Mód05 - 01 - Válvula de Controle (Superior) - [F09]

Hello! How are you?

Let's start another Tanda Color
analysis flowchart study.

This flow chart now is about the top
valve, the control valve, or deareration valve,

or still, pressurizing and
sterilization valve. This is the valve

that we will think about now.
The top valve.

What are the procedures and the guide
that you should follow to quickly

understand if there's an electric issue,
or if the valve is damaged. Ok?

First, just to remind you how it works, and
how is its electrical diagramming.

We will have a 20V tension, that comes
from the converter, here, 20VAC...

It goes through a relay... that will be
driven by an electrical driver,

and this relay will be connected to a
phase, and the valve will be linked to the

20V one. And this valve has 24VCA.
And we can't forget this.

So, the electronic will be triggered by
a relay, which will be on the board.

We have already studied this relay, and
how they work.

And here, we have our 24V valve.
So, this is the circuit that we are studying.

Now, the first step is to turn on the
equipment, plugging it to 220V,

and turn on the valve. Then put the water
into the chamber. Then you will press start.

This valve will open automatically
at the moment that you trigger the

master switch. You don't necessarily have
to start a cycle. But it's better to do so.

Put water into the chamber, close the door,
everything good, and then press start.

When you press start, what do you have to
do? You have to measure if there is tension

at the valve or not. And the top valve wires
are this two here that you can see.

This 2 brown wires are from
the top valve.

And this 2 are from the valve below.

And this 2 green wires are the converter
supply, ok?

This is only to remind you about this matter
that we have already studied before.

Well, the question is: when you try to
measure the tension with the

multimeter over here... And reminding
you that you need to set it to AC...

Is there a 22V tension here? Or about 22V?
If the answer is yes, it means that the

board is doing its job. And all
the circuit here is working fine.

So, the valve has to trigger. If it
doesn't, then you will have to check the

valve coil. Just as we have already
studied, at the valve subject.

I even told you about the ESR that you
should measure.

This coil's ESR equals to 7,5Ω, in
case you want to check with your

multimeter, using the gauge set
to resistance.

Alright. Is there a tension supplying the
valve? Yes. Then why won't it trigger?

Check the valve. For this purpose we have
our classes about the valve, which

covers all kinds of measurements that
you could do.

Well, but let's suppose that we didn't
find 22V there.

The next step is to ask if the converter
is supplying the board with 22V.

There is a possibility that there isn't
a 22V output from the converter.

Maybe there could be something
wrong with the winding, for example.

So, you need to be certain that the 22V
tension is actually reaching the board.

This is the question now. Is it, or is it
not reaching?

Let's suppose that it isn't.

Just to let you know, we're here already, ok?
'Cause this part is the same

As this one.

Well, what happens then... Is the 20V
reaching? No, it isn't. This means you will

have to check the converter. Why wouldn't
the converter release the tension?

Why isn't there the 22V output
or the average of 20V to the green wires

in order to supply the coil?

This means that the converter is damaged.

Now, if the answer is yes, the converter
shows a tension of 22V, or about 20V?

Ok, then. As you can see here, this is the
supplying value, which is around 22V.

Alright. Everything looks good. We see
the tension here but it's not supplying

the valve. This way, we can change the
valve. 'Cause, in fact, it's damaged.

Sorry, I mean, not the valve. We are gonna
change the board! Once it's not supplying

the coil. In this case the issue is the
board.

Well, if there is 22V here at the connector,
the valve may be damaged.

If there isn't, it could be the converter.

When you test it, and it's not the converter,
then it's the board.

This means that there are 3 possibilities
here:

The coil; the converter; or the board.

And remember that we also got the indicator
LEDs. Those that I have already talked

about here. The little LEDs that will
warn you about the valve, or about the

relay that triggers the valve... We have a
class about it.

Then, if you look at the LED, and it's
on, there's a big chance that the electronics

are fine here. Then you measure here. Did
you find any tension?

Yes. Then the valve is damaged.
No. So, if the LED is on, and there is

no tension here, then check the converter,
or the board. Ok?

Very easy, right?

Reminding you that when I measured it
using my LCR meter, the valve equals to 15Ω.

But if you use your multimeter, that has
a different frequency, the valve's inductance

equals to 40mH. And the ESR, using the
digital multimeter, equals to 7,5Ω.

If you want to measure the resistance,
the ESR, you can do it directly, with the

equipment just turned off, and your multimeter
set to resistance gauge, and test it here,

you will find 7,5Ω that is the equivalent
resistance of this valve. Ok?

Really simple test, very quickly you will
be able to do this, and it will surely work,

and you will be able to know if the power
supply is damaged, or the coil, or the

board, or the converter. Any of those 3
could be responsible for not triggering

the top valve.

Ok? Follow this guide, think about it.

Until next time!