0:00:00.000,0:00:01.679
— Entonces, ¿Qué tan mal crees[br]que está este mosquetón?

0:00:01.679,0:00:04.400
— Malísimo, está muy, muy afilado

0:00:04.400,0:00:07.879
— ¿Muy, muy afilado?[br]— No solamente está desgastado,

0:00:07.879,0:00:08.880
aparte está afilado

0:00:08.880,0:00:11.119
— ¿En donde lo conseguiste?[br]— En la roca

0:00:11.119,0:00:15.199
— Así que este es un mosquetón[br]usado en una ruta de verdad

0:00:15.199,0:00:17.480
— Si, allí hubo un accidente

0:00:17.480,0:00:19.519
y el escalador...

0:00:19.519,0:00:21.640
murió...[br]— ¡Oh!

0:00:21.640,0:00:24.079
— Como puedes ver, está muy afilado

0:00:24.079,0:00:27.280
— Quiero palparlo

0:00:27.679,0:00:31.120
No se siente muy afilado

0:00:31.120,0:00:32.200
O sea, no como cuchilla

0:00:32.200,0:00:33.280
— Si, claro

0:00:33.280,0:00:35.679
— Pero para una cuerda es[br]suficientemente afilado

0:00:35.679,0:00:37.000
— Bueno saber

0:00:37.640,0:00:39.079
Correcto

0:00:39.079,0:00:40.840
— No puedo hablar por ustedes

0:00:40.840,0:00:43.479
pero por fortuna nunca he tenido que[br]presenciar

0:00:43.479,0:00:46.359
a alguien que se le rompa

0:00:46.359,0:00:47.719
la cuerda de escalada

0:00:47.719,0:00:50.359
durante un verdadero vuelo, pero

0:00:50.359,0:00:52.920
desafortunadamente, ocurre.

0:00:52.920,0:00:54.119
Entonces

0:00:54.119,0:00:56.200
los que miran mi canal

0:00:56.200,0:00:58.200
y tienen miedo a caer

0:00:58.200,0:01:01.399
- van a ver este video y van a tener

0:01:01.399,0:01:03.479
mas miedo a caer

0:01:03.479,0:01:05.319
si eres uno de esas [br]personas sensibles

0:01:05.319,0:01:08.280
no te preocupes

0:01:08.280,0:01:11.079
imagina que te sostengo la mano[br]mientras te guio

0:01:11.079,0:01:13.480
mientras ves este video, [br]y todo va a estar bien

0:01:13.480,0:01:16.599
Bromas aparte,

0:01:16.599,0:01:19.560
esta es mi segunda parte de[br]las conversaciones

0:01:19.560,0:01:22.200
con expertos de mammoth, donde[br]en la primera parte

0:01:22.200,0:01:24.840
te muestro como encontrar un posible[br]punto debil

0:01:24.840,0:01:27.719
en la cuerda, que puede terminar [br]facilmente

0:01:27.719,0:01:30.760
en un forro cortado en una caida real [br]en la roca

0:01:30.760,0:01:34.120
se rompio despues de dos caidas!

0:01:34.120,0:01:36.519
habias dicho que iba a durar un poco!

0:01:36.519,0:01:38.439
algo asi

0:01:38.439,0:01:41.159
desafortunadamente, he visto esto

0:01:41.159,0:01:43.879
demasiadas veces, lo bueno es que

0:01:43.879,0:01:46.200
lo que vimos en el video, aun con

0:01:46.200,0:01:49.000
el forro completamente roto, la cuerda[br]es dificil de

0:01:49.000,0:01:49.959
romper.

0:01:49.959,0:01:52.840
Lo malo, es que las hebras del nucleo

0:01:52.840,0:01:56.519
son mucho mas faciles de cortar

0:01:58.040,0:02:00.200
alguien dijo que "por supuesto es facil[br]de cortar

0:02:00.200,0:02:02.760
cuando utilizan una navaja suiza" asi que

0:02:02.760,0:02:05.799
esto no es una navaja suiza, la verdad

0:02:05.799,0:02:08.199
esta bastante desafilado, estos son 80kg[br]y esto

0:02:08.199,0:02:10.680
es una cuerda

0:02:17.240,0:02:21.800
ok, eso no fue nada dificil

0:02:21.800,0:02:25.159
saquemos el forro

0:02:29.319,0:02:31.960
ok, ahora el escalador esta colgado solo

0:02:31.960,0:02:35.719
de una hebra de nucleo, veamos

0:02:35.719,0:02:37.479
que tanto cuesta cortar

0:02:37.479,0:02:40.439
las hebras del nucleo

0:02:47.479,0:02:49.639
entonces, si durante una caida, se corta

0:02:49.639,0:02:52.039
el forro, y luego la cuerda desliza

0:02:52.039,0:02:54.759
sobre un borde afilado

0:02:54.759,0:02:56.680
asumiendo que cuidas tu cuerda

0:02:56.680,0:02:59.080
y esta en buen estado

0:02:59.080,0:03:01.719
entonces hay dos (muchas veces

0:03:01.719,0:03:05.080
ignorados) peligros.

0:03:06.120,0:03:08.039
primero

0:03:08.039,0:03:10.680
es todo el equipo por el que pasa tu

0:03:10.680,0:03:12.560
cuerda

0:03:12.560,0:03:25.800
[musica]

0:03:27.159,0:03:29.400
oh

0:03:29.479,0:03:32.439
Esto era una cinta expres nueva[br]antes de que

0:03:32.439,0:03:35.400
hiciera eso, y como puedes ver la pintura

0:03:35.400,0:03:38.280
en este punto se esta gastando, y

0:03:38.280,0:03:40.360
si continuo haciendo esto, o solamente

0:03:40.360,0:03:42.360
voy a escalar y tengo algunas caidas

0:03:42.360,0:03:44.520
en esta cinta expres, esta parte va a[br]desarrollar

0:03:44.520,0:03:46.919
una hendidura como esta

0:03:46.919,0:03:50.199
o en algunos casos algo peor,[br]entonces

0:03:50.199,0:03:52.439
una hendidura despues de un tiempo de[br]escalada es

0:03:52.439,0:03:55.159
definitivamente normal, y usualmente no es

0:03:55.159,0:03:57.639
un problema, ya que la cuerda pasa

0:03:57.639,0:04:00.199
suavemente

0:04:00.199,0:04:03.159
usualmente, pero no siempre.

0:04:03.159,0:04:05.879
Como en la historia del escalador que[br]murio

0:04:05.879,0:04:08.120
La situacion fue como en esta ruta

0:04:08.120,0:04:10.599
una travesia por un techo y el

0:04:10.599,0:04:13.000
paso clave estaba despues de la segunda[br]cinta express

0:04:13.000,0:04:15.319
En ese punto era donde todos terminaban[br]tomando una caida, y

0:04:15.319,0:04:17.800
esa cinta express tuviera un borde liso

0:04:17.800,0:04:19.399
y redondeado.

0:04:19.399,0:04:22.120
Por el contrario, esta cinta express solo[br]habia visto

0:04:22.120,0:04:24.839
movimiento hacia los lados, con friccion[br]lateral

0:04:24.839,0:04:28.360
de la cuerda, y nadia habia caido nunca en el.

0:04:28.360,0:04:32.120
Hasta que un dia, un escalador cayo sobre el,

0:04:32.120,0:04:35.079
y su cuerda fue cortada por la cinta express.

0:04:35.079,0:04:37.959
- Ustedes prueban la resistencia al corte[br]de sus cuerdas

0:04:37.959,0:04:40.439
y hay algun estandar para esto?

0:04:40.439,0:04:42.680
Empiezo por la segunda pregunta

0:04:42.680,0:04:45.560
y no, no hay pruebas estandar para

0:04:45.560,0:04:47.319
la resistencia al corte. Es decir

0:04:47.319,0:04:50.120
en el estandar de hoy, ese test por [br]defecto que

0:04:50.120,0:04:52.279
pienso todos han visto muchas veces,

0:04:52.279,0:04:54.839
pero aqui la cuerda cae sobre una [br]abrazadera

0:04:54.839,0:04:57.480
eso es muy similar a un mosqueton nuevo

0:04:57.480,0:05:00.040
asi que para demostrar que tan malo es

0:05:00.040,0:05:01.560
un mosqueton afilado

0:05:01.560,0:05:03.959
tomamos una cuerda nueva y la[br]equipamos en

0:05:03.959,0:05:06.439
un escenario realista de caidas.

0:05:06.439,0:05:08.920
Esta es 9.5mm

0:05:08.920,0:05:11.639
completamente nueva

0:05:12.759,0:05:13.720
oh

0:05:13.720,0:05:15.720
primera caida en la cuerda nueva

0:05:15.720,0:05:19.240
todo el forro de la cuerda se deshizo

0:05:19.240,0:05:21.160
-la fuerza en el area es realmente no

0:05:21.160,0:05:23.720
tan grande, estoy sorprendido

0:05:23.720,0:05:28.360
es una locura, ahora cambiemos

0:05:28.360,0:05:30.600
veamos que pasa cuando la cuerda esta

0:05:30.600,0:05:33.000
vieja y peluda, asi que tomamos la

0:05:33.000,0:05:35.399
misma cuerda vieja, encontramos un lugar que

0:05:35.399,0:05:38.199
esta bastante peludo, pero

0:05:38.199,0:05:40.439
definitivamente la gente escalaria con

0:05:40.439,0:05:41.319
esta cuerda

0:05:41.319,0:05:42.759
suave

0:05:42.759,0:05:45.399
pero no completamente mal

0:05:45.399,0:05:47.720
Se va a romper? piensas que

0:05:47.720,0:05:48.680
no se va a romper?

0:05:48.680,0:05:51.079
cuantas hebras del nucleo va a perder?

0:05:51.079,0:05:54.199
dos hebras se van a romper

0:05:54.199,0:05:56.360
ok, y tu estimacion son dos de

0:05:56.360,0:05:58.600
ocho

0:06:02.199,0:06:04.439


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