1 00:00:00,000 --> 00:00:01,679 — Entonces, ¿Qué tan mal crees que está este mosquetón? 2 00:00:01,679 --> 00:00:04,400 — Malísimo, está muy, muy afilado 3 00:00:04,400 --> 00:00:07,879 — ¿Muy, muy afilado? — No solamente está desgastado, 4 00:00:07,879 --> 00:00:08,880 aparte está afilado 5 00:00:08,880 --> 00:00:11,119 — ¿En donde lo conseguiste? — En la roca 6 00:00:11,119 --> 00:00:15,199 — Así que este es un mosquetón usado en una ruta de verdad 7 00:00:15,199 --> 00:00:17,480 — Si, allí hubo un accidente 8 00:00:17,480 --> 00:00:19,519 y el escalador... 9 00:00:19,519 --> 00:00:21,640 murió... — ¡Oh! 10 00:00:21,640 --> 00:00:24,079 — Como puedes ver, está muy afilado 11 00:00:24,079 --> 00:00:27,280 — Quiero palparlo 12 00:00:27,679 --> 00:00:31,120 No se siente muy afilado 13 00:00:31,120 --> 00:00:32,200 O sea, no como cuchilla 14 00:00:32,200 --> 00:00:33,280 — Si, claro 15 00:00:33,280 --> 00:00:35,679 — Pero para una cuerda es suficientemente afilado 16 00:00:35,679 --> 00:00:37,000 — Bueno saber 17 00:00:37,640 --> 00:00:39,079 Correcto 18 00:00:39,079 --> 00:00:40,840 — No puedo hablar por ustedes 19 00:00:40,840 --> 00:00:43,479 pero por fortuna nunca he tenido que presenciar 20 00:00:43,479 --> 00:00:46,359 a alguien que se le rompa 21 00:00:46,359 --> 00:00:47,719 la cuerda de escalada 22 00:00:47,719 --> 00:00:50,359 durante un verdadero vuelo, pero 23 00:00:50,359 --> 00:00:52,920 desafortunadamente, ocurre. 24 00:00:52,920 --> 00:00:54,119 Entonces 25 00:00:54,119 --> 00:00:56,200 los que miran mi canal 26 00:00:56,200 --> 00:00:58,200 y tienen miedo a caer 27 00:00:58,200 --> 00:01:01,399 - van a ver este video y van a tener 28 00:01:01,399 --> 00:01:03,479 mas miedo a caer 29 00:01:03,479 --> 00:01:05,319 si eres uno de esas personas sensibles 30 00:01:05,319 --> 00:01:08,280 no te preocupes 31 00:01:08,280 --> 00:01:11,079 imagina que te sostengo la mano mientras te guio 32 00:01:11,079 --> 00:01:13,480 mientras ves este video, y todo va a estar bien 33 00:01:13,480 --> 00:01:16,599 Bromas aparte, 34 00:01:16,599 --> 00:01:19,560 esta es mi segunda parte de las conversaciones 35 00:01:19,560 --> 00:01:22,200 con expertos de mammoth, donde en la primera parte 36 00:01:22,200 --> 00:01:24,840 te muestro como encontrar un posible punto debil 37 00:01:24,840 --> 00:01:27,719 en la cuerda, que puede terminar facilmente 38 00:01:27,719 --> 00:01:30,760 en un forro cortado en una caida real en la roca 39 00:01:30,760 --> 00:01:34,120 se rompio despues de dos caidas! 40 00:01:34,120 --> 00:01:36,519 habias dicho que iba a durar un poco! 41 00:01:36,519 --> 00:01:38,439 algo asi 42 00:01:38,439 --> 00:01:41,159 desafortunadamente, he visto esto 43 00:01:41,159 --> 00:01:43,879 demasiadas veces, lo bueno es que 44 00:01:43,879 --> 00:01:46,200 lo que vimos en el video, aun con 45 00:01:46,200 --> 00:01:49,000 el forro completamente roto, la cuerda es dificil de 46 00:01:49,000 --> 00:01:49,959 romper. 47 00:01:49,959 --> 00:01:52,840 Lo malo, es que las hebras del nucleo 48 00:01:52,840 --> 00:01:56,519 son mucho mas faciles de cortar 49 00:01:58,040 --> 00:02:00,200 alguien dijo que "por supuesto es facil de cortar 50 00:02:00,200 --> 00:02:02,760 cuando utilizan una navaja suiza" asi que 51 00:02:02,760 --> 00:02:05,799 esto no es una navaja suiza, la verdad 52 00:02:05,799 --> 00:02:08,199 esta bastante desafilado, estos son 80kg y esto 53 00:02:08,199 --> 00:02:10,680 es una cuerda 54 00:02:17,240 --> 00:02:21,800 ok, eso no fue nada dificil 55 00:02:21,800 --> 00:02:25,159 saquemos el forro 56 00:02:29,319 --> 00:02:31,960 ok, ahora el escalador esta colgado solo 57 00:02:31,960 --> 00:02:35,719 de una hebra de nucleo, veamos 58 00:02:35,719 --> 00:02:37,479 que tanto cuesta cortar 59 00:02:37,479 --> 00:02:40,439 las hebras del nucleo 60 00:02:47,479 --> 00:02:49,639 entonces, si durante una caida, se corta 61 00:02:49,639 --> 00:02:52,039 el forro, y luego la cuerda desliza 62 00:02:52,039 --> 00:02:54,759 sobre un borde afilado 63 00:02:54,759 --> 00:02:56,680 asumiendo que cuidas tu cuerda 64 00:02:56,680 --> 00:02:59,080 y esta en buen estado 65 00:02:59,080 --> 00:03:01,719 entonces hay dos (muchas veces 66 00:03:01,719 --> 00:03:05,080 ignorados) peligros. 67 00:03:06,120 --> 00:03:08,039 primero 68 00:03:08,039 --> 00:03:10,680 es todo el equipo por el que pasa tu 69 00:03:10,680 --> 00:03:12,560 cuerda 70 00:03:12,560 --> 00:03:25,800 [musica] 71 00:03:27,159 --> 00:03:29,400 oh 72 00:03:29,479 --> 00:03:32,439 Esto era una cinta expres nueva antes de que 73 00:03:32,439 --> 00:03:35,400 hiciera eso, y como puedes ver la pintura 74 00:03:35,400 --> 00:03:38,280 en este punto se esta gastando, y 75 00:03:38,280 --> 00:03:40,360 si continuo haciendo esto, o solamente 76 00:03:40,360 --> 00:03:42,360 voy a escalar y tengo algunas caidas 77 00:03:42,360 --> 00:03:44,520 en esta cinta expres, esta parte va a desarrollar 78 00:03:44,520 --> 00:03:46,919 una hendidura como esta 79 00:03:46,919 --> 00:03:50,199 o en algunos casos algo peor, entonces 80 00:03:50,199 --> 00:03:52,439 una hendidura despues de un tiempo de escalada es 81 00:03:52,439 --> 00:03:55,159 definitivamente normal, y usualmente no es 82 00:03:55,159 --> 00:03:57,639 un problema, ya que la cuerda pasa 83 00:03:57,639 --> 00:04:00,199 suavemente 84 00:04:00,199 --> 00:04:03,159 usualmente, pero no siempre. 85 00:04:03,159 --> 00:04:05,879 Como en la historia del escalador que murio 86 00:04:05,879 --> 00:04:08,120 La situacion fue como en esta ruta 87 00:04:08,120 --> 00:04:10,599 una travesia por un techo y el 88 00:04:10,599 --> 00:04:13,000 paso clave estaba despues de la segunda cinta express 89 00:04:13,000 --> 00:04:15,319 En ese punto era donde todos terminaban tomando una caida, y 90 00:04:15,319 --> 00:04:17,800 esa cinta express tuviera un borde liso 91 00:04:17,800 --> 00:04:19,399 y redondeado. 92 00:04:19,399 --> 00:04:22,120 Por el contrario, esta cinta express solo habia visto 93 00:04:22,120 --> 00:04:24,839 movimiento hacia los lados, con friccion lateral 94 00:04:24,839 --> 00:04:28,360 de la cuerda, y nadia habia caido nunca en el. 95 00:04:28,360 --> 00:04:32,120 Hasta que un dia, un escalador cayo sobre el, 96 00:04:32,120 --> 00:04:35,079 y su cuerda fue cortada por la cinta express. 97 00:04:35,079 --> 00:04:37,959 - Ustedes prueban la resistencia al corte de sus cuerdas 98 00:04:37,959 --> 00:04:40,439 y hay algun estandar para esto? 99 00:04:40,439 --> 00:04:42,680 Empiezo por la segunda pregunta 100 00:04:42,680 --> 00:04:45,560 y no, no hay pruebas estandar para 101 00:04:45,560 --> 00:04:47,319 la resistencia al corte. Es decir 102 00:04:47,319 --> 00:04:50,120 en el estandar de hoy, ese test por defecto que 103 00:04:50,120 --> 00:04:52,279 pienso todos han visto muchas veces, 104 00:04:52,279 --> 00:04:54,839 pero aqui la cuerda cae sobre una abrazadera 105 00:04:54,839 --> 00:04:57,480 eso es muy similar a un mosqueton nuevo 106 00:04:57,480 --> 00:05:00,040 asi que para demostrar que tan malo es 107 00:05:00,040 --> 00:05:01,560 un mosqueton afilado 108 00:05:01,560 --> 00:05:03,959 tomamos una cuerda nueva y la equipamos en 109 00:05:03,959 --> 00:05:06,439 un escenario realista de caidas. 110 00:05:06,439 --> 00:05:08,920 Esta es 9.5mm 111 00:05:08,920 --> 00:05:11,639 completamente nueva 112 00:05:12,759 --> 00:05:13,720 oh 113 00:05:13,720 --> 00:05:15,720 primera caida en la cuerda nueva 114 00:05:15,720 --> 00:05:19,240 todo el forro de la cuerda se deshizo 115 00:05:19,240 --> 00:05:21,160 -la fuerza en el area es realmente no 116 00:05:21,160 --> 00:05:23,720 tan grande, estoy sorprendido 117 00:05:23,720 --> 00:05:28,360 es una locura, ahora cambiemos 118 00:05:28,360 --> 00:05:30,600 veamos que pasa cuando la cuerda esta 119 00:05:30,600 --> 00:05:33,000 vieja y peluda, asi que tomamos la 120 00:05:33,000 --> 00:05:35,399 misma cuerda vieja, encontramos un lugar que 121 00:05:35,399 --> 00:05:38,199 esta bastante peludo, pero 122 00:05:38,199 --> 00:05:40,439 definitivamente la gente escalaria con 123 00:05:40,439 --> 00:05:41,319 esta cuerda 124 00:05:41,319 --> 00:05:42,759 suave 125 00:05:42,759 --> 00:05:45,399 pero no completamente mal 126 00:05:45,399 --> 00:05:47,720 Se va a romper? piensas que 127 00:05:47,720 --> 00:05:48,680 no se va a romper? 128 00:05:48,680 --> 00:05:51,079 cuantas hebras del nucleo va a perder? 129 00:05:51,079 --> 00:05:54,199 dos hebras se van a romper 130 00:05:54,199 --> 00:05:56,360 ok, y tu estimacion son dos de 131 00:05:56,360 --> 00:05:58,600 ocho 132 00:06:02,199 --> 00:06:04,439 133 00:06:04,439 --> 00:06:06,519 134 00:06:06,519 --> 00:06:07,439 135 00:06:07,439 --> 00:06:08,680 136 00:06:08,680 --> 00:06:10,759 137 00:06:10,759 --> 00:06:13,720 138 00:06:13,720 --> 00:06:16,120 139 00:06:16,120 --> 00:06:18,439 140 00:06:18,439 --> 00:06:19,959 141 00:06:19,959 --> 00:06:22,680 142 00:06:22,680 --> 00:06:25,639 143 00:06:25,639 --> 00:06:27,879 144 00:06:27,879 --> 00:06:29,800 145 00:06:29,800 --> 00:06:32,279 146 00:06:32,279 --> 00:06:33,319 147 00:06:33,319 --> 00:06:35,480 148 00:06:35,480 --> 00:06:38,600 149 00:06:38,600 --> 00:06:41,800 150 00:06:41,800 --> 00:06:44,519 151 00:06:44,519 --> 00:06:47,639 152 00:06:47,639 --> 00:06:51,079 153 00:06:51,079 --> 00:06:53,319 154 00:06:53,319 --> 00:06:55,399 155 00:06:55,399 --> 00:06:56,519 156 00:06:56,519 --> 00:07:00,120 157 00:07:00,120 --> 00:07:02,519 158 00:07:02,519 --> 00:07:04,839 159 00:07:04,839 --> 00:07:07,639 160 00:07:07,639 --> 00:07:09,399 161 00:07:09,399 --> 00:07:13,759 162 00:07:14,360 --> 00:07:16,040 163 00:07:16,040 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222 00:09:56,919 --> 00:10:00,039 223 00:10:00,039 --> 00:10:02,679 224 00:10:02,679 --> 00:10:05,480 225 00:10:05,480 --> 00:10:07,320 226 00:10:07,320 --> 00:10:10,759 227 00:10:10,759 --> 00:10:12,840 228 00:10:12,840 --> 00:10:16,440 229 00:10:16,440 --> 00:10:17,639 230 00:10:17,639 --> 00:10:20,279 231 00:10:20,279 --> 00:10:21,080 232 00:10:21,080 --> 00:10:24,120 233 00:10:24,120 --> 00:10:27,399 234 00:10:27,399 --> 00:10:29,000 235 00:10:29,000 --> 00:10:31,320 236 00:10:31,320 --> 00:10:34,039 237 00:10:34,039 --> 00:10:37,559 238 00:10:37,559 --> 00:10:40,440 239 00:10:40,440 --> 00:10:42,279 240 00:10:42,279 --> 00:10:45,000 241 00:10:45,000 --> 00:10:47,240 242 00:10:47,240 --> 00:10:50,600 243 00:10:50,600 --> 00:10:51,399 244 00:10:51,399 --> 00:10:54,120 245 00:10:54,120 --> 00:10:56,279 246 00:10:56,279 --> 00:10:59,720 247 00:10:59,720 --> 00:11:03,399 248 00:11:03,399 --> 00:11:04,320 249 00:11:04,320 --> 00:11:06,559 250 00:11:06,559 --> 00:11:09,440 251 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339 00:15:01,600 --> 00:15:03,840 340 00:15:03,840 --> 00:15:06,320 341 00:15:06,320 --> 00:15:07,919 342 00:15:07,919 --> 00:15:11,840 343 00:15:11,840 --> 00:15:14,080 344 00:15:14,080 --> 00:15:16,879 345 00:15:16,879 --> 00:15:19,200 346 00:15:19,200 --> 00:15:20,960 347 00:15:20,960 --> 00:15:24,000 348 00:15:24,000 --> 00:15:26,720 349 00:15:26,720 --> 00:15:29,519 350 00:15:29,519 --> 00:15:31,919 351 00:15:31,919 --> 00:15:33,919 352 00:15:33,919 --> 00:15:37,120 353 00:15:37,120 --> 00:15:40,000 354 00:15:40,000 --> 00:15:43,360 355 00:15:43,360 --> 00:15:46,480 356 00:15:46,480 --> 00:15:48,080 357 00:15:48,080 --> 00:15:50,480 358 00:15:50,480 --> 00:15:52,480 359 00:15:52,480 --> 00:15:54,399 360 00:15:54,399 --> 00:15:55,600 361 00:15:55,600 --> 00:15:57,919 362 00:15:57,919 --> 00:16:01,159 363 00:16:01,519 --> 00:16:03,440 364 00:16:03,440 --> 00:16:04,480 365 00:16:04,480 --> 00:16:06,080 366 00:16:06,080 --> 00:16:08,399 367 00:16:08,399 --> 00:16:10,559 368 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