0:00:00.000,0:00:01.280 [Music] 0:00:01.280,0:00:03.840 so here is a cool fact 0:00:03.840,0:00:06.560 rope manufacturers claim that no matter 0:00:06.560,0:00:09.280 what fall you will take on a dynamic 0:00:09.280,0:00:10.719 climbing rope 0:00:10.719,0:00:12.320 the impact 0:00:12.320,0:00:17.080 is unlikely to injure you 0:00:18.320,0:00:20.000 that was sick 0:00:20.000,0:00:21.680 so how does it feel this 0:00:21.680,0:00:26.320 impact on a huge outside whipper 0:00:26.320,0:00:29.439 or this is even better how does it feel 0:00:29.439,0:00:32.239 to fall while trying to clip a second 0:00:32.239,0:00:37.680 quick draw and get a really hard catch 0:00:39.440,0:00:42.480 so can this impact injure you does it 0:00:42.480,0:00:44.559 hurt 0:00:44.559,0:00:45.440 or 0:00:45.440,0:00:46.879 even better 0:00:46.879,0:00:48.719 how does it feel when i'm trying to 0:00:48.719,0:00:50.800 explain all of this 0:00:50.800,0:00:54.320 and almost kill myself 0:00:55.840,0:00:59.680 so yeah that happened and it all started 0:00:59.680,0:01:02.879 with my wish to measure the forces of 0:01:02.879,0:01:06.080 really really hard climbing falls 0:01:06.080,0:01:08.799 and knowing these forces allow me and 0:01:08.799,0:01:11.040 probably others to answer a lot of 0:01:11.040,0:01:13.760 important questions for us climbers 0:01:13.760,0:01:16.799 like can you break a dynamic climbing 0:01:16.799,0:01:21.759 rope which is really really worn out 0:01:23.600,0:01:26.399 on realistic climbing falls 0:01:26.399,0:01:27.300 some people 0:01:27.300,0:01:29.920 would say that it is impossible to break 0:01:29.920,0:01:32.400 this rope while others would freak out 0:01:32.400,0:01:33.680 seeing this 0:01:33.680,0:01:35.920 because it doesn't look that great to be 0:01:35.920,0:01:37.119 honest 0:01:37.119,0:01:40.000 so stick with me the answer to this is 0:01:40.000,0:01:41.040 coming 0:01:41.040,0:01:45.280 and it actually surprised me a lot 0:01:45.280,0:01:49.680 but now back to hard falls 0:01:53.119,0:01:55.360 so in previous episode we went to a 0:01:55.360,0:01:58.000 small climbing gym in germany and we 0:01:58.000,0:02:00.799 tried to create the hardest climbing fall 0:02:00.799,0:02:03.680 by creating a ton of drag 0:02:03.680,0:02:09.079 and belaying in some crazy crazy ways 0:02:11.200,0:02:13.440 and then i had a quiz for you 0:02:13.440,0:02:16.890 which fall do you think was harder for[br]the climber 0:02:16.890,0:02:19.520 this crazy slam 0:02:19.520,0:02:24.319 or this big outdoors whipper 0:02:29.920,0:02:33.280 so if you think that the big fall 0:02:33.280,0:02:35.200 looks softer 0:02:35.200,0:02:38.000 good because i thought exactly the same 0:02:38.000,0:02:40.720 thing and pretty much any person to whom 0:02:40.720,0:02:42.485 i showed these two clips 0:02:42.485,0:02:44.119 i'm gonna show you two falls 0:02:44.140,0:02:46.080 and you can try to guess which one was 0:02:46.080,0:02:48.400 harder to the climber [br]- okay 0:02:48.400,0:02:51.040 yeah i can already tell you 0:02:51.040,0:02:53.200 well theoretically i would say that the 0:02:53.200,0:02:55.791 second one in the gym is the harder fall 0:02:55.791,0:02:58.640 because it's a shorter rope that can 0:02:58.640,0:03:01.360 absorb or a shorter portion of the rope 0:03:01.360,0:03:03.360 will absorb the energy 0:03:03.360,0:03:05.599 since there's so much zigzag happening 0:03:05.599,0:03:08.239 in the rope line and therefore yeah not 0:03:08.239,0:03:10.481 the entire rope that is actually used 0:03:10.481,0:03:15.160 so let's see if that's actually true 0:03:15.160,0:03:18.159 [Music] 0:03:18.159,0:03:19.520 that was sick 0:03:19.520,0:03:25.519 [Music] 0:03:25.519,0:03:27.760 that was sick 0:03:27.760,0:03:30.879 that was like a massive fall 0:03:30.879,0:03:31.994 it was 0:03:31.994,0:03:33.330 falling was nice 0:03:33.330,0:03:36.560 how big you think the fall was 0:03:36.879,0:03:39.760 how hard to say i will say like 0:03:39.760,0:03:42.080 eight meters maybe 0:03:42.080,0:03:44.480 it looked massive from the side it 0:03:44.480,0:03:45.999 looked massive 0:03:45.999,0:03:47.519 maybe 10 0:03:47.519,0:03:49.680 i don't know 0:03:49.680,0:03:52.000 do you think it's more than 10 0:03:52.000,0:03:53.680 yeah from the side it looks massive 0:03:53.680,0:03:56.400 I think more it was more to 15 i would say 0:03:56.400,0:03:57.200 you know 0:03:57.200,0:03:59.680 you don't think so 15 0:03:59.680,0:04:01.599 no i don't think so i don't think so 0:04:01.599,0:04:03.760 yeah judging the distance of 0:04:03.760,0:04:06.959 the fall is always tricky but by my best 0:04:06.959,0:04:09.599 estimation before the fall he was around 0:04:09.599,0:04:12.239 two and a half meters above the bolt and 0:04:12.239,0:04:14.959 after the fall he was about eight meters 0:04:14.959,0:04:18.160 below the bolt so let's say 10 meters 0:04:18.160,0:04:23.280 and this 10 meters fall resulted into 0:04:24.199,0:04:28.479 3.4 kilonewtons of force and if we 0:04:28.479,0:04:31.360 compare that to the jim slam 0:04:31.360,0:04:35.360 that slam was only 2.6 kilonewtons and 0:04:35.360,0:04:37.680 the hardest fall in the gym that day we 0:04:37.680,0:04:42.960 got was 2.9 kilonewtons this one 0:04:42.960,0:04:46.639 so does it mean that this huge whipper 0:04:46.639,0:04:48.847 was harder than the slam 0:04:48.847,0:04:52.194 it doesn't look like that right 0:04:52.194,0:04:55.040 and to make sense out of all of this we 0:04:55.040,0:04:58.639 need to define what does it mean harder 0:04:58.639,0:05:00.880 what we measured is the peak force to 0:05:00.880,0:05:03.600 the climber's harness and this peak 0:05:03.600,0:05:08.080 force happens around this moment 0:05:08.080,0:05:13.339 [Music] 0:05:13.440,0:05:15.520 and if you look closely this doesn't 0:05:15.520,0:05:17.759 look that bad 0:05:17.759,0:05:20.000 and what gets our attention is actually 0:05:20.000,0:05:23.039 the contact to the wall imagine if this 0:05:23.039,0:05:27.280 wall would have been not overhanging 0:05:27.280,0:05:30.160 then the peak force on the dynamometer 0:05:30.160,0:05:32.320 to the climber's harness would read 0:05:32.320,0:05:34.880 exactly the same but the slam to the 0:05:34.880,0:05:37.600 wall would be much worse and that's by 0:05:37.600,0:05:39.520 the way how most of the people sprain 0:05:39.520,0:05:42.639 their ankles shortfall hard catch 0:05:42.639,0:05:45.520 super quick slam into the wall so how 0:05:45.520,0:05:47.919 hard the fall for the climber is will 0:05:47.919,0:05:50.479 depend on two things first is the 0:05:50.479,0:05:53.840 initial impact to the harness this 0:05:53.840,0:05:56.000 that we measured to be around three to 0:05:56.000,0:05:58.160 three and a half kilonewtons on hard 0:05:58.160,0:06:02.160 falls let's test how three kilonewtons 0:06:02.160,0:06:03.680 feels 0:06:03.680,0:06:06.319 on the harness 0:06:06.319,0:06:09.440 don't do this at home 0:06:15.520,0:06:18.520 ouch 0:06:21.840,0:06:24.160 told you not to do this at home 0:06:24.160,0:06:25.759 listen learned 0:06:25.759,0:06:28.160 falling on a single bolt on three 0:06:28.160,0:06:30.160 kilonewtons of force 0:06:30.160,0:06:34.560 can make an entire bolt come out 0:06:34.560,0:06:35.600 of 0:06:35.600,0:06:41.039 18 millimeters of shitty spanish plywood 0:06:44.000,0:06:45.199 so 0:06:45.199,0:06:47.520 the impact was 0:06:47.520,0:06:49.280 okay 0:06:49.280,0:06:51.759 but the landing on the ass was 0:06:51.759,0:06:53.199 not so okay 0:06:53.199,0:06:54.240 all right 0:06:54.240,0:06:57.919 don't do this at home number two 0:06:57.919,0:07:00.639 since i really want to experience three 0:07:00.639,0:07:02.560 or three and a half kilonewtons of force 0:07:02.560,0:07:05.120 to my harness so i can tell you 0:07:05.120,0:07:06.800 how that feels 0:07:06.800,0:07:08.800 i rigged another system 0:07:08.800,0:07:10.160 which is 0:07:10.160,0:07:12.400 hopefully not gonna end up like the 0:07:12.400,0:07:13.680 first one 0:07:13.680,0:07:15.759 this time it's very static but it 0:07:15.759,0:07:17.440 doesn't matter 0:07:17.440,0:07:21.120 i just want to feel it 0:07:22.479,0:07:23.599 wow 0:07:23.599,0:07:26.720 that was 3.8 0:07:26.720,0:07:29.720 kilonewtons 0:07:30.319,0:07:34.319 and actually that felt quite okay 0:07:34.599,0:07:37.440 3.1 kilonewtons 0:07:37.440,0:07:41.360 and i barely feel anything 0:07:43.280,0:07:45.840 three and a half 0:07:48.000,0:07:51.360 okay this was almost four kilonewtons so 0:07:51.360,0:07:53.520 under three kilonewtons 0:07:53.520,0:07:56.000 i don't feel anything between three and 0:07:56.000,0:07:59.039 four i get a little but that's far from 0:07:59.039,0:08:00.319 injuring me 0:08:00.319,0:08:01.360 and 0:08:01.360,0:08:05.440 my homemade climbing wall breaks at 0:08:05.440,0:08:08.879 3.8 kilonewtons to default which would 0:08:08.879,0:08:11.840 be around 2 kilonewtons to the climber 0:08:11.840,0:08:12.720 so 0:08:12.720,0:08:14.479 my homemade climbing 0:08:14.479,0:08:16.879 wall is not for 0:08:16.879,0:08:19.520 falling and the second thing that the 0:08:19.520,0:08:21.759 climber will experience is of course the 0:08:21.759,0:08:25.360 impact to the wall which as we saw might 0:08:25.360,0:08:28.319 be problematic in fact let's zoom in on 0:08:28.319,0:08:30.400 the big fall and watch it couple of 0:08:30.400,0:08:32.879 times 0:08:36.640,0:08:41.479 and now let's compare it to the gym fall 0:08:45.360,0:08:47.920 so as you can see it's not that easy to 0:08:47.920,0:08:50.640 tell which one was actually harder and 0:08:50.640,0:08:53.680 it also depends a lot on climbers skills 0:08:53.680,0:08:56.560 to absorb the impact with his legs as a 0:08:56.560,0:08:58.399 climber you basically need to be like a 0:08:58.399,0:09:01.279 cat when you hit the wall super soft and 0:09:01.279,0:09:02.959 people who do a lot of baldering they 0:09:02.959,0:09:05.120 tend to be much better because they fall 0:09:05.120,0:09:07.040 on the crash pads a lot 0:09:07.040,0:09:09.200 and falling on a crash but with stiff 0:09:09.200,0:09:12.560 legs would probably kill you so the same 0:09:12.560,0:09:15.040 applies to falling on ropes you want to 0:09:15.040,0:09:18.080 absorb the impact as soft as possible 0:09:18.080,0:09:20.080 and of course there are other factors 0:09:20.080,0:09:21.920 that contribute to how hard you will 0:09:21.920,0:09:24.399 slam to the wall for example jumping 0:09:24.399,0:09:26.399 away or pushing yourself away from the 0:09:26.399,0:09:28.959 wall as i talked in the previous episode 0:09:28.959,0:09:30.160 or 0:09:30.160,0:09:33.360 belaying in really hard ways in gym case 0:09:33.360,0:09:35.839 we created a hard catch on purpose 0:09:35.839,0:09:38.640 however on outdoors whipper the belayer 0:09:38.640,0:09:42.480 was standing and doing nothing 0:09:48.399,0:09:51.200 handbag 0:09:51.200,0:09:53.279 and i have a separate video coming where 0:09:53.279,0:09:55.279 i will show that standing and doing 0:09:55.279,0:09:58.080 nothing creates much harder catch than 0:09:58.080,0:10:00.959 pretty much any soft delaying method you 0:10:00.959,0:10:03.839 can try so although this belay didn't 0:10:03.839,0:10:06.720 looked hard it was definitely possible 0:10:06.720,0:10:09.680 to make it much softer but this was 0:10:09.680,0:10:11.839 actually perfect because i got the force 0:10:11.839,0:10:14.560 to the climber on big whipper on hardish 0:10:14.560,0:10:15.519 catch 0:10:15.519,0:10:18.720 totally realistic scenario and that's 0:10:18.720,0:10:20.480 actually not all 0:10:20.480,0:10:22.320 in the following months i was going 0:10:22.320,0:10:25.700 around and making a ton of experiments 0:10:25.700,0:10:27.360 [Music] 0:10:27.360,0:10:29.839 during which i recorded the forces to 0:10:29.839,0:10:33.279 the climber on over hundreds of faults 0:10:33.279,0:10:35.920 and even ryan sent me some clips of his 0:10:35.920,0:10:39.120 to compare the datum 0:10:41.040,0:10:42.320 oh 0:10:42.320,0:10:44.320 oh that was better than wheaties in the 0:10:44.320,0:10:45.440 morning 0:10:45.440,0:10:50.160 i hit 1.14 i got 2.64 and the hardest 0:10:50.160,0:10:52.700 fall i recorded was this one 0:10:52.700,0:10:55.869 [Music] 0:10:56.800,0:11:01.839 okay okay you saved me 0:11:02.160,0:11:05.800 this is the hardest recording you've got 0:11:05.800,0:11:07.440 3.60 0:11:07.440,0:11:09.200 so in this case we were filming an 0:11:09.200,0:11:12.240 episode of how to belay sketchy close to 0:11:12.240,0:11:14.399 the ground falls 0:11:14.399,0:11:16.720 the climber was clipping the second 0:11:16.720,0:11:19.279 quick draw above his head and takes a 0:11:19.279,0:11:22.279 fall 0:11:22.750,0:11:28.079 [Music] 0:11:28.079,0:11:30.160 so that's another sneak peek into the 0:11:30.160,0:11:31.920 future what's coming on my channel and 0:11:31.920,0:11:33.760 if you don't want to miss that i hope 0:11:33.760,0:11:36.560 that you do youtube things and subscribe 0:11:36.560,0:11:39.040 and click all of these bells and stuff 0:11:39.040,0:11:41.680 but for now i can say that unless the 0:11:41.680,0:11:44.800 climber is really really heavy 0:11:44.800,0:11:47.519 or we are in some unlucky multi-pitch 0:11:47.519,0:11:50.880 scenario which i haven't had time yet to 0:11:50.880,0:11:54.000 experiment with creating a fall which 0:11:54.000,0:11:57.440 would be harder than four kilonewtons 0:11:57.440,0:11:58.959 to the climber 0:11:58.959,0:12:02.320 is really really unlikely and that's 0:12:02.320,0:12:04.560 really good to know because it just 0:12:04.560,0:12:07.519 shows how great the climbing ropes are 0:12:07.519,0:12:10.320 at keeping us safe as i've just 0:12:10.320,0:12:13.200 demonstrated here four kilonewtons to 0:12:13.200,0:12:15.839 climbers harness is not really something 0:12:15.839,0:12:18.480 we should worry about unless of course 0:12:18.480,0:12:20.320 it's accompanied by a 0:12:20.320,0:12:23.040 slam to the wall and that brings me to 0:12:23.040,0:12:24.880 the original question 0:12:24.880,0:12:28.639 can i snap this very worn out rope on 0:12:28.639,0:12:31.440 the realistic climbing fall 0:12:31.440,0:12:34.000 or now i can rephrase the question can i 0:12:34.000,0:12:37.360 snap this rope on forces below 4 0:12:37.360,0:12:40.240 kilonewtons to the rope and the answer 0:12:40.240,0:12:43.839 to this surprised me a lot i had a 0:12:43.839,0:12:45.519 chance to hang out with mamamoo 0:12:45.519,0:12:47.920 engineers and test this 0:12:47.920,0:12:50.639 and also ask pretty much any question i 0:12:50.639,0:12:53.360 wanted and man that was super 0:12:53.360,0:12:55.839 interesting so i recommend to not miss 0:12:55.839,0:12:58.800 the next episode and until then i'm 0:12:58.800,0:13:01.120 gonna leave you with somebody who really 0:13:01.120,0:13:02.880 likes challenges 0:13:02.880,0:13:05.880 okay 0:13:07.120,0:13:10.399 that left hand is 29. 0:13:10.399,0:13:12.720 no i think sitting is better it's all 0:13:12.720,0:13:14.410 about technique 0:13:14.410,0:13:18.010 [Music] 0:13:18.160,0:13:23.279 it's better it's 8 68 now 0:13:23.360,0:13:25.519 okay pressing as hard as you can with 0:13:25.519,0:13:27.510 one hand 0:13:27.510,0:13:34.080 [Music] 0:13:34.399,0:13:36.880 he's going slow 0:13:36.880,0:13:39.120 he's he's weaker than i 0:13:39.120,0:13:40.240 yeah 0:13:40.240,0:13:42.480 really 0:13:44.000,0:13:45.440 what 0:13:45.440,0:13:48.399 how how much do you do i don't say it ah 0:13:48.399,0:13:50.160 and to make this competition a little 0:13:50.160,0:13:53.040 bit more fair i decided to split it into 0:13:53.040,0:13:56.480 1 000 for guys and 1 000 for girls and 0:13:56.480,0:13:59.120 to make it even more interesting girls 0:13:59.120,0:14:01.519 can win both categories of course if 0:14:01.519,0:14:03.920 there is a girl who is stronger than 0:14:03.920,0:14:06.320 the guys 0:14:11.440,0:14:13.920 not better yeah you can grab in any way 0:14:13.920,0:14:14.959 you like 0:14:14.959,0:14:16.880 any recommendation 0:14:16.880,0:14:19.600 oh no it's a competition i don't give 0:14:19.600,0:14:20.350 any hands 0:14:20.350,0:14:25.600 [Music] 0:14:25.600,0:14:28.560 everybody tries to go slow first what's 0:14:28.560,0:14:32.880 this i'm so much better 0:14:33.310,0:14:35.360 [Music] 0:14:35.360,0:14:36.880 oh 0:14:36.880,0:14:41.240 the good technique was funny 0:14:44.720,0:14:47.680 it's going to be worse 0:14:48.079,0:14:49.279 yeah 0:14:49.279,0:14:51.839 50. 0:14:55.760,0:14:58.160 where is the power screen oh my god oh 0:14:58.160,0:14:59.839 my god 0:14:59.839,0:15:03.360 oh you have seventy 0:15:03.360,0:15:05.040 you have seventy even the dog 0:15:05.040,0:15:07.440 congratulations 0:15:07.440,0:15:10.000 or no boxing techniques right 0:15:10.000,0:15:13.120 watch out my mind 0:15:18.720,0:15:23.440 oh it works the boxing technique works 0:15:23.760,0:15:25.920 it's all about technique you like the 0:15:25.920,0:15:29.440 boxing kidneys somehow 0:15:29.680,0:15:32.720 you want to try boxing 0:15:38.839,0:15:42.880 technique it's my best 0:15:45.040,0:15:46.639 by the way did you notice that this 0:15:46.639,0:15:49.279 episode had no annoying ads 0:15:49.279,0:15:54.440 this is thanks to people like this guy 0:16:00.030,0:16:03.159 [Applause] 0:16:03.920,0:16:06.000 you