WEBVTT

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— Entonces, ¿Qué tan mal crees
que está este mosquetón?

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— Malísimo, está muy, muy afilado

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— ¿Muy, muy afilado?
— No solamente está desgastado,

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aparte está afilado

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— ¿En donde lo conseguiste?
— En la roca

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— Así que este es un mosquetón
usado en una ruta de verdad

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— Si, allí hubo un accidente

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y el escalador...

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murió...
— ¡Oh!

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— Como puedes ver, está muy afilado

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— Quiero palparlo

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No se siente muy afilado

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O sea, no como cuchilla

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— Si, claro

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— Pero para una cuerda es
suficientemente afilado

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— Bueno saber

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Correcto

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— No puedo hablar por ustedes

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pero por fortuna nunca he tenido que
presenciar

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a alguien que se le rompa

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la cuerda de escalada

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durante un verdadero vuelo, pero

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desafortunadamente, ocurre.

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Entonces

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los que miran mi canal

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y tienen miedo a caer

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- van a ver este video y van a tener

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mas miedo a caer

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si eres uno de esas 
personas sensibles

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no te preocupes

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imagina que te sostengo la mano
mientras te guio

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mientras ves este video, 
y todo va a estar bien

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Bromas aparte,

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esta es mi segunda parte de
las conversaciones

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con expertos de mammoth, donde
en la primera parte

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te muestro como encontrar un posible
punto debil

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en la cuerda, que puede terminar 
facilmente

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en un forro cortado en una caida real 
en la roca

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se rompio despues de dos caidas!

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habias dicho que iba a durar un poco!

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algo asi

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desafortunadamente, he visto esto

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demasiadas veces, lo bueno es que

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lo que vimos en el video, aun con

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el forro completamente roto, la cuerda
es dificil de

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romper.

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Lo malo, es que las hebras del nucleo

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son mucho mas faciles de cortar

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alguien dijo que "por supuesto es facil
de cortar

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cuando utilizan una navaja suiza" asi que

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esto no es una navaja suiza, la verdad

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esta bastante desafilado, estos son 80kg
y esto

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es una cuerda

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ok, eso no fue nada dificil

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saquemos el forro

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ok, ahora el escalador esta colgado solo

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de una hebra de nucleo, veamos

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que tanto cuesta cortar

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las hebras del nucleo

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entonces, si durante una caida, se corta

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el forro, y luego la cuerda desliza

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sobre un borde afilado

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asumiendo que cuidas tu cuerda

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y esta en buen estado

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entonces hay dos (muchas veces

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ignorados) peligros.

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primero

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es todo el equipo por el que pasa tu

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cuerda

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[musica]

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oh

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Esto era una cinta expres nueva
antes de que

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hiciera eso, y como puedes ver la pintura

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en este punto se esta gastando, y

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si continuo haciendo esto, o solamente

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voy a escalar y tengo algunas caidas

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en esta cinta expres, esta parte va a
desarrollar

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una hendidura como esta

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o en algunos casos algo peor,
entonces

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una hendidura despues de un tiempo de
escalada es

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definitivamente normal, y usualmente no es

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un problema, ya que la cuerda pasa

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suavemente

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usualmente, pero no siempre.

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Como en la historia del escalador que
murio

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La situacion fue como en esta ruta

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una travesia por un techo y el

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paso clave estaba despues de la segunda
cinta express

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En ese punto era donde todos terminaban
tomando una caida, y

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esa cinta express tuviera un borde liso

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y redondeado.

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Por el contrario, esta cinta express solo
habia visto

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movimiento hacia los lados, con friccion
lateral

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de la cuerda, y nadia habia caido nunca en el.

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Hasta que un dia, un escalador cayo sobre el,

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y su cuerda fue cortada por la cinta express.

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- Ustedes prueban la resistencia al corte
de sus cuerdas

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y hay algun estandar para esto?

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Empiezo por la segunda pregunta

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y no, no hay pruebas estandar para

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la resistencia al corte. Es decir

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en el estandar de hoy, ese test por 
defecto que

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pienso todos han visto muchas veces,

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pero aqui la cuerda cae sobre una 
abrazadera

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eso es muy similar a un mosqueton nuevo

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asi que para demostrar que tan malo es

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un mosqueton afilado

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tomamos una cuerda nueva y la
equipamos en

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un escenario realista de caidas.

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Esta es 9.5mm

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completamente nueva

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oh

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primera caida en la cuerda nueva

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todo el forro de la cuerda se deshizo

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-la fuerza en el area es realmente no

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tan grande, estoy sorprendido

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es una locura, ahora cambiemos

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veamos que pasa cuando la cuerda esta

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vieja y peluda, asi que tomamos la

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misma cuerda vieja, encontramos un lugar que

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esta bastante peludo, pero

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definitivamente la gente escalaria con

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esta cuerda

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suave

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pero no completamente mal

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Se va a romper? piensas que

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no se va a romper?

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cuantas hebras del nucleo va a perder?

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dos hebras se van a romper

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ok, y tu estimacion son dos de

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ocho

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