[Script Info]
Title: 
[Events]
Format: Layer, Start, End, Style, Name, MarginL, MarginR, MarginV, Effect, Text
Dialogue: 0,0:00:11.41,0:00:12.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Look around.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:12.93,0:00:14.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Who is sitting next to you?
Dialogue: 0,0:00:14.95,0:00:17.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In your row of seats? Behind you?
Dialogue: 0,0:00:17.91,0:00:24.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,How many people have you\Ntalked to during the lunch break?
Dialogue: 0,0:00:25.86,0:00:28.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Did you exchange any words,\Nexpress your opinion?
Dialogue: 0,0:00:29.04,0:00:32.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,With how many people\Nhave you had visual contact?
Dialogue: 0,0:00:32.90,0:00:35.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Fashion is a visual language.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:36.78,0:00:43.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And, it can expose you,\Neven when you are fully dressed.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:43.29,0:00:46.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Who chose your image for today? You?
Dialogue: 0,0:00:46.86,0:00:48.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Me, perhaps?
Dialogue: 0,0:00:49.08,0:00:51.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Somebody in far off Paris?
Dialogue: 0,0:00:52.21,0:00:56.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Let's talk today about\Nwho was behind your decision,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:56.56,0:00:59.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,why you dress like you do,
Dialogue: 0,0:01:01.49,0:01:06.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what you can tell about a person\Nby how they dress,
Dialogue: 0,0:01:07.12,0:01:11.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what we can tell about a society\Nif we analyse its fashion.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:13.52,0:01:20.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I would like to tell you a few stories,
Dialogue: 0,0:01:20.37,0:01:24.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stories to give you a vivid picture
Dialogue: 0,0:01:24.07,0:01:30.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of how society changes looking at it\Nthrough the fashion industry.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:32.99,0:01:38.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Let's go back to the time of the monarchy.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:39.18,0:01:44.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,At this time, all power\Nwas in the hands of one person:
Dialogue: 0,0:01:45.62,0:01:50.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,essentially, fashion\Ndepended on their wishes.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:50.65,0:01:56.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It was a narrow circle of elite,\Nthe nobility, of inherited entitlement,
Dialogue: 0,0:01:57.26,0:02:01.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,their revenues guaranteed\Nby their estates.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:03.12,0:02:06.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The life of ordinary people\Nwas completely different.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:06.84,0:02:13.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,For these people, their clothes played\Nanother role ... a practical one,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:13.12,0:02:17.100,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or one according to their profession,\Ncraft or employment.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:18.18,0:02:21.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, it was the case that you could tell\Nfrom the clothes they wore
Dialogue: 0,0:02:21.30,0:02:23.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what they did,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:23.30,0:02:25.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or what their societal status was.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:27.03,0:02:32.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All information was passed by hand\Nfrom person to person,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:32.48,0:02:38.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there was no press, no mass media,\Nthat is, no promotion of information,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:38.27,0:02:42.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so how fast you got\Ninformation from the monarch,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:42.82,0:02:44.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from the centre of power,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:44.67,0:02:49.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,depended on how close to him,\Nhow close to the centre of power you were.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:49.34,0:02:53.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That's how the expression\N"provincial fashion" came about.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:53.47,0:02:59.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,By the time you received any information,\Nit would have become out of date,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:59.48,0:03:03.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,whether it was about fashion\Nor anything else.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:04.34,0:03:08.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In other words,\Nlooking at somebody's outfit,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:08.37,0:03:14.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we get to know how close that person was\Nfrom a centre of power, from the monarchy.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:16.62,0:03:20.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The world of fashion\Nunderwent a transformation
Dialogue: 0,0:03:20.44,0:03:24.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with the coming\Nof the Industrial Revolution.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:26.05,0:03:32.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The nobility started to get poorer,\Na title no longer guaranteed your income,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:32.17,0:03:36.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and estates could be bought and sold.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:36.75,0:03:40.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,A new elite came to power,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:40.84,0:03:43.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the capitalist elite, the capitalists.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:46.58,0:03:53.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,They came from \Na very low stratum of society.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:55.90,0:04:00.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Look at this picture,\Nhow easy this family looks.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:01.05,0:04:03.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Maybe you know who it is in this photo?
Dialogue: 0,0:04:03.99,0:04:06.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This family is a manufacturer\Nof sports footwear.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:07.10,0:04:09.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There are two brothers there:
Dialogue: 0,0:04:09.53,0:04:12.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,one of them is Adi Dassler,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:13.06,0:04:16.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and his brother was nicknamed Puma.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:18.52,0:04:23.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The laws of the previous elite\Nwere not written for them.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:24.07,0:04:27.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,They simply don't know them.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:27.30,0:04:31.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And since they don't know them,\Nthey don't use them.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:31.97,0:04:33.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,An opportunity presents itself,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:33.72,0:04:39.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and with it the desire to show off\Nyour new status in society.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:39.31,0:04:42.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The easiest way to do that\Nis through clothes, through fashion.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:42.86,0:04:45.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Individuality comes to fashion.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:49.09,0:04:55.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The Industrial Revolution makes possible\Nthe production of cheaper clothes.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:55.95,0:04:58.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The quality of goods is becoming\Nmuch more consistent.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:00.88,0:05:03.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And the situation is becoming one
Dialogue: 0,0:05:03.52,0:05:07.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where there's more on the market
Dialogue: 0,0:05:07.80,0:05:11.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,than people really need.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:11.81,0:05:15.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,For the capitalists\Nto maintain their power,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:15.28,0:05:20.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you need constant consumption\Nrequiring constant production.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:20.25,0:05:24.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,How do you do that\Nif people don't need things?
Dialogue: 0,0:05:24.96,0:05:26.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,They have to be taught to buy.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:30.85,0:05:34.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that's where designers came in,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:36.33,0:05:40.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,creating, not just practical clothes,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:40.61,0:05:42.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but a look,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:42.26,0:05:44.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,an individual look for everyone.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:45.64,0:05:49.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,By the way, the first designers\Nas we know them today,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:49.73,0:05:51.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as we know the fashion industry,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:51.57,0:05:54.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come to us from the 19th century.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:54.39,0:05:58.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The first designer to sew his label\Non the clothes he made
Dialogue: 0,0:05:58.25,0:06:00.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was Charles Frederick Worth.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:01.55,0:06:05.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And then this image\Ncreated by this designer,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:05.62,0:06:09.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which isn't really practical anymore,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:09.70,0:06:12.03,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but an emotional image,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:12.03,0:06:13.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,starts to sell.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:14.34,0:06:18.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Seasonality is coming, new trends,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:20.22,0:06:25.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but the capitalists needed to sustain\Ngrowth in consumption.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:26.54,0:06:29.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,How was that to be done?
Dialogue: 0,0:06:30.24,0:06:32.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The printing press arrives,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:33.68,0:06:40.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and by using the printing press,\Nthey achieve their goal.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:41.40,0:06:42.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Advertising.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:42.77,0:06:46.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,New advertising agencies are opening up
Dialogue: 0,0:06:46.16,0:06:52.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that build purely emotional sales,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:52.96,0:06:59.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,while the product itself is already\Nbecoming of secondary concern.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:59.33,0:07:02.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's the consumption\Nof emotion that matters.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:05.75,0:07:08.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,For the capitalists of the time,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:08.89,0:07:12.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this proved to be\Nvery supportive of their power
Dialogue: 0,0:07:12.56,0:07:14.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the growth of that power,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:14.39,0:07:16.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but they didn't realize
Dialogue: 0,0:07:16.24,0:07:19.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that they themselves had started
Dialogue: 0,0:07:19.01,0:07:23.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the beginning of the end of their century.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:24.70,0:07:26.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The press.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:26.21,0:07:30.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Fashion magazines\Nare gaining a lot o power,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:30.41,0:07:35.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and so into their hands\Nfalls the future of designers,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:35.80,0:07:38.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the future of trademarks,\Nthe future of brands.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:41.62,0:07:48.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And you won't believe how big a role\Nthey play in a situation like this.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:48.39,0:07:53.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It is Paris, a young designer\Nshows his new collection.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:54.28,0:07:55.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Christian Dior.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:56.16,0:08:01.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The American press,\Nincluding "Harper's Bazaar".
Dialogue: 0,0:08:01.50,0:08:05.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Its editor-in-chief, Carmel Snow,\Nexclaimed after the show:
Dialogue: 0,0:08:06.20,0:08:09.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,"Dior! It's a new look!" -
Dialogue: 0,0:08:09.10,0:08:12.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,"It's a new approach,\Na new look at fashion!"
Dialogue: 0,0:08:12.53,0:08:16.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,She goes back to America\Nand writes about it.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:16.09,0:08:17.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Photographs.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:17.65,0:08:22.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Dior becomes very popular\Nin America and in Europe,
Dialogue: 0,0:08:22.67,0:08:29.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The style icon of the decade was to be\Nthe "New Look" by Christian Dior.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:30.69,0:08:33.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,His name is very easy to pronounce,
Dialogue: 0,0:08:33.81,0:08:36.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and it's even easier to write in English.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:37.44,0:08:40.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,At this time in Europe,\Nin France, in Paris,
Dialogue: 0,0:08:40.74,0:08:44.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there are, in fact, a lot more designers
Dialogue: 0,0:08:44.18,0:08:47.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,who also show similar fashions.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:47.87,0:08:50.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But their names\Nare much harder to pronounce,
Dialogue: 0,0:08:50.39,0:08:54.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,while Dior's name is much easier to say.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:55.85,0:08:59.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The names of the other designers\Nare slowly fading into history:
Dialogue: 0,0:08:59.13,0:09:04.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,including a great designer,\NElsa Schiaparelli, for example.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:05.64,0:09:09.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Christian Dior is the "New Look".
Dialogue: 0,0:09:11.29,0:09:16.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Capitalists have discovered
Dialogue: 0,0:09:16.69,0:09:20.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the way of a new age,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:20.05,0:09:23.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the age of information,\Na world of information
Dialogue: 0,0:09:24.85,0:09:30.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where power passes\Nfrom the hands of capitalists
Dialogue: 0,0:09:30.56,0:09:36.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,into the hands of those\Nwho manipulate, who use,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:36.74,0:09:39.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,exploit information.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:39.90,0:09:45.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,A new elite emerges,\Nthe information elite.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:49.53,0:09:54.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The entire structure\Nof society is changing,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:54.60,0:10:00.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as is the way fashion is created,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:00.27,0:10:03.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and what is behind\Nthe impulse to create fashion.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:03.99,0:10:09.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The most important thing\Nfor a designer right now,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:09.40,0:10:11.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for the fashion industry, to survive
Dialogue: 0,0:10:11.93,0:10:15.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is collaboration with social media,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:16.20,0:10:23.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with Instagram and applications like it.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:24.51,0:10:30.63,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,For a designer to have a\Nsuccess with his collection,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:31.28,0:10:36.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the designer has\Nto come up with images, clothes,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:36.90,0:10:42.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that fit the most popular\NInstagram hashtags.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:42.92,0:10:49.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,They're already talking openly about\Nwhether we need traditional fashion weeks,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:49.53,0:10:52.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,whether we need seasonality.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:52.76,0:10:55.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Because Instagram\Ndoesn't have seasonality.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:56.71,0:10:59.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And, on what the critics\Nwrite about a fashion week,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:59.92,0:11:02.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,practically nothing depends.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:02.92,0:11:06.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Everything depends on your ability
Dialogue: 0,0:11:06.57,0:11:11.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to collaborate with bloggers,\Nwith Instagram.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:14.15,0:11:16.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And even the entire\Nbusiness model is changing.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:17.18,0:11:21.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If the traditional model\Ninvolved a markup,
Dialogue: 0,0:11:21.61,0:11:26.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where you added an amount\Nto the cost of the goods to make a profit,
Dialogue: 0,0:11:26.86,0:11:30.63,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now, the most important thing\Nis a constant turnover.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:31.62,0:11:37.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now such online stores as Amazon\Nare becoming the sales leaders,
Dialogue: 0,0:11:37.82,0:11:42.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and it's because they can sell at a loss.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:42.90,0:11:46.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The most important thing for them is\Nis the turnover of information.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:47.29,0:11:52.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And the traditional shops,\Nthe leaders of the 20th century,
Dialogue: 0,0:11:52.72,0:11:55.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are forced to close their doors
Dialogue: 0,0:11:55.26,0:11:57.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because they cannot stand the competition
Dialogue: 0,0:11:57.79,0:12:01.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for the purchasing power\Nof a new generation.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:01.94,0:12:04.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In the information world,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:04.31,0:12:09.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the most important thing\Nis the constant movement of information,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:09.55,0:12:12.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but not the quality of that information.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:12.55,0:12:16.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The faster the information circulates,\Nthe greater it becomes.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:17.31,0:12:21.77,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is just what we see\Nin fashion trends,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:21.77,0:12:24.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where quality is becoming marginalized.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:25.49,0:12:31.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And we cannot even say\Nthat quality corresponds to price.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:32.25,0:12:38.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In fact, the development and design\Nof new looks is already not so important.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:40.24,0:12:45.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You can imagine that just yesterday,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:45.73,0:12:48.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this would have been\Nthe greatest of horrors
Dialogue: 0,0:12:48.58,0:12:50.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for a professional designer?
Dialogue: 0,0:12:51.32,0:12:55.03,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Flip-flops with socks and shorts.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:55.51,0:13:01.03,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I just laughed at it.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:02.47,0:13:07.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I took this photo today
Dialogue: 0,0:13:07.00,0:13:12.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from one of today's\Nmost famous brands: "Vetements".
Dialogue: 0,0:13:12.85,0:13:15.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And this is what\Nthey're actually presenting,
Dialogue: 0,0:13:15.33,0:13:17.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I mean, that's the outfit
Dialogue: 0,0:13:17.27,0:13:20.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of the most fashionable\Nmen and women of fashion in the world.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:22.37,0:13:24.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Does it get any better than this ...
Dialogue: 0,0:13:26.23,0:13:30.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,(Applause)
Dialogue: 0,0:13:32.41,0:13:34.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Hoodies.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:34.74,0:13:37.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,(Laughter)
Dialogue: 0,0:13:39.50,0:13:44.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We see three almost identical hoodies,
Dialogue: 0,0:13:45.31,0:13:47.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,their colour and design are the same.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:49.96,0:13:54.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,"Off-White", "Supreme", I don't know -\NYou know them? Ever heard of them?
Dialogue: 0,0:13:54.04,0:13:56.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Very prominent contemporary brands.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:57.33,0:14:00.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Basically, the difference in them
Dialogue: 0,0:14:00.25,0:14:05.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is only in the brand logo\Nand the added pictures and patterns.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:07.02,0:14:11.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And the last hoodie in the picture -
Dialogue: 0,0:14:11.33,0:14:15.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I checked this morning\Nbefore coming here -
Dialogue: 0,0:14:15.09,0:14:18.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can't buy it in a conventional shop,
Dialogue: 0,0:14:18.48,0:14:20.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's only for collectors.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:21.03,0:14:24.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You can buy it for yourself on eBay
Dialogue: 0,0:14:24.72,0:14:28.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for up to $25,000.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:31.67,0:14:38.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Basically, with these three\Nvery fashionable hoodies,
Dialogue: 0,0:14:38.57,0:14:44.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we just see the information\Nabout their brand, and nothing else.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:45.54,0:14:52.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, brands are acquiring\Na new informational status,
Dialogue: 0,0:14:52.14,0:14:55.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where the product itself\Nis no longer important.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:55.44,0:15:01.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,What is important is the information\Nand product promotion on social media.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:02.70,0:15:08.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,"Supreme" can be stuck
Dialogue: 0,0:15:08.40,0:15:10.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,onto practically anything.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:10.97,0:15:16.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If before, when before,\Nwhen fashion houses were being created,
Dialogue: 0,0:15:16.49,0:15:18.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,brands were being created,
Dialogue: 0,0:15:18.38,0:15:23.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there was a client in mind, one client,\Nat which the brand was aimed,
Dialogue: 0,0:15:23.76,0:15:26.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,defined by the price tag.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:28.75,0:15:32.77,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That is, a product line\Noffered by one brand
Dialogue: 0,0:15:32.77,0:15:35.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,would all have about the same price.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:35.90,0:15:38.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In the case of Supreme,
Dialogue: 0,0:15:38.03,0:15:44.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the price can start\Nin the luxury segment -
Dialogue: 0,0:15:45.11,0:15:48.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a Ferrari with a Supreme sticker -
Dialogue: 0,0:15:48.38,0:15:51.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,while at the same time,\Nwe can see in the slide,
Dialogue: 0,0:15:51.08,0:15:55.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,they sell shovels with the same logo.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:56.50,0:16:03.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It can be glued onto any product,\Nand the price raised.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:06.33,0:16:09.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The second very interesting change
Dialogue: 0,0:16:09.35,0:16:14.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is that the development\Nof the design of this product
Dialogue: 0,0:16:14.16,0:16:18.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is nor provided by the Supreme team.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:18.37,0:16:20.100,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It is being done by factories
Dialogue: 0,0:16:23.26,0:16:27.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,who actually make the product,
Dialogue: 0,0:16:27.69,0:16:30.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and Supreme is just gluing its logos on.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:31.08,0:16:35.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Similarly, the hoodie by Louis Vuitton\Nwhich we've just seen
Dialogue: 0,0:16:35.53,0:16:38.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was designed by Louis Vuitton,
Dialogue: 0,0:16:38.40,0:16:42.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and Supreme has just glued on its logo.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:42.47,0:16:44.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And this is exactly how
Dialogue: 0,0:16:44.50,0:16:49.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,firms that started their businesses\Nin the 20th century
Dialogue: 0,0:16:49.85,0:16:51.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are surviving today:
Dialogue: 0,0:16:51.38,0:16:53.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,by collaborating
Dialogue: 0,0:16:53.54,0:16:59.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with such information brands as Supreme.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:01.86,0:17:05.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Today, I've told you
Dialogue: 0,0:17:05.50,0:17:11.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how we can see, through fashion,
Dialogue: 0,0:17:11.36,0:17:14.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how our society is changing,
Dialogue: 0,0:17:14.92,0:17:18.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and how the centre of power is changing.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:19.53,0:17:21.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We started from the monarchy,
Dialogue: 0,0:17:21.62,0:17:24.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where all power was\Nin the hands of one person,
Dialogue: 0,0:17:24.85,0:17:30.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then we moved on to capitalists,\Nwho brought us individuality to fashion.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:31.90,0:17:37.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Then, via print media,\Nwe've arrived at the world of information.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:38.82,0:17:41.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I wouldn't like to tell you
Dialogue: 0,0:17:41.45,0:17:44.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that Steve Jobs was a great fashion icon.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:45.25,0:17:49.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I don't honestly think\Nhe was very preoccupied with fashion;
Dialogue: 0,0:17:49.88,0:17:54.63,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,he just wore his jeans and sneakers
Dialogue: 0,0:17:54.63,0:17:57.63,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and went about minding his own business.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:57.63,0:18:01.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Even less that he thought about\Nhow we all should dress.
Dialogue: 0,0:18:01.62,0:18:08.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That's not the issue at all;\Nit's that the vector of power has shifted.
Dialogue: 0,0:18:08.54,0:18:11.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that's already reflected\Nin the way we dress.
Dialogue: 0,0:18:12.88,0:18:14.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Look around you.
Dialogue: 0,0:18:15.49,0:18:17.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Has anything changed?
Dialogue: 0,0:18:18.82,0:18:20.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,No, I don't mean in how we're dressed,
Dialogue: 0,0:18:20.66,0:18:24.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we're dressed just as we were\N18 minutes ago.
Dialogue: 0,0:18:25.02,0:18:28.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But, maybe, something's changed about you,
Dialogue: 0,0:18:28.14,0:18:30.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in how you see fashion?
Dialogue: 0,0:18:32.25,0:18:33.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Thank you.
Dialogue: 0,0:18:34.13,0:18:37.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,(Applause)