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so here is a cool fact
rope manufacturers claim that no matter
what fall you will take on a dynamic
climbing rope
the impact
is unlikely to injure you
that was sick
so how does it feel this
impact on a huge outside whipper
or this is even better how does it feel
to fall while trying to clip a second
quick draw and get a really hard catch
so can this impact injure you does it
hurt
or
even better
how does it feel when i'm trying to
explain all of this
and almost kill myself
so yeah that happened and it all started
with my wish to measure the forces of
really really hard climbing falls
and knowing these forces allow me and
probably others to answer a lot of
important questions for us climbers
like can you break a dynamic climbing
rope which is really really worn out
on realistic climbing falls
some people
would say that it is impossible to break
this rope while others would freak out
seeing this
because it doesn't look that great to be
honest
so stick with me the answer to this is
coming
and it actually surprised me a lot
but now back to hard falls
so in previous episode we went to a
small climbing gym in germany and we
tried to create the hardest climbing fall
by creating a ton of drag
and belaying in some crazy crazy ways
and then i had a quiz for you
which fall do you think was harder for the climber
this crazy slam
or this big outdoors whipper
so if you think that the big fall
looks softer
good because i thought exactly the same
thing and pretty much any person to whom
i showed these two clips
i'm gonna show you two falls
and you can try to guess which one was
harder to the climber - okay
yeah i can already tell you
well theoretically i would say that the
second one in the gym is the harder fall
because it's a shorter rope that can
absorb or a shorter portion of the rope
will absorb the energy
since there's so much zigzag happening
in the rope line and therefore yeah not
the entire rope that is actually used
so let's see if that's actually true
[Music]
that was sick
[Music]
that was sick
that was like a massive fall
it was
falling was nice
how big you think the fall was
how hard to say i will say like
eight meters maybe
it looked massive from the side it
looked massive
maybe 10
i don't know
do you think it's more than 10
yeah from the side it looks massive
I think more it was more to 15 i would say
you know
you don't think so 15
no i don't think so i don't think so
yeah judging the distance of
the fall is always tricky but by my best
estimation before the fall he was around
two and a half meters above the bolt and
after the fall he was about eight meters
below the bolt so let's say 10 meters
and this 10 meters fall resulted into
3.4 kilonewtons of force and if we
compare that to the jim slam
that slam was only 2.6 kilonewtons and
the hardest fall in the gym that day we
got was 2.9 kilonewtons this one
so does it mean that this huge whipper
was harder than the slam
it doesn't look like that right
and to make sense out of all of this we
need to define what does it mean harder
what we measured is the peak force to
the climber's harness and this peak
force happens around this moment
[Music]
and if you look closely this doesn't
look that bad
and what gets our attention is actually
the contact to the wall imagine if this
wall would have been not overhanging
then the peak force on the dynamometer
to the climber's harness would read
exactly the same but the slam to the
wall would be much worse and that's by
the way how most of the people sprain
their ankles shortfall hard catch
super quick slam into the wall so how
hard the fall for the climber is will
depend on two things first is the
initial impact to the harness this
that we measured to be around three to
three and a half kilonewtons on hard
falls let's test how three kilonewtons
feels
on the harness
don't do this at home
ouch
told you not to do this at home
listen learned
falling on a single bolt on three
kilonewtons of force
can make an entire bolt come out
of
18 millimeters of shitty spanish plywood
so
the impact was
okay
but the landing on the ass was
not so okay
all right
don't do this at home number two
since i really want to experience three
or three and a half kilonewtons of force
to my harness so i can tell you
how that feels
i rigged another system
which is
hopefully not gonna end up like the
first one
this time it's very static but it
doesn't matter
i just want to feel it
wow
that was 3.8
kilonewtons
and actually that felt quite okay
3.1 kilonewtons
and i barely feel anything
three and a half
okay this was almost four kilonewtons so
under three kilonewtons
i don't feel anything between three and
four i get a little but that's far from
injuring me
and
my homemade climbing wall breaks at
3.8 kilonewtons to default which would
be around 2 kilonewtons to the climber
so
my homemade climbing
wall is not for
falling and the second thing that the
climber will experience is of course the
impact to the wall which as we saw might
be problematic in fact let's zoom in on
the big fall and watch it couple of
times
and now let's compare it to the gym fall
so as you can see it's not that easy to
tell which one was actually harder and
it also depends a lot on climbers skills
to absorb the impact with his legs as a
climber you basically need to be like a
cat when you hit the wall super soft and
people who do a lot of baldering they
tend to be much better because they fall
on the crash pads a lot
and falling on a crash but with stiff
legs would probably kill you so the same
applies to falling on ropes you want to
absorb the impact as soft as possible
and of course there are other factors
that contribute to how hard you will
slam to the wall for example jumping
away or pushing yourself away from the
wall as i talked in the previous episode
or
belaying in really hard ways in gym case
we created a hard catch on purpose
however on outdoors whipper the belayer
was standing and doing nothing
handbag
and i have a separate video coming where
i will show that standing and doing
nothing creates much harder catch than
pretty much any soft delaying method you
can try so although this belay didn't
looked hard it was definitely possible
to make it much softer but this was
actually perfect because i got the force
to the climber on big whipper on hardish
catch
totally realistic scenario and that's
actually not all
in the following months i was going
around and making a ton of experiments
[Music]
during which i recorded the forces to
the climber on over hundreds of faults
and even ryan sent me some clips of his
to compare the datum
oh
oh that was better than wheaties in the
morning
i hit 1.14 i got 2.64 and the hardest
fall i recorded was this one
[Music]
okay okay you saved me
this is the hardest recording you've got
3.60
so in this case we were filming an
episode of how to belay sketchy close to
the ground falls
the climber was clipping the second
quick draw above his head and takes a
fall
[Music]
so that's another sneak peek into the
future what's coming on my channel and
if you don't want to miss that i hope
that you do youtube things and subscribe
and click all of these bells and stuff
but for now i can say that unless the
climber is really really heavy
or we are in some unlucky multi-pitch
scenario which i haven't had time yet to
experiment with creating a fall which
would be harder than four kilonewtons
to the climber
is really really unlikely and that's
really good to know because it just
shows how great the climbing ropes are
at keeping us safe as i've just
demonstrated here four kilonewtons to
climbers harness is not really something
we should worry about unless of course
it's accompanied by a
slam to the wall and that brings me to
the original question
can i snap this very worn out rope on
the realistic climbing fall
or now i can rephrase the question can i
snap this rope on forces below 4
kilonewtons to the rope and the answer
to this surprised me a lot i had a
chance to hang out with mamamoo
engineers and test this
and also ask pretty much any question i
wanted and man that was super
interesting so i recommend to not miss
the next episode and until then i'm
gonna leave you with somebody who really
likes challenges
okay
that left hand is 29.
no i think sitting is better it's all
about technique
[Music]
it's better it's 8 68 now
okay pressing as hard as you can with
one hand
[Music]
he's going slow
he's he's weaker than i
yeah
really
what
how how much do you do i don't say it ah
and to make this competition a little
bit more fair i decided to split it into
1 000 for guys and 1 000 for girls and
to make it even more interesting girls
can win both categories of course if
there is a girl who is stronger than
the guys
not better yeah you can grab in any way
you like
any recommendation
oh no it's a competition i don't give
any hands
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everybody tries to go slow first what's
this i'm so much better
[Music]
oh
the good technique was funny
it's going to be worse
yeah
50.
where is the power screen oh my god oh
my god
oh you have seventy
you have seventy even the dog
congratulations
or no boxing techniques right
watch out my mind
oh it works the boxing technique works
it's all about technique you like the
boxing kidneys somehow
you want to try boxing
technique it's my best
by the way did you notice that this
episode had no annoying ads
this is thanks to people like this guy
[Applause]
you