[Script Info] Title: [Events] Format: Layer, Start, End, Style, Name, MarginL, MarginR, MarginV, Effect, Text Dialogue: 0,0:00:03.28,0:00:04.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Belaying devices. Dialogue: 0,0:00:04.61,0:00:07.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There are so many different\Nbelaying devices Dialogue: 0,0:00:07.28,0:00:11.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nowadays on the market and in my hands. Dialogue: 0,0:00:11.28,0:00:13.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And after this video you will be able Dialogue: 0,0:00:13.44,0:00:14.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to pick any of them. Dialogue: 0,0:00:14.96,0:00:16.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Not from my hands. Dialogue: 0,0:00:16.64,0:00:19.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And you will know how it works \Nand how to use it. Dialogue: 0,0:00:19.76,0:00:23.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So first of all, a belaying device\Nis simply a mechanism Dialogue: 0,0:00:23.66,0:00:24.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which allows to control Dialogue: 0,0:00:24.98,0:00:26.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the friction between your hand Dialogue: 0,0:00:26.96,0:00:28.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the climber. Dialogue: 0,0:00:28.32,0:00:29.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Alright. Dialogue: 0,0:00:29.52,0:00:33.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So here I hang and here I have almost Dialogue: 0,0:00:33.37,0:00:38.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,60 kilograms of force pulling \Non this strand of the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:00:38.10,0:00:40.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However for me to hold that Dialogue: 0,0:00:40.72,0:00:45.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm only using about 6 to 7 \Nkilograms of force Dialogue: 0,0:00:45.76,0:00:47.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the brake side of the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:00:47.44,0:00:50.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However if I would start raising Dialogue: 0,0:00:50.48,0:00:54.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,my brake hand up Dialogue: 0,0:00:54.08,0:00:56.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the force needed to hold that Dialogue: 0,0:00:56.67,0:01:00.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,goes to 9 kilograms of force... Dialogue: 0,0:01:00.54,0:01:02.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,10... Dialogue: 0,0:01:02.64,0:01:05.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,12... Dialogue: 0,0:01:07.28,0:01:10.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,15... Dialogue: 0,0:01:17.04,0:01:21.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So my max was around 25 kilograms of force Dialogue: 0,0:01:21.04,0:01:23.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with two hands in this position. Dialogue: 0,0:01:23.84,0:01:27.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That means that in this position \Nat this angle Dialogue: 0,0:01:27.09,0:01:30.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I can not even hold my own weight\Nwith two hands. Dialogue: 0,0:01:30.14,0:01:32.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There is no even talking about one hand. Dialogue: 0,0:01:32.89,0:01:35.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So now let's see how much\Nassistance I will get Dialogue: 0,0:01:35.35,0:01:39.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if my rope strands are completely \Nparallel to each other. Dialogue: 0,0:01:39.11,0:01:42.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So I will start pulling up Dialogue: 0,0:01:42.06,0:01:46.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as hard as i can. Dialogue: 0,0:01:56.08,0:01:58.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And so the answer is almost nothing. Dialogue: 0,0:01:58.40,0:01:59.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now to explain how that works Dialogue: 0,0:01:59.94,0:02:02.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,since there is so many \Ndifferent belaying devices Dialogue: 0,0:02:02.61,0:02:05.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm gonna group all of them \Ninto different categories. Dialogue: 0,0:02:05.97,0:02:08.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,First one is tubular style devices. Dialogue: 0,0:02:08.50,0:02:11.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That many mistakenly call them reverso. Dialogue: 0,0:02:11.59,0:02:14.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Which is only this device - \NPetzl Reverso. Dialogue: 0,0:02:14.44,0:02:18.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Or ATC which is this Black Diamond ATC. Dialogue: 0,0:02:18.48,0:02:21.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,While Mammut calls this \NAlpine Belaying Device. Simple. Dialogue: 0,0:02:21.46,0:02:25.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So with tubes the more\NI move my brake hand down Dialogue: 0,0:02:25.45,0:02:30.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the more it squeezes the rope between \Nthe carabiner and belaying device. Dialogue: 0,0:02:30.01,0:02:34.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And also tubes have \Na little groove in front of them. Dialogue: 0,0:02:34.01,0:02:37.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Which even further pinches on the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:02:37.09,0:02:40.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Plus as I pull down on the rope\Nit tilts the device Dialogue: 0,0:02:40.57,0:02:43.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which creates extra angles \Nand extra friction. Dialogue: 0,0:02:43.84,0:02:46.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So as we saw in my previous experiment Dialogue: 0,0:02:46.38,0:02:50.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if my hand is at the \Nlevel of the belaying device or higher Dialogue: 0,0:02:50.96,0:02:53.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the device creates very little friction. Dialogue: 0,0:02:53.12,0:02:55.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So if the climber would fall Dialogue: 0,0:02:55.26,0:02:58.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,while my hand is \Nin this position or higher Dialogue: 0,0:02:58.80,0:03:01.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there is a high chance \Nthat my hand would simply Dialogue: 0,0:03:01.36,0:03:04.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,get sucked into the belaying device. Dialogue: 0,0:03:04.96,0:03:08.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I got my hand pinched... Dialogue: 0,0:03:19.28,0:03:21.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And then maybe I will hurt my hand Dialogue: 0,0:03:21.29,0:03:23.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And let go off the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:03:23.92,0:03:25.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So if you want to see how my hand is Dialogue: 0,0:03:25.92,0:03:27.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,getting sucked into belaying device Dialogue: 0,0:03:27.75,0:03:29.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I already made a video about that. Dialogue: 0,0:03:29.80,0:03:32.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Also worth mentioning is that \Nrope thickness or diameter Dialogue: 0,0:03:32.91,0:03:35.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,has a huge effect on how easily Dialogue: 0,0:03:35.18,0:03:37.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the rope will go through belaying device. Dialogue: 0,0:03:37.61,0:03:39.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And every belaying device has a Dialogue: 0,0:03:39.52,0:03:42.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,recommended range of rope thicknesses Dialogue: 0,0:03:42.24,0:03:44.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which you can find \Nsomewhere in the manuals Dialogue: 0,0:03:44.58,0:03:46.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or sometimes on the device itself. Dialogue: 0,0:03:46.60,0:03:49.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And this brings us to advantages Dialogue: 0,0:03:49.12,0:03:50.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of tubular style devices. Dialogue: 0,0:03:50.99,0:03:55.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,First of all they work better with \Nwider range of rope diameters. Dialogue: 0,0:03:55.19,0:03:58.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All the way from super thick gym ropes Dialogue: 0,0:03:58.48,0:04:01.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to ultra skinny twin ropes. Dialogue: 0,0:04:01.00,0:04:03.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,On contrast if you would take a GriGri Dialogue: 0,0:04:03.51,0:04:06.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it says that it's optimized to work Dialogue: 0,0:04:06.06,0:04:09.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from 8.9 to 10.5 millimeters ropes. Dialogue: 0,0:04:09.87,0:04:11.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But from my experience Dialogue: 0,0:04:11.68,0:04:14.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,anything from 10 millimeters and above Dialogue: 0,0:04:14.32,0:04:16.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,doesn't work that well anymore. Dialogue: 0,0:04:16.12,0:04:19.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Yeah, there is this older GriGri\Nwhich works better with thicker ropes. Dialogue: 0,0:04:19.99,0:04:22.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But that one doesn't work well \Nwith thin ropes. Dialogue: 0,0:04:22.80,0:04:25.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Next, tubes are super lightweight. Dialogue: 0,0:04:25.69,0:04:27.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And they allow you to belay with two ropes Dialogue: 0,0:04:27.84,0:04:29.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,either double ropes or twin ropes. Dialogue: 0,0:04:29.60,0:04:31.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And if you don't know\Nwhat's a double or twin rope Dialogue: 0,0:04:31.98,0:04:35.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you should watch\Nmy master class on the ropes. Dialogue: 0,0:04:35.00,0:04:37.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Also with tubes you can make a soft catch Dialogue: 0,0:04:37.56,0:04:39.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,without moving yourself. Dialogue: 0,0:04:39.17,0:04:42.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,By allowing the rope \Nto slip through the device. Dialogue: 0,0:04:42.72,0:04:46.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And in general tubes don't catch as hard Dialogue: 0,0:04:46.72,0:04:49.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because there is always \Na little bit of slippage Dialogue: 0,0:04:49.24,0:04:51.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which reduces the peak forces. Dialogue: 0,0:04:51.84,0:04:54.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Which might be very beneficial\Nfor trad climbers. Dialogue: 0,0:04:54.24,0:04:56.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Since it reduces the chance Dialogue: 0,0:04:56.56,0:04:59.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that the pieces of the gear will fall out. Dialogue: 0,0:04:59.08,0:05:02.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And finally tubes have \Nthis loop at the top. Dialogue: 0,0:05:02.41,0:05:05.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that allows you \Nto set this device in a guide mode Dialogue: 0,0:05:05.52,0:05:08.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in which you can even belay \Ntwo following climbers Dialogue: 0,0:05:08.69,0:05:13.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,coming up on top rope simultaneously Dialogue: 0,0:05:13.44,0:05:16.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,simon... simultaneously. Dialogue: 0,0:05:16.23,0:05:18.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And all of that are the reasons Dialogue: 0,0:05:18.36,0:05:21.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,why tubes are still very commonly used Dialogue: 0,0:05:21.37,0:05:24.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in traditional or alpine \Nor multi-pitch scenarios. Dialogue: 0,0:05:24.44,0:05:27.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However none of that is really useful Dialogue: 0,0:05:27.68,0:05:30.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you're just doing \Nsingle pitch sport climbing. Dialogue: 0,0:05:30.26,0:05:32.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And the biggest disadvantage of tubes Dialogue: 0,0:05:32.40,0:05:34.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is of course that they don't lock Dialogue: 0,0:05:34.30,0:05:37.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,meaning if you would let go the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:05:37.60,0:05:39.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Which by the way brings us Dialogue: 0,0:05:39.26,0:05:41.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to the main rule of belaying. Dialogue: 0,0:05:41.00,0:05:43.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If you are in need of number two Dialogue: 0,0:05:43.52,0:05:46.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you have a choice to poop your pants Dialogue: 0,0:05:46.48,0:05:50.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or to let go the brake side of the rope - Dialogue: 0,0:05:50.40,0:05:52.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you poop your pants! Dialogue: 0,0:05:52.06,0:05:55.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Meaning in no circumstances \Nyou're allowed to lose control Dialogue: 0,0:05:55.89,0:05:57.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of the brake side of the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:05:57.44,0:05:59.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that's by the way also equally true Dialogue: 0,0:05:59.60,0:06:03.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for assisted belaying devices \Nbut we are gonna talk next. Dialogue: 0,0:06:03.12,0:06:06.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So assisted devices \Nhave an ability to lock Dialogue: 0,0:06:06.53,0:06:08.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in case the climber falls. Dialogue: 0,0:06:08.48,0:06:11.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Which obviously adds a lot of safety. Dialogue: 0,0:06:11.44,0:06:14.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,For example if you would \Nknock a rock while you're climbing Dialogue: 0,0:06:14.80,0:06:19.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and that rock would \Nfall on your belayer's head... Dialogue: 0,0:06:19.04,0:06:20.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that's why we wear a helmet! Dialogue: 0,0:06:20.80,0:06:24.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So first of all your belayer would \Nreally like to have a helmet. Dialogue: 0,0:06:24.24,0:06:27.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But you as a climber \Nwould really love that Dialogue: 0,0:06:27.16,0:06:30.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there would be one of these \Nassisted devices down there. Dialogue: 0,0:06:30.37,0:06:33.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And in fact my own skin\Nwas once saved by this guy. Dialogue: 0,0:06:33.96,0:06:35.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,When I did a little fall Dialogue: 0,0:06:35.56,0:06:37.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and my belayer did not notice Dialogue: 0,0:06:37.26,0:06:39.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that there was a rock next to her leg. Dialogue: 0,0:06:39.57,0:06:41.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And while she was flying forward, Dialogue: 0,0:06:41.88,0:06:44.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,her leg got stuck, and she spun around, Dialogue: 0,0:06:44.91,0:06:46.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and hit her back to the wall. Dialogue: 0,0:06:46.78,0:06:49.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And let both of the hands go. Dialogue: 0,0:06:49.46,0:06:54.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So this guy is basically a reason why \NI'm still here. Dialogue: 0,0:06:54.40,0:06:56.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And making these videos. Dialogue: 0,0:06:56.18,0:06:59.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now super important that number two rule Dialogue: 0,0:06:59.28,0:07:01.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is also applicable for these guys. Dialogue: 0,0:07:01.36,0:07:04.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,After all they are called assisted. Dialogue: 0,0:07:04.01,0:07:07.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So don't treat them as fully automatic. Dialogue: 0,0:07:07.21,0:07:10.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Because there are cases \Nwhere they will not lock. Dialogue: 0,0:07:10.88,0:07:13.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Apart from safety this locking is also Dialogue: 0,0:07:13.76,0:07:15.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,super useful in long belays Dialogue: 0,0:07:15.85,0:07:18.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If your climber is hanging \Non the rope a lot Dialogue: 0,0:07:18.53,0:07:20.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and projecting some hard moves. Dialogue: 0,0:07:20.52,0:07:22.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So if we compare this to the tube Dialogue: 0,0:07:22.56,0:07:26.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,even in the most mechanically \Nadvantaged position Dialogue: 0,0:07:26.72,0:07:29.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you will still need to hold on the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:07:29.28,0:07:32.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And in very long belays \Nthis will get tiring. Dialogue: 0,0:07:32.73,0:07:35.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,While with assisted devices \Nit's pretty chill. Dialogue: 0,0:07:35.21,0:07:37.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You are literally just \Nsitting in your harness. Dialogue: 0,0:07:37.78,0:07:42.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,OK, so the first group of \Nassisted belaying devices Dialogue: 0,0:07:42.88,0:07:45.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is called assisted tubers. Dialogue: 0,0:07:45.07,0:07:48.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That's because they look like tubes Dialogue: 0,0:07:48.41,0:07:51.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and they work similarly to regular tubes Dialogue: 0,0:07:51.40,0:07:52.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where we squeeze the rope Dialogue: 0,0:07:52.96,0:07:55.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,between the carabiner and the device. Dialogue: 0,0:07:55.76,0:07:57.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Except that they have a shape Dialogue: 0,0:07:57.68,0:08:00.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that shifts the carabiner in position Dialogue: 0,0:08:00.44,0:08:03.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where it squeezes on the rope so hard Dialogue: 0,0:08:03.40,0:08:05.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that it completely locks it off. Dialogue: 0,0:08:05.48,0:08:08.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,A little disadvantage of assisted tubes Dialogue: 0,0:08:08.60,0:08:11.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is that once in locked position Dialogue: 0,0:08:11.32,0:08:14.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you cannot quickly \Nfeed slack to the climber. Dialogue: 0,0:08:14.16,0:08:17.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You need a special action \Nto unlock the device Dialogue: 0,0:08:17.40,0:08:19.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,before you can feed the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:08:19.52,0:08:21.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,For example with Click Up Dialogue: 0,0:08:21.42,0:08:23.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it even clicks Dialogue: 0,0:08:23.22,0:08:25.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and now I cannot do anything. Dialogue: 0,0:08:25.22,0:08:27.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I literally need to unclick it. Dialogue: 0,0:08:27.91,0:08:29.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And now I can continue belaying. Dialogue: 0,0:08:29.53,0:08:31.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now one really important thing Dialogue: 0,0:08:31.34,0:08:33.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that not many know about assisted tubers Dialogue: 0,0:08:33.71,0:08:36.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That they suffer from the same problem Dialogue: 0,0:08:36.42,0:08:38.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as regular tubes Dialogue: 0,0:08:38.33,0:08:42.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,meaning that \Nif your hand is in up position Dialogue: 0,0:08:42.32,0:08:44.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the device will not lock. Dialogue: 0,0:08:44.43,0:08:45.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,As you can see it's not locking Dialogue: 0,0:08:45.99,0:08:48.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And if the climber would take a fall Dialogue: 0,0:08:48.72,0:08:51.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the rope would just slide from my hand Dialogue: 0,0:08:51.04,0:08:54.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and burn it. Oh, it's already burning. Dialogue: 0,0:08:54.16,0:08:56.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However unlike regular tubes Dialogue: 0,0:08:56.54,0:08:58.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Where you can get your hands sucked Dialogue: 0,0:08:58.24,0:08:59.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,even at very big angles Dialogue: 0,0:08:59.96,0:09:01.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,most assisted tubers Dialogue: 0,0:09:01.66,0:09:03.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will only fail at the angles Dialogue: 0,0:09:03.93,0:09:06.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that are very extremely high up. Dialogue: 0,0:09:06.27,0:09:08.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And some actually don't fail at all. Dialogue: 0,0:09:08.52,0:09:10.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm actually gonna make a separate video Dialogue: 0,0:09:10.88,0:09:12.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where I was experimenting Dialogue: 0,0:09:12.70,0:09:15.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,at which angles which devices lock. Dialogue: 0,0:09:15.83,0:09:17.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So stay tuned for that. Dialogue: 0,0:09:17.57,0:09:20.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I can't put everything \Ninto one video because Dialogue: 0,0:09:20.15,0:09:23.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I need you to subscribe. Dialogue: 0,0:09:23.04,0:09:26.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But independently of which \Nbelaying device you're using Dialogue: 0,0:09:26.11,0:09:29.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,just develop a habit of keeping \Nyour brake hand down. Dialogue: 0,0:09:29.58,0:09:32.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Also good to know for people \Nwho climb with two ropes Dialogue: 0,0:09:32.73,0:09:34.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is that there are assisted tubers Dialogue: 0,0:09:34.80,0:09:36.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that work with two ropes. Dialogue: 0,0:09:36.39,0:09:37.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In case you go on a multi-pitch Dialogue: 0,0:09:37.88,0:09:41.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you want extra safety \Nyou have some options. Dialogue: 0,0:09:41.44,0:09:44.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All right let's move on to \Ncam assisted devices. Dialogue: 0,0:09:44.32,0:09:46.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm sure everybody knows GriGri. Dialogue: 0,0:09:46.34,0:09:48.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But there are more devices like Dialogue: 0,0:09:48.50,0:09:51.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Trango Vergo and Birdie and others. Dialogue: 0,0:09:51.08,0:09:52.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And the way they work is Dialogue: 0,0:09:52.38,0:09:54.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that they have a camming \Nmechanism inside Dialogue: 0,0:09:54.66,0:09:56.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which pinches on the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:09:56.31,0:09:58.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now in the case of GriGri Dialogue: 0,0:09:58.20,0:10:01.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the cam is spring-loaded \Nmeaning that as soon as Dialogue: 0,0:10:01.68,0:10:04.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there is no more load \Non the climber's end of the rope Dialogue: 0,0:10:04.66,0:10:06.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the cam will disengage. Dialogue: 0,0:10:06.40,0:10:08.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And you can belay normally. Dialogue: 0,0:10:08.72,0:10:10.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,While in the case of Vergo Dialogue: 0,0:10:10.40,0:10:11.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it doesn't have a spring. Dialogue: 0,0:10:11.76,0:10:14.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And you need to position the device Dialogue: 0,0:10:14.16,0:10:15.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in a certain way Dialogue: 0,0:10:15.92,0:10:17.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to be able to feed the slack. Dialogue: 0,0:10:17.94,0:10:19.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All right back to GriGri. Dialogue: 0,0:10:19.98,0:10:22.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If you press on GriGri's cam Dialogue: 0,0:10:22.22,0:10:25.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but you ignore the rule number two Dialogue: 0,0:10:25.20,0:10:28.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you don't hold\Nthe break side of the rope Dialogue: 0,0:10:28.46,0:10:32.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this can happen... Dialogue: 0,0:10:37.92,0:10:40.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Also if you ignore rule number two Dialogue: 0,0:10:40.88,0:10:45.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and your GriGri gets trapped \Nin the first piece of gear Dialogue: 0,0:10:45.20,0:10:47.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this can happen Dialogue: 0,0:10:51.36,0:10:53.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Many of you asked Dialogue: 0,0:10:53.28,0:10:56.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if this problem of \Ntrapping in the first bolt Dialogue: 0,0:10:56.16,0:10:58.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where it disengages the cam Dialogue: 0,0:10:58.48,0:11:01.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is also applicable for assisted tubers. Dialogue: 0,0:11:01.98,0:11:04.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So with most assisted devices Dialogue: 0,0:11:04.78,0:11:07.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the answer is unlikely. Dialogue: 0,0:11:07.12,0:11:09.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Since there is no cam that i could press Dialogue: 0,0:11:09.92,0:11:12.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to disengage this locking. Dialogue: 0,0:11:12.56,0:11:16.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Only if i would press on this end Dialogue: 0,0:11:16.08,0:11:18.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it kind of slips a bit but still Dialogue: 0,0:11:18.80,0:11:21.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stays locked. Dialogue: 0,0:11:25.92,0:11:29.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This Click Up Dialogue: 0,0:11:29.12,0:11:33.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,doesn't even lock \Nif i don't hold the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:11:33.04,0:11:37.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Amazing. Number two rule. Hold the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:11:38.96,0:11:40.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Yeah. Dialogue: 0,0:11:40.48,0:11:44.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There's no way I can unlock this Dialogue: 0,0:11:44.56,0:11:47.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in this manner. Dialogue: 0,0:11:47.68,0:11:50.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So no assisted tubers \Ndon't have this risk. Dialogue: 0,0:11:50.92,0:11:53.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now this is a little future me Dialogue: 0,0:11:53.04,0:11:56.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,after I was editing this part \Nthat you just seen. Dialogue: 0,0:11:56.28,0:11:58.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And I saw this I realized that Dialogue: 0,0:11:58.48,0:12:00.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I was using a wrong carabiner. Dialogue: 0,0:12:00.96,0:12:05.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Turns out Click Ups need \Ntheir own specific carabiners Dialogue: 0,0:12:05.39,0:12:07.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that's a reason why \Nyou should read the manual. Dialogue: 0,0:12:07.86,0:12:12.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So that's the carabiner \Nyou should use for a Click Up. Dialogue: 0,0:12:12.45,0:12:15.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Let's see if it locks. Dialogue: 0,0:12:16.40,0:12:19.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,No difference. Dialogue: 0,0:12:19.76,0:12:22.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So number two rule. Dialogue: 0,0:12:22.24,0:12:23.63,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And read the manual Dialogue: 0,0:12:23.63,0:12:26.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because some of \Nthe assisted delaying devices Dialogue: 0,0:12:26.23,0:12:28.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,require you a specific belaying carabiner. Dialogue: 0,0:12:28.82,0:12:30.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I don't know if it's just marketing Dialogue: 0,0:12:30.64,0:12:33.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or the shape of the carabiner \Nis slightly different. Dialogue: 0,0:12:33.49,0:12:36.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Just use what the manufacturers recommend. Dialogue: 0,0:12:36.50,0:12:38.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And finally there is this guy. Dialogue: 0,0:12:38.48,0:12:41.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's a Revo from Wild Country. Dialogue: 0,0:12:41.12,0:12:43.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's an inertia based mechanism. Dialogue: 0,0:12:43.78,0:12:46.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Which will lock once the climber starts Dialogue: 0,0:12:46.56,0:12:49.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,falling faster than 4 meters per second. Dialogue: 0,0:12:49.35,0:12:51.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So if i pull slowly it doesn't lock. Dialogue: 0,0:12:51.75,0:12:56.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I need to pull really fast \Nin order for it to lock. Dialogue: 0,0:12:56.32,0:12:57.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So my goal of this video Dialogue: 0,0:12:57.94,0:13:00.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is not to compare all \Nof the delaying devices Dialogue: 0,0:13:00.32,0:13:02.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the market and \Ntell you which one to buy. Dialogue: 0,0:13:02.64,0:13:03.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Sorry for that. Dialogue: 0,0:13:03.76,0:13:09.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Every device have its own \Npros and cons, haters and lovers. Dialogue: 0,0:13:09.01,0:13:10.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Full internet of that. Dialogue: 0,0:13:10.30,0:13:12.100,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However if you would want such comparison Dialogue: 0,0:13:12.100,0:13:14.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,let me know in the comments and maybe Dialogue: 0,0:13:14.97,0:13:17.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I will make a separate video on that. Dialogue: 0,0:13:17.81,0:13:19.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,OK now I have a tip for you Dialogue: 0,0:13:19.87,0:13:21.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that will make your life \Na little bit easier Dialogue: 0,0:13:21.49,0:13:23.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and maybe will even save your ass Dialogue: 0,0:13:23.79,0:13:25.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on a multi-pitch one day. Dialogue: 0,0:13:25.04,0:13:26.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Humans, Dialogue: 0,0:13:26.16,0:13:28.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we have two hands normally Dialogue: 0,0:13:28.41,0:13:32.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and handling more than \Ntwo objects in two hands Dialogue: 0,0:13:32.40,0:13:33.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is not ideal. Dialogue: 0,0:13:33.43,0:13:36.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,What I often see that people\Ntake their belaying device, Dialogue: 0,0:13:36.13,0:13:37.77,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,their carabiner, the rope... Dialogue: 0,0:13:37.77,0:13:39.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That's already three objects by the way. Dialogue: 0,0:13:39.88,0:13:42.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And they try to connect everything Dialogue: 0,0:13:42.64,0:13:44.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in space Dialogue: 0,0:13:44.96,0:13:48.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like so... Dialogue: 0,0:13:49.44,0:13:50.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Ready to belay. Dialogue: 0,0:13:50.44,0:13:52.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So doing this Dialogue: 0,0:13:52.17,0:13:53.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will greatly increase the chance Dialogue: 0,0:13:53.69,0:13:55.47,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that one day you will drop something. Dialogue: 0,0:13:55.47,0:13:57.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You will be trying to connect something Dialogue: 0,0:13:57.36,0:13:59.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then suddenly whoops... Dialogue: 0,0:13:59.36,0:14:01.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Your belaying device flies down. Dialogue: 0,0:14:01.01,0:14:02.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If you're not on a multi-pitch Dialogue: 0,0:14:02.44,0:14:03.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you're standing on the ground Dialogue: 0,0:14:03.99,0:14:05.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's not a big deal. Dialogue: 0,0:14:05.28,0:14:07.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However if you drop your belaying device Dialogue: 0,0:14:07.68,0:14:09.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on a multi-pitch Dialogue: 0,0:14:09.20,0:14:10.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you are in big trouble. Dialogue: 0,0:14:10.51,0:14:12.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So this is what you do to avoid that. Dialogue: 0,0:14:12.70,0:14:14.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Normally your belaying device Dialogue: 0,0:14:14.28,0:14:15.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will live with your carabiner Dialogue: 0,0:14:15.92,0:14:17.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,somewhere on the harness. Dialogue: 0,0:14:17.76,0:14:18.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So step one. Dialogue: 0,0:14:18.85,0:14:22.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You take both of them\Ntogether as one unit. Dialogue: 0,0:14:22.42,0:14:24.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So I'm carrying only one unit. Dialogue: 0,0:14:24.85,0:14:28.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And you immediately connect it \Nto belaying loop. Dialogue: 0,0:14:28.80,0:14:31.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So you cannot drop anything right now, Dialogue: 0,0:14:31.28,0:14:32.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,everything is safe. Dialogue: 0,0:14:32.32,0:14:34.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Step two. You take a bite of rope Dialogue: 0,0:14:34.39,0:14:37.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you insert into your belaying device. Dialogue: 0,0:14:37.60,0:14:40.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Keep in mind of \Nthe orientation of the rope Dialogue: 0,0:14:40.28,0:14:42.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which end has to go to the climber Dialogue: 0,0:14:42.32,0:14:44.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which end is your break hand. Dialogue: 0,0:14:44.34,0:14:45.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If you're not sure Dialogue: 0,0:14:45.62,0:14:48.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,every belaying device has an image Dialogue: 0,0:14:48.08,0:14:49.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the side of it. Dialogue: 0,0:14:49.50,0:14:51.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Which will remind you that. Dialogue: 0,0:14:51.04,0:14:53.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And next. Open your carabiner Dialogue: 0,0:14:53.70,0:14:56.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and hook your rope together Dialogue: 0,0:14:56.40,0:14:58.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with the belaying device. Dialogue: 0,0:14:58.48,0:15:01.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So at no point there was a chance for me Dialogue: 0,0:15:01.44,0:15:02.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to drop anything. Dialogue: 0,0:15:02.69,0:15:04.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And once you're done belaying Dialogue: 0,0:15:04.72,0:15:05.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you simply reverse the process. Dialogue: 0,0:15:05.60,0:15:07.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Where you open the carabiner, Dialogue: 0,0:15:07.67,0:15:08.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you unhook the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:15:08.89,0:15:10.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But you hook the belaying device. Dialogue: 0,0:15:10.57,0:15:13.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And then you simply can \Njust pull out the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:15:13.35,0:15:16.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And your belaying device stays\Non your harness with the carabiner. Dialogue: 0,0:15:16.48,0:15:19.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If you want to put it somewhere else \Nyou put it somewhere else. Dialogue: 0,0:15:19.65,0:15:21.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And the same works with assisted tubers. Dialogue: 0,0:15:21.28,0:15:22.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So step one. Dialogue: 0,0:15:22.80,0:15:25.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Connect your belaying device \Nto your harness, Dialogue: 0,0:15:25.68,0:15:27.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,take a bite of rope, Dialogue: 0,0:15:27.21,0:15:31.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,put that bite of rope \Ninto belaying device, Dialogue: 0,0:15:31.52,0:15:36.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,open the carabiner and hook the rope \Nand belaying device together. Dialogue: 0,0:15:36.40,0:15:39.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now in case of the GriGri \Nit's slightly different. Dialogue: 0,0:15:39.51,0:15:41.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So as always step one Dialogue: 0,0:15:41.51,0:15:44.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,clip your belaying device\Nto your belay loop. Dialogue: 0,0:15:44.92,0:15:45.63,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So you cannot drop anything. Dialogue: 0,0:15:45.63,0:15:47.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now if you're not on a multi-pitch Dialogue: 0,0:15:47.25,0:15:49.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and dropping your GriGri\Nis not a big deal Dialogue: 0,0:15:49.28,0:15:51.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you simply take off your grigri, Dialogue: 0,0:15:51.14,0:15:53.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,open it in this cool way, Dialogue: 0,0:15:53.20,0:15:56.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,insert the rope, and clip it back. Simple. Dialogue: 0,0:15:56.72,0:15:59.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now if you are on a multi-pitch Dialogue: 0,0:15:59.76,0:16:01.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there is a technique. Dialogue: 0,0:16:01.36,0:16:02.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So this is what you do. Dialogue: 0,0:16:02.53,0:16:05.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You open your carabiner Dialogue: 0,0:16:05.68,0:16:09.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and hook only half of the GriGri together. Dialogue: 0,0:16:09.18,0:16:10.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Then you can open the GriGri. Dialogue: 0,0:16:10.80,0:16:12.77,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And it's connected to your carabiner. Dialogue: 0,0:16:12.77,0:16:13.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You cannot drop it. Dialogue: 0,0:16:13.83,0:16:15.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You insert the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:16:15.29,0:16:17.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You close it. Dialogue: 0,0:16:17.36,0:16:19.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And then you open your carabiner again Dialogue: 0,0:16:19.60,0:16:21.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and hook the grigri back. Dialogue: 0,0:16:21.76,0:16:24.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So this is as safe as you can do \Nwith the grigri Dialogue: 0,0:16:24.82,0:16:25.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on a multi-pitch. Dialogue: 0,0:16:25.95,0:16:27.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And obviously once you're done Dialogue: 0,0:16:27.69,0:16:31.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's just simply reversing the process of Dialogue: 0,0:16:31.76,0:16:34.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,doing this Dialogue: 0,0:16:34.84,0:16:37.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and doing that. Dialogue: 0,0:16:37.52,0:16:39.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,OK so I hope that by now Dialogue: 0,0:16:39.13,0:16:41.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I gave you enough examples Dialogue: 0,0:16:41.01,0:16:43.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how not to use belaying devices. Dialogue: 0,0:16:43.45,0:16:46.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And now i'm gonna show you\Nproper techniques. Dialogue: 0,0:16:46.43,0:16:48.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The good part is that Dialogue: 0,0:16:48.08,0:16:50.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,no matter what belaying device you use Dialogue: 0,0:16:50.31,0:16:52.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,good belaying techniques don't change. Dialogue: 0,0:16:52.71,0:16:55.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There are slight differences\Nthat i'm gonna mention. Dialogue: 0,0:16:55.23,0:16:57.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But for majority it's the same. Dialogue: 0,0:16:57.44,0:16:58.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All right. Dialogue: 0,0:16:58.32,0:16:59.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So I hope that by now Dialogue: 0,0:16:59.74,0:17:02.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,number two rule is \Nstrongly embedded into you. Dialogue: 0,0:17:02.97,0:17:04.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However if for some reason Dialogue: 0,0:17:04.73,0:17:06.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you really need to go hands-free Dialogue: 0,0:17:06.98,0:17:09.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can tie a backup knot Dialogue: 0,0:17:09.52,0:17:12.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,at your brake end. Like so. Dialogue: 0,0:17:12.40,0:17:14.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And this is totally fine. Dialogue: 0,0:17:14.64,0:17:16.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In case something happens and the rope Dialogue: 0,0:17:16.80,0:17:18.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,would slip all the way Dialogue: 0,0:17:18.40,0:17:20.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the GriGri will lock. Dialogue: 0,0:17:20.40,0:17:22.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However in the case of tube Dialogue: 0,0:17:22.04,0:17:23.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's slightly different. Dialogue: 0,0:17:23.30,0:17:25.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If you would just simply Dialogue: 0,0:17:25.12,0:17:27.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tie a knot here. Dialogue: 0,0:17:27.04,0:17:28.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And the climber would fall. Dialogue: 0,0:17:28.56,0:17:29.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There is a chance that Dialogue: 0,0:17:29.66,0:17:31.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this knot will get jammed Dialogue: 0,0:17:31.97,0:17:33.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in your belaying device so hard Dialogue: 0,0:17:33.72,0:17:37.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that you will have trouble to unjam it. Dialogue: 0,0:17:37.68,0:17:39.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Let's use a slightly different carabiner Dialogue: 0,0:17:39.74,0:17:42.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so it's easier for you \Nto see what's happening. Dialogue: 0,0:17:42.17,0:17:44.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So in the case of tube Dialogue: 0,0:17:44.51,0:17:45.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you take a bite of rope Dialogue: 0,0:17:45.79,0:17:47.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then you take another bite of rope Dialogue: 0,0:17:47.94,0:17:50.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and put through the first one Dialogue: 0,0:17:50.56,0:17:52.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you make it tight. Dialogue: 0,0:17:52.64,0:17:55.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And make sure that\Nthis loop is long enough. Dialogue: 0,0:17:55.84,0:17:56.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Like so. Dialogue: 0,0:17:56.96,0:17:59.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This will hold but this is not enough. Dialogue: 0,0:17:59.49,0:18:02.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,To make it extra safe Dialogue: 0,0:18:02.15,0:18:05.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you tie in back up knot here. Dialogue: 0,0:18:05.32,0:18:07.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So now i can go hands-free. Dialogue: 0,0:18:07.29,0:18:09.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And in case my climber takes a fall Dialogue: 0,0:18:09.36,0:18:10.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this will hold him. Dialogue: 0,0:18:10.70,0:18:13.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And if i want to release all of that Dialogue: 0,0:18:13.20,0:18:15.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hold the brake side of the rope, Dialogue: 0,0:18:15.84,0:18:19.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,untie the top backup knot, Dialogue: 0,0:18:19.20,0:18:22.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and start pulling the rope Dialogue: 0,0:18:22.80,0:18:25.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,until you have a little loop left. Dialogue: 0,0:18:25.44,0:18:27.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,At this point inform your climber that Dialogue: 0,0:18:27.44,0:18:28.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,he might Dialogue: 0,0:18:28.40,0:18:30.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,feel a little bump Dialogue: 0,0:18:30.16,0:18:32.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and tug fast. Dialogue: 0,0:18:32.48,0:18:34.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Like so. If you do this correctly Dialogue: 0,0:18:34.28,0:18:36.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your climber will not go down at all. Dialogue: 0,0:18:36.23,0:18:40.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now if you're not familiar \Nwith slip slap slap... Dialogue: 0,0:18:40.56,0:18:43.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this technique - good . Dialogue: 0,0:18:43.44,0:18:46.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You can safely \Nignore my next sentence. Dialogue: 0,0:18:46.27,0:18:48.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However if you're using that technique Dialogue: 0,0:18:48.32,0:18:51.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I would strongly advise you to reconsider. Dialogue: 0,0:18:51.45,0:18:53.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Because in the case of the fall Dialogue: 0,0:18:53.00,0:18:54.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your hand might get sucked Dialogue: 0,0:18:54.60,0:18:55.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,into the bellying device Dialogue: 0,0:18:55.86,0:18:57.77,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,faster than you might think. Dialogue: 0,0:18:57.77,0:18:59.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So as a good rule of thumb keep Dialogue: 0,0:18:59.60,0:19:01.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your break hand always down. Dialogue: 0,0:19:01.95,0:19:06.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And do any hand swapping or sliding there. Dialogue: 0,0:19:06.25,0:19:07.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So now a little disclaimer. Dialogue: 0,0:19:07.79,0:19:08.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm gonna show you Dialogue: 0,0:19:08.72,0:19:11.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,three different techniques\Nof taking slack. Dialogue: 0,0:19:11.97,0:19:14.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And depending on \Nwhere you are on the planet Dialogue: 0,0:19:14.32,0:19:15.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,some of them Dialogue: 0,0:19:15.36,0:19:17.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,might be not considered as acceptable. Dialogue: 0,0:19:17.98,0:19:19.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So stick with me Dialogue: 0,0:19:19.46,0:19:20.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm gonna explain. Dialogue: 0,0:19:20.60,0:19:23.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Because i went really deep\Nin this rabbit hole. Dialogue: 0,0:19:23.36,0:19:25.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So all the techniques start the same. Dialogue: 0,0:19:25.30,0:19:26.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Your left hand reaches up Dialogue: 0,0:19:26.94,0:19:28.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and pulls down on the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:19:28.64,0:19:30.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,While at the same time your break hand Dialogue: 0,0:19:30.61,0:19:33.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pushes forward and locks it down. Dialogue: 0,0:19:33.28,0:19:35.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And now at this point you need to bring Dialogue: 0,0:19:35.36,0:19:37.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your right hand up the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:19:37.76,0:19:40.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And there are \Nthree different ways to do so. Dialogue: 0,0:19:40.70,0:19:41.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The first one. Dialogue: 0,0:19:41.60,0:19:43.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's more popular in Europe. Dialogue: 0,0:19:43.21,0:19:45.63,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And it's called hand over hand Dialogue: 0,0:19:45.63,0:19:46.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or V to the knee. Dialogue: 0,0:19:46.64,0:19:49.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So you simply take your left hand Dialogue: 0,0:19:49.52,0:19:52.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and go over your right hand Dialogue: 0,0:19:52.56,0:19:53.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then right hand goes Dialogue: 0,0:19:53.76,0:19:54.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,over your left hand. Dialogue: 0,0:19:54.88,0:19:57.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That's why it's called hand over hand. Dialogue: 0,0:19:57.95,0:19:59.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So you take, .... hand over hand, Dialogue: 0,0:19:59.94,0:20:03.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you take, ... hand over hand. Dialogue: 0,0:20:03.49,0:20:05.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So I find myself using this technique Dialogue: 0,0:20:05.55,0:20:08.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when the climber wants me\Nto take really hard Dialogue: 0,0:20:08.17,0:20:10.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as he's moving up the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:20:10.11,0:20:11.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Because you're always Dialogue: 0,0:20:11.57,0:20:13.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pulling down on the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:20:13.53,0:20:15.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You can... Dialogue: 0,0:20:15.04,0:20:16.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It kind of feels like Dialogue: 0,0:20:16.91,0:20:19.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climbing up the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:20:19.04,0:20:21.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Very comfortable. Dialogue: 0,0:20:22.56,0:20:24.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So the problem with this technique is Dialogue: 0,0:20:24.40,0:20:26.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that when people get really good Dialogue: 0,0:20:26.34,0:20:29.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and can do it really fast Dialogue: 0,0:20:29.20,0:20:32.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,they start letting go the brake hand Dialogue: 0,0:20:32.32,0:20:35.77,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,before the left hand goes \Ninto the locking position. Dialogue: 0,0:20:35.77,0:20:36.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So we do this. Dialogue: 0,0:20:36.88,0:20:40.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We take this, let go already, Dialogue: 0,0:20:40.40,0:20:42.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then go into locking position. Dialogue: 0,0:20:42.52,0:20:44.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If the climber would fall Dialogue: 0,0:20:44.56,0:20:46.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in the moment where you let go this Dialogue: 0,0:20:46.99,0:20:49.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you don't lock the hand down Dialogue: 0,0:20:49.78,0:20:52.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you probably know what would happen. Dialogue: 0,0:20:52.29,0:20:54.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So obviously a simple solution - Dialogue: 0,0:20:54.24,0:20:55.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,lock, Dialogue: 0,0:20:55.04,0:20:56.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then in the locking position Dialogue: 0,0:20:56.90,0:20:58.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,do any hand swapping. Dialogue: 0,0:20:58.35,0:21:00.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And another thing you need to be aware of Dialogue: 0,0:21:00.40,0:21:01.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that sometimes if the Dialogue: 0,0:21:01.92,0:21:03.77,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climber drops a bunch of slack Dialogue: 0,0:21:03.77,0:21:05.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your belaying device falls down. Dialogue: 0,0:21:05.70,0:21:07.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And here you need to be careful Dialogue: 0,0:21:07.51,0:21:09.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to not take your left Dialogue: 0,0:21:09.44,0:21:11.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hand over the belaying device. Dialogue: 0,0:21:11.67,0:21:13.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Otherwise if you do so Dialogue: 0,0:21:13.55,0:21:15.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the climber falls Dialogue: 0,0:21:15.38,0:21:18.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your hand gets into this awkward position. Dialogue: 0,0:21:18.95,0:21:21.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So instead you reach \Nunder your belaying device Dialogue: 0,0:21:21.28,0:21:23.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you grab the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:21:23.15,0:21:25.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And now if the climber would fall Dialogue: 0,0:21:25.15,0:21:26.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,everything would be fine. Dialogue: 0,0:21:26.76,0:21:29.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All right. Next technique is called PBUS. Dialogue: 0,0:21:29.15,0:21:31.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Which is more commonly used in America. Dialogue: 0,0:21:31.29,0:21:33.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Which means Pull, Break... Dialogue: 0,0:21:33.43,0:21:36.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So basically the same stuff, as before. Dialogue: 0,0:21:36.48,0:21:40.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But now instead of taking over the hand Dialogue: 0,0:21:40.08,0:21:42.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you take Under and Slide. Dialogue: 0,0:21:42.89,0:21:46.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So Pull, Brake, Under, Slide. Dialogue: 0,0:21:46.48,0:21:49.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Pull Brake Under Slide. Dialogue: 0,0:21:49.18,0:21:50.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So the benefit of this technique Dialogue: 0,0:21:50.92,0:21:53.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is your strong hand never leaves the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:21:53.62,0:21:55.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,A little drawback of this technique Dialogue: 0,0:21:55.74,0:21:58.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is when you have weight on the rope, Dialogue: 0,0:21:58.12,0:22:00.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you're trying to take hard, Dialogue: 0,0:22:00.24,0:22:02.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now sliding up this hand Dialogue: 0,0:22:02.88,0:22:05.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is not as comfortable as Dialogue: 0,0:22:05.53,0:22:09.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in hand over hand technique. Dialogue: 0,0:22:09.52,0:22:10.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So at some point Dialogue: 0,0:22:10.94,0:22:14.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as you will be practicing \Nyour p-bus technique Dialogue: 0,0:22:14.09,0:22:15.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you will realize Dialogue: 0,0:22:15.70,0:22:17.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that you don't actually need Dialogue: 0,0:22:17.44,0:22:19.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to bring your left hand down there Dialogue: 0,0:22:19.52,0:22:21.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in order to bring your break hand up. Dialogue: 0,0:22:21.92,0:22:24.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You can simply slide it up. Dialogue: 0,0:22:24.80,0:22:26.63,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And this is a third technique Dialogue: 0,0:22:26.63,0:22:28.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which is called a tunnel technique. Dialogue: 0,0:22:28.61,0:22:30.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And since your left hand Dialogue: 0,0:22:30.24,0:22:32.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,never leaves this rope Dialogue: 0,0:22:32.32,0:22:34.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's the most efficient technique. Dialogue: 0,0:22:34.08,0:22:36.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Because you can always switch between Dialogue: 0,0:22:36.32,0:22:39.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,taking slack and giving slack instantly. Dialogue: 0,0:22:39.60,0:22:41.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So no matter in which Dialogue: 0,0:22:41.25,0:22:43.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,moment of taking slack I am Dialogue: 0,0:22:43.34,0:22:45.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I can always give slack. Dialogue: 0,0:22:45.36,0:22:47.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And contrary any other technique where Dialogue: 0,0:22:47.60,0:22:49.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,my left hand leaves Dialogue: 0,0:22:49.60,0:22:51.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now it needs to go back Dialogue: 0,0:22:51.22,0:22:53.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in order for me to give slack Dialogue: 0,0:22:53.20,0:22:55.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so it's an extra action. Dialogue: 0,0:22:55.04,0:22:57.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Also tunnel technique is the best for Dialogue: 0,0:22:57.28,0:23:00.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,taking small amounts of slack. Dialogue: 0,0:23:00.00,0:23:02.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If I would try to take \Na small amount of slack Dialogue: 0,0:23:02.51,0:23:04.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,continuously with any other technique Dialogue: 0,0:23:04.98,0:23:09.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's a lot of hand movements. Dialogue: 0,0:23:09.84,0:23:13.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,While the tunnel technique\Nit's very relaxed. Dialogue: 0,0:23:13.44,0:23:16.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that's why it's the \Nmost efficient technique. Dialogue: 0,0:23:16.25,0:23:17.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However you might know Dialogue: 0,0:23:17.83,0:23:19.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or maybe you don't Dialogue: 0,0:23:19.10,0:23:21.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this technique is actually not considered Dialogue: 0,0:23:21.62,0:23:25.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,acceptable in some parts of the planet. Dialogue: 0,0:23:25.12,0:23:27.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,With the argument that during the moment Dialogue: 0,0:23:27.76,0:23:30.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where you slide the hand up Dialogue: 0,0:23:30.08,0:23:32.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you don't have a firm grip \Non the brake hand. Dialogue: 0,0:23:32.73,0:23:34.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And during the fall maybe you will Dialogue: 0,0:23:34.80,0:23:36.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not be able to catch the fall. Dialogue: 0,0:23:36.58,0:23:39.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,To which here is my arguments. Dialogue: 0,0:23:39.60,0:23:41.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,First of all if you use Dialogue: 0,0:23:41.44,0:23:43.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,any assisted belaying device Dialogue: 0,0:23:43.52,0:23:45.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you don't even need any Dialogue: 0,0:23:45.60,0:23:47.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hard grip on the brake side of the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:23:47.84,0:23:52.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Any light tug will make the device lock. Dialogue: 0,0:23:52.16,0:23:54.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So this is not an issue immediately. Dialogue: 0,0:23:54.60,0:23:56.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now if you are using a tube Dialogue: 0,0:23:56.25,0:23:57.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I actually went out Dialogue: 0,0:23:57.50,0:23:59.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and did an experiment on this. Dialogue: 0,0:23:59.26,0:24:01.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Where I asked inexperienced belayers Dialogue: 0,0:24:01.38,0:24:03.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to keep moving the hand up and down Dialogue: 0,0:24:03.71,0:24:05.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,while I was distracting them Dialogue: 0,0:24:05.82,0:24:07.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the climber was Dialogue: 0,0:24:07.12,0:24:10.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,taking unexpected falls for them. Dialogue: 0,0:24:10.16,0:24:11.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So stay tuned for that Dialogue: 0,0:24:11.78,0:24:13.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's gonna be really crazy Dialogue: 0,0:24:13.11,0:24:14.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and really interesting episode. Dialogue: 0,0:24:14.99,0:24:17.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But in general when sliding the hand up Dialogue: 0,0:24:17.42,0:24:18.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,don't make a big tunnel. Dialogue: 0,0:24:18.82,0:24:20.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I don't like that this technique Dialogue: 0,0:24:20.34,0:24:22.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is actually called a tunnel method. Dialogue: 0,0:24:22.40,0:24:23.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It shouldn't be a tunnel. Dialogue: 0,0:24:23.94,0:24:26.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You're barely opening the hand just Dialogue: 0,0:24:26.55,0:24:29.47,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,barely enough for it to slide up the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:24:29.47,0:24:30.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And if you are a beginner Dialogue: 0,0:24:30.98,0:24:31.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's really good idea Dialogue: 0,0:24:31.99,0:24:34.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to start practicing with PBUS technique. Dialogue: 0,0:24:34.45,0:24:39.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Because you will be sliding \Nyour hand up the rope a lot Dialogue: 0,0:24:39.04,0:24:42.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with the backup of your other hand. Dialogue: 0,0:24:42.16,0:24:44.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And you will learn the feeling of the Dialogue: 0,0:24:44.24,0:24:46.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope going through your hand. Dialogue: 0,0:24:46.07,0:24:47.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So start with this Dialogue: 0,0:24:47.59,0:24:48.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and once you get Dialogue: 0,0:24:48.70,0:24:51.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,really comfortable with this Dialogue: 0,0:24:51.20,0:24:53.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not bringing the left hand down and just Dialogue: 0,0:24:53.60,0:24:56.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,doing this will feel very natural. Dialogue: 0,0:24:56.32,0:24:58.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,By that point. Dialogue: 0,0:24:58.00,0:24:59.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And just to make sure Dialogue: 0,0:24:59.08,0:25:00.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that I'm not missing something Dialogue: 0,0:25:00.61,0:25:02.100,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in regards of safety \Nof these three techniques Dialogue: 0,0:25:02.100,0:25:04.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I wrote an email to about Dialogue: 0,0:25:04.53,0:25:08.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,25 different climbing safety related Dialogue: 0,0:25:08.06,0:25:10.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,organizations and associations. Dialogue: 0,0:25:10.08,0:25:12.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And asked them \Nto comment on these techniques. Dialogue: 0,0:25:12.51,0:25:14.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Not all of them replied, unfortunately. Dialogue: 0,0:25:14.94,0:25:17.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However out of those who replied Dialogue: 0,0:25:17.34,0:25:19.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,none of them said anything against of Dialogue: 0,0:25:19.88,0:25:21.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,any particular technique. Dialogue: 0,0:25:21.56,0:25:23.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So as long as you follow the Dialogue: 0,0:25:23.20,0:25:25.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,basic guidelines of proper belaying Dialogue: 0,0:25:25.51,0:25:26.77,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you will be fine. Dialogue: 0,0:25:26.77,0:25:27.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Maybe with an exception Dialogue: 0,0:25:27.89,0:25:29.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you're in the US and you need Dialogue: 0,0:25:29.44,0:25:31.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to take a delaying exam. Dialogue: 0,0:25:31.12,0:25:33.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Then you might be forced to use the PBUS. Dialogue: 0,0:25:33.90,0:25:36.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And few more mistakes that people do Dialogue: 0,0:25:36.26,0:25:37.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when they're taking slack. Dialogue: 0,0:25:37.61,0:25:40.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,First of all they take the slack like this Dialogue: 0,0:25:40.48,0:25:43.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or like this... Dialogue: 0,0:25:43.76,0:25:45.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So unless you are using Dialogue: 0,0:25:45.72,0:25:47.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a assisted belaying device Dialogue: 0,0:25:47.27,0:25:48.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you're guaranteed Dialogue: 0,0:25:48.32,0:25:51.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that that device will lock at this angle Dialogue: 0,0:25:51.28,0:25:53.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which I will make a separate video on that Dialogue: 0,0:25:53.91,0:25:55.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you might be in trouble. Dialogue: 0,0:25:55.51,0:25:58.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Second mistake is people hold Dialogue: 0,0:25:58.56,0:26:01.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,both strands of the rope\Nwith the left hand. Dialogue: 0,0:26:01.59,0:26:04.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,They do something like this. Dialogue: 0,0:26:04.48,0:26:06.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The reason why they do this Dialogue: 0,0:26:06.49,0:26:08.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is to prevent the belaying device Dialogue: 0,0:26:08.52,0:26:10.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from falling down there. Dialogue: 0,0:26:10.14,0:26:12.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However to fix that you don't need Dialogue: 0,0:26:12.42,0:26:13.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to hold both strands of the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:26:13.99,0:26:15.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You can just simply Dialogue: 0,0:26:15.06,0:26:16.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hold one strand of the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:26:16.42,0:26:17.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And you will have Dialogue: 0,0:26:17.62,0:26:20.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,exactly the same result. Dialogue: 0,0:26:20.64,0:26:23.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,OK that's a lot of talking \Nabout taking slack. Dialogue: 0,0:26:23.13,0:26:25.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I just felt that that's \Nthe most important part. Dialogue: 0,0:26:25.82,0:26:28.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And the rest will be much more simple. Dialogue: 0,0:26:28.39,0:26:31.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So to give slack you simply \Nreverse the tunneling technique. Dialogue: 0,0:26:31.92,0:26:35.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Where your left hand pulls up\Nwhile your right hand assists. Dialogue: 0,0:26:35.51,0:26:37.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Then the left hand goes down. Dialogue: 0,0:26:37.57,0:26:40.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And you slide the break hand down. Dialogue: 0,0:26:40.21,0:26:42.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And you repeat. Dialogue: 0,0:26:43.68,0:26:46.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And the same technique works with most Dialogue: 0,0:26:46.48,0:26:48.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of assisted belaying devices. Dialogue: 0,0:26:48.40,0:26:50.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,While with some of assisted devices Dialogue: 0,0:26:50.38,0:26:52.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you will need a special action. Dialogue: 0,0:26:52.15,0:26:53.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,With assisted tubers it's common Dialogue: 0,0:26:53.99,0:26:55.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to push them up Dialogue: 0,0:26:55.18,0:26:58.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,while you're giving slack. Dialogue: 0,0:26:58.40,0:27:00.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now in case of the GriGri you can either Dialogue: 0,0:27:00.56,0:27:04.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,use that standard way of giving slack. Dialogue: 0,0:27:04.06,0:27:06.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Or you can press on GriGri's cam Dialogue: 0,0:27:06.24,0:27:07.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and pull the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:27:07.84,0:27:10.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Just don't forget the rule number two. Dialogue: 0,0:27:10.24,0:27:13.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The rope stays in the hand all the time. Dialogue: 0,0:27:13.36,0:27:16.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now in case you need to give \Na lot of slack quickly. Dialogue: 0,0:27:16.45,0:27:18.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Like if the climber is about to clip. Dialogue: 0,0:27:18.53,0:27:20.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You take your left hand Dialogue: 0,0:27:20.32,0:27:21.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,close to belaying device Dialogue: 0,0:27:21.73,0:27:24.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and your break hand \Nfar from belaying device. Dialogue: 0,0:27:24.40,0:27:26.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is important. Only then you can give Dialogue: 0,0:27:26.80,0:27:28.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a lot of slack quickly. Dialogue: 0,0:27:28.96,0:27:31.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If your left hand is somewhere up Dialogue: 0,0:27:31.65,0:27:33.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you will be limited by it Dialogue: 0,0:27:33.23,0:27:36.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how far up you can raise this hand. Dialogue: 0,0:27:36.82,0:27:39.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Equally if your break hand is close Dialogue: 0,0:27:39.74,0:27:41.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you will be limited by that hand Dialogue: 0,0:27:41.68,0:27:43.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how fast you can give slack Dialogue: 0,0:27:43.20,0:27:45.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then you will need to Dialogue: 0,0:27:45.20,0:27:46.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,do more actions. Dialogue: 0,0:27:46.39,0:27:47.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So left hand close, Dialogue: 0,0:27:47.88,0:27:49.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,right hand far. Anticipate. Dialogue: 0,0:27:49.80,0:27:51.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And you can give a lot of slack quickly. Dialogue: 0,0:27:51.74,0:27:53.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And if things go wrong Dialogue: 0,0:27:53.18,0:27:55.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can take all of \Nthat slack quickly back. Dialogue: 0,0:27:55.53,0:27:57.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now when you need to lower the climber Dialogue: 0,0:27:57.43,0:27:58.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you take both of the hands Dialogue: 0,0:27:58.72,0:28:00.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the brake side of the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:28:00.45,0:28:02.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And you use one hand Dialogue: 0,0:28:02.20,0:28:05.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to feed the rope to the other hand. Dialogue: 0,0:28:05.36,0:28:08.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That's one way or if you're comfortable Dialogue: 0,0:28:08.08,0:28:12.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can let the rope slide\Nthrough both of your hands. Dialogue: 0,0:28:12.24,0:28:15.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The risk here is however\Nif you go too fast Dialogue: 0,0:28:15.23,0:28:17.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the rope will go so fast Dialogue: 0,0:28:17.64,0:28:19.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,through both of your hands Dialogue: 0,0:28:19.06,0:28:20.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that it can burn both of them. Dialogue: 0,0:28:20.61,0:28:23.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And then you will probably\Ndrop your climber. Dialogue: 0,0:28:23.36,0:28:24.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So simply don't go fast. Dialogue: 0,0:28:24.96,0:28:28.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There is absolutely no point\Nof lowering a climber fast. Dialogue: 0,0:28:28.30,0:28:29.100,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There is nothing cool about that. Dialogue: 0,0:28:29.100,0:28:32.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It heats your equipment way more, Dialogue: 0,0:28:32.27,0:28:34.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wears down your equipment, it's expensive. Dialogue: 0,0:28:34.44,0:28:36.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And go in a controlled manner. Dialogue: 0,0:28:36.16,0:28:38.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And if you're not sure you can always Dialogue: 0,0:28:38.56,0:28:39.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,feed the rope like so. Dialogue: 0,0:28:39.79,0:28:43.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And in case your climber takes a fall Dialogue: 0,0:28:43.68,0:28:46.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,just hold on the brake side of the rope Dialogue: 0,0:28:46.72,0:28:49.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,even if you have number two in your pants. Dialogue: 0,0:28:49.11,0:28:51.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Hold it. Never let go. Dialogue: 0,0:28:51.30,0:28:54.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And as soon as your climber \Nwill regain the ground Dialogue: 0,0:28:54.80,0:28:58.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and unload the rope\Nmost of the belaying devices Dialogue: 0,0:28:58.02,0:28:59.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will unlock themselves. Dialogue: 0,0:28:59.27,0:29:01.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And you're ready to continue belaying. Dialogue: 0,0:29:01.56,0:29:04.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,While with some devices like Click Up Dialogue: 0,0:29:04.80,0:29:07.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,once it locks you need a special action Dialogue: 0,0:29:07.60,0:29:10.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to unlock it to continue belaying. Dialogue: 0,0:29:10.13,0:29:11.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So as i already said Dialogue: 0,0:29:11.17,0:29:13.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's a good idea to look into the manual Dialogue: 0,0:29:13.18,0:29:14.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of your belaying device Dialogue: 0,0:29:14.32,0:29:18.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to know all these little nuances\Nthat there might be. Dialogue: 0,0:29:18.23,0:29:20.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now if you are teaching beginners Dialogue: 0,0:29:20.35,0:29:22.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or you are a beginner yourself Dialogue: 0,0:29:22.16,0:29:24.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,practice using belaying device Dialogue: 0,0:29:24.22,0:29:26.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the ground, without a climber. Dialogue: 0,0:29:26.79,0:29:29.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And only once you're \Ncompletely comfortable Dialogue: 0,0:29:29.28,0:29:32.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you're ready to go \Nand actually belay somebody Dialogue: 0,0:29:32.00,0:29:33.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,then make sure to have somebody Dialogue: 0,0:29:33.92,0:29:35.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,experienced backing up, Dialogue: 0,0:29:35.75,0:29:37.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,holding on the break side of the rope, Dialogue: 0,0:29:37.78,0:29:42.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and giving you guidance, \Nassistance on your technique. Dialogue: 0,0:29:42.00,0:29:43.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is really important. Dialogue: 0,0:29:43.92,0:29:46.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I actually once saved a climber Dialogue: 0,0:29:46.45,0:29:49.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when inexperienced belayer \Nwas using a GriGri Dialogue: 0,0:29:49.00,0:29:51.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I was backing up the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:29:51.52,0:29:54.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And actually I was the one \Nwho caught the fall. Dialogue: 0,0:29:54.37,0:29:55.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And the full story Dialogue: 0,0:29:55.55,0:29:56.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you're interested is Dialogue: 0,0:29:56.76,0:29:58.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in this video about GriGri. Dialogue: 0,0:29:58.72,0:30:00.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And of course don't take this video Dialogue: 0,0:30:00.43,0:30:02.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as a complete guide into belaying. Dialogue: 0,0:30:02.24,0:30:04.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There is way more things you need to know. Dialogue: 0,0:30:04.30,0:30:06.47,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,From proper slack management Dialogue: 0,0:30:06.47,0:30:09.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to soft catches, to belayer movement, Dialogue: 0,0:30:09.55,0:30:11.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to good communication with your climber. Dialogue: 0,0:30:11.88,0:30:17.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And all of that is coming in the \Nfuture episodes of belay master class. Dialogue: 0,0:30:18.00,0:30:20.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That's a lot of effort to make \Nthese videos to be honest. Dialogue: 0,0:30:20.78,0:30:22.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And this video was Dialogue: 0,0:30:22.24,0:30:24.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,brought to you by Mammut Dialogue: 0,0:30:24.48,0:30:25.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and by all the people Dialogue: 0,0:30:25.96,0:30:27.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,who are supporting me Dialogue: 0,0:30:27.40,0:30:29.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,by visiting my website. Dialogue: 0,0:30:29.26,0:30:31.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So huge thank you for everyone. Dialogue: 0,0:30:31.88,0:30:36.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And see you in the next episode.