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(Nicole) So, you've ridden
a gondola in Venice,

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eaten gelato in Florence,

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you think you've seen Italy;

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you haven't.

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No one earns that badge
until they've been to Naples.

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Naples is not for the faint of heart,

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it's crowded,

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chaotic,

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and tatted up.

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But man, does this place have soul.

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It's full of characters

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and around every corner

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it's a diamond in the rough.

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That's what kept me coming back here

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for two decades.

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And just when I think
I've got a handle on her,

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she surprises me.

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So, this time, I've come with backup.

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Buongiorno.

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Buongiorno, Nicole.

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(Nicole) I'm hitting
the historic quarter with Francesca,

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my woman on the inside.

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She's a local expert with Context,

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guiding urban explorers
who want to go deeper.

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In this area is where
I first fell in love with Naples

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because it is full of life, right?

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- (Francesca) Scooters!
- (Nicole) Yes!

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(laughter)

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- (Nicole) it's never boring!
- (Francesca) That's true!

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♪ (music) ♪

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(Nicole) I'm here on a mission.

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In our last episode,
I spent a day in Amalfi

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where I discovered how lemons

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are literally saving
the town from disaster.

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Now, I'm in the big city,

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to learn how lemons have inspired
Italian cooking and culture.

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♪ (music) ♪

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After the requisite coffee --

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We start at the beginning.

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(Nicole) Naples was first settled
by the ancient Greeks,

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this was the site of the Agora,

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and later the Roman Forum.

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Francesca shows me
two Corinthians columns,

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lone survivors of a first century temple,

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incorporated into de facade
of a 17th century church.

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This is what exciting about Naples,

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it's a haphazard layer-cake of stories;

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stories you can
walk right up to and touch,

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if you know what you're looking at.

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To outsiders, Naples can seem inscrutable,

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it's hard to know where
history ends and myth begins,

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where faith fuses with superstition.

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Just look at these
handmade nativity scenes,

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a quintessentially Neapolitan fixation.

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You got modern-day figures
witnessing the virgin birth,

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and there, amid the terracota produce

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I spot them --

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(Nicole) And those lemons 
would have come up from the coast.

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♪ (music) ♪

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(Nicole) All these fake lemons
make me crave the real thing,

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so we head over to Cafeteria Ippolito
where they have --

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(Nicole) Yes!


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- (Nicole) Yes, medicinal, right?
- (Francesca) Medicinal.

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I think we should have
a little bit of medicine then, shall we?

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I think we should.

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♪ (music) ♪

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(Nicole) Thank you!

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This looks like... a sugar bomb!

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(laughter)

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Layers of sponge cake
filled with lemon cream,

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covered with Chantilly cream.

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♪ (music) ♪

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Okay, so delizie al limone,
not really my thing,

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a little bit too sugary
and a little bit too creamy,

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but it was fun, it's lemons,
that's what we're doing here, right?

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Luckily, it's nearly lunchtime,

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we're headed to a friend's apartment

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where Francesca has arranged
for me to learn from a local chef

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a perfect Neapolitan summer dish,

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but of course,
we can't arrive empty-handed.

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This is a salumeria from 1864,
let's check it out!

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♪ (music) ♪

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(Nicole) Thank you!

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We got our cheese,

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our bread,

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and lemons.

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And this being Naples,

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we bought them all
from specialty purveyors,

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who have been doing this forever.

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It's time for spaghetti al limone!

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Let's go!

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♪ (music) ♪

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We arrived at a friend's
fabulous apartment

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to cook with Antonio,

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who's whipped up dishes
in top kitchens in Italy and England.

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Ciao!

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(laughter)

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♪ (music) ♪

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(Nicole) This is spaghetti al limone!

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A dish that Neapolitans crave
when summer hits

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and lemons are at their peak.

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To make it you'll need:

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(Antonio) Double cream,

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parmesan,

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dry red chili,

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garlic,

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butter,

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lemon from Sorrento,

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parsley,

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and obviously the linguine.

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Let's go!

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(Nicole) Okay, half zest,
half juice of the lemon.

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♪ (music) ♪

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(Nicole) More?

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- (Antonio) Go, go, go --
- (Nicole) You can't have too much lemon!

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(Antonio) Yeah, specially 
if they are from the Amalfi coast.

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(Nicole) And everything
right into the cream?

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(Antonio) Yeah.

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And the reason why we do that

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it's because we don't want
to cook the zest,

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because it's already bitter,

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if you cook it, it'll be even more bitter.

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Perfect.

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Nice smell.

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(Nicole) Smell this, come on, so good!

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♪ (music) ♪

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(Nicole) Next, we chop garlic,
chili and parsley.

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A lot of people,
at least where I come from,

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think of Italian food as tomato sauce
and olive oil, not butter and cream.

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(Antonio) We already have
the lemons, which are bitter,

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so the olive oil, especially
the extra virgin olive oil is bitter,

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so you don't want to have too much --

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- (Nicole) Too much bitterness.
- (Antonio) Exactly.

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(Nicole) Antonio melts de butter
with the parsley, garlic and chili.

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(Antonio) This is basically
a very, very simple dish

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and everyone can do that,
but you need the right ingredients.

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(Nicole) Good quality ingredients.

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(Antonio) Absolutely.

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(Nicole) And patience,
that's the hardest ingredient to find.

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(Antonio) You always need patience.

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(Nicole) We add the lemon creme
until it's just warm through.

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(Antonio) Now, the king
I say in Italy - parmesan.

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Okay, the pasta is boiling...
that's, the water is boiling

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and we're going to open the pasta
in the Italian way --

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(Nicole) Whoaaaa!

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♪ (music) ♪ 
(laughter)

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(Nicole) Antonio says it should come out
slightly undercooked but,

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how does he know when that is?

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(Antonio) I'm going to just touch it,
then I know... I know it's the right time.

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(Nicole) The pasta whisperer --

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(laughter)

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(Antonio) It will actually 
tell me, "I'm ready" --

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(Nicole) I'm going to listen
and see if it tells me that --

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(laughter)

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(Nicole) It doesn't, 
but eight minutes later,

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it tells Antonio it's ready for the sauce.

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He tosses the pasta as only
a professional chef could.

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I'd have spaghetti down
my blouse doing that.

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A couple of pinches of salt
and he ladles some hot pasta water

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until the linguine is fully cooked.

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More parmesan and more lemon zest.

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(Antonio) That will give you
the smell, you know.

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- (Nicole) To the table?
- (Antonio) To the table.

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♪ (music) ♪

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We used linguine instead of spaghetti
which has more surface area

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for the sauce to cling to.

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There we go --

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(Nicole) After a long walk,
we're finally feeding you.

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(laughter)

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(Francesca) Buon appetito!

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(Antonio and Nicole) Buon appetito!

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♪ (music) ♪

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To Naples' new friends and limone!

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(laughter)

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♪ (music) ♪