mention. 00:16:55.230 --> 00:16:57.440 But for majority it's the same. 00:16:57.440 --> 00:16:58.320 All right. 00:16:58.320 --> 00:16:59.739 So I hope that by now 00:16:59.739 --> 00:17:02.974 number two rule is strongly embedded into you. 00:17:02.974 --> 00:17:04.731 However if for some reason 00:17:04.731 --> 00:17:06.977 you really need to go hands-free 00:17:06.977 --> 00:17:09.520 you can tie a backup knot 00:17:09.520 --> 00:17:12.400 at your brake end. Like so. 00:17:12.400 --> 00:17:14.640 And this is totally fine. 00:17:14.640 --> 00:17:16.799 In case something happens and the rope 00:17:16.799 --> 00:17:18.400 would slip all the way 00:17:18.400 --> 00:17:20.400 the GriGri will lock. 00:17:20.400 --> 00:17:22.040 However in the case of tube 00:17:22.040 --> 00:17:23.299 it's slightly different. 00:17:23.299 --> 00:17:25.120 If you would just simply 00:17:25.120 --> 00:17:27.039 tie a knot here. 00:17:27.039 --> 00:17:28.556 And the climber would fall. 00:17:28.556 --> 00:17:29.660 There is a chance that 00:17:29.660 --> 00:17:31.970 this knot will get jammed 00:17:31.970 --> 00:17:33.717 in your belaying device so hard 00:17:33.717 --> 00:17:37.675 that you will have trouble to unjam it. 00:17:37.675 --> 00:17:39.740 Let's use a slightly different carabiner 00:17:39.740 --> 00:17:42.172 so it's easier for you to see what's happening. 00:17:42.172 --> 00:17:44.510 So in the case of tube 00:17:44.510 --> 00:17:45.793 you take a bite of rope 00:17:45.793 --> 00:17:47.940 and then you take another bite of rope 00:17:47.940 --> 00:17:50.559 and put through the first one 00:17:50.559 --> 00:17:52.640 and you make it tight. 00:17:52.640 --> 00:17:55.840 And make sure that this loop is long enough. 00:17:55.840 --> 00:17:56.960 Like so. 00:17:56.960 --> 00:17:59.489 This will hold but this is not enough. 00:17:59.489 --> 00:18:02.149 To make it extra safe 00:18:02.149 --> 00:18:05.316 you tie in back up knot here. 00:18:05.316 --> 00:18:07.292 So now i can go hands-free. 00:18:07.292 --> 00:18:09.363 And in case my climber takes a fall 00:18:09.363 --> 00:18:10.700 this will hold him. 00:18:10.700 --> 00:18:13.200 And if i want to release all of that 00:18:13.200 --> 00:18:15.840 hold the brake side of the rope, 00:18:15.840 --> 00:18:19.200 untie the top backup knot, 00:18:19.200 --> 00:18:22.799 and start pulling the rope 00:18:22.799 --> 00:18:25.440 until you have a little loop left. 00:18:25.440 --> 00:18:27.440 At this point inform your climber that 00:18:27.440 --> 00:18:28.400 he might 00:18:28.400 --> 00:18:30.160 feel a little bump 00:18:30.160 --> 00:18:32.480 and tug fast. 00:18:32.480 --> 00:18:34.280 Like so. If you do this correctly 00:18:34.280 --> 00:18:36.227 your climber will not go down at all. 00:18:36.227 --> 00:18:40.559 Now if you're not familiar with slip slap slap... 00:18:40.559 --> 00:18:43.439 this technique - good . 00:18:43.439 --> 00:18:46.270 You can safely ignore my next sentence. 00:18:46.270 --> 00:18:48.325 However if you're using that technique 00:18:48.325 --> 00:18:51.448 I would strongly advise you to reconsider. 00:18:51.448 --> 00:18:53.000 Because in the case of the fall 00:18:53.000 --> 00:18:54.605 your hand might get sucked 00:18:54.605 --> 00:18:55.860 into the bellying device 00:18:55.860 --> 00:18:57.770 faster than you might think. 00:18:57.770 --> 00:18:59.600 So as a good rule of thumb keep 00:18:59.600 --> 00:19:01.952 your break hand always down. 00:19:01.952 --> 00:19:06.250 And do any hand swapping or sliding there. 00:19:06.250 --> 00:19:07.788 So now a little disclaimer. 00:19:07.788 --> 00:19:08.720 I'm gonna show you 00:19:08.720 --> 00:19:11.970 three different techniques of taking slack. 00:19:11.970 --> 00:19:14.322 And depending on where you are on the planet 00:19:14.322 --> 00:19:15.360 some of them 00:19:15.360 --> 00:19:17.981 might be not considered as acceptable. 00:19:17.981 --> 00:19:19.457 So stick with me 00:19:19.457 --> 00:19:20.603 I'm gonna explain. 00:19:20.603 --> 00:19:23.360 Because i went really deep in this rabbit hole. 00:19:23.360 --> 00:19:25.303 So all the techniques start the same. 00:19:25.303 --> 00:19:26.940 Your left hand reaches up 00:19:26.940 --> 00:19:28.639 and pulls down on the rope. 00:19:28.639 --> 00:19:30.613 While at the same time your break hand 00:19:30.613 --> 00:19:33.280 pushes forward and locks it down. 00:19:33.280 --> 00:19:35.360 And now at this point you need to bring 00:19:35.360 --> 00:19:37.763 your right hand up the rope. 00:19:37.763 --> 00:19:40.696 And there are three different ways to do so. 00:19:40.696 --> 00:19:41.600 The first one. 00:19:41.600 --> 00:19:43.210 It's more popular in Europe. 00:19:43.210 --> 00:19:45.630 And it's called hand over hand 00:19:45.630 --> 00:19:46.640 or V to the knee. 00:19:46.640 --> 00:19:49.515 So you simply take your left hand 00:19:49.515 --> 00:19:52.560 and go over your right hand 00:19:52.560 --> 00:19:53.760 and then right hand goes 00:19:53.760 --> 00:19:54.875 over your left hand. 00:19:54.875 --> 00:19:57.950 That's why it's called hand over hand. 00:19:57.950 --> 00:19:59.936 So you take, .... hand over hand, 00:19:59.936 --> 00:20:03.490 you take, ... hand over hand. 00:20:03.490 --> 00:20:05.550 So I find myself using this technique 00:20:05.550 --> 00:20:08.169 when the climber wants me to take really hard 00:20:08.169 --> 00:20:10.110 as he's moving up the rope. 00:20:10.110 --> 00:20:11.566 Because you're always 00:20:11.566 --> 00:20:13.529 pulling down on the rope. 00:20:13.529 --> 00:20:15.039 You can... 00:20:15.039 --> 00:20:16.908 It kind of feels like 00:20:16.908 --> 00:20:19.039 climbing up the rope. 00:20:19.039 --> 00:20:21.840 Very comfortable. 00:20:22.559 --> 00:20:24.400 So the problem with this technique is 00:20:24.400 --> 00:20:26.339 that when people get really good 00:20:26.339 --> 00:20:29.200 and can do it really fast 00:20:29.200 --> 00:20:32.320 they start letting go the brake hand 00:20:32.320 --> 00:20:35.768 before the left hand goes into the locking position. 00:20:35.768 --> 00:20:36.884 So we do this. 00:20:36.884 --> 00:20:40.400 We take this, let go already, 00:20:40.400 --> 00:20:42.525 and then go into locking position. 00:20:42.525 --> 00:20:44.561 If the climber would fall 00:20:44.561 --> 00:20:46.990 in the moment where you let go this 00:20:46.990 --> 00:20:49.785 and you don't lock the hand down 00:20:49.785 --> 00:20:52.290 you probably know what would happen. 00:20:52.290 --> 00:20:54.240 So obviously a simple solution - 00:20:54.240 --> 00:20:55.039 lock, 00:20:55.039 --> 00:20:56.903 and then in the locking position 00:20:56.903 --> 00:20:58.347 do any hand swapping. 00:20:58.347 --> 00:21:00.399 And another thing you need to be aware of 00:21:00.399 --> 00:21:01.919 that sometimes if the 00:21:01.919 --> 00:21:03.769 climber drops a bunch of slack 00:21:03.769 --> 00:21:05.695 your belaying device falls down. 00:21:05.695 --> 00:21:07.511 And here you need to be careful 00:21:07.511 --> 00:21:09.440 to not take your left 00:21:09.440 --> 00:21:11.669 hand over the belaying device. 00:21:11.669 --> 00:21:13.553 Otherwise if you do so 00:21:13.553 --> 00:21:15.382 and the climber falls 00:21:15.382 --> 00:21:18.952 your hand gets into this awkward position. 00:21:18.952 --> 00:21:21.280 So instead you reach under your belaying device 00:21:21.280 --> 00:21:23.150 and you grab the rope. 00:21:23.150 --> 00:21:25.152 And now if the climber would fall 00:21:25.152 --> 00:21:26.758 everything would be fine. 00:21:26.758 --> 00:21:29.150 All right. Next technique is called PBUS. 00:21:29.150 --> 00:21:31.290 Which is more commonly used in America. 00:21:31.290 --> 00:21:33.430 Which means Pull, Break... 00:21:33.430 --> 00:21:36.480 So basically the same stuff, as before. 00:21:36.480 --> 00:21:40.080 But now instead of taking over the hand 00:21:40.080 --> 00:21:42.888 you take Under and Slide. 00:21:42.888 --> 00:21:46.480 So Pull, Brake, Under, Slide. 00:21:46.480 --> 00:21:49.176 Pull Brake Under Slide. 00:21:49.176 --> 00:21:50.920 So the benefit of this technique 00:21:50.920 --> 00:21:53.624 is your strong hand never leaves the rope. 00:21:53.624 --> 00:21:55.738 A little drawback of this technique 00:21:55.738 --> 00:21:58.116 is when you have weight on the rope, 00:21:58.116 --> 00:22:00.240 and you're trying to take hard, 00:22:00.240 --> 00:22:02.880 now sliding up this hand 00:22:02.880 --> 00:22:05.530 is not as comfortable as 00:22:05.530 --> 00:22:09.520 in hand over hand technique. 00:22:09.520 --> 00:22:10.945 So at some point 00:22:10.945 --> 00:22:14.087 as you will be practicing your p-bus technique 00:22:14.087 --> 00:22:15.699 you will realize 00:22:15.699 --> 00:22:17.440 that you don't actually need 00:22:17.440 --> 00:22:19.518 to bring your left hand down there 00:22:19.518 --> 00:22:21.917 in order to bring your break hand up. 00:22:21.917 --> 00:22:24.799 You can simply slide it up. 00:22:24.799 --> 00:22:26.627 And this is a third technique 00:22:26.627 --> 00:22:28.613 which is called a tunnel technique. 00:22:28.613 --> 00:22:30.237 And since your left hand 00:22:30.237 --> 00:22:32.320 never leaves this rope 00:22:32.320 --> 00:22:34.080 it's the most efficient technique. 00:22:34.080 --> 00:22:36.320 Because you can always switch between 00:22:36.320 --> 00:22:39.600 taking slack and giving slack instantly. 00:22:39.600 --> 00:22:41.251 So no matter in which 00:22:41.251 --> 00:22:43.340 moment of taking slack I am 00:22:43.340 --> 00:22:45.360 I can always give slack. 00:22:45.360 --> 00:22:47.600 And contrary any other technique where 00:22:47.600 --> 00:22:49.600 my left hand leaves 00:22:49.600 --> 00:22:51.225 now it needs to go back 00:22:51.225 --> 00:22:53.198 in order for me to give slack 00:22:53.198 --> 00:22:55.039 so it's an extra action. 00:22:55.039 --> 00:22:57.280 Also tunnel technique is the best for 00:22:57.280 --> 00:23:00.000 taking small amounts of slack. 00:23:00.000 --> 00:23:02.506 If I would try to take a small amount of slack 00:23:02.506 --> 00:23:04.985 continuously with any other technique 00:23:04.985 --> 00:23:09.840 it's a lot of hand movements. 00:23:09.840 --> 00:23:13.440 While the tunnel technique it's very relaxed. 00:23:13.440 --> 00:23:16.247 And that's why it's the most efficient technique. 00:23:16.247 --> 00:23:17.831 However you might know 00:23:17.831 --> 00:23:19.098 or maybe you don't 00:23:19.098 --> 00:23:21.624 this technique is actually not considered 00:23:21.624 --> 00:23:25.120 acceptable in some parts of the planet. 00:23:25.120 --> 00:23:27.760 With the argument that during the moment 00:23:27.760 --> 00:23:30.080 where you slide the hand up 00:23:30.080 --> 00:23:32.732 you don't have a firm grip on the brake hand. 00:23:32.732 --> 00:23:34.799 And during the fall maybe you will 00:23:34.799 --> 00:23:36.583 not be able to catch the fall. 00:23:36.583 --> 00:23:39.600 To which here is my arguments. 00:23:39.600 --> 00:23:41.439 First of all if you use 00:23:41.439 --> 00:23:43.521 any assisted belaying device 00:23:43.521 --> 00:23:45.600 you don't even need any 00:23:45.600 --> 00:23:47.840 hard grip on the brake side of the rope. 00:23:47.840 --> 00:23:52.159 Any light tug will make the device lock. 00:23:52.159 --> 00:23:54.600 So this is not an issue immediately. 00:23:54.600 --> 00:23:56.252 Now if you are using a tube 00:23:56.252 --> 00:23:57.505 I actually went out 00:23:57.505 --> 00:23:59.260 and did an experiment on this. 00:23:59.260 --> 00:24:01.375 Where I asked inexperienced belayers 00:24:01.375 --> 00:24:03.713 to keep moving the hand up and down 00:24:03.713 --> 00:24:05.820 while I was distracting them 00:24:05.820 --> 00:24:07.120 and the climber was 00:24:07.120 --> 00:24:10.159 taking unexpected falls for them. 00:24:10.159 --> 00:24:11.780 So stay tuned for that 00:24:11.780 --> 00:24:13.108 it's gonna be really crazy 00:24:13.108 --> 00:24:14.989 and really interesting episode. 00:24:14.989 --> 00:24:17.425 But in general when sliding the hand up 00:24:17.425 --> 00:24:18.817 don't make a big tunnel. 00:24:18.817 --> 00:24:20.340 I don't like that this technique 00:24:20.340 --> 00:24:22.400 is actually called a tunnel method. 00:24:22.400 --> 00:24:23.942 It shouldn't be a tunnel. 00:24:23.942 --> 00:24:26.550 You're barely opening the hand just 00:24:26.550 --> 00:24:29.471 barely enough for it to slide up the rope. 00:24:29.471 --> 00:24:30.976 And if you are a beginner 00:24:30.976 --> 00:24:31.991 it's really good idea 00:24:31.991 --> 00:24:34.451 to start practicing with PBUS technique. 00:24:34.451 --> 00:24:39.039 Because you will be sliding your hand up the rope a lot 00:24:39.039 --> 00:24:42.159 with the backup of your other hand. 00:24:42.159 --> 00:24:44.240 And you will learn the feeling of the 00:24:44.240 --> 00:24:46.073 rope going through your hand. 00:24:46.073 --> 00:24:47.589 So start with this 00:24:47.589 --> 00:24:48.703 and once you get 00:24:48.703 --> 00:24:51.200 really comfortable with this 00:24:51.200 --> 00:24:53.600 not bringing the left hand down and just 00:24:53.600 --> 00:24:56.320 doing this will feel very natural. 00:24:56.320 --> 00:24:58.000 By that point. 00:24:58.000 --> 00:24:59.083 And just to make sure 00:24:59.083 --> 00:25:00.610 that I'm not missing something 00:25:00.610 --> 00:25:02.995 in regards of safety of these three techniques 00:25:02.995 --> 00:25:04.526 I wrote an email to about 00:25:04.526 --> 00:25:08.055 25 different climbing safety related 00:25:08.055 --> 00:25:10.082 organizations and associations. 00:25:10.082 --> 00:25:12.511 And asked them to comment on these techniques. 00:25:12.511 --> 00:25:14.942 Not all of them replied, unfortunately. 00:25:14.942 --> 00:25:17.336 However out of those who replied 00:25:17.336 --> 00:25:19.875 none of them said anything against of 00:25:19.875 --> 00:25:21.558 any particular technique. 00:25:21.558 --> 00:25:23.200 So as long as you follow the 00:25:23.200 --> 00:25:25.508 basic guidelines of proper belaying 00:25:25.508 --> 00:25:26.769 you will be fine. 00:25:26.769 --> 00:25:27.890 Maybe with an exception 00:25:27.890 --> 00:25:29.440 if you're in the US and you need 00:25:29.440 --> 00:25:31.115 to take a delaying exam. 00:25:31.115 --> 00:25:33.900 Then you might be forced to use the PBUS. 00:25:33.900 --> 00:25:36.261 And few more mistakes that people do 00:25:36.261 --> 00:25:37.610 when they're taking slack. 00:25:37.610 --> 00:25:40.477 First of all they take the slack like this 00:25:40.477 --> 00:25:43.760 or like this... 00:25:43.760 --> 00:25:45.717 So unless you are using 00:25:45.717 --> 00:25:47.272 a assisted belaying device 00:25:47.272 --> 00:25:48.320 and you're guaranteed 00:25:48.320 --> 00:25:51.279 that that device will lock at this angle 00:25:51.279 --> 00:25:53.914 which I will make a separate video on that 00:25:53.914 --> 00:25:55.509 you might be in trouble. 00:25:55.509 --> 00:25:58.559 Second mistake is people hold 00:25:58.559 --> 00:26:01.593 both strands of the rope with the left hand. 00:26:01.593 --> 00:26:04.480 They do something like this. 00:26:04.480 --> 00:26:06.492 The reason why they do this 00:26:06.492 --> 00:26:08.515 is to prevent the belaying device 00:26:08.515 --> 00:26:10.142 from falling down there. 00:26:10.142 --> 00:26:12.419 However to fix that you don't need 00:26:12.419 --> 00:26:13.990 to hold both strands of the rope. 00:26:13.990 --> 00:26:15.060 You can just simply 00:26:15.060 --> 00:26:16.424 hold one strand of the rope. 00:26:16.424 --> 00:26:17.623 And you will have 00:26:17.623 --> 00:26:20.640 exactly the same result. 00:26:20.640 --> 00:26:23.130 OK that's a lot of talking about taking slack. 00:26:23.130 --> 00:26:25.817 I just felt that that's the most important part. 00:26:25.817 --> 00:26:28.388 And the rest will be much more simple. 00:26:28.388 --> 00:26:31.919 So to give slack you simply reverse the tunneling technique. 00:26:31.919 --> 00:26:35.513 Where your left hand pulls up while your right hand assists. 00:26:35.513 --> 00:26:37.568 Then the left hand goes down. 00:26:37.568 --> 00:26:40.210 And you slide the break hand down. 00:26:40.210 --> 00:26:42.880 And you repeat. 00:26:43.679 --> 00:26:46.480 And the same technique works with most 00:26:46.480 --> 00:26:48.403 of assisted belaying devices. 00:26:48.403 --> 00:26:50.380 While with some of assisted devices 00:26:50.380 --> 00:26:52.149 you will need a special action. 00:26:52.149 --> 00:26:53.994 With assisted tubers it's common 00:26:53.994 --> 00:26:55.185 to push them up 00:26:55.185 --> 00:26:58.320 while you're giving slack. 00:26:58.400 --> 00:27:00.559 Now in case of the GriGri you can either 00:27:00.559 --> 00:27:04.060 use that standard way of giving slack. 00:27:04.060 --> 00:27:06.240 Or you can press on GriGri's cam 00:27:06.240 --> 00:27:07.840 and pull the rope. 00:27:07.840 --> 00:27:10.240 Just don't forget the rule number two. 00:27:10.240 --> 00:27:13.360 The rope stays in the hand all the time. 00:27:13.360 --> 00:27:16.452 Now in case you need to give a lot of slack quickly. 00:27:16.452 --> 00:27:18.533 Like if the climber is about to clip. 00:27:18.533 --> 00:27:20.320 You take your left hand 00:27:20.320 --> 00:27:21.727 close to belaying device 00:27:21.727 --> 00:27:24.399 and your break hand far from belaying device. 00:27:24.399 --> 00:27:26.799 This is important. Only then you can give 00:27:26.799 --> 00:27:28.960 a lot of slack quickly. 00:27:28.960 --> 00:27:31.649 If your left hand is somewhere up 00:27:31.649 --> 00:27:33.230 you will be limited by it 00:27:33.230 --> 00:27:36.817 how far up you can raise this hand. 00:27:36.817 --> 00:27:39.744 Equally if your break hand is close 00:27:39.744 --> 00:27:41.679 you will be limited by that hand 00:27:41.679 --> 00:27:43.200 how fast you can give slack 00:27:43.200 --> 00:27:45.200 and then you will need to 00:27:45.200 --> 00:27:46.386 do more actions. 00:27:46.386 --> 00:27:47.878 So left hand close, 00:27:47.878 --> 00:27:49.800 right hand far. Anticipate. 00:27:49.800 --> 00:27:51.740 And you can give a lot of slack quickly. 00:27:51.740 --> 00:27:53.176 And if things go wrong 00:27:53.176 --> 00:27:55.527 you can take all of that slack quickly back. 00:27:55.527 --> 00:27:57.426 Now when you need to lower the climber 00:27:57.426 --> 00:27:58.720 you take both of the hands 00:27:58.720 --> 00:28:00.449 on the brake side of the rope. 00:28:00.449 --> 00:28:02.199 And you use one hand 00:28:02.199 --> 00:28:05.360 to feed the rope to the other hand. 00:28:05.360 --> 00:28:08.080 That's one way or if you're comfortable 00:28:08.080 --> 00:28:12.240 you can let the rope slide through both of your hands. 00:28:12.240 --> 00:28:15.232 The risk here is however if you go too fast 00:28:15.232 --> 00:28:17.644 the rope will go so fast 00:28:17.644 --> 00:28:19.064 through both of your hands 00:28:19.064 --> 00:28:20.613 that it can burn both of them. 00:28:20.613 --> 00:28:23.361 And then you will probably drop your climber. 00:28:23.361 --> 00:28:24.960 So simply don't go fast. 00:28:24.960 --> 00:28:28.302 There is absolutely no point of lowering a climber fast. 00:28:28.302 --> 00:28:29.996 There is nothing cool about that. 00:28:29.996 --> 00:28:32.270 It heats your equipment way more, 00:28:32.270 --> 00:28:34.443 wears down your equipment, it's expensive. 00:28:34.443 --> 00:28:36.159 And go in a controlled manner. 00:28:36.159 --> 00:28:38.559 And if you're not sure you can always 00:28:38.559 --> 00:28:39.787 feed the rope like so. 00:28:39.787 --> 00:28:43.679 And in case your climber takes a fall 00:28:43.679 --> 00:28:46.720 just hold on the brake side of the rope 00:28:46.720 --> 00:28:49.112 even if you have number two in your pants. 00:28:49.112 --> 00:28:51.304 Hold it. Never let go. 00:28:51.304 --> 00:28:54.799 And as soon as your climber will regain the ground 00:28:54.799 --> 00:28:58.018 and unload the rope most of the belaying devices 00:28:58.018 --> 00:28:59.270 will unlock themselves. 00:28:59.270 --> 00:29:01.558 And you're ready to continue belaying. 00:29:01.558 --> 00:29:04.799 While with some devices like Click Up 00:29:04.799 --> 00:29:07.600 once it locks you need a special action 00:29:07.600 --> 00:29:10.129 to unlock it to continue belaying. 00:29:10.129 --> 00:29:11.170 So as i already said 00:29:11.170 --> 00:29:13.178 it's a good idea to look into the manual 00:29:13.178 --> 00:29:14.320 of your belaying device 00:29:14.320 --> 00:29:18.232 to know all these little nuances that there might be. 00:29:18.232 --> 00:29:20.353 Now if you are teaching beginners 00:29:20.353 --> 00:29:22.159 or you are a beginner yourself 00:29:22.159 --> 00:29:24.220 practice using belaying device 00:29:24.220 --> 00:29:26.792 on the ground, without a climber. 00:29:26.792 --> 00:29:29.280 And only once you're completely comfortable 00:29:29.280 --> 00:29:32.000 and you're ready to go and actually belay somebody 00:29:32.000 --> 00:29:33.919 then make sure to have somebody 00:29:33.919 --> 00:29:35.747 experienced backing up, 00:29:35.747 --> 00:29:37.775 holding on the break side of the rope, 00:29:37.775 --> 00:29:42.000 and giving you guidance, assistance on your technique. 00:29:42.000 --> 00:29:43.915 This is really important. 00:29:43.915 --> 00:29:46.449 I actually once saved a climber 00:29:46.449 --> 00:29:49.004 when inexperienced belayer was using a GriGri 00:29:49.004 --> 00:29:51.520 I was backing up the rope. 00:29:51.520 --> 00:29:54.373 And actually I was the one who caught the fall. 00:29:54.373 --> 00:29:55.554 And the full story 00:29:55.554 --> 00:29:56.757 if you're interested is 00:29:56.757 --> 00:29:58.720 in this video about GriGri. 00:29:58.720 --> 00:30:00.430 And of course don't take this video 00:30:00.430 --> 00:30:02.239 as a complete guide into belaying. 00:30:02.239 --> 00:30:04.297 There is way more things you need to know. 00:30:04.297 --> 00:30:06.474 From proper slack management 00:30:06.474 --> 00:30:09.553 to soft catches, to belayer movement, 00:30:09.553 --> 00:30:11.877 to good communication with your climber. 00:30:11.877 --> 00:30:17.840 And all of that is coming in the future episodes of belay master class. 00:30:18.000 --> 00:30:20.780 That's a lot of effort to make these videos to be honest. 00:30:20.780 --> 00:30:22.240 And this video was 00:30:22.240 --> 00:30:24.480 brought to you by Mammut 00:30:24.480 --> 00:30:25.960 and by all the people 00:30:25.960 --> 00:30:27.400 who are supporting me 00:30:27.400 --> 00:30:29.255 by visiting my website. 00:30:29.255 --> 00:30:31.885 So huge thank you for everyone. 00:30:31.885 --> 00:30:36.600 And see you in the next episode.