[Script Info] Title: [Events] Format: Layer, Start, End, Style, Name, MarginL, MarginR, MarginV, Effect, Text Dialogue: 0,0:00:03.28,0:00:04.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Belaying devices. Dialogue: 0,0:00:04.61,0:00:07.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There are so many different\Nbelaying devices Dialogue: 0,0:00:07.28,0:00:11.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nowadays on the market and in my hands. Dialogue: 0,0:00:11.28,0:00:13.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And after this video you will be able Dialogue: 0,0:00:13.44,0:00:14.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to pick any of them. Dialogue: 0,0:00:14.96,0:00:16.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Not from my hands. Dialogue: 0,0:00:16.64,0:00:19.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And you will know how it works \Nand how to use it. Dialogue: 0,0:00:19.76,0:00:23.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So first of all, a belaying device\Nis simply a mechanism Dialogue: 0,0:00:23.66,0:00:24.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which allows to control Dialogue: 0,0:00:24.98,0:00:26.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the friction between your hand Dialogue: 0,0:00:26.96,0:00:28.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the climber. Dialogue: 0,0:00:28.32,0:00:29.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Alright. Dialogue: 0,0:00:29.52,0:00:33.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So here I hang and here I have almost Dialogue: 0,0:00:33.37,0:00:38.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,60 kilograms of force pulling \Non this strand of the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:00:38.10,0:00:40.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However for me to hold that Dialogue: 0,0:00:40.72,0:00:45.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm only using about 6 to 7 \Nkilograms of force Dialogue: 0,0:00:45.76,0:00:47.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the brake side of the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:00:47.44,0:00:50.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However if I would start raising Dialogue: 0,0:00:50.48,0:00:54.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,my brake hand up Dialogue: 0,0:00:54.08,0:00:56.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the force needed to hold that Dialogue: 0,0:00:56.67,0:01:00.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,goes to 9 kilograms of force... Dialogue: 0,0:01:00.54,0:01:02.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,10... Dialogue: 0,0:01:02.64,0:01:05.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,12... Dialogue: 0,0:01:07.28,0:01:10.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,15... Dialogue: 0,0:01:17.04,0:01:21.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So my max was around 25 kilograms of force Dialogue: 0,0:01:21.04,0:01:23.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with two hands in this position. Dialogue: 0,0:01:23.84,0:01:27.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That means that in this position \Nat this angle Dialogue: 0,0:01:27.09,0:01:30.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I can not even hold my own weight\Nwith two hands. Dialogue: 0,0:01:30.14,0:01:32.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There is no even talking about one hand. Dialogue: 0,0:01:32.89,0:01:35.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So now let's see how much\Nassistance I will get Dialogue: 0,0:01:35.35,0:01:39.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if my rope strands are completely \Nparallel to each other. Dialogue: 0,0:01:39.11,0:01:42.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So I will start pulling up Dialogue: 0,0:01:42.06,0:01:46.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as hard as i can. Dialogue: 0,0:01:56.08,0:01:58.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And so the answer is almost nothing. Dialogue: 0,0:01:58.40,0:01:59.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now to explain how that works Dialogue: 0,0:01:59.94,0:02:02.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,since there is so many \Ndifferent belaying devices Dialogue: 0,0:02:02.61,0:02:05.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm gonna group all of them \Ninto different categories. Dialogue: 0,0:02:05.97,0:02:08.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,First one is tubular style devices. Dialogue: 0,0:02:08.50,0:02:11.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That many mistakenly call them reverso. Dialogue: 0,0:02:11.59,0:02:14.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Which is only this device - \NPetzl Reverso. Dialogue: 0,0:02:14.44,0:02:18.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Or ATC which is this Black Diamond ATC. Dialogue: 0,0:02:18.48,0:02:21.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,While Mammut calls this \NAlpine Belaying Device. Simple. Dialogue: 0,0:02:21.46,0:02:25.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So with tubes the more\NI move my brake hand down Dialogue: 0,0:02:25.45,0:02:30.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the more it squeezes the rope between \Nthe carabiner and belaying device. Dialogue: 0,0:02:30.01,0:02:34.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And also tubes have \Na little groove in front of them. Dialogue: 0,0:02:34.01,0:02:37.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Which even further pinches on the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:02:37.09,0:02:40.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Plus as I pull down on the rope\Nit tilts the device Dialogue: 0,0:02:40.57,0:02:43.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which creates extra angles \Nand extra friction. Dialogue: 0,0:02:43.84,0:02:46.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So as we saw in my previous experiment Dialogue: 0,0:02:46.38,0:02:50.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if my hand is at the \Nlevel of the belaying device or higher Dialogue: 0,0:02:50.96,0:02:53.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the device creates very little friction. Dialogue: 0,0:02:53.12,0:02:55.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So if the climber would fall Dialogue: 0,0:02:55.26,0:02:58.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,while my hand is \Nin this position or higher Dialogue: 0,0:02:58.80,0:03:01.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there is a high chance \Nthat my hand would simply Dialogue: 0,0:03:01.36,0:03:04.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,get sucked into the belaying device. Dialogue: 0,0:03:04.96,0:03:08.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I got my hand pinched... Dialogue: 0,0:03:19.28,0:03:21.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then maybe i will hurt my hand and Dialogue: 0,0:03:21.36,0:03:23.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,let go of the rope Dialogue: 0,0:03:23.92,0:03:25.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so if you want to see how my hand is Dialogue: 0,0:03:25.92,0:03:28.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,getting sucked into belaying device i Dialogue: 0,0:03:28.00,0:03:30.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,already made a video about that also Dialogue: 0,0:03:30.00,0:03:32.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,worth mentioning is that rope thickness Dialogue: 0,0:03:32.08,0:03:34.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or diameter has a huge effect on how Dialogue: 0,0:03:34.80,0:03:37.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,easily the rope will go through belaying Dialogue: 0,0:03:37.04,0:03:39.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device and every belaying device has a Dialogue: 0,0:03:39.52,0:03:42.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,recommended range of rope thicknesses Dialogue: 0,0:03:42.24,0:03:44.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which you can find somewhere in the Dialogue: 0,0:03:44.00,0:03:46.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,manuals or sometimes on the device Dialogue: 0,0:03:46.08,0:03:49.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,itself and this brings us to advantages Dialogue: 0,0:03:49.12,0:03:51.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of tubular style devices first of all Dialogue: 0,0:03:51.76,0:03:54.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,they work better with wider range of Dialogue: 0,0:03:54.16,0:03:57.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope diameters all the way from super Dialogue: 0,0:03:57.36,0:04:00.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,thick gym ropes to ultra skinny twin Dialogue: 0,0:04:00.56,0:04:02.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ropes on contrast if you would take a Dialogue: 0,0:04:02.80,0:04:05.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,grigri it says that it's optimized to Dialogue: 0,0:04:05.76,0:04:08.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,work from 8.9 to 10 and a half Dialogue: 0,0:04:08.56,0:04:11.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,millimeters ropes but from my experience Dialogue: 0,0:04:11.68,0:04:14.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,anything from 10 millimeters and above Dialogue: 0,0:04:14.32,0:04:16.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,doesn't work that well anymore yeah Dialogue: 0,0:04:16.32,0:04:18.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there is this older grigri which works Dialogue: 0,0:04:18.56,0:04:20.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,better with thicker ropes but that one Dialogue: 0,0:04:20.80,0:04:22.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,doesn't work well with thin ropes Dialogue: 0,0:04:22.80,0:04:25.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,next tubes are super lightweight and Dialogue: 0,0:04:25.92,0:04:27.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,they allow you to believe with two ropes Dialogue: 0,0:04:27.84,0:04:29.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,either double ropes or twin ropes and if Dialogue: 0,0:04:29.92,0:04:31.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you don't know what's a double or twin Dialogue: 0,0:04:31.44,0:04:34.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope you should watch my master class on Dialogue: 0,0:04:34.16,0:04:36.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the ropes also with tubes you can make a Dialogue: 0,0:04:36.80,0:04:39.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,soft catch without moving yourself by Dialogue: 0,0:04:39.52,0:04:41.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,allowing the rope to slip through the Dialogue: 0,0:04:41.60,0:04:42.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device Dialogue: 0,0:04:42.72,0:04:46.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and in general tubes don't catch as hard Dialogue: 0,0:04:46.72,0:04:48.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because there is always a little bit of Dialogue: 0,0:04:48.64,0:04:51.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slippage which reduces the peak forces Dialogue: 0,0:04:51.84,0:04:54.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which might be very beneficial for tread Dialogue: 0,0:04:54.24,0:04:56.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climbers since it reduces the chance Dialogue: 0,0:04:56.56,0:04:58.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that the pieces of the gear will fall Dialogue: 0,0:04:58.64,0:05:01.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,out and finally tubes have this loop at Dialogue: 0,0:05:01.76,0:05:04.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the top and that allows you to set this Dialogue: 0,0:05:04.08,0:05:06.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device in a guide mode in which you can Dialogue: 0,0:05:06.24,0:05:09.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,even delay two following climbers coming Dialogue: 0,0:05:09.20,0:05:13.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,up on top rope simultaneously Dialogue: 0,0:05:13.44,0:05:15.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,simon Dialogue: 0,0:05:15.00,0:05:17.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,simultaneously and all of that are the Dialogue: 0,0:05:17.92,0:05:20.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,reasons why tubes are still very Dialogue: 0,0:05:20.32,0:05:23.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,commonly used in traditional or alpine Dialogue: 0,0:05:23.04,0:05:26.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or multi-pitch scenarios however none of Dialogue: 0,0:05:26.24,0:05:28.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that is really useful if you're just Dialogue: 0,0:05:28.16,0:05:30.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,doing single pitch sport climbing and Dialogue: 0,0:05:30.48,0:05:32.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the biggest disadvantage of tubes is of Dialogue: 0,0:05:32.64,0:05:34.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,course that they don't lock meaning if Dialogue: 0,0:05:34.88,0:05:37.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you would let go the rope Dialogue: 0,0:05:37.60,0:05:39.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which by the way brings us to the main Dialogue: 0,0:05:39.92,0:05:42.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,role of bling if you are in need of Dialogue: 0,0:05:42.32,0:05:43.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,number two Dialogue: 0,0:05:43.52,0:05:46.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you have a choice to poop your pants Dialogue: 0,0:05:46.48,0:05:50.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or to let go the brake side of the rope Dialogue: 0,0:05:50.40,0:05:53.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you poop your pants meaning in no Dialogue: 0,0:05:53.04,0:05:55.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,circumstances you're allowed to lose Dialogue: 0,0:05:55.20,0:05:57.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,control of the brake side of the rope Dialogue: 0,0:05:57.44,0:05:59.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and that's by the way also equally true Dialogue: 0,0:05:59.60,0:06:02.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for assisted building devices but we are Dialogue: 0,0:06:02.08,0:06:04.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,gonna talk next so assisted devices have Dialogue: 0,0:06:04.96,0:06:07.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,an ability to lock in case the climber Dialogue: 0,0:06:07.84,0:06:10.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,falls which obviously adds a lot of Dialogue: 0,0:06:10.72,0:06:13.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,safety for example if you would knock a Dialogue: 0,0:06:13.12,0:06:15.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rock while you're climbing and that rock Dialogue: 0,0:06:15.44,0:06:19.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,would fall on your belayer's head Dialogue: 0,0:06:19.04,0:06:21.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and that's why we wear a helmet so first Dialogue: 0,0:06:21.04,0:06:23.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of all your player would really like to Dialogue: 0,0:06:23.28,0:06:25.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,have a helmet but you as a climber would Dialogue: 0,0:06:25.68,0:06:28.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,really love it there would be one of Dialogue: 0,0:06:28.08,0:06:30.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,these assisted devices down there and in Dialogue: 0,0:06:30.64,0:06:33.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fact my own skin was once saved by this Dialogue: 0,0:06:33.60,0:06:36.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,guy when i did a little fall and my blur Dialogue: 0,0:06:36.24,0:06:38.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,did not notice that there was a rock Dialogue: 0,0:06:38.40,0:06:41.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,next to her leg and while she was flying Dialogue: 0,0:06:41.12,0:06:44.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,forward her leg got stuck and she spun Dialogue: 0,0:06:44.32,0:06:47.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,around and hid her back to the wall and Dialogue: 0,0:06:47.52,0:06:50.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,let both of the hands go so Dialogue: 0,0:06:50.32,0:06:52.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this guy is basically a reason why i'm Dialogue: 0,0:06:52.48,0:06:54.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,still here Dialogue: 0,0:06:54.40,0:06:56.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and making these videos now super Dialogue: 0,0:06:56.80,0:06:59.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,important that number two rule Dialogue: 0,0:06:59.28,0:07:02.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is also applicable for these guys after Dialogue: 0,0:07:02.16,0:07:04.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,all they are called assisted so don't Dialogue: 0,0:07:04.88,0:07:07.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,treat them as fully automatic because Dialogue: 0,0:07:07.52,0:07:10.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there are cases where they will not lock Dialogue: 0,0:07:10.88,0:07:13.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,apart from safety this locking is also Dialogue: 0,0:07:13.76,0:07:16.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,super useful in long delays if your Dialogue: 0,0:07:16.24,0:07:18.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climber is hanging on the rope a lot and Dialogue: 0,0:07:18.80,0:07:21.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,projecting some hard moves so if we Dialogue: 0,0:07:21.20,0:07:23.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,compare this to the tube even in the Dialogue: 0,0:07:23.28,0:07:26.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,most mechanically advantaged position Dialogue: 0,0:07:26.72,0:07:29.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you will still need to hold on the rope Dialogue: 0,0:07:29.28,0:07:32.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and in very long blades this will get Dialogue: 0,0:07:32.00,0:07:34.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tiring while with assisted devices it's Dialogue: 0,0:07:34.40,0:07:36.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pretty chill you are literally just Dialogue: 0,0:07:36.56,0:07:39.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sitting in your harness okay so the Dialogue: 0,0:07:39.60,0:07:42.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,first group of assisted belaying devices Dialogue: 0,0:07:42.88,0:07:45.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is called assisted tubers that's because Dialogue: 0,0:07:45.84,0:07:46.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,they Dialogue: 0,0:07:46.72,0:07:47.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,look Dialogue: 0,0:07:47.52,0:07:50.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like tubes and they work similarly to Dialogue: 0,0:07:50.40,0:07:52.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,regular tubes where we squeeze the rope Dialogue: 0,0:07:52.96,0:07:55.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,between the carabiner and the device Dialogue: 0,0:07:55.76,0:07:58.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,except that they have a shape that Dialogue: 0,0:07:58.08,0:08:00.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,shifts the carabiner in position where Dialogue: 0,0:08:00.96,0:08:03.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it squeezes on the rope so hard that it Dialogue: 0,0:08:03.84,0:08:06.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,completely locks it off a little Dialogue: 0,0:08:06.24,0:08:09.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,disadvantage of assisted tubes is that Dialogue: 0,0:08:09.20,0:08:12.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,once in locked position you cannot Dialogue: 0,0:08:12.00,0:08:14.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,quickly feed slack to the climber you Dialogue: 0,0:08:14.32,0:08:16.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,need a special action to unlock the Dialogue: 0,0:08:16.72,0:08:19.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device before you can feed the rope for Dialogue: 0,0:08:19.76,0:08:23.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,example with click up it even clicks and Dialogue: 0,0:08:23.44,0:08:26.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now i cannot do anything i literally Dialogue: 0,0:08:26.08,0:08:28.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,need to unclick it and now i can Dialogue: 0,0:08:28.48,0:08:31.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,continue below now one really important Dialogue: 0,0:08:31.04,0:08:33.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,thing that not many know about assisted Dialogue: 0,0:08:33.12,0:08:35.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tubers that they suffer from the same Dialogue: 0,0:08:35.84,0:08:39.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,problem as regular tubes meaning that if Dialogue: 0,0:08:39.52,0:08:42.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your hand is in up position Dialogue: 0,0:08:42.32,0:08:44.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the device will not lock as you can see Dialogue: 0,0:08:44.88,0:08:47.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's not locking and if the climber Dialogue: 0,0:08:47.12,0:08:48.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,would take a fall Dialogue: 0,0:08:48.72,0:08:51.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the rope would just slide from my hand Dialogue: 0,0:08:51.04,0:08:54.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and burn it oh it's already burning Dialogue: 0,0:08:54.16,0:08:56.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,however unlike regular tubes where you Dialogue: 0,0:08:56.88,0:08:59.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,can get your hands sucked even at very Dialogue: 0,0:08:59.04,0:09:01.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,big angles most assisted tubers will Dialogue: 0,0:09:01.92,0:09:04.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,only fail at the angles that are very Dialogue: 0,0:09:04.80,0:09:07.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,extremely high up and some actually Dialogue: 0,0:09:07.20,0:09:09.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,don't fail at all i'm actually gonna Dialogue: 0,0:09:09.52,0:09:11.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,make a separate video where i was Dialogue: 0,0:09:11.52,0:09:13.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,experimenting at which angles which Dialogue: 0,0:09:13.84,0:09:16.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,devices lock so Dialogue: 0,0:09:16.24,0:09:18.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stay tuned for that i can't put Dialogue: 0,0:09:18.40,0:09:20.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,everything into one video because i need Dialogue: 0,0:09:20.40,0:09:23.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you to subscribe Dialogue: 0,0:09:23.04,0:09:25.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but independently of which belaying Dialogue: 0,0:09:25.12,0:09:27.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device you're using just develop a habit Dialogue: 0,0:09:27.52,0:09:30.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of keeping your bray hand down also good Dialogue: 0,0:09:30.16,0:09:32.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to know for people who climb with two Dialogue: 0,0:09:32.24,0:09:34.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ropes is that there are assisted tubers Dialogue: 0,0:09:34.80,0:09:36.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that work with two ropes in case you go Dialogue: 0,0:09:36.96,0:09:38.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on a multi-pitch and you want extra Dialogue: 0,0:09:38.88,0:09:41.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,safety you have some options all right Dialogue: 0,0:09:41.84,0:09:44.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,let's move on to cam assisted devices Dialogue: 0,0:09:44.32,0:09:46.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i'm sure everybody knows grigri but Dialogue: 0,0:09:46.72,0:09:49.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there are more devices like trango virgo Dialogue: 0,0:09:49.36,0:09:51.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and birdie and others and the way they Dialogue: 0,0:09:51.84,0:09:53.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,work is that they have a camming Dialogue: 0,0:09:53.52,0:09:55.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,mechanism inside which pinches on the Dialogue: 0,0:09:55.84,0:09:58.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope now in the case of grigri the cam Dialogue: 0,0:09:58.96,0:10:01.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is spring-loaded meaning that as soon as Dialogue: 0,0:10:01.68,0:10:03.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there is no more load on the climber's Dialogue: 0,0:10:03.76,0:10:06.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,end of the rope the cam will disengage Dialogue: 0,0:10:06.40,0:10:09.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you can delay normally while in the Dialogue: 0,0:10:09.20,0:10:11.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,case of virgo it doesn't have a spring Dialogue: 0,0:10:11.76,0:10:14.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you need to position the device in a Dialogue: 0,0:10:14.48,0:10:15.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,certain way Dialogue: 0,0:10:15.92,0:10:19.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to be able to feed the slag all right Dialogue: 0,0:10:19.04,0:10:21.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,back to grigri if you press on grigri Dialogue: 0,0:10:21.52,0:10:25.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,scam but you ignore the rule number two Dialogue: 0,0:10:25.20,0:10:26.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you don't hold Dialogue: 0,0:10:26.88,0:10:29.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the break side of the rope this can Dialogue: 0,0:10:29.28,0:10:32.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,happen Dialogue: 0,0:10:37.92,0:10:40.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,also if you ignore rule number two Dialogue: 0,0:10:40.88,0:10:42.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and your grigri gets trapped in the Dialogue: 0,0:10:42.80,0:10:43.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,first Dialogue: 0,0:10:43.68,0:10:45.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,piece of gear Dialogue: 0,0:10:45.20,0:10:47.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this can happen Dialogue: 0,0:10:51.36,0:10:53.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,many of you asked Dialogue: 0,0:10:53.28,0:10:55.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if this problem of trapping in the first Dialogue: 0,0:10:55.68,0:10:59.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bolt where it disengages the cam is also Dialogue: 0,0:10:59.36,0:11:02.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,applicable for assisted tubers so with Dialogue: 0,0:11:02.88,0:11:05.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,most assisted devices the answer is Dialogue: 0,0:11:05.68,0:11:07.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,unlikely Dialogue: 0,0:11:07.12,0:11:09.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,since there is no cam that i could press Dialogue: 0,0:11:09.92,0:11:12.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to disengage this locking Dialogue: 0,0:11:12.56,0:11:16.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,only if i would press on this end Dialogue: 0,0:11:16.08,0:11:18.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it kind of slips a bit but still Dialogue: 0,0:11:18.80,0:11:21.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stays locked Dialogue: 0,0:11:25.92,0:11:26.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this Dialogue: 0,0:11:26.96,0:11:29.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,click Dialogue: 0,0:11:29.12,0:11:31.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,doesn't even lock if i don't hold the Dialogue: 0,0:11:31.12,0:11:33.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope Dialogue: 0,0:11:33.04,0:11:37.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,amazing number two rule all the rope Dialogue: 0,0:11:38.96,0:11:40.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah Dialogue: 0,0:11:40.48,0:11:44.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there's no way i can unlock this Dialogue: 0,0:11:44.56,0:11:47.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in this manner Dialogue: 0,0:11:47.68,0:11:50.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so no assisted tubers don't have this Dialogue: 0,0:11:50.40,0:11:53.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,risk now this is a little future me Dialogue: 0,0:11:53.04,0:11:55.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,after i was editing this part that you Dialogue: 0,0:11:55.44,0:11:58.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,just seen and i saw this i realized that Dialogue: 0,0:11:58.48,0:12:01.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i was using a wrong carabiner turns out Dialogue: 0,0:12:01.76,0:12:04.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,click ups need their own specific Dialogue: 0,0:12:04.48,0:12:06.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,carabiners and that's a reason why you Dialogue: 0,0:12:06.64,0:12:09.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,should read the manual so Dialogue: 0,0:12:09.04,0:12:11.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's the carabiner you should use for Dialogue: 0,0:12:11.76,0:12:15.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a click up let's see if it locks Dialogue: 0,0:12:16.40,0:12:19.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,no difference Dialogue: 0,0:12:19.76,0:12:22.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so number two rule Dialogue: 0,0:12:22.24,0:12:24.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and read the manual because some of the Dialogue: 0,0:12:24.88,0:12:27.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,assisted delaying devices require you a Dialogue: 0,0:12:27.04,0:12:29.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,specific belaying carabiner i don't know Dialogue: 0,0:12:29.28,0:12:31.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if it's just marketing or the shape of Dialogue: 0,0:12:31.44,0:12:34.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the carabiner is slightly different just Dialogue: 0,0:12:34.16,0:12:36.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,use what the manufacturers recommend and Dialogue: 0,0:12:36.88,0:12:39.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,finally there is this guy it's a rivo Dialogue: 0,0:12:39.52,0:12:41.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from wild country Dialogue: 0,0:12:41.12,0:12:44.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's an inertia based mechanism which Dialogue: 0,0:12:44.24,0:12:46.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will lock once the climber starts Dialogue: 0,0:12:46.56,0:12:48.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,falling faster than four meters per Dialogue: 0,0:12:48.80,0:12:51.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,second so if i pull slowly it doesn't Dialogue: 0,0:12:51.36,0:12:54.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,lock i need to pull really fast in order Dialogue: 0,0:12:54.88,0:12:56.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for it to lock Dialogue: 0,0:12:56.32,0:12:58.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so my goal of this video is not to Dialogue: 0,0:12:58.32,0:13:00.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,compare all of the delaying devices on Dialogue: 0,0:13:00.48,0:13:02.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the market and tell you which one to buy Dialogue: 0,0:13:02.64,0:13:05.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sorry for that every device have its own Dialogue: 0,0:13:05.76,0:13:09.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pros and cons haters and lovers full Dialogue: 0,0:13:09.20,0:13:11.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,internet of that however if you would Dialogue: 0,0:13:11.28,0:13:13.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,want such comparison let me know in the Dialogue: 0,0:13:13.76,0:13:15.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,comments and maybe i will make a Dialogue: 0,0:13:15.52,0:13:18.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,separate video on that okay now i have a Dialogue: 0,0:13:18.32,0:13:20.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tip for you that will make your life a Dialogue: 0,0:13:20.48,0:13:22.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,little bit easier and maybe will even Dialogue: 0,0:13:22.72,0:13:25.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,save your ass on a multi-pitch one day Dialogue: 0,0:13:25.04,0:13:26.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,humans Dialogue: 0,0:13:26.16,0:13:29.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we have two hands normally and handling Dialogue: 0,0:13:29.28,0:13:32.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,more than two objects in two hands Dialogue: 0,0:13:32.40,0:13:34.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is not ideal what i often see that Dialogue: 0,0:13:34.56,0:13:36.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,people take their playing device their Dialogue: 0,0:13:36.24,0:13:38.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,carabiner the rope that's already three Dialogue: 0,0:13:38.80,0:13:40.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,objects by the way and they try to Dialogue: 0,0:13:40.80,0:13:42.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,connect everything Dialogue: 0,0:13:42.64,0:13:44.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in space Dialogue: 0,0:13:44.96,0:13:48.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like so Dialogue: 0,0:13:49.44,0:13:52.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ready to delay so doing this will Dialogue: 0,0:13:52.32,0:13:54.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,greatly increase the chance that one day Dialogue: 0,0:13:54.16,0:13:55.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you will drop something you will be Dialogue: 0,0:13:55.52,0:13:57.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,trying to connect something and then Dialogue: 0,0:13:57.28,0:13:59.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,suddenly whoops Dialogue: 0,0:13:59.36,0:14:01.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your billing device flies down if you're Dialogue: 0,0:14:01.44,0:14:03.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not on a multi-pitch if you're standing Dialogue: 0,0:14:03.04,0:14:05.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the ground that's not a big deal Dialogue: 0,0:14:05.28,0:14:07.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,however if you drop your billing device Dialogue: 0,0:14:07.68,0:14:09.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on a multi-pitch Dialogue: 0,0:14:09.20,0:14:11.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you are in big trouble so this is what Dialogue: 0,0:14:11.44,0:14:13.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you do to avoid that normally your blade Dialogue: 0,0:14:13.76,0:14:15.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device will live with your carabiner Dialogue: 0,0:14:15.92,0:14:17.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,somewhere on the harness Dialogue: 0,0:14:17.76,0:14:20.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so step one you take Dialogue: 0,0:14:20.32,0:14:23.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,both of them together as one unit so i'm Dialogue: 0,0:14:23.36,0:14:25.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,carrying only one unit and you Dialogue: 0,0:14:25.36,0:14:27.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,immediately connect it to the laying Dialogue: 0,0:14:27.44,0:14:28.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,loop Dialogue: 0,0:14:28.80,0:14:31.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so you cannot drop anything right now Dialogue: 0,0:14:31.28,0:14:33.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,everything is safe step two you take a Dialogue: 0,0:14:33.60,0:14:36.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bite of rope and you insert into your Dialogue: 0,0:14:36.00,0:14:37.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,blank device Dialogue: 0,0:14:37.60,0:14:39.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,keep in mind of the orientation of the Dialogue: 0,0:14:39.76,0:14:42.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope which end has to go to the climber Dialogue: 0,0:14:42.32,0:14:44.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which end is your break hand if you're Dialogue: 0,0:14:44.80,0:14:48.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not sure every blank device has an image Dialogue: 0,0:14:48.08,0:14:50.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the side of it which will remind you Dialogue: 0,0:14:50.56,0:14:52.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that and next Dialogue: 0,0:14:52.32,0:14:55.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,open your carabiner and hook your rope Dialogue: 0,0:14:55.04,0:14:56.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,together Dialogue: 0,0:14:56.40,0:14:58.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with the belaying device Dialogue: 0,0:14:58.48,0:15:01.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so at no point there was a chance of for Dialogue: 0,0:15:01.44,0:15:03.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,me to drop anything and once you're done Dialogue: 0,0:15:03.44,0:15:05.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,playing you simply reverse the process Dialogue: 0,0:15:05.60,0:15:08.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where you open the carabiner you unhook Dialogue: 0,0:15:08.24,0:15:10.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the rope but you hook the belaying Dialogue: 0,0:15:10.24,0:15:12.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device and then you simply can just pull Dialogue: 0,0:15:12.48,0:15:14.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,out the rope and your belaying device Dialogue: 0,0:15:14.24,0:15:16.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stays on your harness with the carabiner Dialogue: 0,0:15:16.48,0:15:18.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you want to put it somewhere else you Dialogue: 0,0:15:18.00,0:15:19.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,put it somewhere else and the same works Dialogue: 0,0:15:19.92,0:15:22.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with assisted tubers so step one connect Dialogue: 0,0:15:22.80,0:15:23.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your Dialogue: 0,0:15:23.92,0:15:26.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,blank device to your harness take a bite Dialogue: 0,0:15:26.64,0:15:29.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of rope put that bite of rope into the Dialogue: 0,0:15:29.28,0:15:31.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,laying device Dialogue: 0,0:15:31.52,0:15:34.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,open the carabiner and hook the rope and Dialogue: 0,0:15:34.24,0:15:36.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,playing device together Dialogue: 0,0:15:36.40,0:15:38.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now in case of the grigri it's slightly Dialogue: 0,0:15:38.72,0:15:42.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,different so as always step one clip Dialogue: 0,0:15:42.00,0:15:44.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your blank device to your belay loop so Dialogue: 0,0:15:44.16,0:15:46.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you cannot drop anything now if you're Dialogue: 0,0:15:46.08,0:15:48.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not on a multi-pitch and dropping your Dialogue: 0,0:15:48.00,0:15:50.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,grigri is not a big deal you simply take Dialogue: 0,0:15:50.00,0:15:53.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,off your grigri open it in this cool way Dialogue: 0,0:15:53.20,0:15:56.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,insert the rope and flip it back simple Dialogue: 0,0:15:56.72,0:15:59.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now if you are on a multi-pitch Dialogue: 0,0:15:59.76,0:16:02.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there is a technique so this is what you Dialogue: 0,0:16:02.00,0:16:05.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,do you open your carabiner Dialogue: 0,0:16:05.68,0:16:08.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and hook only half of the degree Dialogue: 0,0:16:08.40,0:16:10.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,together then you can open the grigri Dialogue: 0,0:16:10.80,0:16:12.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and it's connected to your carabiner you Dialogue: 0,0:16:12.88,0:16:15.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,cannot drop it you insert the rope you Dialogue: 0,0:16:15.84,0:16:17.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,close it Dialogue: 0,0:16:17.36,0:16:19.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then you open your carabiner again Dialogue: 0,0:16:19.60,0:16:21.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and hook the grigri back Dialogue: 0,0:16:21.76,0:16:24.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so this is as safe as you can do with Dialogue: 0,0:16:24.00,0:16:26.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the grigri on a multi page and obviously Dialogue: 0,0:16:26.80,0:16:28.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,once you're done it's just simply Dialogue: 0,0:16:28.48,0:16:31.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,reversing the process of Dialogue: 0,0:16:31.76,0:16:34.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,doing Dialogue: 0,0:16:34.84,0:16:37.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this and doing that Dialogue: 0,0:16:37.52,0:16:39.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay so i hope that by now i gave you Dialogue: 0,0:16:39.92,0:16:42.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,enough examples how not to use belaying Dialogue: 0,0:16:42.64,0:16:45.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,devices and now i'm gonna show you Dialogue: 0,0:16:45.20,0:16:48.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,proper techniques the good part is that Dialogue: 0,0:16:48.08,0:16:50.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,no matter what blank device you use good Dialogue: 0,0:16:50.80,0:16:53.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,belaying techniques don't change there Dialogue: 0,0:16:53.04,0:16:54.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are slight differences that i'm gonna Dialogue: 0,0:16:54.56,0:16:57.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,mention but for majority it's the same Dialogue: 0,0:16:57.44,0:16:58.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,all right Dialogue: 0,0:16:58.32,0:17:01.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so i hope that by now number two rule is Dialogue: 0,0:17:01.12,0:17:03.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,strongly embedded into you however if Dialogue: 0,0:17:03.92,0:17:06.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for some reason you really need to go Dialogue: 0,0:17:06.08,0:17:09.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hands-free you can tie a backup knot Dialogue: 0,0:17:09.52,0:17:12.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,at your brake and like so Dialogue: 0,0:17:12.40,0:17:14.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and this is totally fine Dialogue: 0,0:17:14.64,0:17:16.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in case something happens and the rope Dialogue: 0,0:17:16.80,0:17:18.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,would slip all the way Dialogue: 0,0:17:18.40,0:17:20.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the grigri will lock Dialogue: 0,0:17:20.40,0:17:22.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,however in the case of tube it's Dialogue: 0,0:17:22.24,0:17:24.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slightly different if you would just Dialogue: 0,0:17:24.08,0:17:25.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,simply Dialogue: 0,0:17:25.12,0:17:27.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tie a knot here Dialogue: 0,0:17:27.04,0:17:29.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the climber would fall there is a Dialogue: 0,0:17:29.12,0:17:31.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,chance that this knot will get Dialogue: 0,0:17:31.44,0:17:33.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,jammed in your blank device so hard that Dialogue: 0,0:17:33.84,0:17:37.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you will have trouble to Dialogue: 0,0:17:37.04,0:17:39.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,unjam it let's use a slightly different Dialogue: 0,0:17:39.12,0:17:41.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,carabiner so it's easier for you to see Dialogue: 0,0:17:41.20,0:17:43.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what's happening so Dialogue: 0,0:17:43.04,0:17:45.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in the case of tube you take a bite of Dialogue: 0,0:17:45.36,0:17:47.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope and then you take another bite of Dialogue: 0,0:17:47.60,0:17:50.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope and put through the first one Dialogue: 0,0:17:50.56,0:17:52.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you make it tight Dialogue: 0,0:17:52.64,0:17:54.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and make sure that this loop is long Dialogue: 0,0:17:54.24,0:17:55.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,enough Dialogue: 0,0:17:55.84,0:17:56.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like so Dialogue: 0,0:17:56.96,0:18:00.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this will hold but this is not enough to Dialogue: 0,0:18:00.00,0:18:01.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,make it Dialogue: 0,0:18:01.04,0:18:03.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,extra safe you tie in Dialogue: 0,0:18:03.92,0:18:06.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,back up knot here so now i can go Dialogue: 0,0:18:06.48,0:18:08.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hands-free and in case my climber takes Dialogue: 0,0:18:08.72,0:18:11.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a fall this will hold him and if i want Dialogue: 0,0:18:11.36,0:18:13.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to release all of that Dialogue: 0,0:18:13.20,0:18:15.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hold the brake side of the rope Dialogue: 0,0:18:15.84,0:18:17.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and tie the top Dialogue: 0,0:18:17.92,0:18:19.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,back up knot Dialogue: 0,0:18:19.20,0:18:22.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and start pulling the rope Dialogue: 0,0:18:22.80,0:18:25.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,until you have a little loop left Dialogue: 0,0:18:25.44,0:18:27.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,at this point inform your climber that Dialogue: 0,0:18:27.44,0:18:28.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,he might Dialogue: 0,0:18:28.40,0:18:30.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,feel a little bump Dialogue: 0,0:18:30.16,0:18:31.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and tug Dialogue: 0,0:18:31.28,0:18:32.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fast Dialogue: 0,0:18:32.48,0:18:34.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like so if you do this correctly your Dialogue: 0,0:18:34.40,0:18:36.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climber will not go down at all now if Dialogue: 0,0:18:36.64,0:18:40.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you're not familiar with slip slap slap Dialogue: 0,0:18:40.56,0:18:41.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this Dialogue: 0,0:18:41.44,0:18:42.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,technique Dialogue: 0,0:18:42.80,0:18:45.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,good you can safely ignore my next Dialogue: 0,0:18:45.20,0:18:47.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sentence however if you're using that Dialogue: 0,0:18:47.76,0:18:50.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,technique i would strongly advise you to Dialogue: 0,0:18:50.32,0:18:52.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,reconsider because in the case of the Dialogue: 0,0:18:52.72,0:18:54.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fall your hand might get sucked into the Dialogue: 0,0:18:54.88,0:18:57.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bellying device faster than you might Dialogue: 0,0:18:57.36,0:18:59.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,think so as a good rule of thumb keep Dialogue: 0,0:18:59.60,0:19:02.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your break hand always down and do any Dialogue: 0,0:19:02.80,0:19:06.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand swapping or sliding there so now a Dialogue: 0,0:19:06.88,0:19:08.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,little disclaimer i'm gonna show you Dialogue: 0,0:19:08.64,0:19:10.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,three different techniques of taking Dialogue: 0,0:19:10.64,0:19:13.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slack and depending on where you are on Dialogue: 0,0:19:13.44,0:19:16.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the planet some of them might be not Dialogue: 0,0:19:16.40,0:19:19.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,considered as acceptable so stick with Dialogue: 0,0:19:19.20,0:19:21.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,me i'm gonna explain because i went Dialogue: 0,0:19:21.52,0:19:23.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,really deep in this rabbit hole so all Dialogue: 0,0:19:23.84,0:19:25.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the techniques start the same your left Dialogue: 0,0:19:25.84,0:19:28.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand reaches up and pulls down on the Dialogue: 0,0:19:28.08,0:19:30.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope while at the same time your break Dialogue: 0,0:19:30.32,0:19:33.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand pushes forward and locks it down Dialogue: 0,0:19:33.28,0:19:35.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and now at this point you need to bring Dialogue: 0,0:19:35.36,0:19:36.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your right hand Dialogue: 0,0:19:36.80,0:19:38.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,up the rope and there are three Dialogue: 0,0:19:38.96,0:19:41.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,different ways to do so the first one Dialogue: 0,0:19:41.60,0:19:43.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's more popular in europe and it's Dialogue: 0,0:19:43.44,0:19:46.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,called hand over hand or v to the knee Dialogue: 0,0:19:46.64,0:19:50.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so you simply take your left hand and go Dialogue: 0,0:19:50.32,0:19:51.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,over Dialogue: 0,0:19:51.36,0:19:53.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your right hand and then right hand goes Dialogue: 0,0:19:53.76,0:19:55.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,over your left hand that's why it's Dialogue: 0,0:19:55.36,0:19:58.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,called hand over hand so you take Dialogue: 0,0:19:58.80,0:20:01.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand over hand you take Dialogue: 0,0:20:01.76,0:20:04.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand over hand so i find myself using Dialogue: 0,0:20:04.88,0:20:06.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this technique when the climber wants me Dialogue: 0,0:20:06.80,0:20:09.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to take really hard as he's moving up Dialogue: 0,0:20:09.36,0:20:12.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the rope because you're always pulling Dialogue: 0,0:20:12.08,0:20:15.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,down on the rope you can Dialogue: 0,0:20:15.04,0:20:17.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it kind of feels like climbing up the Dialogue: 0,0:20:17.92,0:20:19.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope Dialogue: 0,0:20:19.04,0:20:21.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,very comfortable Dialogue: 0,0:20:22.56,0:20:24.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so the problem with this technique is Dialogue: 0,0:20:24.40,0:20:26.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that when people get really good and can Dialogue: 0,0:20:26.56,0:20:29.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,do it really fast Dialogue: 0,0:20:29.20,0:20:32.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,they start letting go the brig and Dialogue: 0,0:20:32.32,0:20:34.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,before the left hand goes into the Dialogue: 0,0:20:34.80,0:20:37.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,locking position so we do this we take Dialogue: 0,0:20:37.76,0:20:40.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this let go already Dialogue: 0,0:20:40.40,0:20:43.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then go into locking position if the Dialogue: 0,0:20:43.04,0:20:45.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climber would fall in the moment where Dialogue: 0,0:20:45.68,0:20:48.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you let go this and you don't lock the Dialogue: 0,0:20:48.96,0:20:51.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand down you probably know what would Dialogue: 0,0:20:51.76,0:20:54.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,happen so obviously a simple solution Dialogue: 0,0:20:54.24,0:20:55.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,lock Dialogue: 0,0:20:55.04,0:20:57.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then in the locking position do any Dialogue: 0,0:20:57.52,0:20:59.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand swapping and another thing you need Dialogue: 0,0:20:59.52,0:21:01.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to be aware of that sometimes if the Dialogue: 0,0:21:01.92,0:21:04.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climber drops a bunch of slack your Dialogue: 0,0:21:04.08,0:21:06.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,blank device falls down and here you Dialogue: 0,0:21:06.40,0:21:09.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,need to be careful to not take your left Dialogue: 0,0:21:09.44,0:21:12.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand over the belaying device otherwise Dialogue: 0,0:21:12.56,0:21:15.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you do so and the climber falls your Dialogue: 0,0:21:15.68,0:21:16.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand Dialogue: 0,0:21:16.48,0:21:19.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,gets into this awkward position so Dialogue: 0,0:21:19.20,0:21:21.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,instead you reach under your blank Dialogue: 0,0:21:21.28,0:21:23.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device and you grab the rope and now if Dialogue: 0,0:21:23.76,0:21:26.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the climber would fall everything would Dialogue: 0,0:21:26.08,0:21:28.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,be fine all right next technique is Dialogue: 0,0:21:28.08,0:21:30.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,called p-bus which is more commonly used Dialogue: 0,0:21:30.48,0:21:33.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in america which means pull break so Dialogue: 0,0:21:33.84,0:21:36.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,basically the same stuff as before Dialogue: 0,0:21:36.48,0:21:40.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but now instead of taking over the hand Dialogue: 0,0:21:40.08,0:21:41.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you take under Dialogue: 0,0:21:41.92,0:21:46.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and slide so pull brake under slide Dialogue: 0,0:21:46.48,0:21:47.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pull brake Dialogue: 0,0:21:47.92,0:21:50.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,under slide so the benefit of this Dialogue: 0,0:21:50.48,0:21:52.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,technique is your strong hand never Dialogue: 0,0:21:52.56,0:21:54.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,leaves the rope a little drawback of Dialogue: 0,0:21:54.96,0:21:57.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this technique is when you have weight Dialogue: 0,0:21:57.36,0:21:59.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the rope and you're trying to take Dialogue: 0,0:21:59.28,0:22:00.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hard Dialogue: 0,0:22:00.24,0:22:02.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now sliding up this hand Dialogue: 0,0:22:02.88,0:22:06.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is not as comfortable as in Dialogue: 0,0:22:06.40,0:22:09.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand over hand technique Dialogue: 0,0:22:09.52,0:22:12.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so at some point as you will be Dialogue: 0,0:22:12.00,0:22:14.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,practicing your p-bus technique you will Dialogue: 0,0:22:14.80,0:22:17.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,realize that you don't actually need to Dialogue: 0,0:22:17.52,0:22:19.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bring your left hand down there in order Dialogue: 0,0:22:19.92,0:22:23.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to bring your big hand up you can simply Dialogue: 0,0:22:23.12,0:22:24.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slide it up Dialogue: 0,0:22:24.80,0:22:27.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and this is a third technique which is Dialogue: 0,0:22:27.04,0:22:29.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,called a tunnel technique and since your Dialogue: 0,0:22:29.52,0:22:32.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,left hand never leaves this rope Dialogue: 0,0:22:32.32,0:22:34.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's the most efficient technique Dialogue: 0,0:22:34.08,0:22:36.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because you can always switch between Dialogue: 0,0:22:36.32,0:22:39.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,taking slack and giving slack instantly Dialogue: 0,0:22:39.60,0:22:42.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so no matter in which moment of taking Dialogue: 0,0:22:42.56,0:22:45.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slack i am i can always give slack Dialogue: 0,0:22:45.36,0:22:47.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and contrary any other technique where Dialogue: 0,0:22:47.60,0:22:49.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,my left hand leaves Dialogue: 0,0:22:49.60,0:22:52.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now it needs to go back in order for me Dialogue: 0,0:22:52.24,0:22:55.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to give slack so it's an extra action Dialogue: 0,0:22:55.04,0:22:57.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,also tunnel technique is the best for Dialogue: 0,0:22:57.28,0:23:00.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,taking small amounts of slack Dialogue: 0,0:23:00.00,0:23:01.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if i would try to take a small amount of Dialogue: 0,0:23:01.92,0:23:04.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slack continuously with any other Dialogue: 0,0:23:04.24,0:23:06.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,technique it's Dialogue: 0,0:23:06.56,0:23:08.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a lot of hand Dialogue: 0,0:23:08.48,0:23:09.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,movements Dialogue: 0,0:23:09.84,0:23:11.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,while the tunnel technique it's very Dialogue: 0,0:23:11.92,0:23:13.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,relaxed Dialogue: 0,0:23:13.44,0:23:15.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and that's why it's the most efficient Dialogue: 0,0:23:15.60,0:23:18.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,technique however you might know or Dialogue: 0,0:23:18.08,0:23:20.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,maybe you don't this technique is Dialogue: 0,0:23:20.16,0:23:23.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,actually not considered acceptable in Dialogue: 0,0:23:23.12,0:23:25.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,some parts of the planet Dialogue: 0,0:23:25.12,0:23:27.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with the argument that during the moment Dialogue: 0,0:23:27.76,0:23:30.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where you slide the hand up Dialogue: 0,0:23:30.08,0:23:32.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you don't have a firm grip on the brake Dialogue: 0,0:23:32.32,0:23:34.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand and during the fall maybe you will Dialogue: 0,0:23:34.80,0:23:37.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not be able to catch the fall to which Dialogue: 0,0:23:37.28,0:23:39.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,here is my arguments Dialogue: 0,0:23:39.60,0:23:42.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,first of all if you use any assisted Dialogue: 0,0:23:42.32,0:23:45.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,belaying device you don't even need any Dialogue: 0,0:23:45.60,0:23:47.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hard grip on the brake side of the rope Dialogue: 0,0:23:47.84,0:23:52.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,any light tug will make the device lock Dialogue: 0,0:23:52.16,0:23:54.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so this is not an issue immediately now Dialogue: 0,0:23:54.80,0:23:57.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you are using a tube i actually went Dialogue: 0,0:23:57.20,0:23:59.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,out and did an experiment on this where Dialogue: 0,0:23:59.44,0:24:01.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i asked inexperienced belayers to keep Dialogue: 0,0:24:01.76,0:24:04.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,moving the hand up and down while i was Dialogue: 0,0:24:04.64,0:24:07.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,distracting them and the climber was Dialogue: 0,0:24:07.12,0:24:10.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,taking unexpected falls for them Dialogue: 0,0:24:10.16,0:24:12.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so stay tuned for that it's gonna be Dialogue: 0,0:24:12.40,0:24:14.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,really crazy and really interesting Dialogue: 0,0:24:14.16,0:24:16.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,episode but in general when sliding the Dialogue: 0,0:24:16.72,0:24:19.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand up don't make a big tunnel i don't Dialogue: 0,0:24:19.20,0:24:20.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like that this technique is actually Dialogue: 0,0:24:20.64,0:24:22.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,called a tunnel method Dialogue: 0,0:24:22.40,0:24:25.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it shouldn't be a tunnel you're barely Dialogue: 0,0:24:25.20,0:24:27.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,opening the hand just barely enough for Dialogue: 0,0:24:27.84,0:24:30.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it to slide up the rope and if you are a Dialogue: 0,0:24:30.32,0:24:32.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,beginner it's really good idea to start Dialogue: 0,0:24:32.56,0:24:35.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,practicing with pbus technique because Dialogue: 0,0:24:35.12,0:24:37.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you will be sliding your hand up the Dialogue: 0,0:24:37.52,0:24:39.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope a lot Dialogue: 0,0:24:39.04,0:24:42.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with the backup of your other hand Dialogue: 0,0:24:42.16,0:24:44.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you will learn the feeling of the Dialogue: 0,0:24:44.24,0:24:46.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope going through your hand so start Dialogue: 0,0:24:46.64,0:24:49.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with this and once you get really Dialogue: 0,0:24:49.20,0:24:51.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,comfortable with this Dialogue: 0,0:24:51.20,0:24:53.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not bringing the left hand down and just Dialogue: 0,0:24:53.60,0:24:56.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,doing this will feel very natural by Dialogue: 0,0:24:56.40,0:24:58.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that point Dialogue: 0,0:24:58.00,0:24:59.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and just to make sure that i'm not Dialogue: 0,0:24:59.60,0:25:01.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,missing something in regards of safety Dialogue: 0,0:25:01.76,0:25:03.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of these three techniques i wrote an Dialogue: 0,0:25:03.60,0:25:06.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,email to about 25 different climbing Dialogue: 0,0:25:06.96,0:25:09.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,safety related organizations and Dialogue: 0,0:25:09.12,0:25:11.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,associations and asked them to comment Dialogue: 0,0:25:11.36,0:25:13.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on these techniques not all of them Dialogue: 0,0:25:13.44,0:25:15.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,replied unfortunately however out of Dialogue: 0,0:25:15.92,0:25:18.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,those who replied none of them said Dialogue: 0,0:25:18.48,0:25:20.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,anything against of any particular Dialogue: 0,0:25:20.88,0:25:23.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,technique so as long as you follow the Dialogue: 0,0:25:23.20,0:25:25.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,basic guidelines of proper belaying you Dialogue: 0,0:25:25.76,0:25:27.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will be fine maybe with an exception if Dialogue: 0,0:25:27.92,0:25:29.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you're in the united states and you need Dialogue: 0,0:25:29.44,0:25:32.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to take a delaying exam then you might Dialogue: 0,0:25:32.08,0:25:35.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,be forced to use the pibas and few more Dialogue: 0,0:25:35.04,0:25:36.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,mistakes that people do when they're Dialogue: 0,0:25:36.64,0:25:39.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,taking slack first of all they take the Dialogue: 0,0:25:39.36,0:25:43.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slack like this or like this Dialogue: 0,0:25:43.76,0:25:46.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so unless you are using a assisted Dialogue: 0,0:25:46.32,0:25:48.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,building device and you're guaranteed Dialogue: 0,0:25:48.32,0:25:51.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that that device will lock at this angle Dialogue: 0,0:25:51.28,0:25:53.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which i will make a separate video on Dialogue: 0,0:25:53.44,0:25:56.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that you might be in trouble second Dialogue: 0,0:25:56.00,0:25:58.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,mistake is people hold Dialogue: 0,0:25:58.56,0:26:01.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,both strands of the rope with the left Dialogue: 0,0:26:01.04,0:26:04.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand they do something like this Dialogue: 0,0:26:04.48,0:26:06.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the reason why they do this is to Dialogue: 0,0:26:06.96,0:26:09.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,prevent the belaying device from falling Dialogue: 0,0:26:09.28,0:26:12.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,down there however to fix that you don't Dialogue: 0,0:26:12.16,0:26:14.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,need to hold both strands of the rope Dialogue: 0,0:26:14.00,0:26:15.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can just simply hold one strand of Dialogue: 0,0:26:15.92,0:26:17.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the rope and you will have Dialogue: 0,0:26:17.60,0:26:20.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,exactly the same result Dialogue: 0,0:26:20.64,0:26:22.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay that's a lot of talking about Dialogue: 0,0:26:22.32,0:26:24.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,taking slack i just felt that that's the Dialogue: 0,0:26:24.56,0:26:27.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,most important part and the rest will be Dialogue: 0,0:26:27.20,0:26:29.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,much more simple so to give slack you Dialogue: 0,0:26:29.60,0:26:31.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,simply reverse the tunneling technique Dialogue: 0,0:26:31.92,0:26:34.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where your left hand pulls up while your Dialogue: 0,0:26:34.24,0:26:36.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,right hand assists then the left hand Dialogue: 0,0:26:36.88,0:26:39.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,goes down and you slide the break hand Dialogue: 0,0:26:39.76,0:26:42.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,down and you repeat Dialogue: 0,0:26:43.68,0:26:46.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the same technique works with most Dialogue: 0,0:26:46.48,0:26:48.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of assisted delaying devices while with Dialogue: 0,0:26:48.88,0:26:50.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,some of assisted devices you will need a Dialogue: 0,0:26:50.88,0:26:53.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,special action with assisted tubers it's Dialogue: 0,0:26:53.60,0:26:55.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,common to push them up while you're Dialogue: 0,0:26:55.52,0:26:58.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,giving slack Dialogue: 0,0:26:58.40,0:27:00.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now in case of the grigri you can either Dialogue: 0,0:27:00.56,0:27:04.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,use that standard way of giving slack or Dialogue: 0,0:27:04.32,0:27:06.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can press and greek this cam and Dialogue: 0,0:27:06.40,0:27:07.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pull the rope Dialogue: 0,0:27:07.84,0:27:10.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,just don't forget the rule number two Dialogue: 0,0:27:10.24,0:27:13.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the rope stays in the hand all the time Dialogue: 0,0:27:13.36,0:27:15.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now in case you need to give a lot of Dialogue: 0,0:27:15.44,0:27:17.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slack quickly like if the climber is Dialogue: 0,0:27:17.68,0:27:20.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,about to clip you take your left hand Dialogue: 0,0:27:20.32,0:27:22.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,close to the laying device and your Dialogue: 0,0:27:22.16,0:27:24.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,break hand far from the laying device Dialogue: 0,0:27:24.40,0:27:26.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this is important only then you can give Dialogue: 0,0:27:26.80,0:27:28.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a lot of slack quickly Dialogue: 0,0:27:28.96,0:27:31.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if your left hand is somewhere up you Dialogue: 0,0:27:31.92,0:27:35.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will be limited by it how far up you can Dialogue: 0,0:27:35.84,0:27:38.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,raise this hand equally if your brick Dialogue: 0,0:27:38.64,0:27:41.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand is close you will be limited by Dialogue: 0,0:27:41.04,0:27:43.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that hand how fast you can give slack Dialogue: 0,0:27:43.20,0:27:45.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then you will need to Dialogue: 0,0:27:45.20,0:27:48.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,do more actions so left hand close right Dialogue: 0,0:27:48.32,0:27:50.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand far anticipate and you can give a Dialogue: 0,0:27:50.64,0:27:52.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,lot of slack quickly and if things go Dialogue: 0,0:27:52.88,0:27:54.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wrong you can take all of that slack Dialogue: 0,0:27:54.80,0:27:56.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,quickly back now when you need to lower Dialogue: 0,0:27:56.64,0:27:58.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the climber you take both of the hands Dialogue: 0,0:27:58.72,0:28:01.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the brake side of the rope and you Dialogue: 0,0:28:01.04,0:28:03.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,use one hand to feed the rope to the Dialogue: 0,0:28:03.92,0:28:05.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,other hand Dialogue: 0,0:28:05.36,0:28:08.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's one way or if you're comfortable Dialogue: 0,0:28:08.08,0:28:10.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can let the rope slide through both Dialogue: 0,0:28:10.00,0:28:12.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of your hands Dialogue: 0,0:28:12.24,0:28:14.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the risk here is however if you go too Dialogue: 0,0:28:14.84,0:28:17.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fast the rope will go so fast through Dialogue: 0,0:28:17.92,0:28:20.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,both of your hands that it can burn both Dialogue: 0,0:28:20.08,0:28:22.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of them and then you will probably drop Dialogue: 0,0:28:22.48,0:28:24.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your climber so simply don't go fast Dialogue: 0,0:28:24.96,0:28:27.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there is absolutely no point of lowering Dialogue: 0,0:28:27.28,0:28:29.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a climber fast there is nothing cool Dialogue: 0,0:28:29.12,0:28:31.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,about that it heats your equipment way Dialogue: 0,0:28:31.76,0:28:33.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,more wears down your equipment it's Dialogue: 0,0:28:33.76,0:28:36.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,expensive and go in a controlled manner Dialogue: 0,0:28:36.16,0:28:38.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and if you're not sure you can always Dialogue: 0,0:28:38.56,0:28:40.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,feed the rope like so and in case your Dialogue: 0,0:28:40.72,0:28:43.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climber takes a fall Dialogue: 0,0:28:43.68,0:28:46.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,just hold on the brake side of the rope Dialogue: 0,0:28:46.72,0:28:48.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,even if you have number two in your Dialogue: 0,0:28:48.56,0:28:52.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pants hold it never let go and as soon Dialogue: 0,0:28:52.16,0:28:54.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as your climber will regain the ground Dialogue: 0,0:28:54.80,0:28:57.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and unload the rope most of the blank Dialogue: 0,0:28:57.44,0:28:59.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,devices will unlock themselves and Dialogue: 0,0:28:59.36,0:29:01.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you're ready to continue delaying while Dialogue: 0,0:29:01.84,0:29:04.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with some devices like click up Dialogue: 0,0:29:04.80,0:29:07.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,once it locks you need a special action Dialogue: 0,0:29:07.60,0:29:10.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to unlock it to continue blaming so as i Dialogue: 0,0:29:10.72,0:29:12.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,already said it's a good idea to look Dialogue: 0,0:29:12.32,0:29:14.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,into the manual of your blank device to Dialogue: 0,0:29:14.24,0:29:17.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,know all these little nuances that there Dialogue: 0,0:29:17.36,0:29:19.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,might be now if you are teaching Dialogue: 0,0:29:19.60,0:29:22.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,beginners or you are a beginner yourself Dialogue: 0,0:29:22.16,0:29:24.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,practice using belaying device on the Dialogue: 0,0:29:24.48,0:29:27.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ground without a climber and only once Dialogue: 0,0:29:27.84,0:29:29.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you're completely comfortable and you're Dialogue: 0,0:29:29.60,0:29:32.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ready to go and actually play somebody Dialogue: 0,0:29:32.00,0:29:33.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,then make sure to have somebody Dialogue: 0,0:29:33.92,0:29:36.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,experienced backing up holding on the Dialogue: 0,0:29:36.56,0:29:39.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,break side of the rope and giving you Dialogue: 0,0:29:39.12,0:29:42.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,guidance assistance on your technique Dialogue: 0,0:29:42.00,0:29:44.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this is really important i actually once Dialogue: 0,0:29:44.96,0:29:47.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,saved a climber when inexperienced Dialogue: 0,0:29:47.28,0:29:49.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,belayer was using a grigri i was backing Dialogue: 0,0:29:49.92,0:29:51.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,up the rope Dialogue: 0,0:29:51.52,0:29:53.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and actually i was the one who caught Dialogue: 0,0:29:53.76,0:29:55.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the fall and the full story if you're Dialogue: 0,0:29:55.84,0:29:58.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,interested is in this video about grigri Dialogue: 0,0:29:58.72,0:30:00.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and of course don't take this video as a Dialogue: 0,0:30:00.64,0:30:02.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,complete guide into delaying there is Dialogue: 0,0:30:02.56,0:30:04.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,way more things you need to know from Dialogue: 0,0:30:04.88,0:30:07.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,proper slack management to soft catches Dialogue: 0,0:30:07.92,0:30:10.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to belayer movement to good Dialogue: 0,0:30:10.08,0:30:12.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,communication with your climber and all Dialogue: 0,0:30:12.24,0:30:14.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of that is coming in the future episodes Dialogue: 0,0:30:14.56,0:30:17.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of belay master class Dialogue: 0,0:30:18.00,0:30:19.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's a lot of effort to make these Dialogue: 0,0:30:19.52,0:30:22.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,videos to be honest and this video was Dialogue: 0,0:30:22.24,0:30:24.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,brought to you by mamut Dialogue: 0,0:30:24.48,0:30:26.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and by all the people who are supporting Dialogue: 0,0:30:26.96,0:30:30.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,me by visiting my website so huge thank Dialogue: 0,0:30:30.48,0:30:33.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you for everyone and see you in the next Dialogue: 0,0:30:33.60,0:30:36.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,episode