[Script Info] Title: [Events] Format: Layer, Start, End, Style, Name, MarginL, MarginR, MarginV, Effect, Text Dialogue: 0,0:00:00.00,0:00:10.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,{\i1}36C3 preroll music{\i0} Dialogue: 0,0:00:13.62,0:00:21.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Herald Angel Noujoum: Hello and \Nwelcome to our next talk, Dialogue: 0,0:00:21.45,0:00:26.63,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Why 3D printing clothes is NOT the future. \NShort question to the audience: Dialogue: 0,0:00:26.63,0:00:32.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Who of you has already 3D printed anything? \NPlease raise your hand. Dialogue: 0,0:00:32.10,0:00:35.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That's what I thought, I estimate that's about \N80 % of the audience in this hall. Dialogue: 0,0:00:35.64,0:00:38.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I am not surprised, it is the topic of this talk, \Nthat's why you are here. Dialogue: 0,0:00:38.86,0:00:41.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Second question: Who of you Dialogue: 0,0:00:41.61,0:00:47.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,has already tried 3D printing clothes?\NPlease raise your hand again. Dialogue: 0,0:00:47.06,0:00:54.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I see four people.\NSo, how did it go? Dialogue: 0,0:00:54.54,0:00:58.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,One person indicates \Nthat it worked out well, Dialogue: 0,0:00:58.08,0:01:02.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the others are showing hand gestures \Nof "not that well". Dialogue: 0,0:01:02.40,0:01:05.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Who of all the people that have \Nalready 3D printed Dialogue: 0,0:01:05.51,0:01:09.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,has thought about printing clothes? Dialogue: 0,0:01:09.93,0:01:12.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Ok, about 10 people have thought \Nabout that. Dialogue: 0,0:01:12.87,0:01:17.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Our next speaker, Rebekka, will tell you \Nwhy it might not be the best idea Dialogue: 0,0:01:17.54,0:01:22.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to 3D print clothes. \NOn the internet Dialogue: 0,0:01:22.32,0:01:27.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and especially Twitter, Rebekka is known\Nby her nickname Kurfuerstin Dialogue: 0,0:01:27.27,0:01:31.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and she is a clothing technician. Her \Nresearch includes Dialogue: 0,0:01:31.62,0:01:35.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,traditional apparel production, she has \Nworked in a fashion company, Dialogue: 0,0:01:35.12,0:01:38.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,at the theater and at a tv show. Dialogue: 0,0:01:38.74,0:01:42.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Also, she is researching innovative \Ntechniques such as 3D printing Dialogue: 0,0:01:42.46,0:01:46.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and virtual clothing simulation, Dialogue: 0,0:01:46.96,0:01:50.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,meaning software that realistically \Nsimulates clothes Dialogue: 0,0:01:50.71,0:01:55.77,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on a virtual avatar. Dialogue: 0,0:01:55.77,0:01:58.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Have fun with the talk , \NI hope you will learn a lot Dialogue: 0,0:01:58.94,0:02:01.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and please welcome Rebekka Dialogue: 0,0:02:01.95,0:02:03.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with a round of applause. \NThank you. Dialogue: 0,0:02:03.66,0:02:08.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,{\i1}applause{\i0} Dialogue: 0,0:02:08.49,0:02:12.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Speaker Rebekka/Kurfuerstin: I just \Nreceived some mail really quick, Dialogue: 0,0:02:12.28,0:02:17.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but that won't stop me from giving \Nmy talk. Welcome, Dialogue: 0,0:02:17.31,0:02:22.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nice to see you all here, in this hall \Nand on the live stream and... Dialogue: 0,0:02:22.14,0:02:26.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,additional mail, okay, a lot happening \Non this stage. I will maybe read that later, Dialogue: 0,0:02:26.48,0:02:33.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but it is great to know that the \Npost office system works! Dialogue: 0,0:02:33.08,0:02:38.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The title of my talk is "Why 3D printing \Nclothes is NOT the future". Dialogue: 0,0:02:38.13,0:02:44.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It will be about the properties of \N3D printed clothes and Dialogue: 0,0:02:44.09,0:02:50.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what would need to happen in order \Nfor it to be a serious alternative Dialogue: 0,0:02:50.60,0:02:54.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for everyday wear. I was just introduced \Nas a clothing technician. Dialogue: 0,0:02:54.40,0:02:57.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In case you don't know what this strange \Ncombination of words means, Dialogue: 0,0:02:57.75,0:03:03.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,clothes and technology, \Na short explanation. Dialogue: 0,0:03:03.69,0:03:07.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,When clothes are made, at one side, Dialogue: 0,0:03:07.32,0:03:12.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you have the design, the idea.\NBut the realization, the production, Dialogue: 0,0:03:12.51,0:03:16.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,happens somewhere else entirely\Nand by some other person. Dialogue: 0,0:03:16.99,0:03:20.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In a simplified way, a person creates \Nthe design for a dress Dialogue: 0,0:03:20.92,0:03:24.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and says: I designed this dress. Dialogue: 0,0:03:24.07,0:03:29.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So they have a nice picture from which \Nyou can learn some information, but not much. Dialogue: 0,0:03:29.52,0:03:33.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And they go to a factory and say: \Nplease make this dress. Dialogue: 0,0:03:33.56,0:03:37.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The production will kindly ask: \Nwhere is the table of information? Dialogue: 0,0:03:37.72,0:03:41.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Because the production site wants to \Nhave all the information about the dress. Dialogue: 0,0:03:41.65,0:03:47.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And the designer then asks: what? \NAnd the production then asks: what? Dialogue: 0,0:03:47.10,0:03:49.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that would be the end of it. Dialogue: 0,0:03:49.92,0:03:53.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Because the factory wants to know, \Nwhich fabric do we need for the dress, Dialogue: 0,0:03:53.53,0:03:58.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and how much? Which sizes will be made, \Nand how many dresses in which sizes? Dialogue: 0,0:03:58.73,0:04:02.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Which machines do we need for that, what \Ntext will be on the care instruction labels Dialogue: 0,0:04:02.36,0:04:05.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and what will be the exact position of the \Nlabels on the side seam in cm? Dialogue: 0,0:04:05.76,0:04:11.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All those questions cannot be answered \Nby the illustration of the dress. Dialogue: 0,0:04:11.36,0:04:14.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that is where clothing technology comes in,\Nas the intersection between design and production. Dialogue: 0,0:04:14.96,0:04:20.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's about the technical feasibility and Dialogue: 0,0:04:20.57,0:04:25.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what needs to be done \Nto manufacture clothes. Dialogue: 0,0:04:25.11,0:04:29.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's about materials, quality, \Nprices and locations. Dialogue: 0,0:04:29.59,0:04:34.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Where should the production take place, \Nand when? Dialogue: 0,0:04:34.71,0:04:37.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All these questions need answers \Nand that is the responsibility Dialogue: 0,0:04:37.61,0:04:43.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of clothing technicians. \NAnd this kind of reality check, Dialogue: 0,0:04:43.17,0:04:48.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the perspective of feasibility, is the perspective \NI also chose to examine 3D printing. Dialogue: 0,0:04:48.38,0:04:52.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If you search for the words "3D print" and \N"clothes", you will get headlines like these. Dialogue: 0,0:04:52.09,0:04:58.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,For example: 3D printing will bring \Nflexibility into the fashion industry. Dialogue: 0,0:04:58.93,0:05:03.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Or: The fashion of the future. Or: Will the \Nstreet wear of the future be 3D printed? Dialogue: 0,0:05:03.11,0:05:08.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Or: Can 3D printing fundamentally \Nchange the fashion industry? Dialogue: 0,0:05:08.02,0:05:12.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,\NA few years ago, the headlines were \Neven more sensational. Dialogue: 0,0:05:12.07,0:05:15.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,They were predicting that by 2020, we \Nwould print a sweater in the morning, Dialogue: 0,0:05:15.76,0:05:19.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,melt it down in the evening and then \Nprint a new one the next day. Dialogue: 0,0:05:19.27,0:05:21.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Nowadays, the predictions have \Nbecome a bit more careful, Dialogue: 0,0:05:21.70,0:05:24.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,at least with a question mark at the end. Dialogue: 0,0:05:24.40,0:05:28.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But even from these headlines, \Nyou get the sense that something Dialogue: 0,0:05:28.89,0:05:33.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will fundamentally change the \Nfashion industry. Dialogue: 0,0:05:33.42,0:05:37.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There is also the hope of \Na sustainable production Dialogue: 0,0:05:37.99,0:05:41.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with the argument, that the procedure \Nof 3D printing is sustainable. Dialogue: 0,0:05:41.18,0:05:45.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Sustainability is a major topic \Nin the fashion industry. Dialogue: 0,0:05:45.29,0:05:48.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The question is if 3D printing \Nmight be the solution. Dialogue: 0,0:05:48.54,0:05:54.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Clothes have already been 3D printed, Dialogue: 0,0:05:54.57,0:05:58.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's not even that new or unrealistic. Dialogue: 0,0:05:58.29,0:06:02.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There are entire 3D printed collections and \NI will show some examples now. Dialogue: 0,0:06:02.30,0:06:07.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In Israel, Danit Peleg printed her entire \Nfinal collection of five outfits. Dialogue: 0,0:06:07.99,0:06:13.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In Israel, Danit Peleg printed her entire \Nfinal collection of five outfits. Dialogue: 0,0:06:13.17,0:06:18.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,One example is the two piece outfit on\Nthe right, a top and a floor length skirt. Dialogue: 0,0:06:18.45,0:06:25.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The skirt has been printed using \Nonly desktop printers, Dialogue: 0,0:06:25.11,0:06:30.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,meaning that it consists of \Nmodules of A4 size Dialogue: 0,0:06:30.17,0:06:34.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that have been connected afterwards. Dialogue: 0,0:06:34.17,0:06:37.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It is flexibel, because it was printed \Nwith a flexible filament, Dialogue: 0,0:06:37.93,0:06:42.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but also because it made up \Nof a zigzag structure Dialogue: 0,0:06:42.16,0:06:45.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that allows for it to pull on it. Dialogue: 0,0:06:45.94,0:06:50.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If you pull it up, it bounces up and down. Dialogue: 0,0:06:50.89,0:06:55.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The jacket is the first \N3D printed ready-to-wear Dialogue: 0,0:06:55.02,0:07:00.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,article of clothing that \Nyou can order online, Dialogue: 0,0:07:00.04,0:07:04.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in limited edition of 100 pieces. Dialogue: 0,0:07:04.97,0:07:10.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It costs 1500 $. Dialogue: 0,0:07:10.40,0:07:13.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You can choose the color and \Nsome writing on the back Dialogue: 0,0:07:13.86,0:07:17.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then the jacket will be \Nprinted in 100 hours. Dialogue: 0,0:07:17.99,0:07:24.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Another example is from the \Ndesign collective Nervous System, Dialogue: 0,0:07:24.11,0:07:28.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,who have developed the Kinematics System. Dialogue: 0,0:07:28.97,0:07:32.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It consists of triangles \Nthat are connected by hinges, Dialogue: 0,0:07:32.91,0:07:38.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,making the whole structure flexible. Dialogue: 0,0:07:38.40,0:07:43.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But it is made of a hard material. \NIt can move, but it is not elastic Dialogue: 0,0:07:43.83,0:07:48.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and it rattles a bit when you move.\NThey also developed an opaque version. Dialogue: 0,0:07:48.53,0:07:53.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,\NThe dress on the right is based\Non the same triangle structure, Dialogue: 0,0:07:53.20,0:07:58.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but there are some kind of \Npetals on top of it. Dialogue: 0,0:07:58.29,0:08:03.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So the dress is opaque. Dialogue: 0,0:08:03.65,0:08:09.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,A third example is the Pangolin Dress Dialogue: 0,0:08:09.53,0:08:13.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which is also made of a structure \Nof interlocked modules Dialogue: 0,0:08:13.16,0:08:16.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that can move on top of \Nand into each other, Dialogue: 0,0:08:16.36,0:08:21.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,thus making the structure flexible. Dialogue: 0,0:08:21.79,0:08:27.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You can move in the dress and the \Ndress adjusts to your movements. Dialogue: 0,0:08:27.45,0:08:31.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,One of the people working on it is \NTravis Fitch, a designer working in New York. Dialogue: 0,0:08:31.15,0:08:35.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I contacted Travis and said: I am a \Nclothing technician, I love numbers. Dialogue: 0,0:08:35.23,0:08:39.47,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,How do you know if a newly developed \Nstructure is suitable for a dress? Dialogue: 0,0:08:39.47,0:08:43.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,How do you know if the elasticity \Nis high enough Dialogue: 0,0:08:43.96,0:08:49.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to use it in a piece of clothing? Dialogue: 0,0:08:49.50,0:08:53.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Do you do laboratory tests? Dialogue: 0,0:08:53.89,0:08:59.63,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And he answered, well, I pull at it and then \NI either say it is okay or not. Dialogue: 0,0:08:59.63,0:09:03.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So the clothing technician in me \Ncame through and said, Dialogue: 0,0:09:03.04,0:09:08.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,well how about numbers? So I offered \Nto test some of his structures, Dialogue: 0,0:09:08.49,0:09:15.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,\Nto conduct some laboratory experiments Dialogue: 0,0:09:15.01,0:09:18.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in order to examine how the properties \Ncan be expressed in numbers and units. Dialogue: 0,0:09:18.93,0:09:23.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Those were only three examples. \NThere are many more Dialogue: 0,0:09:23.32,0:09:29.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on catwalks and in fashion shows. It is clear \Nthat those examples are not everyday wear. Dialogue: 0,0:09:29.07,0:09:34.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,They are special made-to-order products, Dialogue: 0,0:09:34.41,0:09:38.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it takes months to create them, Dialogue: 0,0:09:38.20,0:09:42.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,they consist of 300 different pieces \Nthat need to be assembled. Dialogue: 0,0:09:42.53,0:09:47.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But the headlines about fundamentally \Nchanging the fashion industry Dialogue: 0,0:09:47.19,0:09:50.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are about everyday wear. Dialogue: 0,0:09:50.66,0:09:55.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Custom-made items on a catwalk \Ndo not change the whole industry. Dialogue: 0,0:09:55.04,0:09:58.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Something needs to happen \Nbefore that applies to everyday wear. Dialogue: 0,0:09:58.72,0:10:03.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That is why I ask, what kind of properties \Ndo clothes need to have Dialogue: 0,0:10:03.78,0:10:07.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in order to be everyday wear, \Nmeaning clothes Dialogue: 0,0:10:07.87,0:10:13.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that we can wear every day and \Nfor every occasion? Dialogue: 0,0:10:13.85,0:10:19.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,First of all, clothes need \Nto be comfortable. Dialogue: 0,0:10:19.31,0:10:24.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There are four aspects of wearing comfort. Dialogue: 0,0:10:24.30,0:10:29.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,First, the psychological wearing comfort \Nwhich is about fashion trends, Dialogue: 0,0:10:29.54,0:10:36.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,societal norms and individuality. Dialogue: 0,0:10:36.38,0:10:40.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The fact that I am standing here \Nin a t-shirt and a hoodie Dialogue: 0,0:10:40.24,0:10:44.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is particularly apt for this congress. Dialogue: 0,0:10:44.34,0:10:47.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,On another business conference I might \Nhave worn something different. Dialogue: 0,0:10:47.61,0:10:52.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that people are driving around \Nin onesies and goose costumes Dialogue: 0,0:10:52.36,0:10:57.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is also very specific for this group right here.\N{\i1}laughter{\i0} Dialogue: 0,0:10:57.86,0:11:01.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,What I mean by this is that people feel \Ncomfortable wearing this in this specific context Dialogue: 0,0:11:01.66,0:11:04.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and might not feel at ease \Nin another context, Dialogue: 0,0:11:04.12,0:11:06.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,although the clothes themselves \Nhave not changed. Dialogue: 0,0:11:06.51,0:11:11.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That is the psychological wearing comfort. Dialogue: 0,0:11:11.22,0:11:16.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The next-to-skin-comfort is about \Nthe feeling of something on the skin. Dialogue: 0,0:11:16.31,0:11:21.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Surfaces can be soft or scratchy, \Nthey can also cause allergies. Dialogue: 0,0:11:21.42,0:11:26.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So it is about the direct contact \Non the skin. Dialogue: 0,0:11:26.19,0:11:30.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The physiological wearing comfort is very \Nimportant as well. It's about the climate control Dialogue: 0,0:11:30.93,0:11:35.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of the body and about how clothes can keep \Nus warm but also allow for moisture to evaporate. Dialogue: 0,0:11:35.06,0:11:38.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The human body has this amazing system \Nof protecting us from overheating. Dialogue: 0,0:11:38.89,0:11:44.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We start to sweat and \Nthe moisture evaporates. Dialogue: 0,0:11:44.49,0:11:49.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But the evaporation has to happen \Nthrough the fabric of our clothes. Dialogue: 0,0:11:49.54,0:11:54.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Some clothes allow for better evaporation \Nthan others. Dialogue: 0,0:11:54.10,0:11:58.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This aspect is incredibly important for our \Ncomfort when wearing clothes. Dialogue: 0,0:11:58.87,0:12:05.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The fourth aspect is the \Nergonomical wearing comfort Dialogue: 0,0:12:05.21,0:12:10.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which is about freedom of movement \Nand that is what I examined in detail. Dialogue: 0,0:12:10.81,0:12:14.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Freedom of movement in clothes is \Nachieved by the fit of a piece of clothing, Dialogue: 0,0:12:14.64,0:12:20.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,mainly meaning how tight it is on the body. Dialogue: 0,0:12:20.35,0:12:25.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Secondly, it is achieved by the elasticity \Nof the materials used. Dialogue: 0,0:12:25.86,0:12:29.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is very important because there are parts \Nof our body where we need 50% stretching, Dialogue: 0,0:12:29.38,0:12:35.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for example at our knees and elbows. Dialogue: 0,0:12:35.07,0:12:38.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If you move your arm like this, then the \Nclothes need to allow this movement Dialogue: 0,0:12:38.79,0:12:42.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,without tearing apart. Dialogue: 0,0:12:42.02,0:12:47.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Without elasticity, \Nthe sleeve would be destroyed Dialogue: 0,0:12:47.67,0:12:51.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or would change its form and create buckles. Dialogue: 0,0:12:51.94,0:12:56.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If we have a very tight sleeve Dialogue: 0,0:12:56.57,0:13:00.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,made from a material that is not elastic Dialogue: 0,0:13:00.30,0:13:03.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the sleeve at the elbow would take \Nthe shape of our elbow. Dialogue: 0,0:13:03.49,0:13:07.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So we need a material with \Nthe capability to rebound. Dialogue: 0,0:13:07.80,0:13:10.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,After we have moved the arm like this, \Nthe sleeve at the elbow Dialogue: 0,0:13:10.58,0:13:15.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will go back to its original shape. Dialogue: 0,0:13:15.23,0:13:18.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So if a material is not elastic, \Nit is not that suitable for clothes. Dialogue: 0,0:13:18.73,0:13:22.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It is possible, but then it needs to be \Ncompensated by the cut of the clothes, Dialogue: 0,0:13:22.00,0:13:25.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in that case, it cannot be too tight. \NIf a piece of clothing is loose fit, Dialogue: 0,0:13:25.20,0:13:29.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the elasticity of the fabric \Nis not that important. Dialogue: 0,0:13:29.16,0:13:35.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I wanted to examine the influencing \Nfactors on the elastic properties Dialogue: 0,0:13:35.34,0:13:39.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of 3D printed structures in order \Nto actively influence the elasticity. Dialogue: 0,0:13:39.39,0:13:43.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This could be used Dialogue: 0,0:13:43.32,0:13:47.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to enhance the wearing comfort \Nof 3D printed clothes Dialogue: 0,0:13:47.23,0:13:54.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and thereby get us a bit closer to \N3D printed everyday wear. Dialogue: 0,0:13:54.32,0:13:59.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Elasticity in textile structures, fabrics, \Nis achieved by two aspects. Dialogue: 0,0:13:59.80,0:14:04.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,First, a material itself can be elastic. Dialogue: 0,0:14:04.05,0:14:08.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In fabrics, this is mostly elastane. Dialogue: 0,0:14:08.26,0:14:11.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Elastane can be stretched 300% \Nand will return to its original length. Dialogue: 0,0:14:11.72,0:14:15.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It is used in a majority of clothes, Dialogue: 0,0:14:15.76,0:14:22.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,mostly in the ratio 98% cotton and 2% elastane. Dialogue: 0,0:14:22.86,0:14:26.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,2% are enough to make a shirt \Nelastic enough to easily put it on Dialogue: 0,0:14:26.90,0:14:31.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,while at the same time being tight \Nand not starting to buckle after wearing. Dialogue: 0,0:14:31.97,0:14:36.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The second possibility is structural elasticity. Dialogue: 0,0:14:36.17,0:14:41.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In clothing, this is mainly achieved \Nby creating knitwear. Dialogue: 0,0:14:41.37,0:14:47.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If you pull at knitwear, Dialogue: 0,0:14:47.32,0:14:50.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the loops will change their shape. Dialogue: 0,0:14:50.58,0:14:54.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In this manner, \Nyou can create an elastic structure, Dialogue: 0,0:14:54.87,0:14:59.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,\Neven with materials with low elasticity. Dialogue: 0,0:14:59.90,0:15:04.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,For example, cotton fibers are \Nnot very elastic. But if you create a knitwear Dialogue: 0,0:15:04.99,0:15:07.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,made of cotton threads, \Nthe fabric can be very flexible and elastic. Dialogue: 0,0:15:07.95,0:15:13.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In 3D printed structures, Dialogue: 0,0:15:13.90,0:15:18.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,an elastic material can be used as well, \Nfor example TPU. Dialogue: 0,0:15:18.66,0:15:23.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,TPU is short for thermoplastic polyurethane. \NPolyurethane is a primary part of elastane, too. Dialogue: 0,0:15:23.45,0:15:28.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So TPU and elastane have very similar \Nproperties based on their chemical composition. Dialogue: 0,0:15:28.36,0:15:38.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Structural elasticity is also possible. Dialogue: 0,0:15:38.26,0:15:43.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It is possible to print meshes, Dialogue: 0,0:15:43.68,0:15:48.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but you can also create different shapes\Nlike curves, arches, helices or springs. Dialogue: 0,0:15:48.46,0:15:53.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In short, shapes that you can \Ncompress or pull at, Dialogue: 0,0:15:53.05,0:15:58.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so that you will first pull at the structure \Nbefore pulling at the material itself. Dialogue: 0,0:15:58.35,0:16:02.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However, the design depends \Non the printing method. There are several Dialogue: 0,0:16:02.18,0:16:06.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,different methods and not all of them are \Nequally suited to create certain shapes. Dialogue: 0,0:16:06.38,0:16:11.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,For my research, I focused on two of them. Dialogue: 0,0:16:11.55,0:16:16.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,First, the FLM, \Nshort for fused layer modeling, Dialogue: 0,0:16:16.36,0:16:20.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sometimes also called FDM, \Nshort for fused deposition modeling. Dialogue: 0,0:16:20.78,0:16:25.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You heat a thermoplastic filament Dialogue: 0,0:16:25.20,0:16:29.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and push it through a nozzle Dialogue: 0,0:16:29.76,0:16:33.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The nozzle then lays the strand of material \Non the printing bed. Dialogue: 0,0:16:33.84,0:16:39.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All layers on top of each other \Nmake the object. Dialogue: 0,0:16:39.72,0:16:46.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If an object has an overhang \Nlike the shape on the left, Dialogue: 0,0:16:46.23,0:16:50.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you need support structures. Dialogue: 0,0:16:50.92,0:16:56.03,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In every layer, the extruder will also \Nbuild the supporting columns. Dialogue: 0,0:16:56.03,0:17:00.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,When the object is finished, Dialogue: 0,0:17:00.00,0:17:04.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the support structures can be removed. Dialogue: 0,0:17:04.53,0:17:09.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is not a problem for hard materials, Dialogue: 0,0:17:09.26,0:17:13.77,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can easily break it off \Nand sand the surface. Dialogue: 0,0:17:13.77,0:17:17.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But for elastic materials, \Nit's a different situation. Dialogue: 0,0:17:17.89,0:17:22.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If you pull at it, it will not break off, \Nbut simply stretch. Dialogue: 0,0:17:22.22,0:17:26.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So if you want to print elastic shapes \Nwith overhangs or interlockings, Dialogue: 0,0:17:26.86,0:17:31.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this method is not recommended. Dialogue: 0,0:17:31.76,0:17:34.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The support structures \Ncannot be broken off, Dialogue: 0,0:17:34.70,0:17:38.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,they would have to be cut off \Nwith scissors, Dialogue: 0,0:17:38.38,0:17:41.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so that would take a long time. Dialogue: 0,0:17:41.31,0:17:43.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Interjection: Water soluble support structures! Dialogue: 0,0:17:43.09,0:17:47.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Speaker: Yes, good idea, unfortunately \Nthat does not work for TPU yet. Dialogue: 0,0:17:47.34,0:17:49.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Waterbased support structures \Nare usually made of PVA. Dialogue: 0,0:17:49.89,0:17:54.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can remove them with water afterwards. Dialogue: 0,0:17:54.39,0:18:01.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But the melting temperatures \Nof PVA and TPU do not match. Dialogue: 0,0:18:01.73,0:18:06.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,TPU requires a very high temperature, \NI printed with 215°C. Dialogue: 0,0:18:06.88,0:18:10.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,At this temeprature, PVA is already decomposing, \Nits melting temperature is lower. Dialogue: 0,0:18:10.56,0:18:16.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So it is a good idea, but at the moment \Nit does not work yet. Dialogue: 0,0:18:16.96,0:18:21.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I am sure that something will be developed Dialogue: 0,0:18:21.39,0:18:26.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to solve this problem, though. Dialogue: 0,0:18:26.72,0:18:30.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The other method is SLS, \Nshort for selective laser sintering. Dialogue: 0,0:18:30.41,0:18:34.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,An entire layer of powder is laid \Non the build plate. Dialogue: 0,0:18:34.50,0:18:40.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,A laser melts the fine grain powder in order Dialogue: 0,0:18:40.39,0:18:44.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to create the desired shape layer by layer.\NIn this case, Dialogue: 0,0:18:44.37,0:18:50.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the powder itself is the support structure, \Nso you do not need to print Dialogue: 0,0:18:50.00,0:18:56.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,supporting columns. In the end, the entire \Nprinter is filled with a block of powder Dialogue: 0,0:18:56.48,0:19:00.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and somewhere in there,\Nthe object can be found. Dialogue: 0,0:19:00.79,0:19:06.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The powder is removed and can be reused. Dialogue: 0,0:19:06.97,0:19:13.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,For my research, \NI examined several structures. Dialogue: 0,0:19:13.57,0:19:17.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The ones on the left and in the middle \Nare created from powder. Dialogue: 0,0:19:17.93,0:19:25.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So it was possible to create some height \Nand chain-like shapes. Dialogue: 0,0:19:25.38,0:19:32.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I had different sizes. Dialogue: 0,0:19:32.40,0:19:36.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The smaller size is much more flexible, Dialogue: 0,0:19:36.91,0:19:43.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can easily move it and fold it. Dialogue: 0,0:19:43.07,0:19:46.47,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The modules can be shifted \Ninto each other. Dialogue: 0,0:19:46.47,0:19:51.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You can compress it and pull at it \Nand the structure is very flexible. Dialogue: 0,0:19:51.24,0:19:57.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,As I said, for the other 3D printing method, \Nthe possibilities in shape were limited. Dialogue: 0,0:19:57.67,0:20:01.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This structure is based on a pattern of rhombs \Nthat was extruded. Dialogue: 0,0:20:01.85,0:20:08.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If you pull at it, the shape \Nof the rhomb changes Dialogue: 0,0:20:08.78,0:20:13.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,before the material itself is strained. Dialogue: 0,0:20:13.26,0:20:16.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Again, I had different variations in size and height Dialogue: 0,0:20:16.62,0:20:21.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in order to examine the influencing factors \Non the elastic properties. Dialogue: 0,0:20:21.60,0:20:26.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in order to examine the influencing factors \Non the elastic properties. Dialogue: 0,0:20:26.28,0:20:30.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,How can you examine \Nelastic properties at all? Dialogue: 0,0:20:30.49,0:20:36.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,How can you examine \Nelastic properties at all? Dialogue: 0,0:20:36.22,0:20:41.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,With a so-called tensile test. Dialogue: 0,0:20:41.21,0:20:47.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You don't test a piece of clothing, \Nyou only test a fabric swatch. Dialogue: 0,0:20:47.37,0:20:53.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The swatch is clamped into a tensile test machine \Nwhich then pulls with constant velocity. Dialogue: 0,0:20:53.06,0:20:57.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The corresponding software automatically \Ncreates a diagram like the one on the right. Dialogue: 0,0:20:57.50,0:21:03.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It shows the elongation in %, Dialogue: 0,0:21:03.48,0:21:08.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,meaning how long the fabric swatch \Nhas been stretched, Dialogue: 0,0:21:08.25,0:21:12.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and on the other axis \Nthe tensile strength in N, Dialogue: 0,0:21:12.23,0:21:18.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how much strength is needed in order to \Nachieve this elongation of the fabric swatch. Dialogue: 0,0:21:18.09,0:21:23.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This diagram shows the elongation, \Nthe elasticity and the tensile strength. Dialogue: 0,0:21:23.37,0:21:26.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I need to stress that elongation and \Nelasticity is not the same. Dialogue: 0,0:21:26.82,0:21:33.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You can stretch something and it \Nmight have just gotten longer. Dialogue: 0,0:21:33.16,0:21:37.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If I stretch something Dialogue: 0,0:21:37.49,0:21:41.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and it returns to its original length, \Nit is elastic. Dialogue: 0,0:21:41.18,0:21:45.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So that is a different property, Dialogue: 0,0:21:45.73,0:21:51.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which you can also gather \Nfrom the stress-elongation-diagram. Dialogue: 0,0:21:51.19,0:21:57.03,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I tested all of my structures this way. Dialogue: 0,0:21:57.03,0:22:01.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Of course, you need to test several specimen \Nin order to generate average values. Dialogue: 0,0:22:01.11,0:22:05.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So I had my numbers and units. Dialogue: 0,0:22:05.66,0:22:09.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But what do I do with that? Dialogue: 0,0:22:09.65,0:22:17.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I still need to know if these numbers are \Ngood or bad. There is a recommendation Dialogue: 0,0:22:17.06,0:22:22.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,by the Dialog Textil Bekleidung in cooperation \Nwith the German Fashion Mode Verband, Dialogue: 0,0:22:22.80,0:22:27.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It is not a standard or a law, \Nclothes do not have to have these properties. Dialogue: 0,0:22:27.86,0:22:32.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But it is a recommendation, what stretch properties \Nclothing should approximately have Dialogue: 0,0:22:32.35,0:22:37.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and what kind of forces \Nthey should withstand. Dialogue: 0,0:22:37.64,0:22:41.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is a small extract. \NIt is divided by products, Dialogue: 0,0:22:41.37,0:22:46.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so trousers and skirts have different \Nspecifications opposed to underwear. Dialogue: 0,0:22:46.02,0:22:50.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If it is far from the body, meaning loose fit, \Nlower tensile strengths suffice. Dialogue: 0,0:22:50.30,0:22:54.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If a piece of clothing is loose fit, Dialogue: 0,0:22:54.51,0:23:00.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the stretching properties \Nare not that important. Dialogue: 0,0:23:00.61,0:23:03.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So I compared these numbers to mine \Nand I found Dialogue: 0,0:23:03.27,0:23:08.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that the elongations of my structures \Nwere great. Dialogue: 0,0:23:08.04,0:23:13.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But the maximum force was not reached. Dialogue: 0,0:23:13.59,0:23:18.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So I can stretch my structures just fine, Dialogue: 0,0:23:18.04,0:23:24.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but I do not need a lot of force to tear \Nthem apart and that is a bad result. Dialogue: 0,0:23:24.34,0:23:28.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If I bend my elbow \Nand the sleeve is destroyed, Dialogue: 0,0:23:28.85,0:23:32.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I do not want to use this structure \Nfor clothes. Dialogue: 0,0:23:32.52,0:23:35.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So the tensile strength of the \N3D printed structures is lower Dialogue: 0,0:23:35.87,0:23:41.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,than the recommended \Nproperties for clothes. Dialogue: 0,0:23:41.18,0:23:45.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I also wanted to examine the influencing \Nfactors on the elastic properties. Dialogue: 0,0:23:45.28,0:23:51.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,From my results, I could see that the size of \Nthe modules influences the properties. Dialogue: 0,0:23:51.09,0:23:56.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The larger sizes show higher values \Nthan the smaller variations. Dialogue: 0,0:23:56.93,0:24:01.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However, the larger variations do \Nnot feel and move like fabric. Dialogue: 0,0:24:01.86,0:24:07.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The smaller variations are \Nmore fabric-like, Dialogue: 0,0:24:07.02,0:24:11.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but they didn't show very good \Ntensile strengths. Dialogue: 0,0:24:11.12,0:24:15.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Aside from that, there was another \Ninfluencing factor: the slicing software. Dialogue: 0,0:24:15.24,0:24:23.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The slicing software has two main tasks. Dialogue: 0,0:24:23.30,0:24:29.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Firstly, it slices the object into layers. Secondly, \Nit transfers the information to the 3D printer, Dialogue: 0,0:24:29.30,0:24:34.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where the extruder has to be in order to \Ncreate the shape of each layer. Dialogue: 0,0:24:34.59,0:24:39.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,For example, if you want to print a vase \Nlike the one on the left, the first layer Dialogue: 0,0:24:39.21,0:24:43.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,would be filled completeley, because we want \Nto fill the vase with water and it should not leak. Dialogue: 0,0:24:43.79,0:24:48.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The path of the extruder could look like this, \Nit would go in rows Dialogue: 0,0:24:48.46,0:24:52.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from one side to the other in order to \Ncompletely fill the circle. Dialogue: 0,0:24:52.10,0:24:55.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The second layer would be a ring \Nand the extruder might Dialogue: 0,0:24:55.60,0:25:00.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,take a path like this, but a different \Npath is also possible. Dialogue: 0,0:25:00.97,0:25:07.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There are many different slicing programs \Nwith many setting options. Dialogue: 0,0:25:07.12,0:25:12.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I took a closer look and I found \Nthat the extruder Dialogue: 0,0:25:12.54,0:25:17.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,took a very specific path for \Nmy rhomb structures. Dialogue: 0,0:25:17.82,0:25:23.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It went to the intersection and then \Nturned around. Under the microscope, Dialogue: 0,0:25:23.45,0:25:27.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can see that this is exactly the place \Nwhere the structure was torn apart. Dialogue: 0,0:25:27.62,0:25:33.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The extruder did not cross the \Nintersection even once. Dialogue: 0,0:25:33.19,0:25:37.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,At this point, the strands of material \Nare only connected when a new, Dialogue: 0,0:25:37.19,0:25:40.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hot strand melts a little bit into \Nthe other, already cold one. Dialogue: 0,0:25:40.99,0:25:45.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But due to the fact that the extruder \Ndid not cross the intersection, it created Dialogue: 0,0:25:45.31,0:25:52.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a predetermined breaking point. That \Nis exactly where the structure was torn apart. Dialogue: 0,0:25:52.93,0:25:57.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In another variation that was based on the \Nsame shape, the slicing software decided Dialogue: 0,0:25:57.97,0:26:01.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,something else. The extruder took the path \Nto the bending point of the rhomb. Dialogue: 0,0:26:01.96,0:26:07.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Consequently, this is the point \Nwhere it was torn apart. Dialogue: 0,0:26:07.49,0:26:11.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That is why the test samples look \Ndifferently after the tensile test. Dialogue: 0,0:26:11.87,0:26:18.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That also explains the low tensile \Nstrength of the structures. Dialogue: 0,0:26:18.85,0:26:21.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The tensile test machine did not pull at the \Nmaterial as much as at these connection points Dialogue: 0,0:26:21.93,0:26:28.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and depending on how strong these are, Dialogue: 0,0:26:28.34,0:26:33.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the structure can be torn apart easily. Dialogue: 0,0:26:33.55,0:26:37.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This means that the method itself \Nlimits the tensile strength. Dialogue: 0,0:26:37.68,0:26:42.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, I tested eight different structures,\Neight different variations. Dialogue: 0,0:26:42.81,0:26:46.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You might ask now how I came to the \Nconclusion that 3D printing clothes Dialogue: 0,0:26:46.31,0:26:53.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is not recommended in general. Dialogue: 0,0:26:53.08,0:26:58.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Maybe a different structure would show \Na higher tensile strength. Dialogue: 0,0:26:58.75,0:27:03.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Yes, maybe. But the method itself creates \Nlimitations concerning the properties. Dialogue: 0,0:27:03.61,0:27:09.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We have to go deeper and look \Nat the molecules. Dialogue: 0,0:27:09.90,0:27:16.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Textile fibers naturally have a \Nvery high tensile strength. Dialogue: 0,0:27:16.58,0:27:24.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,On the inside, natural fibers like cotton, \Nwool or linen show a regular Dialogue: 0,0:27:24.29,0:27:30.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,arrangement of molecular chains. Dialogue: 0,0:27:30.24,0:27:36.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There are amorphous parts \Nand crystalline parts. Dialogue: 0,0:27:36.30,0:27:42.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The strands that you can see on the \Nright depict molecular chains. Dialogue: 0,0:27:42.16,0:27:46.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The amorphous parts, \Nwhere the molecules are Dialogue: 0,0:27:46.62,0:27:51.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tangled like a plate of spaghetti, \Nare not stable. Dialogue: 0,0:27:51.00,0:27:57.63,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The crystalline parts, where they show a \Nregular arrangement, are stable. Dialogue: 0,0:27:57.63,0:28:03.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Natural fibers show a high degree of \Ncrystalline parts which translates Dialogue: 0,0:28:03.86,0:28:09.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to a high tensile strength. Fibers naturally \Nshow higher tensile strengths Dialogue: 0,0:28:09.04,0:28:13.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,than my 3D printed structures \Ncould ever have. Dialogue: 0,0:28:13.86,0:28:17.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And for synthetic fibers, there are \Nmeasures we can take to even influence Dialogue: 0,0:28:17.51,0:28:24.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and increase the tensile strength. Dialogue: 0,0:28:24.13,0:28:30.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There are several ways to spin a fiber, \Nat least one of them is very similar to 3D printing. Dialogue: 0,0:28:30.54,0:28:37.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You melt synthetic material and press it \Nthrough a nozzle. Dialogue: 0,0:28:37.40,0:28:40.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The extruded strand is the fiber. Dialogue: 0,0:28:40.98,0:28:45.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The difference is that you have several \Npossibilities to influence the property Dialogue: 0,0:28:45.32,0:28:48.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of the extruded strand or fiber. Dialogue: 0,0:28:48.82,0:28:53.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The degree of crystallinity depends on \Nthe rate of controlled cooling. Dialogue: 0,0:28:53.88,0:28:59.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The slower a fiber cools off the more \Ntime do the molecular chains have Dialogue: 0,0:28:59.75,0:29:04.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to arrange themselves regularly. Dialogue: 0,0:29:04.01,0:29:07.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That is why the spinning chambers \Nare really hot Dialogue: 0,0:29:07.85,0:29:12.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in order to allow for a very slow rate \Nof controlled cooling Dialogue: 0,0:29:12.69,0:29:18.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so that the fibers show high degrees of \Ncrystallinity, resulting in high tensile strengths. Dialogue: 0,0:29:18.74,0:29:22.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We do not have this opportunity \Nin 3D printing. Dialogue: 0,0:29:22.50,0:29:26.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We can use a heated build plate. But that Dialogue: 0,0:29:26.78,0:29:30.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,only influences the first few layers. Dialogue: 0,0:29:30.88,0:29:35.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Besides, we need the printed strands to Dialogue: 0,0:29:35.30,0:29:40.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,cool off quickly so that they keep their shape. Dialogue: 0,0:29:40.29,0:29:46.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We can only print the next layer Dialogue: 0,0:29:46.81,0:29:49.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if the layer underneath \Nhas already hardened. Dialogue: 0,0:29:49.18,0:29:54.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We cannot keep a constant high temperature \Nlike we can in the spinning chamber. Dialogue: 0,0:29:54.16,0:29:58.47,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The SLS method allows \Nfor better conditions Dialogue: 0,0:29:58.47,0:30:03.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,concerning the tensile strength Dialogue: 0,0:30:03.22,0:30:07.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the structures did show better values. Dialogue: 0,0:30:07.15,0:30:11.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We have a second possibility to increase the \Ntensile strength of synthetic fibers Dialogue: 0,0:30:11.41,0:30:15.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which is by stretching them \Nafter spinning. Dialogue: 0,0:30:15.27,0:30:21.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The fibers are guided through cylinders \Nand subjected to tensile forces. Dialogue: 0,0:30:21.02,0:30:31.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This increases the degree of \Ncrystallinity even more. Dialogue: 0,0:30:31.46,0:30:36.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The molecules are forced \Nto align even more. Dialogue: 0,0:30:36.38,0:30:40.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This decreases the fiber diameter and \Nmakes the fiber more fine, softer Dialogue: 0,0:30:40.18,0:30:45.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and at the same time stronger. Dialogue: 0,0:30:45.84,0:30:50.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That explains why textile fibers have \Nmuch higher tensile strengths Dialogue: 0,0:30:50.70,0:30:56.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,while at the same time being much finer \Nthan anything you can 3D print at the moment. Dialogue: 0,0:30:56.31,0:30:59.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Furthermore, textile fibers have the advantageous \Ncapability of warming us by isolating air. Dialogue: 0,0:30:59.98,0:31:03.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Every little chamber that can entrap air \Nturns a fabric into a warming structure Dialogue: 0,0:31:03.70,0:31:09.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when worn on the body. \NFabrics consist of threads Dialogue: 0,0:31:09.10,0:31:13.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and threads consist of fibers, Dialogue: 0,0:31:13.83,0:31:18.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as you can see on this microscope picture. Dialogue: 0,0:31:18.17,0:31:21.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's not a picture of a carpet, \Nit's fabric Dialogue: 0,0:31:21.56,0:31:29.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the little single fibers would not be \Nvisible with the naked eye. Dialogue: 0,0:31:29.14,0:31:33.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The gaps between the fibers \Nisolate air. Dialogue: 0,0:31:33.78,0:31:38.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,At the same time, the gaps are important \Nfor the transportation of moisture. Dialogue: 0,0:31:38.00,0:31:41.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Sweat can evaporate and go through the fabric.\NIn conclusion, Dialogue: 0,0:31:41.13,0:31:46.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fabrics can warm us and at the same time \Nprotect us against overheating. Dialogue: 0,0:31:46.22,0:31:51.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,At the moment, we cannot 3D print such fine \Nminiature fibers. We are still quite limited Dialogue: 0,0:31:51.35,0:31:58.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when it comes to fineness. We cannot efficiently \N3D print chambers to entrap air Dialogue: 0,0:31:58.43,0:32:04.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like the ones we can find in fabrics \Nmade of textile fibers. Dialogue: 0,0:32:04.06,0:32:08.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Some things cannot be done yet \Nin 3D printing. But what can we do Dialogue: 0,0:32:08.97,0:32:15.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in 3D printing instead? We have an immense \Nfreedom of design that can be applied Dialogue: 0,0:32:15.22,0:32:20.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,mostly in shoes and accessories, Dialogue: 0,0:32:20.68,0:32:24.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for example bracelets, necklaces \Nor glasses. Dialogue: 0,0:32:24.65,0:32:29.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The benefits can be used for costumes. Dialogue: 0,0:32:29.45,0:32:34.100,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,For example, in the movie "Black Panther", \Nseveral crowns were 3D printed. Dialogue: 0,0:32:34.100,0:32:39.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Theoretically, the process is sustainable, Dialogue: 0,0:32:39.52,0:32:44.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,just because it is additive manufacturing. Dialogue: 0,0:32:44.08,0:32:48.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Material is only built where it is needed \Nfor the desired shape. Dialogue: 0,0:32:48.06,0:32:53.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is in stark contrast to the \Nproduction of clothes. Dialogue: 0,0:32:53.91,0:32:58.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,When you cut the fabric, you can achieve \Na utilization ratio of maybe 90%. Dialogue: 0,0:32:58.62,0:33:03.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Just because pattern pieces \Nhave many different shapes, Dialogue: 0,0:33:03.26,0:33:07.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,10% of the fabric is thrown away. Dialogue: 0,0:33:07.28,0:33:15.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,3D printing is more sustainable \Nin this aspect. Dialogue: 0,0:33:15.02,0:33:17.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Also, the materials can be reused. Dialogue: 0,0:33:17.90,0:33:20.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Recycling is another problem \Nin the fashion industry. Dialogue: 0,0:33:20.87,0:33:24.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So it is a good thing that you can \Nreuse the powder after printing. Dialogue: 0,0:33:24.44,0:33:30.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,3D printing is also very suitable for \Nmade-to-order production. Dialogue: 0,0:33:30.27,0:33:34.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In the fashion industry, made-to-order \Nitems always lead to high costs. Dialogue: 0,0:33:34.53,0:33:38.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Also, it is possible to create different \Nmaterial properties in the same product. Dialogue: 0,0:33:38.91,0:33:42.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,When I have the shoulder Dialogue: 0,0:33:42.76,0:33:47.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and want it to be a bit more firm, Dialogue: 0,0:33:47.28,0:33:50.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I can already prepare that in the \N3D model. I can decide Dialogue: 0,0:33:50.80,0:33:54.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to create more layers. If I created the same \Npiece of clothing in fabric, Dialogue: 0,0:33:54.62,0:33:58.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I would need to have a seam, I would reinforce \Nit with another fabric Dialogue: 0,0:33:58.32,0:34:02.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or another layer of fabric. Using a 3D printer, \Nthis could happen in the same step. Dialogue: 0,0:34:02.44,0:34:07.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Theoretically, it is also possible to \Nintegrate additional functions Dialogue: 0,0:34:07.05,0:34:13.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like cables, LED or sensors. Dialogue: 0,0:34:13.29,0:34:18.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There is still a question mark \Nbehind that. Dialogue: 0,0:34:18.44,0:34:22.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,First of all, this would not \Nbe everyday wear, Dialogue: 0,0:34:22.53,0:34:28.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and secondly, this is not \Nstate of the art yet. Dialogue: 0,0:34:28.79,0:34:33.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Another benefit might be to create the \Nwhole garment in one step. Dialogue: 0,0:34:33.17,0:34:36.77,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Right now, a fabric is created out of \Nthreads out of textile fibers. Dialogue: 0,0:34:36.77,0:34:39.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Then, the fabric needs to be cut, the \Npieces need to be sewn together, Dialogue: 0,0:34:39.33,0:34:42.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,maybe it is dyed after that. \NDifferent processes, Dialogue: 0,0:34:42.07,0:34:46.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,executed at different locations.\NWith 3D printing, Dialogue: 0,0:34:46.37,0:34:52.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,everything could happen in the same step. Dialogue: 0,0:34:52.09,0:34:56.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But only if the garment can fit into \Nthe build volume of a printer. Dialogue: 0,0:34:56.12,0:35:00.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If we print A4 sized pieces and \Nassemble them afterwards, Dialogue: 0,0:35:00.23,0:35:04.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we are still in the same situation of \Nhaving to connect many pieces. Dialogue: 0,0:35:04.55,0:35:11.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The software developed by Nervous System \Nis a smarter solution. Dialogue: 0,0:35:11.23,0:35:15.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The software digitally folds the dress. \NThe dress is then printed in the folded state, Dialogue: 0,0:35:15.29,0:35:20.03,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,significantly reducing \Nthe needed build volume. Dialogue: 0,0:35:20.03,0:35:25.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The dress is hidden somewhere \Nin the block of powder. Dialogue: 0,0:35:25.96,0:35:29.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The powder is removed, \Na bit like in archeology, Dialogue: 0,0:35:29.81,0:35:34.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the dress will get cleaned off \Nand opened. Dialogue: 0,0:35:34.09,0:35:37.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is a good option to really \Nuse the benefits of 3D printing. Dialogue: 0,0:35:37.41,0:35:46.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The disadvantages or challenges are Dialogue: 0,0:35:46.52,0:35:51.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the insufficient tensile strength,\Nresulting from the process itself Dialogue: 0,0:35:51.19,0:35:56.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and there is not a lot we can \Ndo about it. We are still very limited Dialogue: 0,0:35:56.18,0:36:03.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in terms of fineness. The standard nozzle \Ndiameter is 0.4 millimeters. Dialogue: 0,0:36:03.34,0:36:08.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Fiber diameters are more \Nin the micrometer range. Dialogue: 0,0:36:08.70,0:36:13.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That is a significant difference. The fineness \Nis very important for the next-to-skin-comfort, Dialogue: 0,0:36:13.56,0:36:17.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for the transportation of moisture and for \Nthe capability to warm us. Dialogue: 0,0:36:17.92,0:36:24.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is fundamental and without it, \Nthe aspects of wearing comfort Dialogue: 0,0:36:24.72,0:36:31.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,cannot be guaranteed \Nwhen we 3D print textile structures. Dialogue: 0,0:36:31.26,0:36:36.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Time and costs are still \Nquite problematic in 3D printing. Dialogue: 0,0:36:36.12,0:36:40.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It takes af long time \Nand it is very expensive. Dialogue: 0,0:36:40.65,0:36:45.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Again, this is not suitable for \Neveryday wear, only for individual pieces. Dialogue: 0,0:36:45.10,0:36:48.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We also still have to discuss \Ncare instructions. Dialogue: 0,0:36:48.01,0:36:51.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Can you wash a 3D printed garment \Nat all? If I wear a piece of clothing every day, Dialogue: 0,0:36:51.38,0:36:54.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I want to be able to wash it. Dialogue: 0,0:36:54.59,0:36:58.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,When we talk about garments, \Nwe also need to talk about fastenings, Dialogue: 0,0:36:58.08,0:37:02.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you need to somehow get inside \Nthe piece of clothing. Dialogue: 0,0:37:02.14,0:37:06.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, zippers, buttons, hooks, eyelets, \Nall of this needs to be thought of Dialogue: 0,0:37:06.25,0:37:12.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if we want to print \Neverything in one piece. Dialogue: 0,0:37:12.75,0:37:17.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In conclusion, the construction of fabrics \Nmade from threads made from fibers Dialogue: 0,0:37:17.09,0:37:23.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is still unbeatable in regards of \Nwearing comfort. Dialogue: 0,0:37:23.17,0:37:28.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There are not yet applicable solutions Dialogue: 0,0:37:28.38,0:37:40.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to imitate the properties in 3D printing. Dialogue: 0,0:37:40.37,0:37:44.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,At the current state of the art, \N3D printed clothes are not only not the future, Dialogue: 0,0:37:44.48,0:37:47.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,they aren't even the present.\NBecause the present means Dialogue: 0,0:37:47.26,0:37:50.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fabrics made of textile fibers and that \Nworks really well for our wearing comfort. Dialogue: 0,0:37:50.93,0:37:55.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,3D printed structure cannot \Nprovide that yet. Dialogue: 0,0:37:55.43,0:37:58.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That does not mean that we \Nshould stop the research. Dialogue: 0,0:37:58.66,0:38:01.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Whoever said before that they had \Nsuccess when printing clothes, Dialogue: 0,0:38:01.26,0:38:04.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I am very interested to hear about that.\NMaybe there are some aspects Dialogue: 0,0:38:04.76,0:38:11.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that I have not thought about.\NBut we should not forget Dialogue: 0,0:38:11.59,0:38:17.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the basic function of clothes. The 3D \Nprinted clothes that I showed in the beginning, Dialogue: 0,0:38:17.46,0:38:21.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,those are amazing artworks, I love \Nthem and I want to see more of them. Dialogue: 0,0:38:21.80,0:38:24.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But I want to remind everyone that \Nclothes should warm us, Dialogue: 0,0:38:24.82,0:38:28.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that in general, it should be opaque \Nand that the climate exchange Dialogue: 0,0:38:28.17,0:38:33.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the transportation of moisture has \Nto be guaranteed. I find it a bit difficult Dialogue: 0,0:38:33.84,0:38:38.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to put so much hope on 3D printing Dialogue: 0,0:38:38.37,0:38:44.03,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to fundamentally change \Nthe whole fashion industry. Dialogue: 0,0:38:44.03,0:38:49.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Because the fashion industry has \Na lot of serious problems, Dialogue: 0,0:38:49.37,0:38:53.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ecological problems, Dialogue: 0,0:38:53.58,0:38:57.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but also social and societal problems. Dialogue: 0,0:38:57.25,0:39:01.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But I don't think we should simply hope \Nto develop new technologies Dialogue: 0,0:39:01.23,0:39:04.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and tell us that the sustainability problem \Ncan be solved by 3D printing Dialogue: 0,0:39:04.44,0:39:09.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,all of our clothes. Please conduct \Nfurther research. Dialogue: 0,0:39:09.85,0:39:15.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But please don't forget the basic \Nfunctions of clothes and do not think Dialogue: 0,0:39:15.83,0:39:20.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that a new technology will solve all the \Nproblems of the fashion industry. Dialogue: 0,0:39:20.32,0:39:27.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I advise everyone \Nto revolutionize the fashion industry. Dialogue: 0,0:39:27.14,0:39:32.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But please do not think that 3D printing \Nis the universal solution for that. Dialogue: 0,0:39:32.65,0:39:36.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And now I am finished with my \Npresentation and I thank you all for listening. Dialogue: 0,0:39:36.78,0:39:47.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,{\i1}applause{\i0} Dialogue: 0,0:39:47.16,0:39:49.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Herald Angel Noujoum: Yes, thank you, \Nthat was quite a precision landing, I'm afraid Dialogue: 0,0:39:49.91,0:39:52.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we don't have time left for questions, I am sorry \Nto everyone flocking to the microphones right now. Dialogue: 0,0:39:52.83,0:39:57.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But you can see here where you can \Ntalk to Rebekka, Dialogue: 0,0:39:57.33,0:40:01.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can find her and ask her questions \Non Twitter under @Kurfuerstin. Dialogue: 0,0:40:01.41,0:40:04.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You can also talk to her right now after \Nthe talk. Maybe not right here, Dialogue: 0,0:40:04.33,0:40:07.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but somewhere in the back. \NShe also needs to read her post cards. Dialogue: 0,0:40:07.33,0:40:10.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm sure there will be time \Nand the possibility Dialogue: 0,0:40:10.78,0:40:14.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to talk to her or each other about \N3D printing and 3D printed clothes. Dialogue: 0,0:40:14.60,0:40:17.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Please give another round of applause. Dialogue: 0,0:40:17.56,0:40:18.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,{\i1}applause{\i0} Dialogue: 0,0:40:18.67,0:40:22.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,{\i1}postroll music{\i0} Dialogue: 0,0:40:22.28,0:40:30.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Subtitles created by c3subtitles.de in 2020. \NJoin us!