WEBVTT

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Belaying devices.

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There are so many different
belaying devices

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nowadays on the market and in my hands.

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And after this video you will be able

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to pick any of them.

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Not from my hands.

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And you will know how it works 
and how to use it.

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So first of all, a belaying device
is simply a mechanism

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which allows to control

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the friction between your hand

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and the climber.

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Alright.

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So here I hang and here I have almost

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60 kilograms of force pulling 
on this strand of the rope.

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However for me to hold that

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I'm only using about 6 to 7 
kilograms of force

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on the brake side of the rope.

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However if I would start raising

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my brake hand up

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the force needed to hold that

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goes to 9 kilograms of force...

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10...

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12...

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15...

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So my max was around 25 kilograms of force

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with two hands in this position.

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That means that in this position 
at this angle

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I can not even hold my own weight
with two hands.

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There is no even talking about one hand.

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So now let's see how much
assistance I will get

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if my rope strands are completely 
parallel to each other.

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So I will start pulling up

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as hard as i can.

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And so the answer is almost nothing.

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Now to explain how that works

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since there is so many 
different belaying devices

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I'm gonna group all of them 
into different categories.

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First one is tubular style devices.

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That many mistakenly call them reverso.

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Which is only this device - 
Petzl Reverso.

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Or ATC which is this Black Diamond ATC.

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While Mammut calls this 
Alpine Belaying Device. Simple.

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So with tubes the more
I move my brake hand down

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the more it squeezes the rope between 
the carabiner and belaying device.

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And also tubes have 
a little groove in front of them.

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Which even further pinches on the rope.

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Plus as I pull down on the rope
it tilts the device

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which creates extra angles 
and extra friction.

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So as we saw in my previous experiment

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if my hand is at the 
level of the belaying device or higher

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the device creates very little friction.

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So if the climber would fall

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while my hand is 
in this position or higher

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there is a high chance 
that my hand would simply

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get sucked into the belaying device.

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I got my hand pinched...

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and then maybe i will hurt my hand and

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let go of the rope

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so if you want to see how my hand is

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getting sucked into belaying device i

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already made a video about that also

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worth mentioning is that rope thickness

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or diameter has a huge effect on how

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easily the rope will go through belaying

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device and every belaying device has a

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recommended range of rope thicknesses

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which you can find somewhere in the

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manuals or sometimes on the device

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itself and this brings us to advantages

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of tubular style devices first of all

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they work better with wider range of

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rope diameters all the way from super

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thick gym ropes to ultra skinny twin

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ropes on contrast if you would take a

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grigri it says that it's optimized to

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work from 8.9 to 10 and a half

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millimeters ropes but from my experience

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anything from 10 millimeters and above

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doesn't work that well anymore yeah

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there is this older grigri which works

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better with thicker ropes but that one

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doesn't work well with thin ropes

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next tubes are super lightweight and

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they allow you to believe with two ropes

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either double ropes or twin ropes and if

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you don't know what's a double or twin

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rope you should watch my master class on

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the ropes also with tubes you can make a

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soft catch without moving yourself by

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allowing the rope to slip through the

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device

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and in general tubes don't catch as hard

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because there is always a little bit of

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slippage which reduces the peak forces

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which might be very beneficial for tread

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climbers since it reduces the chance

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that the pieces of the gear will fall

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out and finally tubes have this loop at

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the top and that allows you to set this

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device in a guide mode in which you can

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even delay two following climbers coming

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up on top rope simultaneously

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simon

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simultaneously and all of that are the

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reasons why tubes are still very

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commonly used in traditional or alpine

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or multi-pitch scenarios however none of

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that is really useful if you're just

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doing single pitch sport climbing and

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the biggest disadvantage of tubes is of

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course that they don't lock meaning if

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you would let go the rope

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which by the way brings us to the main

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role of bling if you are in need of

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number two

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and you have a choice to poop your pants

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or to let go the brake side of the rope

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you poop your pants meaning in no

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circumstances you're allowed to lose

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control of the brake side of the rope

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and that's by the way also equally true

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for assisted building devices but we are

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gonna talk next so assisted devices have

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an ability to lock in case the climber

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falls which obviously adds a lot of

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safety for example if you would knock a

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rock while you're climbing and that rock

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would fall on your belayer's head

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and that's why we wear a helmet so first

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of all your player would really like to

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have a helmet but you as a climber would

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really love it there would be one of

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these assisted devices down there and in

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fact my own skin was once saved by this

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guy when i did a little fall and my blur

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did not notice that there was a rock

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next to her leg and while she was flying

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forward her leg got stuck and she spun

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around and hid her back to the wall and

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let both of the hands go so

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this guy is basically a reason why i'm

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still here

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and making these videos now super

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important that number two rule

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is also applicable for these guys after

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all they are called assisted so don't

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treat them as fully automatic because

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there are cases where they will not lock

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apart from safety this locking is also

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super useful in long delays if your

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climber is hanging on the rope a lot and

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projecting some hard moves so if we

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compare this to the tube even in the

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most mechanically advantaged position

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you will still need to hold on the rope

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and in very long blades this will get

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tiring while with assisted devices it's

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pretty chill you are literally just

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sitting in your harness okay so the

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first group of assisted belaying devices

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is called assisted tubers that's because

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they

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look

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like tubes and they work similarly to

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regular tubes where we squeeze the rope

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between the carabiner and the device

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except that they have a shape that

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shifts the carabiner in position where

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it squeezes on the rope so hard that it

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completely locks it off a little

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disadvantage of assisted tubes is that

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once in locked position you cannot

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quickly feed slack to the climber you

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need a special action to unlock the

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device before you can feed the rope for

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example with click up it even clicks and

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now i cannot do anything i literally

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need to unclick it and now i can

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continue below now one really important

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thing that not many know about assisted

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tubers that they suffer from the same

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problem as regular tubes meaning that if

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your hand is in up position

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the device will not lock as you can see

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it's not locking and if the climber

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would take a fall

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the rope would just slide from my hand

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and burn it oh it's already burning

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however unlike regular tubes where you

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can get your hands sucked even at very

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big angles most assisted tubers will

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only fail at the angles that are very

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extremely high up and some actually

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don't fail at all i'm actually gonna

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make a separate video where i was

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experimenting at which angles which

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devices lock so

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stay tuned for that i can't put

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everything into one video because i need

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you to subscribe

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but independently of which belaying

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device you're using just develop a habit

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of keeping your bray hand down also good

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to know for people who climb with two

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ropes is that there are assisted tubers

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that work with two ropes in case you go

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on a multi-pitch and you want extra

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safety you have some options all right

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let's move on to cam assisted devices

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i'm sure everybody knows grigri but

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there are more devices like trango virgo

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and birdie and others and the way they

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work is that they have a camming

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mechanism inside which pinches on the

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rope now in the case of grigri the cam

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is spring-loaded meaning that as soon as

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there is no more load on the climber's

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end of the rope the cam will disengage

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and you can delay normally while in the

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case of virgo it doesn't have a spring

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and you need to position the device in a

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certain way

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to be able to feed the slag all right

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back to grigri if you press on grigri

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scam but you ignore the rule number two

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and you don't hold

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the break side of the rope this can

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happen

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also if you ignore rule number two

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and your grigri gets trapped in the

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first

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piece of gear

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this can happen

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many of you asked

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if this problem of trapping in the first

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bolt where it disengages the cam is also

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applicable for assisted tubers so with

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most assisted devices the answer is

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unlikely

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since there is no cam that i could press

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to disengage this locking

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only if i would press on this end

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it kind of slips a bit but still

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stays locked

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this

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click

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doesn't even lock if i don't hold the

00:11:31.120 --> 00:11:33.040
rope

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amazing number two rule all the rope

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yeah

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there's no way i can unlock this

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in this manner

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so no assisted tubers don't have this

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risk now this is a little future me

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after i was editing this part that you

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just seen and i saw this i realized that

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i was using a wrong carabiner turns out

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click ups need their own specific

00:12:04.480 --> 00:12:06.639
carabiners and that's a reason why you

00:12:06.639 --> 00:12:09.040
should read the manual so

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that's the carabiner you should use for

00:12:11.760 --> 00:12:15.440
a click up let's see if it locks

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no difference

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so number two rule

00:12:22.240 --> 00:12:24.880
and read the manual because some of the

00:12:24.880 --> 00:12:27.040
assisted delaying devices require you a

00:12:27.040 --> 00:12:29.279
specific belaying carabiner i don't know

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if it's just marketing or the shape of

00:12:31.440 --> 00:12:34.160
the carabiner is slightly different just

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use what the manufacturers recommend and

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finally there is this guy it's a rivo

00:12:39.519 --> 00:12:41.120
from wild country

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it's an inertia based mechanism which

00:12:44.240 --> 00:12:46.560
will lock once the climber starts

00:12:46.560 --> 00:12:48.800
falling faster than four meters per

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second so if i pull slowly it doesn't

00:12:51.360 --> 00:12:54.880
lock i need to pull really fast in order

00:12:54.880 --> 00:12:56.320
for it to lock

00:12:56.320 --> 00:12:58.320
so my goal of this video is not to

00:12:58.320 --> 00:13:00.480
compare all of the delaying devices on

00:13:00.480 --> 00:13:02.639
the market and tell you which one to buy

00:13:02.639 --> 00:13:05.760
sorry for that every device have its own

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pros and cons haters and lovers full

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internet of that however if you would

00:13:11.279 --> 00:13:13.760
want such comparison let me know in the

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comments and maybe i will make a

00:13:15.519 --> 00:13:18.320
separate video on that okay now i have a

00:13:18.320 --> 00:13:20.480
tip for you that will make your life a

00:13:20.480 --> 00:13:22.720
little bit easier and maybe will even

00:13:22.720 --> 00:13:25.040
save your ass on a multi-pitch one day

00:13:25.040 --> 00:13:26.160
humans

00:13:26.160 --> 00:13:29.279
we have two hands normally and handling

00:13:29.279 --> 00:13:32.399
more than two objects in two hands

00:13:32.399 --> 00:13:34.560
is not ideal what i often see that

00:13:34.560 --> 00:13:36.240
people take their playing device their

00:13:36.240 --> 00:13:38.800
carabiner the rope that's already three

00:13:38.800 --> 00:13:40.800
objects by the way and they try to

00:13:40.800 --> 00:13:42.639
connect everything

00:13:42.639 --> 00:13:44.959
in space

00:13:44.959 --> 00:13:48.440
like so

00:13:49.440 --> 00:13:52.320
ready to delay so doing this will

00:13:52.320 --> 00:13:54.160
greatly increase the chance that one day

00:13:54.160 --> 00:13:55.519
you will drop something you will be

00:13:55.519 --> 00:13:57.279
trying to connect something and then

00:13:57.279 --> 00:13:59.360
suddenly whoops

00:13:59.360 --> 00:14:01.440
your billing device flies down if you're

00:14:01.440 --> 00:14:03.040
not on a multi-pitch if you're standing

00:14:03.040 --> 00:14:05.279
on the ground that's not a big deal

00:14:05.279 --> 00:14:07.680
however if you drop your billing device

00:14:07.680 --> 00:14:09.199
on a multi-pitch

00:14:09.199 --> 00:14:11.440
you are in big trouble so this is what

00:14:11.440 --> 00:14:13.760
you do to avoid that normally your blade

00:14:13.760 --> 00:14:15.920
device will live with your carabiner

00:14:15.920 --> 00:14:17.760
somewhere on the harness

00:14:17.760 --> 00:14:20.320
so step one you take

00:14:20.320 --> 00:14:23.360
both of them together as one unit so i'm

00:14:23.360 --> 00:14:25.360
carrying only one unit and you

00:14:25.360 --> 00:14:27.440
immediately connect it to the laying

00:14:27.440 --> 00:14:28.800
loop

00:14:28.800 --> 00:14:31.279
so you cannot drop anything right now

00:14:31.279 --> 00:14:33.600
everything is safe step two you take a

00:14:33.600 --> 00:14:36.000
bite of rope and you insert into your

00:14:36.000 --> 00:14:37.600
blank device

00:14:37.600 --> 00:14:39.760
keep in mind of the orientation of the

00:14:39.760 --> 00:14:42.320
rope which end has to go to the climber

00:14:42.320 --> 00:14:44.800
which end is your break hand if you're

00:14:44.800 --> 00:14:48.079
not sure every blank device has an image

00:14:48.079 --> 00:14:50.560
on the side of it which will remind you

00:14:50.560 --> 00:14:52.320
that and next

00:14:52.320 --> 00:14:55.040
open your carabiner and hook your rope

00:14:55.040 --> 00:14:56.399
together

00:14:56.399 --> 00:14:58.480
with the belaying device

00:14:58.480 --> 00:15:01.440
so at no point there was a chance of for

00:15:01.440 --> 00:15:03.440
me to drop anything and once you're done

00:15:03.440 --> 00:15:05.600
playing you simply reverse the process

00:15:05.600 --> 00:15:08.240
where you open the carabiner you unhook

00:15:08.240 --> 00:15:10.240
the rope but you hook the belaying

00:15:10.240 --> 00:15:12.480
device and then you simply can just pull

00:15:12.480 --> 00:15:14.240
out the rope and your belaying device

00:15:14.240 --> 00:15:16.480
stays on your harness with the carabiner

00:15:16.480 --> 00:15:18.000
if you want to put it somewhere else you

00:15:18.000 --> 00:15:19.920
put it somewhere else and the same works

00:15:19.920 --> 00:15:22.800
with assisted tubers so step one connect

00:15:22.800 --> 00:15:23.920
your

00:15:23.920 --> 00:15:26.639
blank device to your harness take a bite

00:15:26.639 --> 00:15:29.279
of rope put that bite of rope into the

00:15:29.279 --> 00:15:31.519
laying device

00:15:31.519 --> 00:15:34.240
open the carabiner and hook the rope and

00:15:34.240 --> 00:15:36.399
playing device together

00:15:36.399 --> 00:15:38.720
now in case of the grigri it's slightly

00:15:38.720 --> 00:15:42.000
different so as always step one clip

00:15:42.000 --> 00:15:44.160
your blank device to your belay loop so

00:15:44.160 --> 00:15:46.079
you cannot drop anything now if you're

00:15:46.079 --> 00:15:48.000
not on a multi-pitch and dropping your

00:15:48.000 --> 00:15:50.000
grigri is not a big deal you simply take

00:15:50.000 --> 00:15:53.199
off your grigri open it in this cool way

00:15:53.199 --> 00:15:56.720
insert the rope and flip it back simple

00:15:56.720 --> 00:15:59.759
now if you are on a multi-pitch

00:15:59.759 --> 00:16:02.000
there is a technique so this is what you

00:16:02.000 --> 00:16:05.680
do you open your carabiner

00:16:05.680 --> 00:16:08.399
and hook only half of the degree

00:16:08.399 --> 00:16:10.800
together then you can open the grigri

00:16:10.800 --> 00:16:12.880
and it's connected to your carabiner you

00:16:12.880 --> 00:16:15.839
cannot drop it you insert the rope you

00:16:15.839 --> 00:16:17.360
close it

00:16:17.360 --> 00:16:19.600
and then you open your carabiner again

00:16:19.600 --> 00:16:21.759
and hook the grigri back

00:16:21.759 --> 00:16:24.000
so this is as safe as you can do with

00:16:24.000 --> 00:16:26.800
the grigri on a multi page and obviously

00:16:26.800 --> 00:16:28.480
once you're done it's just simply

00:16:28.480 --> 00:16:31.759
reversing the process of

00:16:31.759 --> 00:16:34.079
doing

00:16:34.839 --> 00:16:37.519
this and doing that

00:16:37.519 --> 00:16:39.920
okay so i hope that by now i gave you

00:16:39.920 --> 00:16:42.639
enough examples how not to use belaying

00:16:42.639 --> 00:16:45.199
devices and now i'm gonna show you

00:16:45.199 --> 00:16:48.079
proper techniques the good part is that

00:16:48.079 --> 00:16:50.800
no matter what blank device you use good

00:16:50.800 --> 00:16:53.040
belaying techniques don't change there

00:16:53.040 --> 00:16:54.560
are slight differences that i'm gonna

00:16:54.560 --> 00:16:57.440
mention but for majority it's the same

00:16:57.440 --> 00:16:58.320
all right

00:16:58.320 --> 00:17:01.120
so i hope that by now number two rule is

00:17:01.120 --> 00:17:03.920
strongly embedded into you however if

00:17:03.920 --> 00:17:06.079
for some reason you really need to go

00:17:06.079 --> 00:17:09.520
hands-free you can tie a backup knot

00:17:09.520 --> 00:17:12.400
at your brake and like so

00:17:12.400 --> 00:17:14.640
and this is totally fine

00:17:14.640 --> 00:17:16.799
in case something happens and the rope

00:17:16.799 --> 00:17:18.400
would slip all the way

00:17:18.400 --> 00:17:20.400
the grigri will lock

00:17:20.400 --> 00:17:22.240
however in the case of tube it's

00:17:22.240 --> 00:17:24.079
slightly different if you would just

00:17:24.079 --> 00:17:25.120
simply

00:17:25.120 --> 00:17:27.039
tie a knot here

00:17:27.039 --> 00:17:29.120
and the climber would fall there is a

00:17:29.120 --> 00:17:31.440
chance that this knot will get

00:17:31.440 --> 00:17:33.840
jammed in your blank device so hard that

00:17:33.840 --> 00:17:37.039
you will have trouble to

00:17:37.039 --> 00:17:39.120
unjam it let's use a slightly different

00:17:39.120 --> 00:17:41.200
carabiner so it's easier for you to see

00:17:41.200 --> 00:17:43.039
what's happening so

00:17:43.039 --> 00:17:45.360
in the case of tube you take a bite of

00:17:45.360 --> 00:17:47.600
rope and then you take another bite of

00:17:47.600 --> 00:17:50.559
rope and put through the first one

00:17:50.559 --> 00:17:52.640
and you make it tight

00:17:52.640 --> 00:17:54.240
and make sure that this loop is long

00:17:54.240 --> 00:17:55.840
enough

00:17:55.840 --> 00:17:56.960
like so

00:17:56.960 --> 00:18:00.000
this will hold but this is not enough to

00:18:00.000 --> 00:18:01.039
make it

00:18:01.039 --> 00:18:03.919
extra safe you tie in

00:18:03.919 --> 00:18:06.480
back up knot here so now i can go

00:18:06.480 --> 00:18:08.720
hands-free and in case my climber takes

00:18:08.720 --> 00:18:11.360
a fall this will hold him and if i want

00:18:11.360 --> 00:18:13.200
to release all of that

00:18:13.200 --> 00:18:15.840
hold the brake side of the rope

00:18:15.840 --> 00:18:17.919
and tie the top

00:18:17.919 --> 00:18:19.200
back up knot

00:18:19.200 --> 00:18:22.799
and start pulling the rope

00:18:22.799 --> 00:18:25.440
until you have a little loop left

00:18:25.440 --> 00:18:27.440
at this point inform your climber that

00:18:27.440 --> 00:18:28.400
he might

00:18:28.400 --> 00:18:30.160
feel a little bump

00:18:30.160 --> 00:18:31.280
and tug

00:18:31.280 --> 00:18:32.480
fast

00:18:32.480 --> 00:18:34.400
like so if you do this correctly your

00:18:34.400 --> 00:18:36.640
climber will not go down at all now if

00:18:36.640 --> 00:18:40.559
you're not familiar with slip slap slap

00:18:40.559 --> 00:18:41.440
this

00:18:41.440 --> 00:18:42.799
technique

00:18:42.799 --> 00:18:45.200
good you can safely ignore my next

00:18:45.200 --> 00:18:47.760
sentence however if you're using that

00:18:47.760 --> 00:18:50.320
technique i would strongly advise you to

00:18:50.320 --> 00:18:52.720
reconsider because in the case of the

00:18:52.720 --> 00:18:54.880
fall your hand might get sucked into the

00:18:54.880 --> 00:18:57.360
bellying device faster than you might

00:18:57.360 --> 00:18:59.600
think so as a good rule of thumb keep

00:18:59.600 --> 00:19:02.799
your break hand always down and do any

00:19:02.799 --> 00:19:06.880
hand swapping or sliding there so now a

00:19:06.880 --> 00:19:08.640
little disclaimer i'm gonna show you

00:19:08.640 --> 00:19:10.640
three different techniques of taking

00:19:10.640 --> 00:19:13.440
slack and depending on where you are on

00:19:13.440 --> 00:19:16.400
the planet some of them might be not

00:19:16.400 --> 00:19:19.200
considered as acceptable so stick with

00:19:19.200 --> 00:19:21.520
me i'm gonna explain because i went

00:19:21.520 --> 00:19:23.840
really deep in this rabbit hole so all

00:19:23.840 --> 00:19:25.840
the techniques start the same your left

00:19:25.840 --> 00:19:28.080
hand reaches up and pulls down on the

00:19:28.080 --> 00:19:30.320
rope while at the same time your break

00:19:30.320 --> 00:19:33.280
hand pushes forward and locks it down

00:19:33.280 --> 00:19:35.360
and now at this point you need to bring

00:19:35.360 --> 00:19:36.799
your right hand

00:19:36.799 --> 00:19:38.960
up the rope and there are three

00:19:38.960 --> 00:19:41.600
different ways to do so the first one

00:19:41.600 --> 00:19:43.440
it's more popular in europe and it's

00:19:43.440 --> 00:19:46.640
called hand over hand or v to the knee

00:19:46.640 --> 00:19:50.320
so you simply take your left hand and go

00:19:50.320 --> 00:19:51.360
over

00:19:51.360 --> 00:19:53.760
your right hand and then right hand goes

00:19:53.760 --> 00:19:55.360
over your left hand that's why it's

00:19:55.360 --> 00:19:58.799
called hand over hand so you take

00:19:58.799 --> 00:20:01.760
hand over hand you take

00:20:01.760 --> 00:20:04.880
hand over hand so i find myself using

00:20:04.880 --> 00:20:06.799
this technique when the climber wants me

00:20:06.799 --> 00:20:09.360
to take really hard as he's moving up

00:20:09.360 --> 00:20:12.080
the rope because you're always pulling

00:20:12.080 --> 00:20:15.039
down on the rope you can

00:20:15.039 --> 00:20:17.919
it kind of feels like climbing up the

00:20:17.919 --> 00:20:19.039
rope

00:20:19.039 --> 00:20:21.840
very comfortable

00:20:22.559 --> 00:20:24.400
so the problem with this technique is

00:20:24.400 --> 00:20:26.559
that when people get really good and can

00:20:26.559 --> 00:20:29.200
do it really fast

00:20:29.200 --> 00:20:32.320
they start letting go the brig and

00:20:32.320 --> 00:20:34.799
before the left hand goes into the

00:20:34.799 --> 00:20:37.760
locking position so we do this we take

00:20:37.760 --> 00:20:40.400
this let go already

00:20:40.400 --> 00:20:43.039
and then go into locking position if the

00:20:43.039 --> 00:20:45.679
climber would fall in the moment where

00:20:45.679 --> 00:20:48.960
you let go this and you don't lock the

00:20:48.960 --> 00:20:51.760
hand down you probably know what would

00:20:51.760 --> 00:20:54.240
happen so obviously a simple solution

00:20:54.240 --> 00:20:55.039
lock

00:20:55.039 --> 00:20:57.520
and then in the locking position do any

00:20:57.520 --> 00:20:59.520
hand swapping and another thing you need

00:20:59.520 --> 00:21:01.919
to be aware of that sometimes if the

00:21:01.919 --> 00:21:04.080
climber drops a bunch of slack your

00:21:04.080 --> 00:21:06.400
blank device falls down and here you

00:21:06.400 --> 00:21:09.440
need to be careful to not take your left

00:21:09.440 --> 00:21:12.559
hand over the belaying device otherwise

00:21:12.559 --> 00:21:15.679
if you do so and the climber falls your

00:21:15.679 --> 00:21:16.480
hand

00:21:16.480 --> 00:21:19.200
gets into this awkward position so

00:21:19.200 --> 00:21:21.280
instead you reach under your blank

00:21:21.280 --> 00:21:23.760
device and you grab the rope and now if

00:21:23.760 --> 00:21:26.080
the climber would fall everything would

00:21:26.080 --> 00:21:28.080
be fine all right next technique is

00:21:28.080 --> 00:21:30.480
called p-bus which is more commonly used

00:21:30.480 --> 00:21:33.840
in america which means pull break so

00:21:33.840 --> 00:21:36.480
basically the same stuff as before

00:21:36.480 --> 00:21:40.080
but now instead of taking over the hand

00:21:40.080 --> 00:21:41.919
you take under

00:21:41.919 --> 00:21:46.480
and slide so pull brake under slide

00:21:46.480 --> 00:21:47.919
pull brake

00:21:47.919 --> 00:21:50.480
under slide so the benefit of this

00:21:50.480 --> 00:21:52.559
technique is your strong hand never

00:21:52.559 --> 00:21:54.960
leaves the rope a little drawback of

00:21:54.960 --> 00:21:57.360
this technique is when you have weight

00:21:57.360 --> 00:21:59.280
on the rope and you're trying to take

00:21:59.280 --> 00:22:00.240
hard

00:22:00.240 --> 00:22:02.880
now sliding up this hand

00:22:02.880 --> 00:22:06.400
is not as comfortable as in

00:22:06.400 --> 00:22:09.520
hand over hand technique

00:22:09.520 --> 00:22:12.000
so at some point as you will be

00:22:12.000 --> 00:22:14.799
practicing your p-bus technique you will

00:22:14.799 --> 00:22:17.520
realize that you don't actually need to

00:22:17.520 --> 00:22:19.919
bring your left hand down there in order

00:22:19.919 --> 00:22:23.120
to bring your big hand up you can simply

00:22:23.120 --> 00:22:24.799
slide it up

00:22:24.799 --> 00:22:27.039
and this is a third technique which is

00:22:27.039 --> 00:22:29.520
called a tunnel technique and since your

00:22:29.520 --> 00:22:32.320
left hand never leaves this rope

00:22:32.320 --> 00:22:34.080
it's the most efficient technique

00:22:34.080 --> 00:22:36.320
because you can always switch between

00:22:36.320 --> 00:22:39.600
taking slack and giving slack instantly

00:22:39.600 --> 00:22:42.559
so no matter in which moment of taking

00:22:42.559 --> 00:22:45.360
slack i am i can always give slack

00:22:45.360 --> 00:22:47.600
and contrary any other technique where

00:22:47.600 --> 00:22:49.600
my left hand leaves

00:22:49.600 --> 00:22:52.240
now it needs to go back in order for me

00:22:52.240 --> 00:22:55.039
to give slack so it's an extra action

00:22:55.039 --> 00:22:57.280
also tunnel technique is the best for

00:22:57.280 --> 00:23:00.000
taking small amounts of slack

00:23:00.000 --> 00:23:01.919
if i would try to take a small amount of

00:23:01.919 --> 00:23:04.240
slack continuously with any other

00:23:04.240 --> 00:23:06.559
technique it's

00:23:06.559 --> 00:23:08.480
a lot of hand

00:23:08.480 --> 00:23:09.840
movements

00:23:09.840 --> 00:23:11.919
while the tunnel technique it's very

00:23:11.919 --> 00:23:13.440
relaxed

00:23:13.440 --> 00:23:15.600
and that's why it's the most efficient

00:23:15.600 --> 00:23:18.080
technique however you might know or

00:23:18.080 --> 00:23:20.159
maybe you don't this technique is

00:23:20.159 --> 00:23:23.120
actually not considered acceptable in

00:23:23.120 --> 00:23:25.120
some parts of the planet

00:23:25.120 --> 00:23:27.760
with the argument that during the moment

00:23:27.760 --> 00:23:30.080
where you slide the hand up

00:23:30.080 --> 00:23:32.320
you don't have a firm grip on the brake

00:23:32.320 --> 00:23:34.799
hand and during the fall maybe you will

00:23:34.799 --> 00:23:37.280
not be able to catch the fall to which

00:23:37.280 --> 00:23:39.600
here is my arguments

00:23:39.600 --> 00:23:42.320
first of all if you use any assisted

00:23:42.320 --> 00:23:45.600
belaying device you don't even need any

00:23:45.600 --> 00:23:47.840
hard grip on the brake side of the rope

00:23:47.840 --> 00:23:52.159
any light tug will make the device lock

00:23:52.159 --> 00:23:54.799
so this is not an issue immediately now

00:23:54.799 --> 00:23:57.200
if you are using a tube i actually went

00:23:57.200 --> 00:23:59.440
out and did an experiment on this where

00:23:59.440 --> 00:24:01.760
i asked inexperienced belayers to keep

00:24:01.760 --> 00:24:04.640
moving the hand up and down while i was

00:24:04.640 --> 00:24:07.120
distracting them and the climber was

00:24:07.120 --> 00:24:10.159
taking unexpected falls for them

00:24:10.159 --> 00:24:12.400
so stay tuned for that it's gonna be

00:24:12.400 --> 00:24:14.159
really crazy and really interesting

00:24:14.159 --> 00:24:16.720
episode but in general when sliding the

00:24:16.720 --> 00:24:19.200
hand up don't make a big tunnel i don't

00:24:19.200 --> 00:24:20.640
like that this technique is actually

00:24:20.640 --> 00:24:22.400
called a tunnel method

00:24:22.400 --> 00:24:25.200
it shouldn't be a tunnel you're barely

00:24:25.200 --> 00:24:27.840
opening the hand just barely enough for

00:24:27.840 --> 00:24:30.320
it to slide up the rope and if you are a

00:24:30.320 --> 00:24:32.559
beginner it's really good idea to start

00:24:32.559 --> 00:24:35.120
practicing with pbus technique because

00:24:35.120 --> 00:24:37.520
you will be sliding your hand up the

00:24:37.520 --> 00:24:39.039
rope a lot

00:24:39.039 --> 00:24:42.159
with the backup of your other hand

00:24:42.159 --> 00:24:44.240
and you will learn the feeling of the

00:24:44.240 --> 00:24:46.640
rope going through your hand so start

00:24:46.640 --> 00:24:49.200
with this and once you get really

00:24:49.200 --> 00:24:51.200
comfortable with this

00:24:51.200 --> 00:24:53.600
not bringing the left hand down and just

00:24:53.600 --> 00:24:56.400
doing this will feel very natural by

00:24:56.400 --> 00:24:58.000
that point

00:24:58.000 --> 00:24:59.600
and just to make sure that i'm not

00:24:59.600 --> 00:25:01.760
missing something in regards of safety

00:25:01.760 --> 00:25:03.600
of these three techniques i wrote an

00:25:03.600 --> 00:25:06.960
email to about 25 different climbing

00:25:06.960 --> 00:25:09.120
safety related organizations and

00:25:09.120 --> 00:25:11.360
associations and asked them to comment

00:25:11.360 --> 00:25:13.440
on these techniques not all of them

00:25:13.440 --> 00:25:15.919
replied unfortunately however out of

00:25:15.919 --> 00:25:18.480
those who replied none of them said

00:25:18.480 --> 00:25:20.880
anything against of any particular

00:25:20.880 --> 00:25:23.200
technique so as long as you follow the

00:25:23.200 --> 00:25:25.760
basic guidelines of proper belaying you

00:25:25.760 --> 00:25:27.919
will be fine maybe with an exception if

00:25:27.919 --> 00:25:29.440
you're in the united states and you need

00:25:29.440 --> 00:25:32.080
to take a delaying exam then you might

00:25:32.080 --> 00:25:35.039
be forced to use the pibas and few more

00:25:35.039 --> 00:25:36.640
mistakes that people do when they're

00:25:36.640 --> 00:25:39.360
taking slack first of all they take the

00:25:39.360 --> 00:25:43.760
slack like this or like this

00:25:43.760 --> 00:25:46.320
so unless you are using a assisted

00:25:46.320 --> 00:25:48.320
building device and you're guaranteed

00:25:48.320 --> 00:25:51.279
that that device will lock at this angle

00:25:51.279 --> 00:25:53.440
which i will make a separate video on

00:25:53.440 --> 00:25:56.000
that you might be in trouble second

00:25:56.000 --> 00:25:58.559
mistake is people hold

00:25:58.559 --> 00:26:01.039
both strands of the rope with the left

00:26:01.039 --> 00:26:04.480
hand they do something like this

00:26:04.480 --> 00:26:06.960
the reason why they do this is to

00:26:06.960 --> 00:26:09.279
prevent the belaying device from falling

00:26:09.279 --> 00:26:12.159
down there however to fix that you don't

00:26:12.159 --> 00:26:14.000
need to hold both strands of the rope

00:26:14.000 --> 00:26:15.919
you can just simply hold one strand of

00:26:15.919 --> 00:26:17.600
the rope and you will have

00:26:17.600 --> 00:26:20.640
exactly the same result

00:26:20.640 --> 00:26:22.320
okay that's a lot of talking about

00:26:22.320 --> 00:26:24.559
taking slack i just felt that that's the

00:26:24.559 --> 00:26:27.200
most important part and the rest will be

00:26:27.200 --> 00:26:29.600
much more simple so to give slack you

00:26:29.600 --> 00:26:31.919
simply reverse the tunneling technique

00:26:31.919 --> 00:26:34.240
where your left hand pulls up while your

00:26:34.240 --> 00:26:36.880
right hand assists then the left hand

00:26:36.880 --> 00:26:39.760
goes down and you slide the break hand

00:26:39.760 --> 00:26:42.880
down and you repeat

00:26:43.679 --> 00:26:46.480
and the same technique works with most

00:26:46.480 --> 00:26:48.880
of assisted delaying devices while with

00:26:48.880 --> 00:26:50.880
some of assisted devices you will need a

00:26:50.880 --> 00:26:53.600
special action with assisted tubers it's

00:26:53.600 --> 00:26:55.520
common to push them up while you're

00:26:55.520 --> 00:26:58.320
giving slack

00:26:58.400 --> 00:27:00.559
now in case of the grigri you can either

00:27:00.559 --> 00:27:04.320
use that standard way of giving slack or

00:27:04.320 --> 00:27:06.400
you can press and greek this cam and

00:27:06.400 --> 00:27:07.840
pull the rope

00:27:07.840 --> 00:27:10.240
just don't forget the rule number two

00:27:10.240 --> 00:27:13.360
the rope stays in the hand all the time

00:27:13.360 --> 00:27:15.440
now in case you need to give a lot of

00:27:15.440 --> 00:27:17.679
slack quickly like if the climber is

00:27:17.679 --> 00:27:20.320
about to clip you take your left hand

00:27:20.320 --> 00:27:22.159
close to the laying device and your

00:27:22.159 --> 00:27:24.399
break hand far from the laying device

00:27:24.399 --> 00:27:26.799
this is important only then you can give

00:27:26.799 --> 00:27:28.960
a lot of slack quickly

00:27:28.960 --> 00:27:31.919
if your left hand is somewhere up you

00:27:31.919 --> 00:27:35.840
will be limited by it how far up you can

00:27:35.840 --> 00:27:38.640
raise this hand equally if your brick

00:27:38.640 --> 00:27:41.039
hand is close you will be limited by

00:27:41.039 --> 00:27:43.200
that hand how fast you can give slack

00:27:43.200 --> 00:27:45.200
and then you will need to

00:27:45.200 --> 00:27:48.320
do more actions so left hand close right

00:27:48.320 --> 00:27:50.640
hand far anticipate and you can give a

00:27:50.640 --> 00:27:52.880
lot of slack quickly and if things go

00:27:52.880 --> 00:27:54.799
wrong you can take all of that slack

00:27:54.799 --> 00:27:56.640
quickly back now when you need to lower

00:27:56.640 --> 00:27:58.720
the climber you take both of the hands

00:27:58.720 --> 00:28:01.039
on the brake side of the rope and you

00:28:01.039 --> 00:28:03.919
use one hand to feed the rope to the

00:28:03.919 --> 00:28:05.360
other hand

00:28:05.360 --> 00:28:08.080
that's one way or if you're comfortable

00:28:08.080 --> 00:28:10.000
you can let the rope slide through both

00:28:10.000 --> 00:28:12.240
of your hands

00:28:12.240 --> 00:28:14.840
the risk here is however if you go too

00:28:14.840 --> 00:28:17.919
fast the rope will go so fast through

00:28:17.919 --> 00:28:20.080
both of your hands that it can burn both

00:28:20.080 --> 00:28:22.480
of them and then you will probably drop

00:28:22.480 --> 00:28:24.960
your climber so simply don't go fast

00:28:24.960 --> 00:28:27.279
there is absolutely no point of lowering

00:28:27.279 --> 00:28:29.120
a climber fast there is nothing cool

00:28:29.120 --> 00:28:31.760
about that it heats your equipment way

00:28:31.760 --> 00:28:33.760
more wears down your equipment it's

00:28:33.760 --> 00:28:36.159
expensive and go in a controlled manner

00:28:36.159 --> 00:28:38.559
and if you're not sure you can always

00:28:38.559 --> 00:28:40.720
feed the rope like so and in case your

00:28:40.720 --> 00:28:43.679
climber takes a fall

00:28:43.679 --> 00:28:46.720
just hold on the brake side of the rope

00:28:46.720 --> 00:28:48.559
even if you have number two in your

00:28:48.559 --> 00:28:52.159
pants hold it never let go and as soon

00:28:52.159 --> 00:28:54.799
as your climber will regain the ground

00:28:54.799 --> 00:28:57.440
and unload the rope most of the blank

00:28:57.440 --> 00:28:59.360
devices will unlock themselves and

00:28:59.360 --> 00:29:01.840
you're ready to continue delaying while

00:29:01.840 --> 00:29:04.799
with some devices like click up

00:29:04.799 --> 00:29:07.600
once it locks you need a special action

00:29:07.600 --> 00:29:10.720
to unlock it to continue blaming so as i

00:29:10.720 --> 00:29:12.320
already said it's a good idea to look

00:29:12.320 --> 00:29:14.240
into the manual of your blank device to

00:29:14.240 --> 00:29:17.360
know all these little nuances that there

00:29:17.360 --> 00:29:19.600
might be now if you are teaching

00:29:19.600 --> 00:29:22.159
beginners or you are a beginner yourself

00:29:22.159 --> 00:29:24.480
practice using belaying device on the

00:29:24.480 --> 00:29:27.840
ground without a climber and only once

00:29:27.840 --> 00:29:29.600
you're completely comfortable and you're

00:29:29.600 --> 00:29:32.000
ready to go and actually play somebody

00:29:32.000 --> 00:29:33.919
then make sure to have somebody

00:29:33.919 --> 00:29:36.559
experienced backing up holding on the

00:29:36.559 --> 00:29:39.120
break side of the rope and giving you

00:29:39.120 --> 00:29:42.000
guidance assistance on your technique

00:29:42.000 --> 00:29:44.960
this is really important i actually once

00:29:44.960 --> 00:29:47.279
saved a climber when inexperienced

00:29:47.279 --> 00:29:49.919
belayer was using a grigri i was backing

00:29:49.919 --> 00:29:51.520
up the rope

00:29:51.520 --> 00:29:53.760
and actually i was the one who caught

00:29:53.760 --> 00:29:55.840
the fall and the full story if you're

00:29:55.840 --> 00:29:58.720
interested is in this video about grigri

00:29:58.720 --> 00:30:00.640
and of course don't take this video as a

00:30:00.640 --> 00:30:02.559
complete guide into delaying there is

00:30:02.559 --> 00:30:04.880
way more things you need to know from

00:30:04.880 --> 00:30:07.919
proper slack management to soft catches

00:30:07.919 --> 00:30:10.080
to belayer movement to good

00:30:10.080 --> 00:30:12.240
communication with your climber and all

00:30:12.240 --> 00:30:14.559
of that is coming in the future episodes

00:30:14.559 --> 00:30:17.840
of belay master class

00:30:18.000 --> 00:30:19.520
that's a lot of effort to make these

00:30:19.520 --> 00:30:22.240
videos to be honest and this video was

00:30:22.240 --> 00:30:24.480
brought to you by mamut

00:30:24.480 --> 00:30:26.960
and by all the people who are supporting

00:30:26.960 --> 00:30:30.480
me by visiting my website so huge thank

00:30:30.480 --> 00:30:33.600
you for everyone and see you in the next

00:30:33.600 --> 00:30:36.600
episode